Bowls off the Stubby

[rsser]

Hi folks,

as asked, couple of pieces.

One Myrtle burl bowl, 19cm in diameter, and a shallow redgum job, 23cm.

Both finished with Danish oil.

[Farnk]

Very Nice Ern, Classic simple lines.

[ss_11000]

great work ern, hows the new lathe going?

[TTIT]

Very nice Ern. Like the foot on the Myrtle bowl. Extra brownie points for the photography too!:)

[cedar n silky]

Hi Ern.
Good to see you enjoying the Stubby.
Saw one in the flesh at the show today.
Got a "show special" in Brisbane this arvo and have a VL 175 on the back of the ute!! Scored a Vicmarc chuch and bits and pieces at good prices, so you know what I'll be doing tommorow!
Cheers:D Cedar n silky

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Nice lip on the redgum, Ern, that's my favourite form for bowls. How'd you ebonise?

[rsser]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Congrats on the Vicmarc Cedar, should keep you off the streets for a while!

Skew, the 'ebony' is no more than black marker pen. Couple of coats.

[ptc]

Ern.
very nice.
When are you going to get into some realy BIG stuff ?
Wake the Beast up.

[Toasty]

Beautiful lines, Ern. Tried to give you a greenie but it said I had to share the love first...

[Gil Jones]

Ern, those are great looking bowls, with a very smooth finish, and beautiful wood!!

[tonysa]

nice bowls ern, 'specially like the red gum.

how many coats of danish and did you sand/EEE between coats ?
just started experimenting with danish
do you find all danish oil's are the same, eg cabot, organoil etc ?

[jmk89]

They are not all the same - my preference is for Rustins, others like other brands. As always, try one, see if you like it. If you do, don't bother searching further. If you don't try another....:D

[CameronPotter]

Ditto to what they said Ern. :D

Nice work.

Cam

[rsser]

Thanks again guys.

As for what DO, yep, Rustins as well, on Len Smith's recommendation. Haven't tried any other brands. Used to use Organoil burnishing oil but got sick of having to knock the raised grain back after a few weeks.

Just 3 coats of DO on the Myrtle and 4 on the redgum. No wet sanding or buffing, but I'm thinking the redgum needs a bit more filling and maybe will give it a coat of two of UBEAUT trad wax.

Yep ptc, got a big disc of Norfolk pine on the beast at the moment. Clears the fixed-in-place bed so could be much bigger, but it's nice to lean into it with all those headstock horses and see it disappear in the mass of shavings coming off. I like having the full rev range available on the 1:1 drive. With the Vicmarc it was a bit of bother to change pulleys to go over 1100 rpm so I tended not to.

There's such a lot of mass with the Stubby that she runs smoothly whatever is on it and whatever you do with it.

So maybe the next piece will be a whole end-grain turned lump of the NI pine. Seems stable enough to turn green. I've got a Munro hollower and reckon I won't be needing to go to the gym while hanging off that.

Would also like to have a go at a big lump of garden variety of euc. burl.

And hi Gil, recognise the name from WoW. I like your comments on folk's works.

[tonysa]

thanks for the DO info, i'll give rustins a try
i gotta admit i'm a sucker for a bit of red gum and that bowl still looks superb, I like the texter touch too.
I'd be interested to see it after the trad wax treatment, not sure if photo will pick up the difference but would be worth a try
cheers
tony

[rsser]

Hi Tony,

yep, it's pretty versatile. You can wet sand with it for more grain filling effect, and buff for a higher sheen. Just don't buy a lot at a time since it goes off (tho can be filtered thru a stocking and thinned with White Spirits).

Actually I held off the final wax coat in order to take the photo, as even in dull light the wax bumps up the highlights and makes contrast control difficult.

[tonysa]

never thought of wet sanding with DO, bit like organoil's hard burnishing oil technique (not that i've got that mastered), i'll give it a try..
I'll get some wax and slap that on top and check out the difference too.

thanks for the ideas
Tony

[rsser]

Yep, I've never done it but apparently it can be done. I'd guess on the first coat.

