RYOBI - Spring removal & Above Table Router Lift

[dazzler]

Hi All

As discussed in a previous thread here is how to remove the large spring from the Ryobi ERT2100 Router and home made router lift.

NOTE: This procedure involves disassembly of the router including exposing the internal electrical componants. If this is of concern to you please read no further and if your really upset pls add comment in the "Dazzler is an idiot for pulling routers apart" in the nothing to do with woodwork section.

Picture 1 shows the Ryobi ERT2100V 1/2" router. They are a large, powerful router with variable speed. They also are not designed for easy removal of the large spring that allows the plunge action to work when used freehand. When used in a router table the spring becomes a PITA. Spring removal has also been a PITA.

RRP is normally around $150.

SPRING REMOVAL

STEP 1 Disconnect the power cord from the wall:rolleyes: and wrap electrical tape around the plug so that it cant possibly be plugged in (by a kid/aggrevied spouse)

Remove the phillips head screws that hold the top black cover (the one that the cord runs through).

Undo the two motor brush cover plugs on either side of the top of the router. These unscrew and then the brushes simply pull out.

Undo the screw that holds the yellow micro adjuster knob.

You will now have 6 black screws, 2 brushes with springs and 2 spring covers.

Step 2

Remove the black cover from the top and slide along cord and put to the side.

Use a flat screwdriver to prise the yellow knob off the shaft. Watch out where the yellow speed adjuster sits for later.

Step 3

Using a large phillips head screwdriver inset it through the baseplate and undo the four large screws that hold the motor cover to the router body.

Step 4

Remove the 3 screws that hold the handle with the on/off trigger, remove the cover off the trigger and slide the trigger out of its locating lugs. This will give you enough room to slide the rest of the trigger handle off the lug body part of the router. Dont be surpised if the blue motor housing lifts up during this process as the spring is pushing upwards. No problem.

ON TO NEXT STEP

[dazzler]

Step 5

Ease the case apart upwards and lay the blue case on the bench. You will notice the spring comes out as you do this and you may strike a little trouble with the trigger on/off area. Once you have slid the trigger off the lug on the base make sure that the little plastic wire channel is seated properly. it kind of slides back into place.

The spring can be placed to the side and the spring removal is done. (Reassembly is explained in the next procedure.)

ABOVE / BELOW TABLE ROUTER LIFT

Step 6

The router lift rod will replace the micro adjuster that comes standard on the Ryobi. Lay the router base on its back and look at the base of the post that the micro adjuster rides in. There is a welch plug in the bottom that needs to be removed. Use a small flat screwdriver and drive it in the side and pop it out. Do the same to the other one as you will need 1 (or 2 if you drill wrong later:o ) Put these to the side.

Remove the circlip on the top of the micro adjuster and unscrew the rod downwards. there is also a circlip on the bottom of the rod. Slide the router body downwards and continue to unscrew the rod. Eventually it should come out the bottom but if you have any trouble remove the bottom circlip and go the other way. Destroy them if you have to as the bottom one was difficult to get to but wont be needed again.

You will end up removing the rod and a round slotted nut.

There is a smaller spring in this section that I left in.

Step 7 - Reassembly

Slide the motor housing back onto the router base watching that the rubber ring is seated correctly at the top of the motor where the bearing is. This can be a little fiddly particularly around the trigger switch area but with patience all goes well. Make sure the motor can turn freely.

Screw the four screws that secure the motor to the body back up. Slide the trigger switch off its lugs to give extra movement and put the trigger switch handle back on its lug and then reassemble the trigger.

Put the black top cover on the motor watching that the variable speed adjuster is seated properly. Tighten the 5 cover screws and then replace the brushes. This can be a bit fiddly, make sure the lugs on the brass contacts are lined up and then screw the brush covers back on.

The router is back together.

Test that the router shaft spins okay. At this stage you can take it to an electrician and get them to test that its okay before turning on.

Step 8

To build the router lift you will need;

1. A 35cm length of 3/8" threaded rod.
2. Two 3/8" nyloc nuts.
3. Two 3/8" flat washers.
4. Normal 3/8" nut.
5. The nylon washer from the micro adjuster.
6. Two small screws.
7. The small welch plug.

Weld or braze the standard nut onto a flat washer and drill to small holes to fit the screws. Screw this to the plastic area where the yellow micro adjuster used to sit.

Drill a 3/8" hole through the middle of the welch plug from earlier and invert back into its hole. Tap in with a hammer so its seated home. This will act as a guide for the adjusting rod.

on to next step

[dazzler]

Step 9

Screw a nyloc nut onto one end of the threaded rod. I added a drop of thread lock to make sure it doesnt move but its probably not necessary.

Screw the rod through the nut that is screwed to the body of the router so that it comes out through the welch plug on the baseplate. It helps to compress and lock the router and watch the rod as it comes through and you may need to guide it with a screwdriver.

Once it is through and the bottom nut is hard up against the captive nut on the body, use pliers to hold the rod and then place the other flat washer and the nylon washer onto the rod and then screw the other nyloc nut on to the rod. I put another drop of thread lock on to be sure.

You can now release the router lock and move the router so that it is hard up against the nuts.

