My workbench -WIP

[Shedhand]

G'day guys and gals
I've actually started a project. A new workbench for the new shed. :):)
I decided to recycle the 150 x 50 Oregon that I used for the boxing on my new shed slab.
First step was to hit it with a wire brush to get rid of the dried concrete.
Next step, check out Waldo's plans and measure the lengths I had. I'm not building it to Waldo's measurements but will use the concept of functionality his bench is designed to meet.
Decided to make it 3.81 metres by 850mm deep by 905mm high. The length = the outside distance between 3 end portals in the new shed.
The first pic is the bench top frame with the stretcher bearers and legs ready to be bolted on.
To be continued..

[martink]

Hmm love the progress shots, cannot wait to see the results! A good heavy bench, perfect for so many other projects! Keep up the good work, and let us see the finished product!

martin.

[Shedhand]

The legs are made of 105 x 105mm dressed Canadian Oregon. The frame is 150 x 50mm Tasmanian Oregon. I cut all the tenons by hand with a tenon saw and chisel. I cleaned up the cuts with the WC 2000 mounted saw by feeding the tenons across the 60T TCT blade. I made the the tenons half the thickness of the frame, ie 25mm. This was to maintain the rigidity of the legs to minimise racking. Because the Oregon is green (ish) - only been cut for about 12 months - i've decided to use long bolts to hold it all together. The reason is so that I can tighten all the joints up as and if it shrinks over the next 12 months or more. (Not sure if thats how Oregon travels).
To accomodate the long bolts and nuts I bored 35mm deep holes in each of the stretchers so I can get a spanner in when it comes time to tighten up. See the pic.
To be continued.

[Lignum]

Well done Shed:) Bout time you do something constructive apart from raving on about planes:D looking foward to seing more progress shots

[Shedhand]

Each of the stretchers have two 35mm deep holes in each end bored with a standard cupboard hinge drilling tool thingy. Works a treat in softwoods.
I then drilled a hole right through the bench top front timber until the bit exited in the 35mm hole in the stretchers. In the previous post you can see that I chiseled a square finish to the 35mm hole to accomodate a 10 gauge steel washer. I used 150x10mm ZP Hex Head bolts and nuts with a 10 gauge 25mmx10mm ZP washer under both the head and nut. I repeated this process on each of the ends of the bench. The strength was such that I could lift one corner of the frame with very minimal flexing and no noticable movement in the bolted joints.

The next step will be to attach the legs and other stretchers.
The legs will be attached with 150mmx12mm bolts for added strength.
The bench won't be fixed to the shed portals because it will only amplify the racket I make when I eventually start making things. I don't won't to annoy any more neighbours than I have to. I'll bolt the bench to the slab with 100x12mm concrete screws.

I plan to incorporate - into the bench at one end - the larger of my two float glasses for sharpening. Its 1/2 in x 600mm x 200mm. It will have a masonite lid.
The bench top itself will be made of two layers of 16mm MDF overlain with tempered masonite. I'll edge the whole top with replaceable Dressed Tassie oak.
No damn tool well. They fill with crap and I only ever get splinters under my damn fingernails feeling around for lost bits and pieces.:(
It'll have 2 big cupboards under one half a 3 big drawers under the other half.:)
It'll have its own power board and working lights.:):cool:

Cost to date:
150 x 50 Oregon RS - 14m @ 10.20 p/m = 142.80 (Recycled from my slab)
105 x 105 Oregon DAR - 6m @ 13.75 p/m = 82.50
Assorted ZP Hex Hd Bolts, nuts, washers = 97.50 (incl 20% loyalty Discount):)
Total = $322.80

Any other ideas would be welcome.;)
More later.
Cheers (I'm excited but I hope this doesn't bore all you old hands.);)

[BobL]

Looking real good. I'd love to have the space for a bench that long, . . . next lifetime maybe?

RE: Bolts. I was surprised how much my new bench needed it's bolts tightened after just a month or so after being constructed. I think that's maybe because it's a mix of old and new timber.