Oh, and I should've said, get the missus out of the stocking first ;-}

'My, you're glowing beautifully tonight' prob. wouldn't make up for that omission.

Edit: for a buffed finish see http://www.cws.au.com/cgi/index.cgi/shopfront/view_by_category?category_id=1107144873

And see also http://www.rustins.com.au/rustins/rustinsdanishoil%20p1.htm

And for wet sanding: http://www.rustins.co.uk/wturn.htm

Enough already.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I always wet sand the first coat of Rustin's with 1200 grit or higher. I've an intense dislike of sanding sealer and wet sanding works just as well. Better, really, as there's no colour discrepancies. :) As with organoil, the knack is to apply enough oil to keep things wet without using too much. I'll give it a light rub back with 0000 steel wool when dry and subsequent coats are the normal "apply oil, wipe off excess, wait 'til dry then EEE" routine.

And Ern's dead right about it going off in the can... unless you use a lot of it fairly quickly, the 250ml can's are the best bet. I've been having problem$ with my 1L cans lately as my production (and use of Danish) has dropped off. [sigh]

[tonysa]

thanks for the tips and links, appreciated
i'll try it out, got some red gum (aka firewood) sitting here waiting to be look after :)
cheers
tony

[rsser]

Good luck with the redgum. Lovely colour and texture but unstable something chronic. The bowl I posted is checking on the bottom already and it had been dried for years and in the shed for at least two.

[Captain Chaos]

G'day Ern,
Just caught up with this thread tonight. Beaut bowls - as always! You must be itching to get a decent slab of redgum etc. on the Stubby & put it through its paces?
In regards to the Rustins Danish Oil, Tim Skilton recommends decanting the danish oil into a 2.0 litre silver wine cask bladder, ( Tim recommends Banrock Station Cab. Shiraz;):D dunno why, Hic ) as it has a push button tap & says that it is less likely to clog or seize than a twist type tap. Once the danish oil is poured into the bladder, the tap is refitted & the air is expelled. Pour a small quantity into a small jar for use on the turned item. This keeps waste to a minimum -- hopefully.
Regards,
Barry.

[martrix]

G'day Ern,
Just caught up with this thread tonight. Beaut bowls - as always! You must be itching to get a decent slab of redgum etc. on the Stubby & put it through its paces?
In regards to the Rustins Danish Oil, Tim Skilton recommends decanting the danish oil into a 2.0 litre silver wine cask bladder, ( Tim recommends Banrock Station Cab. Shiraz;):D dunno why, Hic ) as it has a push button tap & says that it is less likely to clog or seize than a twist type tap. Once the danish oil is poured into the bladder, the tap is refitted & the air is expelled. Pour a small quantity into a small jar for use on the turned item. This keeps waste to a minimum -- hopefully.
Regards,
Barry.
nice one, thats a brilliant tip............now,..... wheres that fruity lexia!http://www.ubeaut.biz/tequila.gif

[Captain Chaos]

nice one, thats a brilliant tip............now,..... wheres that fruity lexia!http://www.ubeaut.biz/tequila.gif G'day Matrix,
Let me know if you're having any trouble disposing of the fruity lexia. :D
I'll gladly help you to empty the cask,hic, hic!
Regards,
Barry.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

In regards to the Rustins Danish Oil, Tim Skilton recommends decanting the danish oil into a 2.0 litre silver wine cask bladder,

EUREKA!http://www.ubeaut.biz/woohoo.gif

Good-bye marbles... so long, see ya, don't bother writing! http://www.ubeaut.biz/waving.gif

:D:):D

[tonysa]

thanks for all the DO tips
i got some ruskins DO today, totally different to cabots (which smelt more like poly varnish than tung oil).
Couple more coats and I'll let you know how it goes on some test pieces - red gum and huon pine.
wanted hard shellac for the huon but mik didn't have any in stock.
anyway got some trad wax to try

cheers
tony

[rsser]

Thanks for the tip Barry. Yeah, marbles suck, Skew. Never have enough of them.

Only wrinkle for me is the volume; a litre has lasted for ever. I managed to extend its a bit life by filtering and diluting with White Spirits.

Tony, you might consider nitrocellulose sanding sealer with Huon and a coat of wax or two over the top. I find this combo reduces darkening from the finish to a minimum. IMHO oil finishes darken and dull Huon to an unacceptable degree.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Huon is the only timber where I consistently use a CA finish. It maintains the colour and adds a degree of hardness.

[Captain Chaos]

"Only wrinkle for me is the volume; a litre has lasted for ever."
G'day Ern,
You don't have to fill the bladder with danish oil, just put what you have in the bladder - 500ml, 1 litre, whatever & then expel the air in the bladder until the oil is lapping at the tap opening.
Regards,
Barry.

P.S. I couldn't use marbles, I lost all mine years ago!!!:D Or so I've been told.

[tonysa]

Ern, you mentioned "nitrocellulose sanding sealer ", is that the same as Ubeaut's sanding sealer coz I use that quite regularly ?
I also see they recommend 2 coats followed by trad wax, so I'm thinking its the same ? Oil does darken huon, even the Rustins DO I tried today.
BUT red gum comes up a treat !
Tony

[rsser]

Thanks for the tip Barry.

Tony, I got mine from The Woodsmith but expect it's the same kind of stuff (who recommend cutting theirs by 25% or more with thinners). Same deal: couple of coats then wax. Yeah, Huon and DO don't work too well.

Even finely figured redgum darkens over time and loses some of its pizzaz. I'm wondering about trying something with some UV inhibitors in it like spar varnish/poly.

[rsser]

Another bowl off the Stubby.

Walnut stump burl, 27cm x 4.5 cm. Nice turning timber. Finished with three coats of DO and one of Ubeaut Trad wax.

[ptc]

Very nice.
wait till it arrives.

[rsser]

hehe .... thanks ptc.

And another. Widest to date; a mongrel bit of blackwood; platter 13.5" x 1.5". DO finish.

[ptc]

Very tidy.
beautifull colour.
according to tnt its in Launceston. !
why would it go from devonport to there ??

[rsser]

Yeah ptc, I noticed. Computer error? New truckie on the job?

[cedar n silky]

Another bowl off the Stubby.

Walnut stump burl, 27cm x 4.5 cm. Nice turning timber. Finished with three coats of DO and one of Ubeaut Trad wax.
Hi Ern. Lovely work! you must have got the bearings sorted!! :) Youre getting me all inspired!! I'm surrounded by blackwood, and there's one biggy leaning over a nearby road at a "precarious angle" so I think it's got to go!:D
Where did you dig up the Walnut stump burl from?:eek: Did you buy it from OS, or source it locally, and if you buy timber like that, what would you pay?? (just out of interest!) Cheers:)

[ss_11000]

nice work Ern, very nice timbers and very well turned and finished..greeny etc.

[rsser]

Hi Cedar,

Yep, bearings sorted thanks. Steep and frustrating learning curve that was. The Stubby hadn't had much use but the bearings depend on running with a load for the grease in them to melt. Suspect it had been run too long without much of a load. So from here on every goblet I turn will be attached to a 40kg redgum carrier :D

Blackwood comes up very well on the lathe. Sometimes you get some crappy grain that's hard to cut clean. 's advice was to use a scraper flat on the rest with a fresh burr.

The Walnut was a real find. Just luck - not seen anything like it for years. Then again you make your own luck by obsessively searching .... that's all I can say ;)

And how's the 175 going? Had a go at a big lump with that outrigger yet?

----------

And thanks Stirlo - I appreciate the feedback. My turn next :)

[cedar n silky]

Hi Cedar,

Yep, bearings sorted thanks. Steep and frustrating learning curve that was. The Stubby hadn't had much use but the bearings depend on running with a load for the grease in them to melt. Suspect it had been run too long without much of a load. So from here on every goblet I turn will be attached to a 40kg redgum carrier :D

Blackwood comes up very well on the lathe. Sometimes you get some crappy grain that's hard to cut clean. 's advice was to use a scraper flat on the rest with a fresh burr.

