DPB
11th March 2006, 01:25 PM
In another post in the Box Making Forum, I indicated that I had purchased 90 degree brass hinges from Veneer Inlay Australia. http://tinyurl.com/pd56n
The advantage of this kind of hinge is that it supposedly doesn't require a lid stay. Although, since using these on this box, I am a little concerned that when one opens the lid it places too much stress on the hinges and may cause them to break out from the timber. Because of this concern, I epoxied the hinges as well as screwing them into the timber side walls of the box which are only 15mm thick.
I learned after cutting the hinge mortises, that the hinge has to sit with the barrel portion hanging over the edge of the box, or it won't open. If you look closely, you will see where I had to patch up the mortises that were cut before I realsied my mistake. (Good lesson, but had I experimented with some scrap pieces, I would have avoided screwing up the box.)
This picture shows the hinge in its open position.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/8361/dbbox57ym.jpg
I used these hinges in this Myrtle box made with a Walnut burl veneer inset in the lid and Walnut accent pieces. This box is my own design, with sides slopping 5 Degrees toward the top, and the lid sides sloped 5 degrees the other way. The lid frame has a raised panel effect by cutting a bevel in the frame. It makes the lid appear thin where the lid meets the box sides, but allows sufficent thickness to accept the veneered panel and Beech retainer strip. The compound angles were a challenge, but fun to work out.
http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/3820/dbbox41vk.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/5940/dbbox17dz.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/8121/dbbox25ej.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9831/dbbox32ks.jpg
The advantage of this kind of hinge is that it supposedly doesn't require a lid stay. Although, since using these on this box, I am a little concerned that when one opens the lid it places too much stress on the hinges and may cause them to break out from the timber. Because of this concern, I epoxied the hinges as well as screwing them into the timber side walls of the box which are only 15mm thick.
I learned after cutting the hinge mortises, that the hinge has to sit with the barrel portion hanging over the edge of the box, or it won't open. If you look closely, you will see where I had to patch up the mortises that were cut before I realsied my mistake. (Good lesson, but had I experimented with some scrap pieces, I would have avoided screwing up the box.)
This picture shows the hinge in its open position.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/8361/dbbox57ym.jpg
I used these hinges in this Myrtle box made with a Walnut burl veneer inset in the lid and Walnut accent pieces. This box is my own design, with sides slopping 5 Degrees toward the top, and the lid sides sloped 5 degrees the other way. The lid frame has a raised panel effect by cutting a bevel in the frame. It makes the lid appear thin where the lid meets the box sides, but allows sufficent thickness to accept the veneered panel and Beech retainer strip. The compound angles were a challenge, but fun to work out.
http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/3820/dbbox41vk.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/5940/dbbox17dz.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/8121/dbbox25ej.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9831/dbbox32ks.jpg