Suggestions for Shingle Look Cubby Roof

[denis]

I am partway through constuction of a 1.8 x 1.8 metre cubby. The look I am after is a weatherboard cottage with shingled roof as shown in the photo.

This design is from an American book and I really like the look but am having some trouble coming up with appropriate Aussie materials to build the roof.

The roof shown in the plan / photo is constructed with 19 mm external ply clad with 'fancy' (rounded end) cedar shingles. Evidently in the US it is just a matter of popping down to Bunnings or the local equivalent and picking up a 'bundle' of 'fancy cedar shingles'.

Not so easy here in Perth.

I am not fussed about the specific materials used but I do want to achieve a durable weatherproof roof with the shingled look without breaking the bank if possible.

Ideas I have considered --

1. Buy regular (square) cedar shingles, which I can find a source for but are expensive and cut to a rounded shape. Problems: Very expensive, lots of work to cut.

2. Cut external ply into 'weatherboards' with a shingled edge to simulate the look. Problems: Durability in a roofing application, price.

3. Prefabricated 'shingled weatherboards' such as made in fibre cement by James Hardie, or in Weathertex. Problems: Pricey compared to regular weatherboards, and have a more square / angular appearance than what I want.

4. Fibre cement sheet e.g. Hardiflex or Villaboard. Cut sheets into 'weatherboards' with shingled edge. Problems: Don't know a suitable method to cut fibre cement into curved shapes.

5. Weathertex weatherboards or sheet (signboard). Cut into weatherboards with a shingled edge. I should be able to cut these with jigsaw / router but weathertex again is a bit pricey.

If anyone has suggestions, please let me know. Maybe I am wasting my time with this but I want to get away from the 'regulation' look of treated pine and colourbond that is typical in the prefab cubbies on the market.

Cheers

Denis

[jmk89]

Denis

I wouldn't try to replicate the US-style of shingle on an Australian shed. Rather, go for an Australian shingle-style. The simplest is rectangular shingles - iron bark is more authentic than cedar.
If you wanted to, you could use a technique I have seen used on slate roofs and put the shingles on at 45 degrees.
Of course for the true Aussie look - use corrugated iron.:D

Cheers and let us know what you decide to do (and how you do it).

Jeremy

[MICKYG]

Denis,

You could make them yourself as suggested from Ironbark. I do not know where you could buy them ready made. If you dont mind the colourbond look, you can see it here. I have never seen the type pictured anywhere in my travels.

http://gallery.groov-e.com/

look under cubbyhouse Regards Mike.;)

[Andy Mac]

Can't help you exactly, as I don't know of any WA timbers that would suit, unless you can get some decent sized Casuarina.
I made a shingle roofed dolls house, a three storey one to fit Barbie dolls standing up, so its pretty huge:eek: , and used Western red cedar which I split using my biggest chisel. It really does split easily and if you could find some 100mm+ joists in that timber I reckon you could do it yourself. The problem would be getting hold of a froe to do the job, but maybe a roughie from mild steel would do OK.
I think its worth pursueing, as its a pretty good look from that photo!:D

Cheers,

[denis]

Jeremy, Micky, Andy --

Thanks for your replies. I'm not an expert timber hunter but have a feeling that ironbark is probably even harder to come by in Perth than cedar. Also I'm not too confident in my ability to split my own shingles and put together a roof that would keep out the weather.

Does anyone have any thoughts on my idea of 'simulating' the appearance of the rounded shingles shown in the photo using some kind of weatherboard with a scalloped edge, and offsetting each row so that the scallops overlap to give a shingled appearance?

Cheers

Denis

[HandyAndrea]

What about erecting a weatherproof roof of marine ply, then fixing homemade shingles to that for the look of a shingle roof?

[mic-d]

Weathertex make simulated shingles

http://www.weathertex.com.au/productcat.aspx
Cheers
Michael

[denis]

What about erecting a weatherproof roof of marine ply, then fixing homemade shingles to that for the look of a shingle roof?

Good suggestion Andrea, that could work.