The Walnut was a real find. Just luck - not seen anything like it for years. Then again you make your own luck by obsessively searching .... that's all I can say ;)

And how's the 175 going? Had a go at a big lump with that outrigger yet?

----------

And thanks Stirlo - I appreciate the feedback. My turn next :)

I'm enjoying the 175, thats for sure. Compared to my old record!!
I have done some smaller stuff, but am debating the height at the moment. I am 6ft tall, and am contemplating wether to pack under the stand before I dynabolt it to the floor! The centre of the drives at the moment is 1200mm, and am wondering if I should add 50-75 mm timber blocks, before I commit to dyna bolting. It just feels a touch low for long term comfort, and the "old back ait what it used to be"!! I did put a fair lump on, and it wanted to bounce around the w/shop a bit, so bolting her down would be good!
Your thoughts on lathe heights would be appreciated.:)

[rsser]

Yeah, bolting her down will make a diff and I'd suggest that apart from packing you include a good size piece of waffle mat from Clark rubber to dampen the harmonics.

As for height, a pro opinion I got recommended that the centre should be as high as the elbow of the arm you normally hold the tool with when that arm is crossed over your chest with the fingers curved over your shoulder.

That said, a number of turners 'of a certain age' and with dodgy backs like mine and yours report going higher works well.

And if you're planning on using packing anyway you can experiment as long as your anchors are long enough.

Best of luck!

[cedar n silky]

Yeah, bolting her down will make a diff and I'd suggest that apart from packing you include a good size piece of waffle mat from Clark rubber to dampen the harmonics.

As for height, a pro opinion I got recommended that the centre should be as high as the elbow of the arm you normally hold the tool with when that arm is crossed over your chest with the fingers curved over your shoulder.

That said, a number of turners 'of a certain age' and with dodgy backs like mine and yours report going higher works well.

And if you're planning on using packing anyway you can experiment as long as your anchors are long enough.

Best of luck!
Thanks Ern.
After I sent the last post, I realised that I can't go too high, or I'll make that outrigger tool rest set up obsolete, short of adding more steel to that big steel post . I don't think sitting it on top of a brick will work? :eek:
Anyhow I will check out the pro recomendation tommorow and see where I stand. Better go stoke the fire. Cheers -Tony:)

[rsser]

Yeah, that's a point.

Can you remount the bracket for the outrigger?

And how much latitude does the tool rest shank give you?

Fire eh ... bit cold up in the highlands? We could do with some of it down here - booked in for five days cross country skiing next week and it's the worst season in years - snowline is about 1700 m for heaven's sake!

[Auzzie turner]

Its nice and cold here

[Tassie Boy]

Same here Ern we are booked in for some skiing at Hotham in September but somehow i dont think were going anymore!!! bloody weather.. Its plenty cold enought just not enough moisture...oo well..Thant gives me a free week to do some turning!!
Nice work on the bowls too...
Cheers

[rsser]

Hey Dylan,

if you're down-hilling - what we chook-footers call yo-yoing ;-} - Sept should be OK. Man-made snow on the runs, bit of fresh from the machines in the morning, really fast, then turning into porridge in the afternoons, really slow!

In any case, there's always enough snow somewhere to fall over in.

[Caveman]

Hey Ern,
Really like the latest turnings - in particular the walnut stump piece - real nice.
All this talk about snow makes me feel like putting another layer on - it's down to about 19'c (at 12:45) and thats our winter days (thats at 1,500m.a.s.l.) - were all complaining bitterly! I guess we have no excuse.

[Tassie Boy]

I do both .. X-country and downhill...
Gotta prefer downhill cause of the speed!!haha
Yer but man made just doesnt feel the same as the fresh stuff!!
Cheers..

[Terry B]

Fire every night but no snow for years here. I took the attached photo a few weeks ago at about 8am. The best hoar frost I have seen. This is the reason that wood turning in a shed takes proirity over astronomy in the open!

