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ptc
1st March 2006, 09:53 AM
At last I have been given ok to do a bit (Doc)
So will change Blade on BS to Henry Bros 1/2" x 2 tpi.
tune saw
and then Square up the Lump.
after that change it back to 3/16th x 10 tpi.
trouble is I have to take saw table off to set up the lower roller bearings.
no way can i get at them without doing that.
any way round it ?

Babytoolman
2nd March 2006, 08:25 AM
Hi Pete,
Good to see you are on the improve mate. my saw i can get to them without removing the table.
I started a six draw last weekend and lost my only 3/16 blade so i just ordered 2 new blades from the brothers henry and will get at it. I was able to cut 2 draws out but i still can not cut without getting a difference in the draw size from back to front. The back is always some 2mm wider than the front and i have to sand them down. Do you ever have this problem? What do you do to solve that?

Thanks Pete,

Roger

ptc
2nd March 2006, 09:34 AM
Roger.
the only thing i can think of is make sure block is square
and that the blade is square to table. ( I had the same problem with one of them)
my squareing up No 10 will have to be done again, iv'e got two faces square
to each other, but not all way round (if you get what i mean )
at least the figure in is good.
Pete.

Sculptured Box
2nd March 2006, 11:51 AM
Hi Pete,
Good to see you are on the improve mate. my saw i can get to them without removing the table.
I started a six draw last weekend and lost my only 3/16 blade so i just ordered 2 new blades from the brothers henry and will get at it. I was able to cut 2 draws out but i still can not cut without getting a difference in the draw size from back to front. The back is always some 2mm wider than the front and i have to sand them down. Do you ever have this problem? What do you do to solve that?

Thanks Pete,

Roger
Roger,

There are a number of factors which contribute to mis-shapened drawers. (1) the table and blade and not aligned properly, unless there is some special reason they should always be 90 degrees to each other; (2) the base of the drawer is not cut at 90 degrees to the drawer blank, it is a good idea to place the drawer blank along side the blade and rotate it to see whether it is aligned to the blade on all sides (3) try adjusting the tension and rate of feed of the blade, sometimes you can see an "out of alignment" blade, that is the top section is slightly ahead of where it is cutting nearest to the bandsaw table.

Have a close look at the cabinet before you commence to cut the drawers, if the drawers are out of alignment then the cabinet will also be out of shape!

Hope this helps?

Tony Ward
www.tonyward.org

Sculptured Box
2nd March 2006, 11:56 AM
p.t.c.

I know Mark (from HB's) will scream at my suggestion, but I only use my 3/16th 10tpi blade. Try it, what have you got to lose?

I will only use the 1/2 inch to cut large boards.

Tony Ward
www.tonyward.org

ptc
2nd March 2006, 05:47 PM
Tony.
fitted 3/16 x 10tpi. new one. old one a bit blunt.
and squared the block up ok,
The 1/2" x 2tpi was b!!!! vicious. all ripples, worst than the chainsaw.
but while it was on the saw i had ago
at facing a burl.Thanks for the tip.
The 3/16th 10 tpi cuts 6" depth easily (sassafrass)
peter.

Babytoolman
3rd March 2006, 12:52 PM
Tony,
Thanks for the advice i will look closer at the saw tonight. I order two 3/16 10tpi from Bros henry and received them under 24 hours. Now people that is service.

Roger

ptc
3rd March 2006, 06:17 PM
Roger.
cut the back off, and had a blue. " blade wandered." my fault not paying attention, to make sure that it was tight on fence.
cut the draws out, the block has started to develope cracks.
put some super glue down them Might fix it.
tomorrow will tell.
will post pics of progress.
still only allowed "short time in shed."
Peter.

ptc
14th March 2006, 10:19 AM
I'm Back.
Leg and back are on the mend,
only allowed short times in shed.
pics of stuffups rectified.
only handles to cut now.

Babytoolman
14th March 2006, 02:30 PM
Hi Pete,
It looks great mate. I love the timber.

Roger