With that design the shingles would be purely decorative but would still need to be made out of something tough enough to stand up to sun and rain without rotting or warping (whatever I use, am planning to paint it with Wattyl Solaguard or similar).

So I'm thinking either a hardwood or something artificial like weathertex, fibre cement sheeting or plywood?

I could use recycled jarrah floorboards, they are pretty easy to obtain in Perth, around $25 / square metre.

I was keen on the idea of fibre cement sheeting (e.g. 4.5 mm Hardiflex). The price is right at only $9 / square metre but I am not sure how to cut it into curves.

If I cut plywood to cut into little shingle shapes, I figured I might run into problems with warping and moisture absorption along all those cut edges.

[denis]

Weathertex make simulated shingles

Thanks Michael. I have looked at the weathertex shingled siding. At around $40 per square metre of coverage, these are a bit pricey compared to regular weathertex weatherboards, which are around $20.

The look is pretty good but a bit squarer than I was hoping to achieve. I might still end up going with them though.

Has anyone used these? They are shorter than normal weatherboards, only around 1200 mm long so there would be vertical joints. There are special PVC joiners you can use.

If I nailed the weathertex shingled siding directly onto the rafters or onto battens, how weatherproof would that be? Would I need sarking or something underneath, or should I use them purely for decoration, i.e. with a fully waterproof roof underneath?

[denis]

Attached is a picture showing how I thought I might be able to make my own shingled look by cutting a scalloped edge onto regular weatherboards (e.g. weathertex weatherboards).

I was thinking I could cut these out roughly using a jigsaw, then form the edge using a template and flush trimming bit on the router. Maybe even a little 45 degree bevel.

Denis

[echnidna]

Attached is a picture showing how I thought I might be able to make my own shingled look by cutting a scalloped edge onto regular weatherboards (e.g. weathertex weatherboards).

I was thinking I could cut these out roughly using a jigsaw, then form the edge using a template and flush trimming bit on the router. Maybe even a little 45 degree bevel.

I think a grit edge jigsaw blade would work on cement sheet

[Ashore]

Why not cut the strips from marine ply with whatever profile you want then overlap with a good bead of silastic between them, Then coat with a sikens f7 or wattyl exterior esterpol .

[denis]

I think a grit edge jigsaw blade would work on cement sheet

Thanks Bob. Is that the same as a 'diamond coated' jigsaw blade? Are these easy to get? Anyone recommend a brand? I am a novice when it comes to cement sheet but am happy to experiment.

I have also seen references to cutting cement sheet using a cutout tool / spiral saw using an appropriate bit. Has anyone had any experience with that approach?

Seems like it might be easier to use that kind of tool with a template rather than freehand with a jigsaw. Or maybe I could make a template for the jigsaw to follow?

Denis

[denis]

Why not cut the strips from marine ply with whatever profile you want then overlap with a good bead of silastic between them, Then coat with a sikens f7 or wattyl exterior esterpol .

Hi Ashore. That sounds good too. Would exterior ply work here or would it need to be marine ply? From what I understand, marine ply has higher quality in the internal plies (no voids etc) which makes it stronger and more waterproof. Is that the main difference, or is it a superior grade of wood / adhesive as well?

If I used exterior ply and filled any voids in the cut edges, then sealed as you suggest, would that be any good? My main concern with using ply was to avoid any major warping after 12 months or so in the weather.

Denis

[Ashore]

If you use 12mm minimun 19mm would be better and form up well with good battons and support then nail or screw every 100mm under the overlap and behind the silicon bead I don't think warping will pose that much of a problem.
As to the composition and diffrence between marine ply and exterior ply :confused:
I know the 19mm basket ball backboard I made from marine ply for the kids when they were 12 and 14 hasn't warped and there 29 and 31 now.


Rgds

[denis]

If you use 12mm minimun 19mm would be better and form up well with good battons and support then nail or screw every 100mm under the overlap and behind the silicon bead I don't think warping will pose that much of a problem.

Cheers Ashore, many thanks for the advice.

Denis