Triton router problems

[redd11]

I have recently bought the 1400 watt Triton router and the template kit that comes with a through the table winder.
Also got the routertable insert plate from Carbatec, the one that comes with two removeble insert rings.

And am waiting on the Original Incra Jig system Package from WoodPeckers.
I have just built the table 900x600 laminated MDF 3/4inch thick

Now, with the router table insert plate,after routing the table to fit it,does it have to be screwed in,bolted in?? or does it just stay in the table with the weight of the router below preventing it from moving around????
And how do i attach the router to the table insert plate?Do i have to tap threads into it?.(no instructions came with the plate)

Also as the table is 900x600, where would i best place the router table insert?
Bearing in mind that i will be using the Incra jig and fence.
cheers
Colin

[Carry Pine]

It's a pity you didn't buy the insert plate from Woodpeckers (or even got it free seeing you bought the Incra Jig) as now you can get the holes for the Triton pre drilled. You need to attach the router to the plate by the same size bolts that hold the router's face plate on- but longer (to allow for the thickness of the insert). The plate just sits there with the weight of the router. There should not be any movement. I'm happy with the measurements that come with the pre made router table by Woodpeckers. If no one else responds I'll measure mine exactly for you. It feels tons safer than the Triton table.

[HoutBok]

I would wait until I have the Incra system on hand before doing the routing of the table top. Those things need a lot of room behind the bit.

[redd11]

Yes, i am waiting on the jig before i do anything further to the table.
And after looking at that carba tec plate yesterday,have seriously
thought of returning it to carbatec for a refund and getting one
from Woodpeckers,seeing as Carry Pine mention that they supply
ones pre drilled, it would make the whole thing so much easier.
Carry,could you tell me the measurements of your table and the postion of
the insert.
Thanks
Colin

[mat]

Colin

I would mount the plate in the centre of the long side of the table and to the edge of the short side leaving only enough room for the fence and adjustment.
Also consider putting in an aluminium T track from Carbatec (ALMG32). This allows the use of accessories such as mitre guage. I also use the track for a tenoning jig. Apart from tenoning I use the tenoning jig for a draw lock bit -used to hold the draw sides vertical whilst passing the router bit.

[mat]

I forgot to mention that you have to check for clearance under the table for the router and any other mechanicals. Depending on the size of the table supporting frame this can necessitate moving the mounting plate in from the edge.

[Termite]

Below is a picture of my 900 x 600 table. The centre of the plate is positioned in the centre of the short side and 300 in from the edge ie. 300 in from each edge.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/attachment.php?attachmentid=17988

[redd11]

Thanks for the pic, it clears it up for me.
And what about that Triton through the table winder,anyone
fitted one yet?

[Zoot]

Thanks for the pic, it clears it up for me.
And what about that Triton through the table winder,anyone
fitted one yet?

I have purchased the Triton 1400 and have just fitted it to my router table ... the through the table winder is just great. The "dial" around the shaft is marked off in 2mm increments which makes fine adjustment really easy. The best feature though, which was on the big Triton, is the through the table bit replacement ... saved a lot of sore knuckles and poking around in dark places!

Cheers,
Zoot Esq

[mat]

Colin

Termite has positioned his router plate in that position as a result of using the incra router fence system.

If using a simpler router fence I would suggest mounting the plate closer to one edge of the long sidehalf way along to maximise work table support for the workpiece.

[Termite]

Colin

Termite has positioned his router plate in that position as a result of using the incra router fence system.

If using a simpler router fence I would suggest mounting the plate closer to one edge of the long sidehalf way along to maximise work table support for the workpiece.
The last table I made was as you described and I found that 450mm to the cutter was too far. The layout I have is not totaly dictated by the Incra Jig, it is set up this way as I have found that 300mm lead in and tail out is quite adequate and 300mm in from the edge allows space for a mitre slide as well as giving sufficient lateral support to a wide piece.

I could have made the top any size I wanted, and that's just what I did based on previous experience.

[doug the slug]

The "dial" around the shaft is marked off in 2mm increments which makes fine adjustment really easy.

well ya must have a different definition of "fine adjustment" to the one i use

[Zoot]

well ya must have a different definition of "fine adjustment" to the one i use

It was actually .2mm, but the "point" got lost in the ether!!

Cheers,
Zoot

[doug the slug]

It was actually .2mm, but the "point" got lost in the ether!!

Cheers,
Zoot

Sounds a lot better. thats why they invented lead zero's, so the "point" doesnt get lost

Cheers

[redd11]

I am still not clear on how the router is actualy mounted to the router plate
, the only way i think it can be done is by,,
Drilling the holes straight through the router plate,
Counter sink the holes on top of the router plate
Then screw the longer bolts(screws) straight
from the top of the plate in to the router below.
Is that right?
I mean place the plate(with holes already drilled) into position on the table,
hold the router underneath, then screw the screws from the top.

[Carry Pine]

Yes, redd 11, I think you have got it right. The drilling and countersinking is ONLY through the phrenolic plate (or whatever the Carba tec plate is made of. because the plate is ???mm thick you need longer bolts (screws) which are readily available (1/4 in I think).
Please refer to the 'Woodpecker's' answer to my queerie(Triton in a Woodpecker).
Of course the moral to this story is that retailers (importers) of these things often give very little pre-advice on the fitting.

[Carry Pine]

here's the woodpeckers answer;Hi all,

Our TLR Phenolic Plates are available in 2 forms;
1/ Pre-drilled to suit Triton (the good folk in Taiwan who make the TRA-001 'borrowed' the mounting hole pattern from the Porter Cable 7518)

2/ Blank, for easy drilling to suit any other router.

Unlike other plates, these are made from 10mm Phenolic a thermosetting plastic as opposed to plates made from thermoplastics that are prone to sag under the weight of routers, particularly 'jumbo' routers like the Triton.

Generally the cupboard that supprts the table top has a enclosed box that connects to a dust extraction unit.

Regards

The Woodworker
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[redd11]

Thats right, the plate i got from carbatec has no instructions at all,
it comes with four little rare earth magnets and four tiny hex screws(grub screws),
Theres no real indication of where they are supposed to go,except for
a tiny drawing that is not at all explinatory. theres no threads for the
hex screws (grub screws?), so have no idea what size they must be tapped to.
So today it goes back to carbatec for a refund, and will get the one from
woodpeckers once my Incra Jig finaly arrives.

[Carry Pine]

...and don't forget to tell them you want it pre drilled for a Triton. You might also quote the model number because there is another Triton router now.