Some of my pens

[Naf]

Here's a few pics of some of the pens I have made.
Pic 1 left to right:
Curly Jarrah
Black Palm
Black Palm
Western Rosewood
Curly Ash
Macassar Ebony
Goldfields Burl
Flame Sheoak

Pic 2 left to right:
Padouk
Tas Myrtle
Banksia
Birdseye Sheoak
Cocobolo
Peupleheart pencil
Camphor
Western Rosewood

Pic 3: All are made from Dymondwood

Pic 4: First 2 on the left are acrylic, the rest are Dymondwood

Hopefully the pics are in the right order.:confused:

Thanks for taking the time to look.
Nathan

[Dave52]

Nice work naf.
my pens are getting better except for the last couple. I didnt check them well enough before I put em together. Next time I'll be more careful.
Dave52

[ss_11000]

great pens........., i just brought some dw and will post some pics when done, is it any different to turn?

[lubbing5cherubs]

Nice pens. Great job
Toni

[Naf]

Stirlo, sorry for the delay in replying to you question, been away for a while. Anyway DW is very different to turn, firstly dont let the blank over heat when drilling or it can and will blow apart, and when turning make sure you use sharp tools.

Nathan

[ss_11000]

i bought 6 pieces, cut up 3 of em into blanks ( ie, 6 blanks), only drilled 2 of em ( btw this was on the weekend ) because they both heated up alot. what speed did you drill at?
i'm gonna have a go at them on either tuesday or wednesday.

[Naf]

Try this page: http://woodnwhimsies.com/dwood_%20info.htm
I use a parabolic drill bit, I'll never go back to anything different now.

Nathan

[ss_11000]

Don’t: use a brad point bit to drill your Dymondwood. Most sellers will tell you to use this bit but we have found the likelihood of breaking the work piece is high because of the small size of the work and the tendency of brad points to grab. Instead use a pilot point bit. If you are unable to find one then another good bit to use is called a parabolic bit, both are available from WoodCraft. Even a standard jobber style bit as we often use will work well as long as it is sharp.
whats a parabolic bit and a pilot point bit.........stupid me only has been using a brad point, may have to keep using it but.

[Naf]

Try this link Stirlo, well worth the $10.
http://cws-store.yahoostore.com.au/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_product_details?category_id=1107144896&product_id=1107369707

[CameronPotter]

Stirlo,

I have used a brad point bit (for my 10mm holes) - I happened to have the bit from another project. But my usuall bits are all brad point. They work for me. I also didn't have ANY troubles cutting the dymondwood with them.

I use my usualy technique.

Drill press on slow and only drill very slowly so that the bit has a chance to cut instead of being pressed into the timber. Then clear it out often.

Since slowing down my drill feed rate and clearing the swarf I haven't had a trouble with any bit that I have used (in fact, I don't even notice the difference )...

As for parabolic, that is only a brad point bit designed to clear the swarf more effectively. If you do it right (and withdraw the bit frequently) it should not make any difference.

Cam

[Ruffy]

Stirlo,

As for parabolic, that is only a brad point bit designed to clear the swarf more effectively. If you do it right (and withdraw the bit frequently) it should not make any difference.

Cam

Agree with most of what Cam says however, what he says about "parabolic" drills are not quite accurate. A parabolic is not a brad point drill at all. It has a standard twist type tip and the flutes are cut with a parabolic aspect to them. Yes it certainly does clear the swarf far more effectively but it also makes the bit less prone to being pulled off centre due to twisted grain and changing density of the material being drilled.

Parabolics are a very good drill, but for general pen work the ideal bit type to use is the bullet point bit, these resist the dragging off centre better than any other type, for material such as Dymondwood they reduce considerably the risk of blow outs near the end.

For drilling Dymondwood the secret is to ensure that the blank is fully captured inside whatever device you use to hold the blank whilst drilling (hopefully not your hand). The feed rate is the other critical factor it needs to be a constant slow rate.

The speed of the bit can vary I use 1450 RPM and over the last 50 or 60 blanks have not had a single blow-out.:rolleyes:

I have attached a pic of a parabolic..

[ss_11000]

thanx ruffy cam and naf

[CameronPotter]

Ruffy, I used the wrong term... My mind was elsewhere. :rolleyes:

Thanks for picking that up. :o

I meant that it was basically the same as a standard twist drill (except for swarf ejection).

I have also read that bullet points are the best, but I don't have any troubles with my normal twist drill bits (and I have used both).

Cam

[Naf]

Are the bullet bits expensive or around the same price as the parabolic bits?
I think the main problem I had with brad point bits is that they were fairly cheap quality, so when I went to the parabolic is was like WOW.

Nathan

[CameronPotter]

I think that most bullet point bits are pretty good quality.

But my twist set are all P&N viper bits. They work beautifully.

Unfortunately it had a bad side effect that now I am a bit picky about my drill bits. :o

[Gympietech]

...
Ruffy - There are only 10 types of people who understand binary, :D those that do and :( those that don't.
.
...Wouldn't it be "01 types of people..."??
.
I know, too much time on my hands..
Trevor.