How tight.

[CT]

Continuing on from my first thread I'd like to know how tight I should make the nut. I'm tempted to overtighten it than have it too loose but I guess making it too tight is not so good either? Are we talking about hand-tight and then add a bit or must I really tighten it?

[chrisb691]

If you watch any of the router videos on the woodworking channel, you will note that they put quite bit of oomf in when tightening the nut. I personally tighten as hard as I can, as the thought of a bit coming out at 20,000 rpm scares the pants off me.

[BobL]

Continuing on from my first thread I'd like to know how tight I should make the nut. I'm tempted to overtighten it than have it too loose but I guess making it too tight is not so good either? Are we talking about hand-tight and then add a bit or must I really tighten it?

It depends on the length of spanner you are using. I use a 250mm long spanner and "really tighten it". Of course I could make it tighter still using a longer spanner.

[Groggy]

cinched (hand tight)
firm (workbench bolt nut)
router nut
tight (vise bolt nut)
very tight (car wheel nut)
extremely tight (helicopter rotor head nut aka Jesus nut)

[chrisb691]

cinched (hand tight)
firm (workbench bolt nut)
router nut
tight (vise bolt nut)
very tight (car wheel nut)
extremely tight (helicopter rotor head nut aka Jesus nut)
Always thought a Jesus nut was something to do with religion, but your definition makes more sense.:D

[mat]

The older landcruisers used to have what was known as the Jesus bar above the glovebox. The passenger would grab the handle at the same time as saying "Jesus" in challenging circumstances.

[journeyman Mick]

CT
as I understand it, when you tighten a fastener assembly a few things happen:
The components being fastened are forced together.
The bolt is stretched (microscopically)
The threads are deformed.

If you just hand tighten a nut only the first item will happen. As you progressively tighten it you get a slight deformation of the threads and a microscopic stretching of the bolt. These deformations lock the assembly and (in most cases) prevent it from coming undone. Further security can be given with the use of Nyloc nuts, a second locking nut, castellated nuts with a cotter pin or castellated nuts with a locking wire.

If you over tighten then you run the risk of thread stripping, bolt shearing, head rounding (in the case of hex head bolts) camming out (in the case of phillips heads or allen keys), breaking castings or crushing the components. All things you want to avoid. Any fastrener has an optimal torque at which it has the best resistance to coming undone and develops the most holding force. This will vary with the size and grade of the fastener. So how do you find what the optimal torque is? One way that I've been told is "Tighten it up till it breaks, then back it off half a turn" :eek: ;) . (that's the useless answer:p )
The technical answer would be that the manufactureer should have an optimal torque setting, whilst the real world answer would be that experience will teach you the right "feel"

Mick (one time tinkerer with all things mechanical - tractors, dozers, cars etc etc)

[Harry72]

There's no need to go ultra tight at all, providing the collet and shaft/nut are in good condition, turn till handtight then tighten with spanner about 1/3~1/2 turn depending on thread pitch of the shaft/nut(coarse=1/3, fine=1/2~3/4).

[BobL]

Reading tightening suggestions on this thread I wondered if I might be tightening my bits too much so today on my brand new (bought yesterday) triton router I tried a little less tighter than usual with a 1/4" x 10mm deep, slot cutting bit (also 1/4" shank). I started the router and had cut about a 3 cm length of the slot when for the first time ever I saw the router bit climbing up out of the collet. By the time I hit the off switch the bit and collet adapter had rattled their way out completely - it was not that dramatic, the bit and collect just bounced around between the work pieces and the side of router fence for about 2 seconds. I inspected the bit and adapter and it looked OK so I reinserted all and gave it my usual tightening and it worked fine. Later when I took both out it looked like there was a very thin film of oil all over the adapter. Anyway - it fair put the wind up me so watch out for oil on new collets and bits.

On the down side my DC started to make a rattling hum which was getting louder and louder so I had to turn it off around midday. I checked out the impeller and there's nothing jamming rubbing in that area. I suspect a bearing. The DC is only two months old so lets see how good Timbecon is with this problem.

