Stuck router bit.

[CT]

Hi all, this is my first post.

I have a new DeWalt 625EK router. I used the router for the first time today. I successfully fitted a 1/4" shank roundover bit and that worked just fine. I tried to remove the bit and damn the bugger if it did not stick. Eventually I managed to smack it out breaking the bit in the process. Smart, eh?

Anyway, I wanted to try some of the other bits so I switched to the 1/2" collet with a straight cutter bit. A few test cuts later I tried to remove that bit as well. Basically, the bit is well and truly stuck. I can fully remove the nut but I don't know what to do to get the collet free. It looks like I have to smack that one out?

I tried a vice grip on the bit shank but it's not budging. This is the first time I've ever used a router and I'm wondering if stuck bits are going to be the norm with a router.

Right now I'm tempted to take the router back to the shop I bought it from and see if they can loosen it somehow. Two questions:

1. Did I overtighten the nut do you think? I'm tempted to tighten it a lot as I don't want the bit to come out at 22000rpm especially when my dick is only inches away from it!:)

2. Is there anything I can do to make it easier to remove the bits?

Thanks.

[HJ0]

Good news my ryobi is not all crap, like some forum member told me.lol

Take it back cuz it shouldn't be needing that much effort or brain power.


HJO

[Zed]

a few things come to mind :

you've overtightened it and or
the 1/4 inch collet and or the 1/2 inch shaft have burs or crap built up.

if you've overtightened it bad luck I suppose
if theres crap then get some fine emery cloth to sand it down a tad to clean up the metal surface.
a bit of light machine oil on bits and collets wont hurt either.

do i need to mention keep the contact surfaces clean ? :D

the collet could be fault and be binding - sometimes happens with cheaper collets make sure all surfaces are clean dn deburred...

if all this fails return to the shop .

cheers

[Groggy]

A common fault with a number of routers is the users drop the bit to the bottom of the shaft. Try putting the bit in, then lifting it 1-2mm before tightening. Some people fit O-rings to the bit to avoid the problem.

[Zed]

I didnt know that one grog. ta

[Groggy]

I didnt know that one grog. taIt is actually a more common fault with bits that come loose (I know, his was tight - it's good practice anyway) and more common with Makita routers. Essentially, the collet tightens on the shaft before it compresses its own threads. Other problems can come from cheap 1/4" bits that have a slight (or pronounced) radius just under the cutter head where it joins the shaft. What happens here is the radius is the only part that is clamped by the collet (or the radius gets the majority of the clamping force). Once you start the router and apply it to wood, the vibrations jars the radiused section free and weakens the hold on the bit. You then get the unwanted situation of the bit jumping free, scaring a week off your life, destroying your workpiece then screaming across the shop wreaking havoc at 22,000rpm. DAMHIKT please. As the pirate captain said "Bosun, get me my brown trousers".

This can also happen if you manage to torque a bit of grit in the collett, make sure everything is clean and not rusty.

For anyone not aware of it, Pat Warner's website (http://www.patwarner.com/) is a valuable resource for routing information.

Now, back to the situation at hand, what I suspect may have happened is the bit was sitting on the floor of the shaft when the collett was tightened. Instead of just tightening around the shaft of the bit, the process of screwing the nut on the collet has done two tightening actions - tightened on the shaft AND pulled the bit down onto the base of the shaft, making it darn near impossible to remove. The solution is to lift the bit slightly before tightening so it can be clamped in one plane only.

Please note that this is theory only as I do not have a DW625, I just think it most likely.

[QldWoodie]

I have a Dewalt 625 and also a Festo 2000. The collet on both these routers (plus others, I'm sure) needs to be clipped into the nut first. Hold the nut in one hand and push the collet into it. It should click into place. Then insert the nut+collett assembly into the router, start the screw thread, then insert the router bit and tighten properly. Overtightening is unlikely to be the issue.

When untightening, the first half-turn of the nut backs off the pressure but will not release the bit --- keep unturning (the nut goes loose for a half-turn or so then goes firm again) -- and this will then release the bit with no dramas.

Hope this helps

Qw

[CT]

A common fault with a number of routers is the users drop the bit to the bottom of the shaft. Try putting the bit in, then lifting it 1-2mm before tightening. Some people fit O-rings to the bit to avoid the problem.
Groggy, my bit has quite a long shank so I had about 8mm or so protuding. It actually went it quite a long way so I'm sure I've not grounded it in the arbor.


I have a Dewalt 625 and also a Festo 2000. The collet on both these routers (plus others, I'm sure) needs to be clipped into the nut first. Hold the nut in one hand and push the collet into it. It should click into place. Then insert the nut+collett assembly into the router, start the screw thread, then insert the router bit and tighten properly. Overtightening is unlikely to be the issue.
I think this is the problem. I recall I just put the collet in first then the bit and then the nut on top. I should have remembered that as the collet was pressed into the nut before I promptly went about and messed it up. Put that down as a Homer Simpson Dork of the Month candidate. Duh.

