WIP- Router table

[boban]

Background

Well I've bitten the bullet and broken my own promise to myself and started a new project before I finished the shed but I know the bloke, he'll get over it.

I'm using the plans I posted in my earlier thread. Unlike in my plans I am just going to use butt joints, nails and screws, then cover these with solid pieces of pine. Hopefully it will look like frame and flat panel construction when completed.

I've got about 2 sheets of leftover 17mm plywood flooring which I will use for the carcass. I also have some 9mm plywood for the back.

I'll be using metal runners for the drawers and probably melamine for the drawers. That way I wont have to finish them. Nothing fancy there either, just butt joints, nails and screws.

Anyway, time to start.:eek:

[boban]

Stage 1 is the cutting of the sheet stock for the carcass and applying the edging.

Photo 1- Cut the sides and internal dividers at 580 x 700. You will need 4 of these

Photo 2 - Cut the base at 580 x 1000. The base of the cabinet sits beneath the sides and internal dividers so that there is no shear force working against the nails and screws on the sides.

Photo 3 - The back of the cabinet is just there to provide bracing and will be nailed and screwed on. The piece I have is about 9mm and will cover the base,sides and internal dividers. It is cut at 717 x 1000.

Photo 4 - I hate throwing out timber, I knew it would come in handy for something. The bracing at the top of the cabinet

Photo 5 -At the top of the cabinet we will need to brace it as well as have something to attach the top. Since this photo was taken I changed the front pieces to one solid piece which will be 19 x 70 x 966. The balance of the pieces will be 2 @ 19 x 70 x 286 and 1@ 19 x 70 x 366

[boban]

Photo 1 - leftover fingerjointed pine strips which I will use to edge the board. Cut them oversized so that you can router the excess off with the flush trim bit. I allowed 2mm on either side, which is probably too much.

Photo 2 - All clamped up, in this photo at least. You can nail (and putty) the edges on as they wont be seen most of the time given that the drawer fronts sit over the sides and internal dividers. Then again, who cares, its a tool, not furniture.

Photo 3 - One to give the darksiders a woody:D. I used the block plane to plane the edges flush.

This whole process (stage 1) shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

[tinsmith2]

Good morning Boban, I was drawing the plans up and this morning I found the photos. Good luck, Who really needs plans in a shed.:p

[Cliff Rogers]

officer Obie has been here. :D

"Obie came in with the twenty seven eight-by-ten colour glossy pictures with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one"

You trying to go one up on Midge?

Just stirr'n, keep up the good work.

[Groggy]

Yes officer Obie, I put that piece of paper under that rubbish! Gotta luv Alice's Restaurant.

[Scally]

Boban
I thought your shed had room for a router table.
That SCM should make short work of the cutout.

You could make it look smart with some of that Jarrah veneered mdf.

I look forward to seeing it finished.

[ozwinner]

officer Obie has been here. :D


Just stirr'n, keep up the good work.

I though Boban might have had a hand from Bob Dilon..

Keep em coming.

Al http://www.ubeaut.biz/claps.gif

[boban]

You're a merciless lot aren't you :D

Scally, you have a good memory. Sadly though I dont have enough of the Jarrah veneer boards left over to skin the cabinet. And you're right the panel saw makes light work of the panels although in this instance its all pretty much left overs/off cuts so I didn't have to handle any large panels.

Anyway Saturday is not a good day for me with the boys playing football (round) and me being the coach, so I only got a couple of hours in. I managed to finish the top drawers and prepare the cabinet for the slides.

I have changed the number of drawers from 4 per side to 3 per side because I already had metal drawer sides which were both 116 and 150mm high. I decided to use these instead of building the entire drawers from melamine.

Photo 1 - This is the sloping shelf which I failed to cut in Stage 1. Cut it oversize so that it can be trimmed later when you determine the correct angle.

Photo 2 - Cut out the notches in the internal dividers to allow for the top brace to go all the way across the cabinet. I nothed out 19mm x 70mm out of the internal dividers.

Photo 3 - I always set out the slides before nailing up the cabinets. Much easier this way. If I didn't have to finish the inside of the cabinet, I would attach the slides at this stage.

Photo 4 - Pre-drill the holes in the sides.

Photo 5 - Take note that with the white slides, they are marked CL, CR, DL and DR which are abbreviations for Cabinet Right and Left, Drawer Right and Left.

[boban]

Photo 1 - I marked the top of the sides and internal dividers to save myself becoming confused when I assemble the cabinet.

Photo 2 - Once I have drilled all the holes I sand the boards and get rid of the set out lines.

Photo 3 - I cut out the material for the top 4 drawers. With these metal drawer sides you only need to cut a bottom and back. The (drawer front) face is attached to the metal sides.

Photo 4 - Top drawers assembled and ready to go.

That was it for Saturday as we had to go out again.

[boban]

Photo 1 - This is the replacement top brace which will be a lot easier to attach and will provide a uniform look across the top of the carcass.

Photo 2 - The bottom drawers are assembled and the runners are attached. I haven't gone into great detail here as building a basic butt jointed drawer shouldn't be difficult for even a novice.

Photo 3 - This is the other reason I went from 4 drawers to 3. I made sure that my routers will be able to fit in easily.

Photo 4 - All the drawers finished and stacked.

Time to assemble the carcass.

[boban]

Photo 1 - To aid in the spacing and to save yourself valuable time in marking out lines, cut two spacers (283mm in this case) with your table saw. Attach the sides flush with the bottom board then use the spacers you cut earlier.

Photo 2 - The sides and dividers all attached.

Photo 3 - Top bracing is attached. You can see why the notch was made. Your spacer will come in handy again.

Photo 4 - You can see that the rear top bracing is oriented differently in the centre to the right and left braces to allow to easy attachment with the bradder and screws. You could easily use a biscuit joiner if you were inclined to do so. I obviously wasn't.

[boban]

You recall that the sloping shelf was cut oversize. Here it how I trimmed it down to a characterless :p finish.

Photo 1 - Mark the height were the sloping shelf will meet on the internal dividers and dry fit the shelf so that the top lip is almost flush with the front face. Mark rear overhang with a sharp pencil and remove the shelf.

Photo 2 - Place the shelf infront of the saw blade and line up the blade with your pencil mark. It's pretty easy if you have reasonably good eyesight.

Photo 3 - Creep up on the cut. Dont cut on the line. This way you will see if the angle is right. Adjust if necessary and cut as many times as you need to get it right.

Photo 4 - Look at that, a characterless (perfect) fit.

Photo 5 - I find it easy enough to plane off the solid edging at the front of the sloping shelf with my block plane. You could always use the saw for this if you wanted.

[boban]

Photo 1 - Before you attach the back, mark out the internals.

Photo 2 - The next step is to mark out the outlet for the 100mm dust outlet. I'm just using a readly available plastic adaptor I picked up at Hare and Forbes a while ago.

Photo 3 - Cut out the hole with a jigsaw and sand the back before you attach it to the carcass.

Photos 4 and 5 - The carcass is now assembled and ready for a poly-urethane finish on the inside.

That's it for another day.

[boban]

I had to work today, so progress was minimal.

First thing I did was to give the internals a coat of poly-urenthane.

I decided to cover the plywood edges, nail and screw holes with a pine trim. I went to the shed and found some old pine gluts that would be perfect for the task.

Photo 1 - The gluts just after they were ripped. There is so much of this crap available on job sites, its hard to pay anything for any pine lengths less than 2.4 m.

Photo 2 - The trimming pieces cut to size.

Photo 3 - I have allowed for a 20mm overhang at the front of the carcass so that the drawer fronts will finish flush with the trim.

Photo 4 - I've glued and clamped on the trim. You could easily nail this on but this will be seen.

Photo 5 - What it looks like without the clamps.

[boban]

Another day where very little was achieved.

Photo 1- I screwed in the drawer runners and put in the drawers only to discover that the centre cabinet was too high at 300mm. That wasn't a surprise as I had originally designed them to be 270mm. Why 300mm? Well I already had them made up for a kitchen cupboard, which I didn't end up using. So I cut it down to fit here. Looks like I'll need to cut off a little more (15mm actually).

Photo 2 - In the spirit of keeping costs to a minimum, the drawer fronts are being made from an old shelf. Once again, total cost ($0).

