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Nuggett
8th April 2006, 03:16 PM
Hi all

Wondering the best methods to turn tenons on dowels for chairs?
I start with a length of dowel try to centre it but always off for some reason? Then as I turn I get a lot of whip? I thought this would be easy:confused: The dowel is 16 mm tenons are 12 mm not very long about 350- 400 mm.
Or should I use a router?

Thanks in advance

Nuggett:)

soundman
8th April 2006, 11:38 PM
a few thaughts.

1. it is difficult to get something re-chucked on exactly the same center once you pull it out of the lathe even worse isaccurately centering something.
better to make all the round thing in the lathe.

2. there are tennon rounders available that work like a big pencil sharpener, these can also be shop made.

3. if you have a lathe why are you buying dowel anyway?

cheers

CanFly
9th April 2006, 05:36 AM
I use the table saw for that job!
Using the mitre gauge to hold the dowel against, and the height of the blade set equivalent to the the amount to be removed, turn the dowel until the amount required is shaved off. Set the fence or a block against the fence to the length of the tenon you need.
It works like a charm for me and the tenon will be on-center.

Nuggett
10th April 2006, 10:50 AM
Many thanks .
Sound Man & Can Fly.
In answer to Sound mans questions- The reason I buy dowels is I don't own a Centre Steady so the length and size of the dowels makes them bounce /whip to much to get a good finish.
Hi Can Fly. Beautiful Place you live in which part of BC? I've been to Jasper Lake Louise Banff Golden and Vancouver. My relatives live in Medicine Hat.
Anyhow sorry to crap on. I used the table saw method - but the finish was pretty ordinary so I finished them on the lathe.
What's your method on the saw? Do you use a dado? I only have a single blade so I may need more practice:eek:
Once again Thanks
Nuggett

scooter
10th April 2006, 11:33 AM
Nuggett, I have done the same as Canfly with good results on 16mm hardwood dowel.

I had tried it on the router table but found it hard to cut smoothly without grabbing or kickback.

I just used a single blade, no dado, just set up a fence of mdf to rotate against & fed it in from the side. Set stop to limit length of tenon, & rotated stock against blade rotation.


Cheers..............Sean

CanFly
10th April 2006, 02:47 PM
Hi Nugget,

Scooter beat me to the reply. I use the same method as he and I would recommend staying away from a dado head, the single blade takes a bit more time but it's he best route to take. The trick is to take your time and the results will be excellent. Don't try to take off too much at once, if the dowel is thick and the tenon diameter small it's best to take it in small bites.

I live on Vancouver Island; beatiful country. I flew my plane to Medicine Hat several times through the Rockies and camped on the airport. Medicine Hat is a lovley town with excellent restaurants.

Let us know if you are successful with the tenons on the dowels.

Hickory
11th April 2006, 02:58 AM
Lee Valley (Canadian Guru of Tooldom) sells a device that fit in a drill motor and turns tenons on sticks and limbs as well as dowels. http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspxc=1&p=44248&cat=2,33286
Or to make dowels & such from square stock:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=52401&cat=1,180,42288

You might find a local distributer that has such. Not cheap (I guess the reason you are using dowels is the economy of the material) but efectual. Personally I would turn the whole spindle but you need a good sound lathe, sharp tools, a steadyrest, Collet chuck if your lathe will accept it. (Which I have only the good sharp tool part of the complex so I guess I'd go for dowels as well. also look to Van Dyke's Restorer and purchase. Ready mades http://www.vandykes.com/search.php?PHPSESSID=dad4237c0cb14e65a4582bcf60af368f&q=chair+spindles&submit.x=17&submit.y=12