Japanese puzzle boxes

[Ecca]

Does anyone know if there is any info available on how to make a puzzle box?
My research would suggest that the info is passed on from master to apprentice and the youngest of those is 60! It is a brain teaser just trying to work out the mechanism let alone trying to make one.I'm making this my life's work to master the puzzle.

regards Ecca
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon6.gif

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Ahhh, Grasshopper. First you must walk this rice-paper without leaving a mark...

[zenwood]

Which one did you have in mind?

[Ecca]

Zenwood, Sorry didn't know about different types, except for different number of moves. My own example of Himitsu-Bako is about 3 sun long and takes 12 moves to open. That will do nicely. I feel that it would be a real challenge for someone of my limited talents. We can all improve.
regards Ecca

[Sculptured Box]

Ecca

Try this site - he is the Australian Mr.Puzzle maker and has an extensive list of Links to other worthwhile sites.


http://www.mrpuzzle.com.au/index.htm




Tony Ward

[zenwood]

My own example of Himitsu-Bako is about 3 sun long and takes 12 moves to open.Sounds like you've already made one - ? Got any pics?

[Ecca]

Thanks for the website Tony. Have had a quick look to date but it does not appear to have any plans. I may have to go and live in Japan for half a century or so.
No I have not made one but was given one.
I'm convinced that to make a puzzle box in the trad. manner would test anyone one this site. As I said it could be a life time quest.
But isn't that what retirements for?
Ecca:cool:

[zenwood]

Well, we couldn't work out the keyhole joint, so we've got no hope of sorting out the puzzle box.:o

See this thread: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=31772

Good luck in your quest, Ecca.

[mag]

Zenwood,

Just on the Keyhole joint, could it be made by using a 45 degree joint and sliding the faces together at 45 degrees. Looks like it would be the way to do it.

Mag

[javali]

Mag - check that discussion in Zen's link. It was discussed there - does not work. The keyhole part must enter the joined face from some side, and there is no entry hole.

[labolle]

Reproduce it. That is the only way to lay this discussion to rest... Otherwise it is like which came first, the chicken or the egg.

So far we have managed to reproduce two of his more intriguing joints: the Mizu (water)Character Joint used on his writing desk and the Hawks Nail Joint used on a beautiful chest.

The first thing to remember in trying to reproduce it is that it CAN be done. It was done before, and can be done again, once you figure out the secret.

I have a few things on the burners now and can't get around to trying that one yet.

Anyone else up for the challenge?

[labolle]

The keyhole part must enter the joined face from some side, and there is no entry hole.

There is another side to think about: If there is a hidden miter involved, then the beveled edge of the miter could hold the entry point and still be completely hidden once it is assembled. Thus, no entry hole to be seen. Think of this as you would biscuits in a miter joint. They are there but once the joint is assembled, there is no visible entry hole. Now, take that concept a step further: Cut a 45 degree miter on two board faces. THen, using those boards with miters pre-cut, cut his key hole fingers.

... Er.. Work in progress here. The concept has changed mid paragraph:

Cut his fingers first, then add the miters between the fingers after finger have been layed out, the entry holes are buried in the miters once the joint is assembled....

I feel like I'm on the right track here. I will take a small board and try this with a three or four fingers soon, unless someone else beats me to the punch.

[javali]

There is another side to think about: If there is a hidden miter involved, then the beveled edge of the miter could hold the entry point and still be completely hidden once it is assembled. Thus, no entry hole to be seen.

If the only linear movement is used when making the joint, the entry holes will be visible at least on one of the boards, either on the inside or on the outside. The only way I could think of is to slide the boards in at an obtuse angle, and then rotate it to 90 degrees, but than the joint is partly hollow, and I cannot see how to complete the four sides. I am very bad at visualising complex 3d objects, and may be missing something obvious.