[tinsmith2]

I am enjoying the cash management in this project!!:D

[Zed]

I like seeing a job where "project tight@rse" is in full swing :D

lotsa storage there Boban. should work well.

cheers

[tinsmith2]

You may or may not like it, but I have played your plans. Don't get any ideas ok.

Its a simple 3d model(very) putting it all together, frame is just made of lap & butt joints, base can be replaced with castor wheels, The router and its installation is all up to you (plus waste) its not hard. You can make your own bits, look at this site for an idea; I used it and made my own from links in this site http://www.freeww.com/routertables.html.

I think there are still mistakes in the cutting sheet, SDB (500 or 466, its the joint you are asking for). same for CDB etc. It depends on what you want.Anyway the basic frame is there.

It's in a dxf file and pdf
For anyone who needs it, layer C1 was setup so it would not print. its a construction line.

Tinsmith

[boban]

I certainly like what you've done mate. Your plans are an improvement on my earlier effort.

Once this thread is finished, one hopes that even a novice could tackle the project with some confidence and have a good idea how much material they will need.

Project tight@rse, love it Zed. Spot on too.

[boban]

Well I've had the opportunity to do bits and pieces after work and managed to stain and finish the cabinet and drawer fronts. I must admit this is the part I hate the most.

Photo 1 - Shows the drawer fronts being fitted by clamping the fronts to drawers. I start at the bottom and use two 3mm pieces of aluminium flat bar to space out the fronts from the sides and between the drawers. Then drill and screw from behind.

Photo 2 - When you cant screw from behind with a clamp on, I use the hot glue method.

Photo 3 - I used euro hinges for the centre frame and panel door.

Photo 4 - The cabinet finished and ready for the electrical wiring.

[boban]

Photo 1 - I used a simple architrave style switch

Photo 2 - I used a plug base within the router enclosure.

Now all that's left is the top and fence.

[Harry72]

Sure you wana keep that in your workshop... you wana hope your SWMBO doesnt see it!

[boban]

Somehow I doubt she will let me use it in the house Harry:D

[Zed]

whast the mirror on the door for ? shaving ? Im sure hte code of practice would consider that a "chap like" thing to install.

Velika cura!

[scooter]

Zed, it's to check that the achers ( ;) ) are still intact when a router bit parts company... :D

[boban]

Where's the mirror? All I see is a perspex insert. Mala cura.

[Auld Bassoon]

I get the sneaky feeling that "Mala cura" is not quite the same as "mea culpa" :D

[boban]

All quite tame though. Don't want to have gain a reputation for having my work moderated.:D

[Auld Bassoon]

All quite tame though. Don't want to have gain a reputation for having my work moderated.:D

:D Where's the spirit man? :D

[boban]

I have sourced a top that is made of solid pine strips laminated together then covered in two 3mm layers of MDF.

I then cut up and dressed some more 'reject quality' tassie oak to trim the top edges.

Dont forget, you need to justify your clamp collection at some stage. I can't think of a better way.

[Al B]

Dont forget, you need to justify your clamp collection at some stage. I can't think of a better way.

boban, I reckon you could have squeezed in a few more clamps:D

Excellent job with the router table BTW.

[boban]

During the week I spent some time in the shed after work to get the top prepared for the mitre track and aluminium plate. I purchased 6mm aluminium plate that was cut to 300 x 300mm by Smart Aluminium. All up cost was $45 for 3 plates.

Photo 1 - Both sides of the blockboard were covered in laminate using contact cement

Photo 2 - I measured the distance from the outside of router base plate to the router bit and cut a spacer from MDF to suit. I traced the aluminium plate on the board and worked off that.

I used one of those guide tracks and simply ran the router down the length until I was about 2mm from the traced line. In the photo after the cut is made, you just check that your spacer is right. If not you cut it until it is and make another one.

Photo 3 - After you cut the first groove, put in both spacers and the aluminium plate and line up the next guide track. You do the same for the perpendicular cuts.

Photo 4 - I simply used the mitre track as a spacer to cut through the board.

[boban]

Photo 1 - I knew that little Veritas bullnose plane would come in handy at some stage. I used it to trim the cutout for a nice tight fit.

Photos 2 & 3 - I used a method that I recently saw again recently in FWW. Firstly you use a spacer that is the same size as your router bit. Funnily enough the mitre track is 12.7mm or 1/2 inch. I happened to have a router bit to match. You then remove the first spacer and put in the item you wish to fit. In this case its the mitre track.

Photo 4 - Just a photo of the cross section of the blockboard which is what the top is made of. Great stuff.

[boban]

Photo 1 - I got all excited and whacked in the Osborne Mitre Gauge, just to see if it works:D

Photo 2 - Thats where I was going to stop but decided to soldier on finish the plate so that it can take the router. I firstly cut an 89mm hole using a holesaw. This means that I have a lip of approximately 5mm onto which I can put 6mm hardwood inserts.

Photo 3 - Router fitted and I'm done for the night.

[Harry72]

Looking good blue my fav, you going to make it height adjust above table?

[boban]

Looking good blue my fav, you going to make it height adjust above table?

No Harry, its a Triton router. Because of the macro adjustment on the Triton, the height adjustment is easier than having to use a handle above the table. Also the Triton's self locking collet makes changing bits above the table a breeze.

If I was using my Makita, I would probably consider it as it doesn't have a macro adjustment or a self locking collet. The Triton's definately a better table mounted router.

[Cliff Rogers]

Looking good, that is going to be a nice table.

[Waldo]

You may or may not like it, but I have played your plans. Don't get any ideas ok.Tinsmith

G'day Tinsmith2,

With the the cutting list adapted from Boban's plans for his router table, is there allowance in your cutlist for the curf of blade from one cut to the next.

Excuse this if I'm asking a dumb question here. If it is, blame a Sunday arvo and some vitamin VBs. :shrug: :U

[Just George]

Boban,

What is going to be put into your deep drawers?

Please let me know in a little while if you then regret making those drawers so deep and narrow. Just for my own curiousity - please.

[Just George]

Apart from that though, it looks awesome, I wouldn't go to the detail you have gone to for a router table but well done though.

One of those green things is on your way if I can remember how to do it...

[Cliff Rogers]

Waldo.... 8 months.... where have you been???? :?

VB & keyboards.... :rolleyes: :D

[Waldo]

G'day Cliff,

Where have I been? I've been everywhere man - mostly in the shed. :shrug:

[Cliff Rogers]

...I've been everywhere man - mostly in the shed. :shrug:
For 8 months...... the last post, before you woke up Rip, was August last year. :p

[Waldo]

G'day Cliff,

You doing a Twighlight Zone on me? Last post I think I made was yesterday in Sinji's thread about Japanese joinery.

Back on topic before i get done for drivel. I came across this thread of yours Boban and have to say thanks. After finding a stack of resources, mostly at Sawmill Creek (cringe) and at Router Forums (http://www.routerforums.com/) I came across your table here :2tsup: and your plans for it - thanks heaps. Ill adapt them a bit, but you've got the ball rolling even faster for me now.

[Cliff Rogers]

..You doing a Twighlight Zone on me? Last post I think I made was yesterday ....
Errr... I meant this thread. :wacko: It was 8 months old when you dredged it up. :)

[Waldo]

G'day,

Ahh, now I follow. Blame it being a Sunday, the Commodore has worn off now, so that excuse doesn't hold. :U

Boban's thread applies for me now, didn't apply 8 months ago - didn't have a router then.

[Cliff Rogers]

G'day,

Ahh, now I follow. Blame it being a Sunday, the Commodore has worn off now, so that excuse doesn't hold. :U .
Model number, right? :rolleyes:

Boban's thread applies for me now, didn't apply 8 months ago - didn't have a router then.
Cool... 'tis a good thread. :2tsup:

[boban]

Boban,

What is going to be put into your deep drawers?

Please let me know in a little while if you then regret making those drawers so deep and narrow. Just for my own curiousity - please.

I put my hand held routers in those drawers. Made them to fit. Both of the outer draws can take 2 full sized routers. The centre takes all the fences and accessories.

I made it that way so that it was a one stop router station. Everything for my routers is there.

So to answer your question. Absolutely no regrets. It was nearly all made from leftover materials ,so my time was the major cost. This made it all the more satisfying.