help with goblet

[ss_11000]

hi peoples

wats the best way to hold a potential goblet on the lathe.:confused:

also wat should be the minimum depth:confused:

[China]

Sounds like your just startin out, the very best advise I can give you is to look up your local woodworking group, there will be more advise about everything for to take in all at once, More importantly you will be able to see the advise put into practice

[ss_11000]

Sounds like your just startin out, the very best advise I can give you is to look up your local woodworking group, there will be more advise about everything for to take in all at once, More importantly you will be able to see the advise put into practice

thanx for the advice.

i agree:) it would be best to see it done 1st. at school last year we got showed first and i don't rekon i could've done half the stuff with out seeing it done first.

i'll try to get in touch with my local club

[Hickory]

A good way would be with a Chuck. A talon Chuck or perhaps a 3 or 4 jaw chuck. I use a 4 jaw independent chuck as it is the only one I can find that will fit on my Cheap spendle head.

Best procedure would be to turn a round blank using spindles and cut a predetermined tenon. Change to a chuck and clamp in the tenon. Re smooth the piece and turn in the bowl, Then shape the outside. complete the stem and base, sand, smooth, & finish. Then part off the base from the chuck tenon.


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/hickoryknee/sChuckturnshape.jpg

This lidded box was turned using a 4 jsw chuck in much the same way you would do a goblet. The difference would be the lack of lid and a longer and thinner stem.


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/hickoryknee/HollyPrayerBox.jpg


This piece (Prayer box) is turned of American Holly with the finial being Bloodwood. The finish is WB Poly to preserve the white, followed by several coats of Wipe-on Polyurethane. The piece was turned green to 1/2" thick and soaked in alcohol and allowed to rest for twoo weeks wrapped in brown paper and weighed daily till it stabalized. Then turned to the finish size.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/hickoryknee/HollyBoxLid.jpg

The bottom is 1/8"-3/16" thick and the lid is 1/8" thick. American Holly is an excellant turning wood and is mostly an ornimental shrub. It has certain religious tales that follow where some identify it to the wood of Christ and the prickly leaves represent the crown of thorns and the red berries represent the drops of blood that fell as he made the journey to calvary's hill. As the story goes the Holly tree sprouted from those drops of blood. That is why I choose Bloodwood as the finial.

Hope you enjoyed my Holly piece and also hope you have success with your Goblet.

[hughie]

Hickory, nice job on the prayer box. hughie

[ss_11000]

nice box

[Wayne Blanch]

Hickory,
A beautiful piece of work:cool:

[Hickory]

Thanks Guys for the nice comments. It was a fun project, and the picture can't show the texture of the Holly, almost perfect piece of turning wood with a great deal of detail retension.


Spirlo, I just noticed you are not as (mature) as the old dusty grumps I see in these types of forums. Good! We need new blood as the world is soon to be Geek generated Computer Dweebs. I hope you can prosper in WWing and learn a good deal. Personally, I am an old retired WWing teacher from the old school of hands-on training and skill development through technical knowledge. After 30 years of pickin' brown buggers I dusted off my drawers and hit the bricks, they closed my shop behind me and now kids can only learn from their grandpas.

What I am saying is that whenever you have any questions or things in this area that you want help, feel free to ask, I may not know all the answers but I will try my best to help you out. Best thing I can offer is for you to try as often as possible, Make plans and stick to the plans and the projects will follow.

I am a hard case when it comes to making plans, Learn first to sketch and draw what you want the project to look like and then take measurements and work from there.

Too often I see fellows who say real turners don't need no stinkin' plans and to them I say When you get to be a REAL turner, it will be after you learn to make and follow plans. Don't be an arrogant fool who "Lets the Wood speak for itself" There are times when turning, outstanding figuring in wood shows itself and you realize that to continue on would remove a special feature in the project, so you modify the plan to suit the wood, but that is where the artistic value comes in. These are acceptable changes but you start with a plan. I have been turning sense I was 13 or 14 and I still to this day, make some sort of drawing or plan before every project. My son and grandson have both learned to turn through my direction, Making the plan was the hardest thing they each had to learn but it pays in the end.


The other bit of thought I want to pass on (Not knowing what you already can do it is hard to know where to start. ) Practice, practice, practice. with my students I always had them begin by Spindle turning stock to round Cylinders To a given diameter, straight and true. when they could do that, then I had them layout beads, and another with coves (using the cylinders they turned) Measure and mark a series of beads and turn each to perfection until you can do it in an automatic fashion, Use each of the appropriate tools till you learn to handle each proficiently, the same with Coves, and tapers. All Spindle turning is a combination or Beads, Coves & Tapers, Combine them and you can get either simple structures or elaborate designs, but they all comprise of one or more beads, coves, & tapers.