Anyway, going forward, what's the best way to prepare a bit and the collet? Should I liberally grease it for example or is that too dangerous given the tight tolerances the bit requires in the collet?

I'm wondering if I might need to remove the base to get better access to the assembly? I'm loathe to want to muller it with a 5Kg hammer as I'm sure the motor bearings will not forgive me. Despite my self-inflicted snafu, the results of my first route were (too me at least) really superb. All I did was roundover the sharp edge of a top I made for my portable bench and I did some straight cuts on some scrap MDF and they were dead straight. Unfortunately at this time all I can route now are 1/4" square cuts.:rolleyes:

I'll see what the shop have to say first.

You guys don't mind having a pommy ba*tard in the forum do you?:D

[TommyC]

Naah, One more b@stard is like a drop in the ocean:D

[Knurl]

Bit worried about Tosser City, though! Dare we ask?

[ozwinner]

Bit worried about Tosser City, though! Dare we ask?

And the winner is.....................

Manchester :p :D

Al :cool:

[Stuart]

A common fault with a number of routers is the users drop the bit to the bottom of the shaft. Try putting the bit in, then lifting it 1-2mm before tightening. Some people fit O-rings to the bit to avoid the problem.
What would happen if you put a small o ring in the bottom of the collet - means the router bit can rest against it before starting, but will compress during tightening. ON release of the router bit, the oring will help bit extraction. Any thoughts?

[scooter]

Been posted a few times before, Stu. Been doing it a while, works well. :)

[Groggy]

What would happen if you put a small o ring in the bottom of the collet - means the router bit can rest against it before starting, but will compress during tightening. ON release of the router bit, the oring will help bit extraction. Any thoughts?It would also probably act as a spring under compression while the router is spinning. Not likely to affect the bit though. Whichever way would work I guess. Maybe a dab of hot glue would work too. If it was off centre I am not sure if there would be mild vibration, but I doubt it. So, yes, I guess it should work.

Took me a while to get there!

[CT]

Bit worried about Tosser City, though! Dare we ask?
I'm ex Johannesburg but we now live in a tosstown called Crawley, just south of Gatwick Airport in the UK south east. I went to the local shop, a DeWalt dealer. It's a family run shop and they immediately got on the phone to DeWalt and explained the problem. The service engineer gave them a walkthrough of what to try and minutes later, both bit and collet were successfully extracted with no damage. You just don't get service like that from the big dealers.

BTW: the collet does indeed snap into the nut. I won't forget to do that again!

[Knurl]

I'm going thru Gatwick on 25th - know the area well. Will be interested to look at what ww stuff I see over yonder. O rings about all I can fit in the baggage,tho.

[CT]

Don't buy here in the UK unless you are convinced you cannot get it anywhere else. This country is known as ROB (Rip-Off Britain). We're looking to move to Adelaide (we have family in Aldgate) so I'm kind of tempted to not buy too much now and rather get what I really need than nice-to-haves.

Sad to hear you are going through Gatwick and not stopping. you could have got ripped-off by a tax driver and have come to Crawley for an hour or two. I could have shown you around the town centre and pointed out the local scum and benefit scroungers. We also have the proud record of Britain's youngest mother who dropped her first mutant at 12 and is now expecting her second at 15 and she does not know the father of either. That sort of sums the town up.

Anyway, I like the O-ring tip. I also like my DW625 router, now that it's working again.;)

[lateral]

I have just figured out why the bits were getting stuck in my Makita router.

The collet is supposed to stay seated in the nut and remain seated. Mine was not doing this and was "detaching" from the nut.

I contacted Makita and they said that if this was happening then a new nut and collet assembly was required.

I went to my local power tool service centre and he said that he recommended that I install a Bosch nut and collet as these seemed to work better that the genuine Makita.

I have tested it and it seems to work better.:)

[Ben from Vic.]

I have a Dewalt 625 and also a Festo 2000. The collet on both these routers (plus others, I'm sure) needs to be clipped into the nut first. Hold the nut in one hand and push the collet into it. It should click into place.

Hope this helps

Qw

I love this forum. Am continualy supprised by how even google search often has a woodworking forums response near the top of the list, for all sorts of subjects, not just ww.

I bought a Hitachi M12V2 a few days ago and in my first two test cuts the bits stuck in the collet, so I googled and here I am again!:rolleyes:
Went the shed and checked and sure enough the tapered bit needed to be clipped into the nut. Problem solved.

Thanks Qw.:2tsup: