Do You oil your lathe?

[lubbing5cherubs]

HI I have a new lathe and the bed that slide the tool rest up and the tail stock is not sliding the best. So we are wondering do you oil that?
Or what is the best way to maintain you lathe for a long life of your little girl
Toni

[Gra]

Not having a lathe myself (I borrow one when needed). I cant come from this as any sort of guru, but I would have thought oil would attract the shavings, then gum up the workings, wax may be a better option??

One of our many lathe gurus here will know

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

There are a couple of parts on my lathes which get oiled regularly: the bearing in the tailstock, the lay pulley bearings on my modified MC-900, my smaller scroll chucks. These are also parts that are cleaned regularly. :)

As for the bed, during use if the banjo or tailstock don't slide easily I'll give it a spray of WD-40, a quick rub-down with some 0000 steel wool and then wipe off the excess with a rag. The grade of the steel wool isn't of vital import, it's just what I have ready to hand. ;) If I expect the lathe to be idle for more than a couple of days, I like to wipe the bed down with a paste wax just for protection. I've even been known to use my softer Gilly Stephensons Furniture Wax's. :rolleyes:

BTW, I do exactly the same thing with my other cast iron tables. (bandsaw, scrollsaw, etc.)

[ss_11000]

skew, how regurlarly is regularly. i've had my lathe since christmas and haven't oiled it or any thing yet, is that too long?

[Dean]

I use paste wax on the bed for smooth tailstock sliding.
Works fine, keeps rust at bay and doesn't attract dust once buffed :)

[bitingmidge]

I use: Traditional Wax and Silverglide on everything, then wipe on a light coat of machine oil before use (then wipe it off again) but still the thing rusts where you don't want it too! :eek:

Cheers,

P

[rsser]

I've been following the owner's manual rec's for the Vicmarc and using light machine/sewing machine oil for the parts which move against each other.

For the other parts Lanoguard or Inox.

[TimberNut]

After using mine, i use the compressor to blow all the dust off it and then liberally spray wd40 all over the bed, tool rest (don't forget tool post) and all scroll chucks used.

basically everything not painted, and not electrical. then i wipe off any dribbling excess but leave a liberal amount on the lathe bed itself.

Inox or some of the other lubes would be better to use, but more expensive. this way wd40 in the large cans costs bugger all, and keeps my Vicmarc in tip top shape.

dust collects on the bed in between uses, attracted to the wd40, but a quick wipe before i start next time and it's all smooth and shiny again. takes less than 1 minute and I'm ready to go!

I made the mistake once with an older lathe, and a wet weekend happened that ended up turning into a wet couple of weeks. Didn't get near the shed for 2-3 weeks and before i knew it the old lathe bed looked decidedly 2nd hand. NEVER AGAIN. My VL300's worth too damn much not to take care of it.

If there was going to be an extended period away from the lathe (god forbid!) i'd wd40 it and cover with a drop cloth.

SS - do it now! don't delay. if there is any light rust colouring on it at all, as Skewy says 0000 steel wool should help. if that doesn't get it off, then you've left it way too long.

[ss_11000]

SS - do it now! don't delay. if there is any light rust colouring on it at all, as Skewy says 0000 steel wool should help. if that doesn't get it off, then you've left it way too long.

ok, i'll get round to it as soon as i get some steel wool, ( i'll get some this week).

[rsser]

Hi Ian,

I found that WD40 didn't last too long, and has some kind of solvent in it that isn't helpful to bearings, pivot bolts etc.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I found that WD40 didn't last too long, and has some kind of solvent in it that isn't helpful to bearings, pivot bolts etc.

I don't know about the solvent... but if you spray working parts (race & tailstock bearings, etc) you're washing out any oil/grease that may already be in there, which is rather self-defeating. And I think you're right about it not being a long-term solution. Wax, lanolin, etc. will protect the lathe for months, WD-40's protection is really measured in days.

Stirlo, unless you see rust forming on your bed you don't need to oil it... but it not only helps things move better and prevents rust, but it also makes it a damned sight easier to clean up the "overspray" from your finishes. :) I WD-40 my bed every day before use, but two or three times a week would probably be as good.