[scooter]

Is it a U2 brand dusty, Bob ? ;)

[BobL]

Is it a U2 brand dusty, Bob ? ;)
Orange machine 1HP. Purchased March 18 this year

[soundman]

One of the most common problems encountered with routers is overtightening of the collet nut.
If you overtighten it the router bit may jam and you will damage the collet in some way.
I have heard recomendations of this or that number of part turns and some with a limp wristed approach.

It will differ a bit from machine to machine as the collet mechanism differs.

The simple answer is firm.
As you tighten you will feel the collet gettin tighter and the spanner mooving less and less. when it doen't seem to want to moove too much further thats about it.

If you are having difficulty with jamming bits or the not takes SOME getting undone you are overtightening.

check the surfaces of your bits and the surfaces of the collet parts. they should not show any brusing or malformation.

the surfaces should be bright and clean and add a smear of light machine oil to all contact surfaces and a bit more to the theads.

Most people will wreck at least one collet when they start with routers.
If it takes excessive force o tighten safely chech and replace your collet parts if necessary.

cheers

[Ashore]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned , only ever use the correct supplied spanner.
The length of the spanner is designed for that size nut
Never use a shifting spanner or anything with an extension or you will damage the collet and or nut.
Rgds

[scooter]

Orange machine 1HP. Purchased March 18 this year

Through to Gillie :)

I was referring to the last para in your post #9, & to this album
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B000022TT6.01.LZZZZZZZ.jpg


Sorry mate :D ...............cheers..............Sean

[Lignum]

One of the most common problems encountered with routers is overtightening of the collet nut.



So true. People who have collet problems are the ones who usualy tighten as hard as they can. My routers are the two spanner jobs and the correct way is to tighten and loesen using the both spanners in one hand only with your other hand holding the router. A very firm squeeze with your hand is all thats needed to looses and tighten.

[BobL]

Through to Gillie :)

I was referring to the last para in your post #9, & to this album
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B000022TT6.01.LZZZZZZZ.jpg


Sorry mate :D ...............cheers..............Sean

I have that album (one of the first CDs I bought) and thought of that when I wrote Post#9 but I forgot too quickly thereafter. The rattling hum has changed to a definite bearing noise so it went back to Timbecon today. I was told that as most of their guys went to the Brisy show they might mot be able to look at until the end of the week.

[Shannon Nash]

Gudday ,

I think quality of collet is a key factor. I once tightened 1/2" a bit in my makita 3612, used the router and went to remove the bit only to realise oh sh*t the spanner is in the draw and I had only hand tightened the bit. It didn't move a bit (excuse the pun) but that is the benefit of a many slit collet.

I thik as others have suggested it is a 'feel thing'. With the double stage locking collets (loosen tighten then loosen) when removing a router bit you tend to feel when it is snug & firm.

An aside, when teaching and being taught CPR compressions the analogy given to me, that I ve never forgoten is that compressing someones chest to get adequate blood flow is like bending a branch on a tree to the point just before you know it is going to snap.

Certainly most collets need to be degreased prior to use as do many bits. I use 'degreaser' for this task (well I'll be!). Then I store my bits in a large sealed plastic container and throw in a couple of the little moisture absorbing silica sacks that come with new shes etc, whenever a new pair is purchased for a member of the household.

Hope I haven't bored you senseess.

SN

[scooter]

Struth, Shannon, you still goin' on, mate :rolleyes: :p

Made some good points there, I like the branch bending analogy.


Cheers..............Sean

[sinjin1111]

Generally speaking, do the nut up just so as too strip the thread completely then back if off half a turn. Then the first chance you get give the spanners to someone else so they get the blame.
Sinjin

[CT]

Generally speaking, do the nut up just so as too strip the thread completely then back if off half a turn. Then the first chance you get give the spanners to someone else so they get the blame.
Sinjin

I tried doing that but I broke the spanner.