Anyway, looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[woodbe]

The bench top itself will be made of two layers of 16mm MDF overlain with tempered masonite. I'll edge the whole top with replaceable Dressed Tassie oak.

Hi Shedhand,

Bench looks good! I'm interested in why you are going for 2 x 16mm mdf + masonite instead of 1 x 32mm mdf + masonite?

I'm planning to replace my benchtop with a 2400 x 800 of the same materials, but had noticed the availabilty of the 32mm mdf and wondered if there is a reason it doesn't get used.

Also, how do you decide bench height? Mine is currently a bit over 800 and I'm thinking it should be about 1050 to avoid stooping over it when working.

Last question (promise) :) How much overhang is safe for a mdf top? Mine looks like it will be in the 150-200mm range at the front.

woodbe.

[Lignum]

Looking real good. I'd love to have the space for a bench that long, .

Bob, at the moment i have eight 3mt hexagonal benches about to be finished. Boy are they big:eek: Oh that = 48 vices to be fitted:(

[BobL]

Bob, at the moment i have eight 3mt hexagonal benches about to be finished. Boy are they big:eek: Oh that = 48 vices to be fitted:(

Bastard!!

I think I have already posted that my computer desk 2.3 + 3.3 +1.8 m long is 5.6 m longer than my workbench. Stupid really because I spend much more time at the workbench than I do at the computer desk. I mainly use my PC (laptop with wireless connection) at the dining room table or in front of tv.

[Shedhand]

Hi Shedhand,

Bench looks good! I'm interested in why you are going for 2 x 16mm mdf + masonite instead of 1 x 32mm mdf + masonite?I could use 32mm MDF but when the top gets to scarred for use its cheaper to replace just one sheet of 16mm than 1 of 32mm. If I'm working on something too awkward for any of my dogs or clamps to hold I just wack a bit of scrap MDF fixed with a type 7 screw straight into the top. After a while it gets hard to find a place to do this. Like I said a the start for me its function over form.


I'm planning to replace my benchtop with a 2400 x 800 of the same materials, but had noticed the availabilty of the 32mm mdf and wondered if there is a reason it doesn't get used.

Also, how do you decide bench height? Mine is currently a bit over 800 and I'm thinking it should be about 1050 to avoid stooping over it when working. In my old (soon to be demolished) shed I inherited a bench which must have been designed by and for a short-ars e. It was about 790mm high and my back used to kill me after about 10 minutes bent over it. So, I built another one out of some old guideposts and MDF. It was 1090mm high. It was too high to be able to use my weight properly when planing. The new bench height is based on the height of the Router table I made which is 905mm high. Its very comfortable and I've spent quite a few hours learning how to cut dovetail joints without backpain. I reckon if you go to 1050 you'll have problems getting the right balance needed to push your tools around particularly sanding and planing (unless you're about 185cms tall or there-abouts)


Last question (promise) :) How much overhang is safe for a mdf top? Mine looks like it will be in the 150-200mm range at the front.

woodbe.I welcome questions mate. It gives me the chance to expand and share my knowledge - such that it is. It depends what sort of work you do I guess. Waldo's bench specifies a 50mm overhang. Some have no overhang. I have one of those (very excellent and very handy) Z-vises which you can attach anywhere there is an overhang. From experience I think I'll go with a 50mm overhang to accomodate the Z-Vise. Then again it will also depend on what sort of vise you fit to the bench and whether you want to do as I'll be doing and put dog holes your bench's front legs to hold long or unwieldy work. If you go for 32mm MDF for your top i'd say you could safely have an overhang without flex of around 150 - 200mm. Just a guess though. There's sure to be an expert here who could tell you for sure.
Hope this helps. :)

[Shedhand]

Bob, at the moment i have eight 3mt hexagonal benches about to be finished. Boy are they big:eek: Oh that = 48 vices to be fitted:(48 vices :eek::eek:
Is that a contract job for a trade school or something? If so how did you swing that. Sort of thing I'd be interested in.:)

[BobL]

.
.
Also, how do you decide bench height? Mine is currently a bit over 800 and I'm thinking it should be about 1050 to avoid stooping over it when working.