Practice making these things and you are well on the way to an excellant turner. I also want to add that to make nice things doesn't require that you have the High tech top dollar pieces of equipment. The piece pictured was turned on a cheap lathe I purchased on E-Bay for $26, it was junk but I salvaged the head and tool rest assembly. I built a bowl & chuck lathe from the pieces. My spindle lathe is from the 40s, belt driven with not a single ball bearing in sight (needed for the war effort) For the years that I taught I never considered doing anything at home, I had my shop to make things and keep the dirt & dust there. When I walked awy from it, I realized what I was missing and have sense tried to amass some tools but good old Used lathes are hard to find. (Retired teacher are not rolling in dough)

I'm sorry if my dribble is way behind your already established progress and if it is, then you will understand where I speak.

Again, anything you need to know, or anything I can help you with, is my pleasure please call on me.

[hughie]

hey Hickory,

Its the old story of the 5 P's

Proper Planning Prevents Poor Perfomance
When you plan you know where your going, other wise any direction will do...:D
hughie

[Hickory]

Might make that:The Seven Ps

Proper Planning & Practice Plenty Prevents Poor Perfomance
When you plan & practice, you know where your going and how to get there, other wise any direction will do.

A little variation of your well said Proverb.

Careless WWers don't plan to fail but often fail to plan.

[ss_11000]

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[Groggy]

Note: I am not a turner and wouldn't have a clue where to start. That said...

Today in a store I was listening to a guy complaining that the forstner bit he bought wouldn't cut end grain (cheap Chinese bit). After a little more discussion it became apparent that he was a turner and wanted to use the 35mm bit to gouge out the centre of some goblets to save him some time and effort. The problem was the bit did not want to cut the end grain and sat on top, burning the wood. The sides would cut but the clearing cutters failed to remove material.

It seemed a reasonable approach although I thought the bit would struggle on the end grain. What is the correct method to hog out the waste from the inside and still leave a smooth bottom to the goblet?

[RETIRED]

A sharp gouge. Gently rounded not flat.

A tungsten tipped forstner is used to remove a lot of waste in a short time and set the depth but I still think the gouge is quicker.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I use a "left-handed bullnose" scraper for hogging out. I used to use a gouge but found the scraper chewed it out just as fast and was quicker to resharpen.

Also avoids catching the wings when working too fast. :rolleyes:

I'll only use a forstner when after specific sized holes, such as in the base of a pepper-mill, but I usually hog the rest of the body out with a scraper too. Different courses for different horses, I guess... I'll probably never be a "pro" but c'est la vie. [shrug]

[Hickory]

By the time you set up your bits and do the cussin' and fussin' I can have the center cored and to depth using a simple scraper, (I don't have a lefthanded one) Sucker just wants to dig in there and make a nice starting hole. Then work your way out to clear the rest of the bowl. Only problem I have is in Hollow turnings the scrapper wants to chatter a bunch as you get further from the tool rest. That is the only time I use a drill bit and not a Forestner Bit, they take a lot of force to eat into endgrain. I use a Twist bit to make the starter hole and work out from the center to keep chatter down. (Keeping chatter down will reduce the tearout)

I have always thought that those fellows who use bits to core out pieces are just too lazy to do the job right. (I hope I didn't offend anyone here :o ) Last night I cored out and trued a nice (soon to be nice) Ginger Jar for LOML (AKA SHMBO) It only took a few minutes to rough turn this green American Holly log into shape. Got her all drunked up in Alcohol and will remove today and wrap in brown paper to dry for a couple of weeks. Will post pictures when done. I also have drying a Green piece of Osage Orange (Hedgeapple) that I am hollow turning into a Pineapple shaped vase, I used a drill bit to open the core on that piece because it is 8" deep and only 1" wide at the opening, and the scraper Chattered like crazy so I switched to a bit.

[Groggy]

Thanks for the comments. The tungsten tip sounds like a better option than the Chinese steel version. We did get it to cut end grain much more effectively by filing it sharp and then putting a few offset 'V' grooves (or teeth) in the clearing cutters - a bit like a corrugated plane blade - it allowed the chips to break and clear more easily.

As for gouges etc, I guess they are the better way to go. The guy didn't seem like an expert but did seem to do a fair amount of turning.

I'd really like to get into turning but I am afraid that once I get involved I won't have much time for anything else ww'ing-wise. Maybe a little lathe just for turning chisel handles and knobs is what I need.