[cedar n silky]

Fire every night but no snow for years here. I took the attached photo a few weeks ago at about 8am. The best hoar frost I have seen. This is the reason that wood turning in a shed takes proirity over astronomy in the open!
Hi Terry. I saved the photo, cause no one beleives me when I say it was
-18 a few weeks ago West of the rage around Armidale/ Tenterfeild!!:eek:
I've been out there when it was Bl--dy near that, and you appreciate fleecy underwear, and a good log fire, especially early in the morning!;)

[Terry B]

It has been pretty cold. There had been a big fog the night before I took the photo and all the trees looked the same. It was quite beautiful (from inside my car). Fortunately my house is surrounded by trees and the photo was taken down the hill a few kms. We have only got down to about -6C at home.
I have a fan heater in the shed but don't need it much and not when there is wood shavings around.

[rsser]

And another...

Spalted something; think it's sassy.

22 x 5.5cm; n/c sanding sealer finish; coat of wax to come.

(Just roughed out that 'horizontal' ptc ... sweet turning timber; many thanks).

[OGYT]

Wonderful bowls, Ern, I really like that bead on the red gum. I also like the foot on the Myrtle.
That foot is sort of like a friend of mine from Georgia, puts on most of his. He leaves the dovetail in, so he can return it later if need be.
Good stuff.
Anxious to see that big chunk finished, too. OOPS! Just read thae rest of the thread.
Those other bowls look real good, too.

[ptc]

Yes Sassafrass.
Ern let me know if you want larger Dia Horizontal

[rsser]

Thanks Al and ptc.

Al I used to do all the bowls with a recess and expanding chuck. Now I turn a stub and then clean and refine it as a foot at the end. In this case in has something of a cove in the vertical to echo the form of the bowl. It's higher than I normally go in order to get more 'lift' to better show the spalting.

[OGYT]

I'm enjoying the 175, thats for sure. Compared to my old record!!
I have done some smaller stuff, but am debating the height at the moment. The centre of the drives at the moment is 1200mm, and am wondering if I should add 50-75 mm timber blocks, before I commit to dyna bolting. It just feels a touch low for long term comfort, and the "old back aint what it used to be"!!
Your thoughts on lathe heights would be appreciated.:)

Cedar, just a comment on lathe height. I'm only 5'10" tall. I raised Old Griz 15cm higher than it came, and that didn't seem high enough. (I have back trouble and shoulder trouble, both)
When I got my Oneway, I put the legs at full extension, and added 7.5cm under each end, making the center height a full 125cm above the floor. Everyone told me not to, that it'd cause shoulder trouble.:eek: I've had it since June 18th, and my back and my shoulders have quit giving me fits.:D If I were you, I'd raise it up and give it a try. You can always put it back down...

[Gil Jones]

Very well done, Ern, all of them!
Fine smooth finish too.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Al I used to do all the bowls with a recess and expanding chuck. Now I turn a stub and then clean and refine it as a foot at the end. In this case in has something of a cove in the vertical to echo the form of the bowl. It's higher than I normally go in order to get more 'lift' to better show the spalting.

Very nice, Ern, is the "spalted something" going to be for food? I'm only asking 'cos you're simply waxing it... and I'm not sure whether spalted anything would be my choice for a food-safe item.

I also prefer a stub to a recess... when I've the depth of blank to manage it, that is. If I have to hot-glue a stub on then I'd rather just go the recess mode, being inherently lazy. :rolleyes: I'm wondering if there's any particular reason you switched from one to t'other? I think it gives better holding strength, but that's just my personalobservation... not a claim of fact.

[rsser]

Thanks Gil and Skew. Used a passive rotary sander on this; first time with this tool, and it handled the differing wood densities far better than a powered sander.

Skew: this is my secret weapon... I'll carry it aboard a plane and threaten to eat the airline food crap out of it unless they fly me to Christchurch for two weeks of skiing. I have a beard, have been known to look mad ... whaddy'a reckon?

Thanks for the heads-up tho. This one's strictly for show.

Yes: stub for strength tho Al's right of course; once finished there's no remounting. Well, not without cleaning up the foot again and given that the lump has usually moved that's a PITA.

Tho there's extra effort in it I've headed in this direction because while you can have a recess in a foot, on the odd occasion you'll crack the ring that makes the foot and you typically need a wider foot than looks good, and what the heck, I like to puzzle the buyers. And a recess without the foot obviously gives uneven wall thickness.

That said, with a medium or high density wood you only need 3-4mm depth of recess and around 8-10mm foot width and you've got a fair expansion mount for up to 150mm swing ... all of this generalising from greying grey matter mind ;-} and I think this kind of mount increases bowl flex.

[Caveman]

Hey Ern, lovely turning as usual. Real nice figuring / spalting. Great photo's also.

[cedar n silky]

Cedar, just a comment on lathe height. I'm only 5'10" tall. I raised Old Griz 15cm higher than it came, and that didn't seem high enough. (I have back trouble and shoulder trouble, both)
When I got my Oneway, I put the legs at full extension, and added 7.5cm under each end, making the center height a full 125cm above the floor. Everyone told me not to, that it'd cause shoulder trouble.:eek: I've had it since June 18th, and my back and my shoulders have quit giving me fits.:D If I were you, I'd raise it up and give it a try. You can always put it back down...
Thanks OGYT. I am buying the dyna bolts on Monday, and have been playing around with heights_Will take your suggestions on board.:)

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Skew: this is my secret weapon... I'll carry it aboard a plane and threaten to eat the airline food crap out of it unless they fly me to Christchurch for two weeks of skiing. I have a beard, have been known to look mad ... whaddy'a reckon?

:D Just don't stand up and shout "Allah Akbar!" unless you're prepared for more than a fornight's stay at the other end. ;)


Tho there's extra effort in it I've headed in this direction because while you can have a recess in a foot, on the odd occasion you'll crack the ring that makes the foot and you typically need a wider foot than looks good, and what the heck, I like to puzzle the buyers.

That's one of the reasons I first moved away from a recess... much of my stock has shakes, is spalted or otherwise has flaws through it. In expansion mode the stresses on the blank are exaggerated, especially as the walls near completion. It's so damned frustrating when my latest'n'greatest turns frisbee simply 'cos I'd thought "just that little bit more off there and it'll be perfect..."

[TTIT]

The main reason I prefer a stub is that I've never turned right though the bottom when mounted by a stub, but on a recess, well .......:o........

[hughie]

That's one of the reasons I first moved away from a recess... much of my stock has shakes, is spalted or otherwise has flaws through it. In expansion mode the stresses on the blank are exaggerated, especially as the walls near completion. It's so damned frustrating when my latest'n'greatest turns frisbee simply 'cos I'd thought "just that little bit more off there and it'll be perfect..."
[/QUOTE]

Skew,
Bruce Leadbetter has a keyless chuck that self tightens working on a recess. He reckons it can swing 29'' [ 74cm ] with no probs.
Have been tossing up whether to get it or not, at $95AUD its probably worth a punt

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Hughie, I've always been a firm believer in stopping the job every now'n'again to check that the chuck is still tight, so that wasn't a concern... my problem was the lip of the recess breaking away or, almost as often, the bowl splitting in two down a fault line.

Still, for $95... Hmmm... do you know whether this is his expanding faceplate that's used in NSW schools?

[rsser]

same here TTIT - nice big and REELY thin ash bowl and went thru while finish sandding :(

Al, yep, looks like she's saarted spalting - just need to recruit a son to get her mounted

apol for spelling; had an off on the bike todauy; sprained hand the omly damage thankfyully .. cracked engine mount on the Trumpy & the mech is away for 3 weeks ... aaaagh!

[hughie]

Hughie, I've always been a firm believer in stopping the job every now'n'again to check that the chuck is still tight, so that wasn't a concern... my problem was the lip of the recess breaking away or, almost as often, the bowl splitting in two down a fault line.

Still, for $95... Hmmm... do you know whether this is his expanding faceplate that's used in NSW schools?