I like work over the top of what I'm doing so I can easily put downwards pressure on my work so I made my new bench the same height as my old one - 800. However, recently I find myself turning more often to the old vice on my ancient "metal working bench" which is 1050 high to do some close up work, thus I am seriously considering raising the woodworking bench to around 900.



Last question (promise) :) How much overhang is safe for a mdf top? Mine looks like it will be in the 150-200mm range at the front.


Although overhangs allow you to using smaller clamps, Personally I prefer an apron that you can dog hole rather than an overhang. I guess you can always strengthen the overhang by gluing a extra thickness or 2 of MDF to the overhang.

[woodbe]

Thanks for the responses. Yes, I'm 185cm. The bench at my ww classes is 1000 high, and I find it dramatically more comfortable for all the manual stuff at the bench than the short one at home.

So, Shedhand, if you are going to clamp to your bench by running a screw or two into the mdf, does that mean you will be running it through the tempered masonite as well? I didn't think masonite was quite so forgiving for that, and it seems to defeat the disposable top layer approach, as you might land up having to replace the masonite and the mdf when things get shabby?

woodbe.

[Waldo]

G'day Shedland,

Strueth you're fast!

You must have started working on the bench as soon as I flicked my plans over to you. Can't blame you though as it's an exciting project to build a bench, the bugger is having to juggle saw horses and work off the floor.

Bolts by my way of thinking are the easiest means of securing the whole thing up. One thing you can be guaranteed - it won't go anywhere fast.

Keep the shots coming, it's always great to see progress shots of stuff.

[Shedhand]

Thanks for the responses. Yes, I'm 185cm. The bench at my ww classes is 1000 high, and I find it dramatically more comfortable for all the manual stuff at the bench than the short one at home.

So, Shedhand, if you are going to clamp to your bench by running a screw or two into the mdf, does that mean you will be running it through the tempered masonite as well? I didn't think masonite was quite so forgiving for that, and it seems to defeat the disposable top layer approach, as you might land up having to replace the masonite and the mdf when things get shabby?

woodbe.Good point. Maybe I dump the Masonite. When I've used the bench a bit I may modify it. Maybe even put a 65mm Tas Oak top on it. Just have to see how it goes.
Cheers;)

[Shedhand]

G'day Shedland,

Strueth you're fast!

You must have started working on the bench as soon as I flicked my plans over to you. Can't blame you though as it's an exciting project to build a bench, the bugger is having to juggle saw horses and work off the floor.

Bolts by my way of thinking are the easiest means of securing the whole thing up. One thing you can be guaranteed - it won't go anywhere fast.

Keep the shots coming, it's always great to see progress shots of stuff.No flies on me cobber. Desperate to get in and start making things. Haven't even got the roller doors operating yet.:o
Cheers and ta for the plans. ;)

[MurrayD99]

Wow, you are ripping into it! You put me to shame: while you have been building the shed and getting the bench organised I have been wasting hours re-furbing an old but strong rimu workbench that was in the barn when we bought our place. It is destined to be the outfeed table at the back of my 10" saw - height was just under the mitre slots and I have found it works well. My real bench has a 60mm (demolition) Candadian Oregon top. I guess they were 8 x 3s before I dressed them. The planks are fixed down onto the frame with decent sized galvanised bolts and 1" Oregon plugs cut on the lathe to cover the bolt heads. 20 years on - I still feel good about it. But it's about 6' 6" long - whereas what you are building.... highly impressive. Agree re the tool well btw. regards

[Shedhand]

Finished bolting the stretchers in place. Used the no 6 to joint the top edges and trim the dags of the legs. On the floor at last ready for shelf and cupboards/draws.
To be continued...

[Shedhand]

A purely random shot om my most of my plane collection. Still got 3 (an old Record No3, a Stanley No3 and a Stanley 8C) in transit and minus the one I've given to Bodgy :D .

[Waldo]

G'day Shedland,

You've a faster mover mate, no doubt.

Not running stretchers on the legs?

[Shedhand]

G'day Shedland,

You've a faster mover mate, no doubt.

Not running stretchers on the legs?

Yep. Wanted to make sure it sat nice and square on the slab. Once its plumbed true I'll mark out and fit the stretchers which will support the shelves for the cupboard and the drawer cabinet frame.
Thanks for the interest.:)
Cheers

[Woody1]

Shedhand
That is going to be one large and strong workbench.
Looking real good
Looking forward to more WIP pictures.
Love your collection of Handplanes,I have a 4,7 and a 10 and I reach for them a bit more often now but I got to tune them a bit more yet.
Have a great day
Woody1

[Shedhand]

G'day all
I've decided to make my bench with 3 different sections (all the same thickness though). The first section is the 'fine work' area and is 1100 x 900 x 35mm edge laminated 90 x 35 Tas Oak. The middle section will be the 'hard labour' section and is 2 sheets of 1800 x 900 x 36mm (2 x 18mm) MDF. The 3rd section will be for rehabbing and sharpening tools. It will have inlaid in the 1100 x 900 x 36mm (2 x 18mm) moisture resistant MDF a piece of float glass - 800 x 200 x 12mm, a diamond stone and eventually a 1500# & 6000# waterstone of some brand one of you guys will recommend ;) .
Cheers

[Waldo]

G'day Shedland,

More progress, looking great. Some shove pics of Crown lager in every shot, you stick Hawks in every one, or just about.

On the waterstones, I've got absolutely no idea, I've just got a good old faithful oilstone with 2 grits - 1per side, and white and black arkhansas stones. The oilstone and white arkhansas were my Dad's, the black I picked up for $1 from a garagy sale. Still have to get a Veritas MkII honing guide yet.

[Shedhand]

G'day Shedland,

More progress, looking great. Some shove pics of Crown lager in every shot, you stick Hawks in every one, or just about.

On the waterstones, I've got absolutely no idea, I've just got a good old faithful oilstone with 2 grits - 1per side, and white and black arkhansas stones. The oilstone and white arkhansas were my Dad's, the black I picked up for $1 from a garagy sale. Still have to get a Veritas MkII honing guide yet.I have two old oilstones which belonged to my late grandad. Beyond flattening though. :(

[Waldo]

G'day,

The oilstone had a very, very slight indent but thought it had to be done. Sharpened some chisels at Wood Borer's the other week on waterstones, definitely faster, but I'll use what I've got.

[9Fingers]

Looks good Shedie, but I'm concerned its not going to big enough.:D

[Shedhand]

Looks good Shedie, but I'm concerned its not going to big enough.:DThanks Thumbless.
Saves me having to modify it later when I find its to short. ;):D
Cheers

[Simomatra]

Looks great shedhand. Nice big benck

Cheers Sam:)

[Farm boy]

great bench sheddy i sent you a green one for giving me inspiration and motivation.
nice plane collection too

[Shedhand]

G'day troops.
I've been juggling different jobs around the place in preparation for the much anticipated extensions. :) Been working on the bench 'tween more important stuff.
The main frame is now complete. All bolted together except for the centre stretcher which was my first real Mortise & Tenon joint. Made it by drilling out the mortice with a 25mm speedbor bit and cleaning up both the mortise and tenon with Bodgy's 2" Marples (bloody magic tool). Perfect snug fit. Glued her up and then whacked two 150mm x 10mm ZP Coach Screws into it front and back through the bottom bearer and legs. It ain't goin' nowhere soon. ;)
More...

[Shedhand]

....Continued

I decided to use some of the Tas Oak T&G flooring from the old (now demolished) shed for the bench shelving. I made a simple jig for the orange beast so I could cut them all at precisely the same length. I then laid them out on the top of the frame and set to with the belt sander and ROS. I haven't taken them back to fresh timber because I like the patina of over 50 years of foot traffic. It'll come up nice with a bit of oil or varnish. Anyway the boards are splinter free and relatively flat. I'll screw them to the bearers with Type 17's. I've filled all the old nail holes with wood filler.
Next step will be the drawers and the doors for the cupboards. I'm thinking I might use some more of the old floorboards for them.

[black1]

Good point. Maybe I dump the Masonite. When I've used the bench a bit I may modify it. Maybe even put a 65mm Tas Oak top on it. Just have to see how it goes.
Cheers;)

horrified at the waste of tas oak. :eek:
you would be better off using pine or the oregon as ya bench top that way ya dont care if ya drill holes or screws or ya chisels hit the bench top or cut with a saw. when it gets too scarred either replace or turn it over.:cool:
hold the top on with 75mm bugle head screw countersunk about five mm ( the ones for treated pine with the allen key head for ease of changing the top):cool:

by the way we burn jarrah over here:cool:

[Shedhand]

horrified at the waste of tas oak. :eek:
you would be better off using pine or the oregon as ya bench top that way ya dont care if ya drill holes or screws or ya chisels hit the bench top or cut with a saw. when it gets too scarred either replace or turn it over.:cool:
hold the top on with 75mm bugle head screw countersunk about five mm ( the ones for treated pine with the allen key head for ease of changing the top):cool:Don't panic cobber. Its framing grade Tas Oak. Cheap as chips here. I drive the timber joint nuts. I inspect every length to get the best pieces. Stuff 'em, its my money. Oregon costs a motza here and in any case too much give in crapiata and oregon.
Thanks for the comments and suggestions though mate. bugle heads a good idea.
Cheers

[Lignum]

Bench is comming along great Shedie;) Are you sure its going to be strong enough:confused: and id go with the Tas-Oak top as its not a waste at all. It will be a great work horse that one. Well done so far:)

[Shedhand]

Bench is comming along great Shedie;) Are you sure its going to be strong enough:confused: and id go with the Tas-Oak top as its not a waste at all. It will be a great work horse that one. Well done so far:)Thanks mate. I was going to bolt it to the floor but with the bottom bearers in place and the T&G Oak fixed in position I can barely lift the bugger. Gonna have to invite the neighbours over for a bbq and get some help moving it into position. I reckon once the top, the drawers and the doors, sides and back (a l Tas Oak)are done it'll be close to 500kg. ;) Add a twin screw vise, bench vise to that. :D

[black1]

Don't panic cobber. Its framing grade Tas Oak. Cheap as chips here. I drive the timber joint nuts. I inspect every length to get the best pieces. Stuff 'em, its my money. Oregon costs a motza here and in any case too much give in crapiata and oregon.
Thanks for the comments and suggestions though mate. bugle heads a good idea.
Cheers

as long as ya drive them nuts about getting it i guess that ok.
i gather that by crapiata ya mean "pinus twistus" i get mine free but there only 1800mm long 6"x1.5" ( yeah i mix metric and old stuff). they come from the crates the yanks send mercury outboards on.

[Shedhand]

as long as ya drive them nuts about getting it i guess that ok.
i gather that by crapiata ya mean "pinus twistus" i get mine free but there only 1800mm long 6"x1.5" ( yeah i mix metric and old stuff). they come from the crates the yanks send mercury outboards on.You can send me one of those Yankee crates if you like (preferably with a 90hp v4 Merc inside.) :D

[black1]

You can send me one of those Yankee crates if you like (preferably with a 90hp v4 Merc inside.) :D

but then ya would have to build a boat for it:cool:

[Graha]

Hi Shedhand,

...

Also, how do you decide bench height? Mine is currently a bit over 800 and I'm thinking it should be about 1050 to avoid stooping over it when working.

...
woodbe.

Over the last few days I have been reading a book regarding workshop benchs and it recommended having the height of the legs of a workbench the same distance as your wrist to the ground when standing straight (for me, being 180cm, is about 900). The benchtop then adds a little to this height - this is what I am going to use as my height (my WC2000 is about 900 high which seems to be a little short for my height).

My two cents has been added :)

Graha.