Drill a hole a little larger than the flat washer in the plastic base plate and secure the plate back on.

With this setup the adjuster protrudes 10mm.

By rotating the nut at the top or bottom of the threaded rod the captive nut makes the body move up and down.

ON TO NEXT STEP

[dazzler]

I have also made a second version which has an allan key welded to a nut that goes on the end of the threaded rod.

A cheap $5 flexi drive is used to redirect the drive to 90deg so that adjustment is done from underneath but from the side.

still a work in progress but it does work.

cheers

dazzler

[Wood Butcher]

Thanks for the run down Dazzler, I have been looking at the Ryobi router and this may come in handy later.

An interesting side note, with the Makita 3612 routers, to take the spring out you just have to undo the external height adjustment rod and lift the router off the base.

[petermac]

Excellent write up Dazzler.

I have one question. Would the spring come out if you just removed the welch plug or is it held in by something else? From the pictures it appears that the shafts are hollow and I was wondering why the sping wouldn't come out if the plug is removed.

Thanks
Peter

[dazzler]

Excellent write up Dazzler.

I have one question. Would the spring come out if you just removed the welch plug or is it held in by something else? From the pictures it appears that the shafts are hollow and I was wondering why the sping wouldn't come out if the plug is removed.

Thanks
Peter

Hi Peter,

you would think so huh. But Ryobi-san decided to place a roll pin that cant be removed without removing the baseplate and that cant be removed cause they loctited it in.:(

You could bend the roll pin out but it may crack the base. You could cut it with a dremel maybe.

cheers

dazzler

[triden]

:) You da man!! Thank you. I will give this a try and hopefully i wont have any bits left over, except the spring.:)

[petermac]

Hi Peter,

you would think so huh. But Ryobi-san decided to place a roll pin that cant be removed without removing the baseplate and that cant be removed cause they loctited it in.:(

You could bend the roll pin out but it may crack the base. You could cut it with a dremel maybe.

cheers

dazzler
You certainly can cut it with a dremel. :)

I removed the welch plug hiding the spring and cut through the pin with a cutoff wheel attached to the dremel. It was easy to cut through and the spring came out easily.

This is easier than disassembling the case if all you want to do is remove the spring and you dont want to install the above table lift. No electrical parts are exposed.

To enable the spring to be put back in if I want to use the router as a hand held, I drilled a small hole through the side of the base and into the tube that contained the roll pin and spring. I can now insert a small nail into the hole to replace the roll pin and hold the spring in place.

Peter

[dazzler]

WOODWORKERS 1
RYOBI ROUTER 0

:D

[Rajabarel]

Thanks for the info Dazzler. I bought an ERT-2100V April 2009, but it's a bit different. The micro adjuster is on the opposite side. I took the top off, 4 screws, and brushes like you said. But the plastic body splits in 2, so you just take 4 screws out of the body, 2 off each handle (keep separate, different lengths) and 2 silver screws at the top. One half will come off. Only remove 2 of the screws from the base of the body (that you access throug the baseplate)or the motor will fall out. Take off the circlip at the top of the spring, and it comes out. I was left with the spring and a black plastic bearer for it. Reassemble, check it rotates nicely, and the old micro adjuster still works, although the thread is very fine and it is a micro adjuster.

[Sapling]

I also used Dazzler's great advice on removing the spring on my dedicated table router. Cut the roll pin with a pair of side cutters. Still using the original adjuster to set the height. Will eventually improve that as well

[Buzzard]

Thanks for a great post. I have been using one of these routers (unconverted) in my shop-built table for several months now and can't fault it. Have given it heaps and it just keeps running, which is great considering I bought it for less than a hundred bucks... a bargain in my eyes.

Rick

[Bob38S]

Don't have a Ryobi but was interested.

Well set out and easy to follow - thanks for your sharing.

Regards,
Bob

[Beare Man]

I got to the forum to late, thanks for the well laid out and explained way to do it, but as I was not a member and didnt know my way round to sight I didnt get to read this till it was to late, already got it apart and out, but I may give the lifter a try, how much would it take to make the adjustments from the top of the body as mine is in a table 24/7 and I am using an aluminium router plate ?

[Rajabarel]

The other problem I have is with the Ryobi router table model Art-3, which is not as well built as the router hanging underneath. Whoever designed it clearly did not allow for changing a cutter, or getting to the micro-adjuster or the locking lever, because the switch box and the curved guard thing are in the way. I cut 2 holes in a side table and fixed the switch there, dispensed with the tool box, and it works fine,and I can get at the router. The plastic knobs to tighten the fence need to be very tight or the fence moves. I'll add some spring washers.

[orpheusrocker]

Muchos gracias mate!

I just bought the ERT2100VK and some rail & stile bits. Seemed like best bang-for-buck to suit limited income types like me. May not be a makita or hitachi, but gee it's a big jump from my trusty 30+ yo black & decker 3/4hp ! Hoping to table mount asap ... been hoarding melamine desktops etc for the day when I can hatch my evil plans ... er sorry, carried away with all this power ...

Anyway thanks gang. I'm getting great ideas & tips from this forum.