Double fence for Makita

[Scally]

I am looking at routing a number of sliding dovetails.

Previously I have used the Makita 3612 hand held and clamped the panels in a vice with a wide board to support the router base.
(Hand held keeps better contact with the board than using a table, I find.)

I would like to have a double fence.

I have seen wooden fences added to the rails that extend through the router base.
My Makita rails are too short for that.

Are there commercial double fences available or do I need to make one from scratch?

[doug the slug]

get a woodrat - do a sliding dovetail on the 'Rat and you would never go back to any other wayhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon10.gif

[underused]

I dont know if this is of any interest/help to You. Its a link to the Accurate Guide review. You can make sliding dovetails and dado with it, no big jigsand not to much set up.
Link: http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/accurateguidervu.html

Cheers. Gary.

[Schtoo]

When I made 2 edge guides for my Makita, I used a piece of 8mm stainless rod.

I would be surprised if your bigger Mak was too much different. That is if you decide to make some edge guides and need longer beams.

[Scally]

Thanks fellas.

Gary, I had a look at the Accurate guide and it looks good for cutting the slots but not sure about the tail. I will have a better look at the site later.

Schtoo, I saw your jig in another thread. I think I will have to make something similar. The 3612 edge guide has 12mm rods that I am sure I can source locally, and they are 116mm apart.

I would probably use larger timber for the guide, maybe 3x2s, so I get more contact/stability against the side of the verticle board.

In my router handbook there is a double edge guide that looks like 2 Makita guides - one on each end of the parrallel rods. That would be just what I would like. I think I saw a Trend guide in a catalogue somewhere that had the double edge guide. What chance would there be for the rods and spacing to match the Makita?

Doug, I wish I knew how to get an avitar like yours. As much as I like what I have read about the Woodrat, I can't justify the purchase yet.

I have a good idea about what to build and I will keep searching the catalogues for a ready made one.

Thanks again.

[doug the slug]

.......Doug, I wish I knew how to get an avitar like yours. As much as I like what I have read about the Woodrat, I can't justify the purchase yet......

Avatar is easy to get, just right click on her then click on "save picture as"http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon10.gif

Pleased you have looked at the woodrat, im learning more things it can do every dayhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon14.gif

[Sprog]

You could make something like this

[Scally]

I like it.
It looks like a pretty good sled for flattening boards.
The adjustment options must be very handy.

If I made the feet longer so they extended under the router to the bit, it would do exactly what I want.

It is good to see a picture.

Thanks.

[damienhazo]

Hi,

I rout running dovetails all the time on the bench and don't have a problem. The main thing is to remove as much stock from the slot as possible with a sawblade. I then run the piece over the dovetail to remove the leading edges and whatever material is left.

For the tongue, I do all the work with the router, making sure the first passes just tickle the wood to remove the leading edge cleanly and prevent breakout.

I built the dog's bed using this method:

21785

Making a dovetail groove without first removing stock, puts a lot of stress on the router, bit and workpiece - but, with a little bit of prep work, you can eliminate the need for special jigs in this case.


Damien

[Scally]

I rout running dovetails all the time on the bench and don't have a problem. The main thing is to remove as much stock from the slot as possible with a sawblade.
Damien[/QUOTE]

Thanks Damien.

I use a straight bit to remove the bulk of the waste.
I have just moved house and don't have 3 phase power for my table saw so I am a bit limited.

I used the router table to make the tongues and handheld router and a fence to cut the grooves.

I probably should have use the router table for both.