[ss_11000]

Stirlo, unless you see rust forming on your bed you don't need to oil it... but it not only helps things move better and prevents rust, but it also makes it a damned sight easier to clean up the "overspray" from your finishes. :) I WD-40 my bed every day before use, but two or three times a week would probably be as good.

right. there is only slight rust happening and thats because i left some wet sandpaper there too long, i'll try to get rid of it asap.

btw, whats wd-40?

[Farnk]

From the feedback I've read on these forums, i think that people would actively encourage me to spray water / acid , etc onto the gmc.;)

I spray a little wd40 on the vicmarc chuck, wipe it with a cloth and then use a little general purpose oil. Given that the chuck cost about 3 times what the gmc did I'd better look after it!

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Sterlo, try http://www.wd40.com.au/WD-40.html and all will be revealed.

Available at any good hardware, service-station and quite a few supermarkets. The stuff has 2000 "officially recognised" uses (http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm) and a helluva lot more unofficial ones. Won't post that link though... gotta leave ya something to search for. ;)

[Sir Stinkalot]

I didn't think it would take this long for somebody to say it ..... but here goes.

WD40 has silicon which ruins a number of finishes when used in the woodworking shop ....... I think I read it either on these boards or Neils book.

I use Inox I think which doesn't contain silicon.

I now stand to be corrected.

[ss_11000]

Stirlo, try http://www.wd40.com.au/WD-40.html and all will be revealed.

Available at any good hardware, service-station and quite a few supermarkets. The stuff has 2000 "officially recognised" uses (http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm) and a helluva lot more unofficial ones. Won't post that link though... gotta leave ya something to search for. ;)

thanx skew,:cool:

uses it as a pen polish, anyone tried that.:confused:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

WD40 has silicon which ruins a number of finishes when used in the woodworking shop ....... I think I read it either on these boards or Neils book.

I use Inox I think which doesn't contain silicon.

I now stand to be corrected.

Consider yourself corrected. There's no silicon in WD40, that's a misconception. :) I wouldn't be using it anywhere near my tools if it did, for exactly the reason you've given.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

uses it as a pen polish, anyone tried hat.:confused:

Not that I know of. Somehow I don't think it'd work too well, but having never tried it I can't honestly say... it might even work brilliantly! :eek:

I'm pretty sure it'd stop the pen from rusting though.

[ss_11000]

wikipedia says not to use it as a general lubricant

check here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40)

[black1]

what about the inox lanolin spray?
stays on bike chains forever:cool:

ps the old man used penetrene on saw, buzzer, thicknesser beds to stop rust forming:cool:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

wikipedia says not to use it as a general lubricant

check here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40)

That's right. It's already been said, a couple of times, to oil the parts that need oil (bearings and the like) and use WD40, Inox or similar for the bed and other bits.

Really, what you use on the bed doesn't matter too much so long as it protects from rust, helps lube the banjo, etc and doesn't react with the metal or wood. It also helps if it's non-toxic, not highly flammable, doesn't attract dust and is easy to remove if needs be.

WD40 meets these criteria when used properly and is very easy to obtain, so is commonly used. That's all. [shrug]

[TTIT]

I agree that a coating of WD40 will only last days which is why I prefer to use CRC 5-56. Seems to last much longer and just as easy to find. My old man used nothing else on his gun collection for all the years I remember - no rust!:D

[JackoH]

Inox.

[keith53]

I use Lanoguard on my stuff. Spray on, wipe off the excess. Works fine & leaves a thin coating.

[Hickory]

Biggest reason the tailstock and Tool rest holder (Who's Idea was it to call it a Freekin Banjo?) does not slide on the ways is because of obstruction such as rust, dings, or finish boogers dried to the surface. Sometimes, after turning wet wood (green wood) sap residue builds up between the "Tool Rest Holder" and the ways of the bed. Take off the Tail stock and Tool Rest Holder and clean their glides with WD-40 or solvent or such. Then clean all the chunks and finish drools off the ways. I take a fine Mill File and lay it across the ways and slide it head to tail down the ways. If there are any dings (if the metal is dented in then an equal amount is raised up around the dent) the file will smooth them. If the problem is rust then use a Scotch Brite pad and some Mineral Spirits (kerosene or other such solvent) and scour the rust off. After this treatment, Wax the ways and underside of the Tail stock and Tool Rest Holder with Paste wax (not auto wax, as it contains silicone and will ruin the finish on future prized pieces)

Re-assemble the parts and it should work freely and yet secure when you tighten the locks.