Skew, Dunno, but he mentioned that the chuck was designed for the school system. It maybe an off shoot of that. :confused:

I agree with your comment breakaways etc, but..... for 95 I thought, well.... I would give it a go. :D ..............ole money bags here..:D
The trouble with it is the m30 thread there aint an easy insert for that on 1'' BSW thread form. Have to make a spigot type adapter :( .
He supplies it with a Forstner bit to produce the correct dia and depth and on the solid timber it should probably be a good thing.

[Cliff Rogers]

... had an off on the bike todauy; sprained hand the omly damage thankfyully .. cracked engine mount on the Trumpy & the mech is away for 3 weeks ... aaaagh!
Struth Ern, ya supposed to be too old for that sheyet.... :(
(the off bit, not the bike ;) )
Hope you heal up sooner than the bike does. :)

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Lathe, bike... what'll make the triple? :eek:

Is the Trumpy an old girl, Ern? I've many fond memories of my old Trident. :)

Hughie, if it's the one I'm thinking of it's well worth that price. Pity about the thread though... I wish more mfr's would go the changeable insert route.

[cedar n silky]

[quote=Skew ChiDAMN!!]Lathe, bike... what'll make the triple? :eek:

Is the Trumpy an old girl, Ern? I've many fond memories of my old Trident. :)
quote]
Yeh is it an oldie Ern? I had an old black Bonneville for quite a few years when I was a bit younger- Wish I'd kept her!. :)

[rsser]

No, one of the new triples, an '04 Sprint. Gem of a motor.

It's the first off in 60k km of hard riding so can't complain. Too old? Feeling it today!

But av age of m/c riders is now just over 40 believe it or not. We're all spending our kids' inheritance ;-}

Funny you should mention 3's Skew: the first was cartwheeling down a gully while trying to ski off piste at Hotham last week. So the run of bad luck had better be over.

[Gil Jones]

I do miss my 650 Trumpet, and I still have the two chromed fuel tank side pieces from my old 1966 Bonneville/TT Special.

[rsser]

Great bike the Bonnie.

I had a 500cc BSA single - not so great.

[ptc]

The last bike i had was an A J S 500 single pot telescopic forks! in 1954.
Broke my leg in 3 places.
now have a metal knee.

[Tassie Boy]

No, one of the new triples, an '04 Sprint. Gem of a motor.

It's the first off in 60k km of hard riding so can't complain. Too old? Feeling it today!

But av age of m/c riders is now just over 40 believe it or not. We're all spending our kids' inheritance ;-}

Funny you should mention 3's Skew: the first was cartwheeling down a gully while trying to ski off piste at Hotham last week. So the run of bad luck had better be over.


mmmm. there is some fine off piste at hotham..
Where were you when you went ass over head?
Their expecting snow tomorow i think??:) we can only hope...
Sorry to hear off your accidents lately..

[rsser]

The last bike i had was an A J S 500 single pot telescopic forks! in 1954.
Broke my leg in 3 places.
now have a metal knee.

Bet that was just from kick starting her!

Tassie Boy - just doing Aust Drift but it was a mix of powder and lumps of ice. Will be skiing the High Plains next week if the snow gods relent. It's pretty poor up there at the moment.

[TTIT]

The last bike i had was an A J S 500 single pot telescopic forks! in 1954.
Broke my leg in 3 places.
now have a metal knee.

Magic stuff PTC!:D My first road bike was the very same rig that I restored from a basket-case to showroom condition in the late 70's. - and as my dear old dad will testify - started first kick! :eek: :) :D Might have been yours eh!?!? Had to sell it to get the Bonneville in '78 which is still the only brand new vehicle I've ever owned - loved that one too! - until I got the Harley in '81 .....

[rsser]

There was a request for a comparo so ...

.......

