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Lignum
14th February 2006, 11:32 AM
A box for the new thread:) Its 15mm She-oak with Tas-oak burl veneered top, with dyed leather insert that has been layed up-side down so it has that crocodile skin appearance. The internal tray is 4mm thick. The burl veneer as usual has lots of cracks, holes and defects, so instead of filling them with the usual black filler, i cleaned them out and enhanced the shape of the defects and filled them with blue colored epoxy to match the leather. The sides were cut on a scms and trued up with the donkeys ears for a perfect miter, and after glue up Black But keys inserted. The stay is hand made, as i dont like brass ones on little boxes. Finish is shellac and wax:)

NewLou
14th February 2006, 12:53 PM
Gidday Lignum:)

As always very nice work...................the x-tra craftsmanship has really paid off top piece!!

REgards Lou

zenwood
14th February 2006, 01:05 PM
Stunning box, Lignum. Not real sure about the blue: it's very striking, but I think I like it. The crocodile skin texture looks great, but I can't help thinking a dark red or green colour would be nicer.

I love what you've done with the defects (though the colour is not very evident). The one on the left of the lid underside is a very appealing shape. Was that natural, or did you do some carving.

The wooden stay is a great idea too. How did you fix it, and make the 'elbow' etc?

Have a greenie.

Harry72
14th February 2006, 02:29 PM
Nice work Lig, the blue filler attracks your attension

Lignum
14th February 2006, 03:18 PM
Not real sure about the blue: it's very striking, but I think I like it. The crocodile skin texture looks great, but I can't help thinking a dark red or green colour would be nicer.

Cheers Zen:) I deliberatly stayed away from green or red as it seems to be the automatic choice for most and because of the epoxy inlays being blue, it seemed to be a good "contemporary" look. The camera flash has given it some white highlights that arnt that nice, and in the flesh so to speak the blue is more a dark sky blue.


I love what you've done with the defects (though the colour is not very evident). The one on the left of the lid underside is a very appealing shape. Was that natural, or did you do some carving.


The defect on the left is about 80% natural but enhanced and tidied up with the carving chisels. The top portion of it has been widend just to make it appear top heavy so the lighter ones at the bottom appear to be dropping down. I often enhance defects instead of trying to hide them or by bogging up with horrible black filler. Imho, black bog alone is a lack of imagination or flair, but it must also be in-tune with the style of the piece you are making






The wooden stay is a great idea too. How did you fix it, and make the 'elbow' etc?

Have a greenie.

Two pieces about 75mm long x 10mm x 4mm carefully drilled and a small screw and nut (with small brass washer between) holding one end together firmly, and the end of the thread bured over to lock it. The lid end is a small screw directly into the lid side, and the box end has a small piece 10 x 10 x 4mm glued on as a spacer and just drilled and screwed into the side. Easy and very effective:)

DPB
14th February 2006, 07:13 PM
Lignum, I appreciate the creative originality of the piece. Thanks for showing it to us.:)

Auld Bassoon
14th February 2006, 07:16 PM
A box for the new thread:) Its 15mm She-oak with Tas-oak burl veneered top, with dyed leather insert that has been layed up-side down so it has that crocodile skin appearance. The internal tray is 4mm thick. The burl veneer as usual has lots of cracks, holes and defects, so instead of filling them with the usual black filler, i cleaned them out and enhanced the shape of the defects and filled them with blue colored epoxy to match the leather. The sides were cut on a scms and trued up with the donkeys ears for a perfect miter, and after glue up Black But keys inserted. The stay is hand made, as i dont like brass ones on little boxes. Finish is shellac and wax:)

Very, very nice! I especially like the way that you have dealt with the defects in the burlhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon14.gif

With the stay, is it constructed from a similar timber, with rotary joints?

Cheers!

JDarvall
15th February 2006, 04:04 AM
A box for the new thread:) Its 15mm She-oak with Tas-oak burl veneered top, with dyed leather insert that has been layed up-side down so it has that crocodile skin appearance. The internal tray is 4mm thick. The burl veneer as usual has lots of cracks, holes and defects, so instead of filling them with the usual black filler, i cleaned them out and enhanced the shape of the defects and filled them with blue colored epoxy to match the leather. The sides were cut on a scms and trued up with the donkeys ears for a perfect miter, and after glue up Black But keys inserted. The stay is hand made, as i dont like brass ones on little boxes. Finish is shellac and wax:)

Whats that?! KEYED inserts..... why, can't you do dovetails ? :D ..

no. kidding of course. Your work makes me envious and just a little resentful. I wish I had more time for woodwork, you see.

I don't have a good procedure for keyed inserts anyway. Dovetailings all I've got, which means mitred dovetails in the corners.

Also, much impressed with you vineering skills. Do you cut it yourself ?

looks good, like to see photo's of your workshop. :)

Lignum
15th February 2006, 10:56 AM
Whats that?! KEYED inserts..... why, can't you do dovetails ? :D ..

Apricot:D Interesting, but i only like dovetails on small boxes if they are super fine, and as that isnt appropriate most of the time, so i think a good miter is so much nicer and cleaner than thick/machine cut dovetails even from a good jig like grifkins.


looks good, like to see photo's of your workshop. :)

I dont have photos off hand. but my modest workshop is just that. Its a very simple work space. Im not interested in buying tools just for the sake of it like i used to, but make sure that every procedure that needs to be undertaken has at least the basic machines to complete each task and good power/hand tools that are well tuned with good sharp blades. The heart is a simple Jet Super Saw, 8" Jet Jointer, 15" thicknesser and a nine year old Tiawanese 14" bandsaw with a 2hp motor that i love. I only own two hand planes, an old Stanly No3 1/2 and No5 and two Stanly spoke shaves, five basic chisels, one card scraper, four making guages/knives and half doz squares, a dozuki, good verniers and use only two diamond stones. Thats as basic as youl get, but all are clean and kept very sharp and get used every day on everything i make. Keeping my workshop simple these days keeps my focus more on the furniture im making, than having the nice workshop full of collected tools/machines that in the past was a distraction:)