I also oil the headstock anywhere I can apply, even sealed bearings get a drink from me, (can't hurt) oil the thread etc. of the tail stock.
After such a maintaince task, I usually clean my mess and then "well oiled" myself and wait till tomorrow to try it out.

How often is the "Regular maintaince"? With me it is usually when the crap builds up to the point where I can't find my tools or seasonal changes are about to take place.

[ss_11000]

That's right. It's already been said, a couple of times, to oil the parts that need oil (bearings and the like) and use WD40, Inox or similar for the bed and other bits.

Really, what you use on the bed doesn't matter too much so long as it protects from rust, helps lube the banjo, etc and doesn't react with the metal or wood. It also helps if it's non-toxic, not highly flammable, doesn't attract dust and is easy to remove if needs be.

WD40 meets these criteria when used properly and is very easy to obtain, so is commonly used. That's all. [shrug]

ok, that makes sense.:)

[Cliff Rogers]

I use Lanoguard 3000 or Lanotec on surfaces that may rust but Toni is in Winton....
you have to stand very still for a very long time to go rusty in Winton. :D

Toni, my brother Graeme lived there for about 14 years & has just left to go back to Longreach.

If you want to support the local industry, use Lanotec 'cos it's Oz, Lanoguard is Nz. :D

[hughie]

[
If you want to support the local industry, use Lanotec 'cos it's Oz, Lanoguard is Nz. :D
[/QUOTE]

Actually it started out in Brisbane the web site is the nz end of it http://www.lanoguard.co.nz/

At some time they were selling the company to Asia. But the whole thing went weird and somewhat belly up. I suspect miss management I don't know what the state of play is at the moment. The web site is my brother in-laws site as he had/has the sole rights to NZ. I think he has simply not bothered to take it down,.
A bit of a shame as the product was/is very good. As wood preservative, rust prevention, cutting fluid,penetrating fluid and so on.

Once was an Oz product.now who knows.
hughie

[Speanwoody]

HI, I use gun oil it comes in varios tins or sprays, if it stops gun barells rusting etc its good enough for the lathe, also it is a very light weight oil.:rolleyes:

[reeves]

i use chainsaw oil on the open iron bits and RP7 for lube and de rusting...
works fine

[Lance Stunning]

There is no silicone in WD-40. Below is a partial of the MSDS (material safety data sheet) required by U.S. mfrs. When turning green woods, I spray the bed and tool rests beforehand. This has stopped any flash rusting on the cast iron of the Stubby. A liberal coating keeps the bed sliding too. It also removes the sticky labels warning me of some god awful accident just waiting the next time I...nevermind.


<B>

I. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION

</B>


Manufacturer: WD-40 Company Telephone:
Emergency only: 1-(800) 424-9300 (CHEMTREC)
Address: 1061 Cudahy Place (92110) Information: (619) 275-1400
P.O. Box 80607 Chemical Name: Organic Mixture
San Diego, California Trade Name: WD-40 Aerosol
92138-0607




II. HAZARDOUS INGREDIENTS


Exposure Limit
Chemical Name CAS Number % ACGIH/OSHA




Aliphatic Petroleum Distillates 8052-41-3 45-50 100 ppm PEL
Petroleum Base Oil 64742-65-0 15-25 5 mg/M


3 TWA (mist)
LVP Hydrocarbon Fluid 64742-47-8 12-18 1200 mg/M3 TWA
Carbon Dioxide 124-38-9 2-3 5000 ppm PEL
Non-hazardous Ingredients ‹ 10




III. PHYSICAL DATA



Boiling Point: 323°F (minimum) Evaporation Rate: Not determined
Vapor Density (air=1): Greater than 1 Vapor Pressure: 110 ±5 PSI @ 70°F
Solubility in Water: insoluble Appearance: Light amber
Specific Gravity (H


20=1): 0.817 @ 72°F Odor: Characteristic odor
Percent Volatile (volume): 74% VOC: 412 grams/liter (49.5%)




IV. FIRE AND EXPLOSION



Flash Point: 131°F Tag Closed Cup
Flammable Limits: (Solvent Portion) [Lel] 1.0% [Uel] 6.0%
Extinguishing Media: CO


2, Dry Chemical, Foam.
Special Fire Fighting Procedures: Contents Under Pressure
Unusual Fire and Explosion Hazards: FLAMMABLE - U.F.C. level 3 AEROSOL