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Gil Jones
25th March 2006, 07:58 AM
114.3mm hi X 38.1mm wide.
Turned on the Eccentric Chuck Adapter from green Crape Myrtle (CA glued to wood screw again), and finished with Tru Oil, paste wax, and buff.

rsser
29th March 2006, 11:45 AM
Nice one Gil.

Think I'd have gone for a wider base though ... to improve the proportions.

Gil Jones
29th March 2006, 01:58 PM
Thanks Ern,
I agree with your statement as far as proportion goes. This piece was a test to see if it would stand up, without help, with a small base (it does, but not by much). Anyway, it is just my second test subject with the new eccentric tool.

ss_11000
29th March 2006, 04:25 PM
that looks so cool, i wish i had the equiptment to try that, but there is only so many birthdays in a year ( nd i cant get a job yet)

Gil Jones
30th March 2006, 02:42 AM
Stirlo,
If you had a wide enough piece of wood, and could draw a line across the same place on each end (in the same plane), and marked off dots for "center", and several points outward each way from center (the same place and positions on both ends), you could use the tailstock and headstock through all cuts except hollowing the cup, (then you would need a spigot turned at the drive end for a scroll chuck). Just shift the drive and live center positions to the same pre-marked points along the two lines at each end of the wood. You could even simulate the indexable wood screw positions by 90° movements by using the four drive center indentions (and if you were using a Stebb drive center, you would have a lot more indexable points pressed into the wood to use). You could even shift a place point on only one end to get a second angular dimension offset in the piece. There are a bunch of possibilities involved here, as you can tell.
I hope that helps as I am not sure it is clear (it is clear to me ‘cause it is in my mind), so if you want me to restate any of it differently, just say so.
Luck :)

Gil Jones
30th March 2006, 03:24 AM
Stirlo,
Try this: carefully cut a chunk of wood to 50mm X 50mm X 150mm (you choose the size). At each end, draw a line between both opposing 90° corners, and make each line a different color, but make sure that the line colors are in the same positions (relative to each other) at each end.
You now have identical lines at each end, and you have defined "center" at each end. Now draw offset dots 10mm apart, and outward from center, on each line.
Start your test project between centers, and turn a goblet cup at the tailstock end (at least the outside form of it), and try not to obliterate the lines and dots. Sand and finish the cup exterior. Now shift the piece to the next dot along the same line at each end, and 'carefully' turn, sand and finish a short part to whatever shape you like. If you repeat this action thru the length of your piece of wood, and vary the dots you use as turning points, you may create an amazing form without the need of a special tool. If you ever decide to buy the eccentric chuck adapter, you will be well versed in its use by then.
:)

Lance Stunning
30th March 2006, 05:52 AM
This sounds like Oval turning and can be done without any special tools. To make a new handle for one of your hammers, start by centering in the outer holes first, turn down to the marked lines and recenter in the middle. Turn this down until all sides flow into each other, sand and finish.

ss_11000
30th March 2006, 07:31 AM
thanx gil for those instructions, it sounds like it would work. just out of interest-how much are these adapters?

Gil Jones
30th March 2006, 08:06 AM
Stirlo, the tool is $87 (US) + shipping from Wisconsin USA.
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ecc
[[I changed the price (in this post) from $75 to $87, due to a price increase that I just noticed at Ken's web site]]

Lance, my outlined method will not render an oval, just a circle in another plane. The method you described will turn an oval or elliptical form.