How does the Stubby 1000 compare with the Vicmarc 175?<o></o>
<o></o>
This is a bit unfair to ask since they're not really in the same league. But they followed each other in the shed so what the heck! <o></o>
<o></o>
The Vicmarc is a well engineered long-bed spindle turning lathe adapted for large faceplate turning by means of a swivel head and an outboard rest. It doesn't take much in the way of bowl size to find that the banjo mounted rest won't reach and the outrigger is needed. This is a very solid attachment that can take a good deal of punishment and with C rests allow you to get up close and personal with the inside of a large bowl. The drawback is that repositioning the post takes a bit of manhandling – its heavy, which is good, but the bracket needs a bit of upward tensioning to eliminate vibration and for some ageing backs that’s a bit of a hazard.<o></o>

The Stubby was designed for both large spindle and faceplate turning from the start allowing a blank of up to a metre in diameter to be turned and 70cm between centres. It achieves this by having a moveable bed - it can be slid back as well as pivoted allowing flexible placement of the tool rest. It has a short bolt-on auxiliary bed that can be attached in several places to allow eg. the working of the outside of a bowl by turns with the inside without rechucking. A second banjo is supplied though not a second tool rest.<o>
</o><o></o>
The standard Vicmarc comes with a 1hp DVS motor and two drive ratios. Running the poly V belt on the larger spindle pulley gives extra torque at 1:3 for heavy cuts over a speed range of 100 to 1100 rpm. To run the faster range at 1:1 for 300 to 3000 rpm means moving the belt to the smaller pulley. That requires the removal of a guard (two wing nuts) and loosening the motor mounts (two nylock nuts) to slacken and reposition the belt.<o>
</o><o></o>
The Stubby is also DVS and has a 2 hp motor. It likewise has two ranges but the high speed will run from zero to 3000 rpm and belt changes require loosening only one lever. It has a movable control box for safety. This is something that the 175 could do with as turning with the outrigger can put you outside easy reach of the controls. (The special 175 has a knee bar for a stop in emergencies, though making up a remote control box for the standard model should be within the capacity of the home turner).<o>
</o><o></o>
The Stubby is a compact design and the downside of that is that there is no bench or stand shelf for your bits and pieces. Even mounting a light is a challenge given the diversity of bed positions. A magnetic base light is almost mandatory but the cheap versions of these only adhere reliably to the machined top and side faces of the beds. The lathe comes standard with a vacuum port so all that is needed for vacuum chucking is a bung to seal the hollow spindle, a 1/4" BSP threaded nipple and a homemade MDF/foam disc mounted to a faceplate. I made a nipple adaptor to connect the 850w shop vac cuff by using the end of a foam-handled bicycle handlebar grip.
<o></o><o></o>
The Stubby is supplied with a cast-iron tool rest with a rounded top and cove underneath which allows you to accurately rough out spindle pieces by running your underside finger down it. It's a bit more prone to parting tool damage however than the steel Vicmarc rest. Its rest shanks are 1" in diameter so all the specialty rests made for the Vicmarc needed replacing in my case.<o>
</o><o></o>
The Stubby has an 8 second ramp-up time to avoid leaving 100kg lumps of wood behind or fixing them irrevocably to the spindle. This is a bit irritating on smaller pieces but is adjustable. One US turner found a solution to the problem of mounting big pieces: a block and tackle mounted on an overhead rail with a climber's harness or car wheel snow chain to sling the wood. There are several large lumps in my 'wood bank' that beckon, one of Ash and one of Silver Birch. I'm going to try the low-tech solution to mounting and call on one of my sons to help in exchange for a feed.<o>
</o><o></o>
For either of these lumps a larger faceplate than is standard will be needed, or maybe it's time to try the Teknatool 130mm faceplate ring on the Titan chuck with tailstock support (advice welcomed on this option).<o>
</o><o></o>
The Stubby is now positioned in the workshop where it will work best (ie. reverse cycle a/c behind me and dust extraction port in front) and the next step was to bolt her to the floor with some rubber waffle mat sandwiched between steel and concrete. Though she weighs about 450kg, bolting down reduces vibration. One inch dynabolts just cracked the concrete so 3” were called for.<o>
</o><o></o>
I’ve posted elsewhere about having to replace the bearings. That was a right royal PITA but if I’d been more patient waiting for advice from Omega in Carrum Downs some pain could have been avoided. The bearings are meant to run under load so that prob. explains why they were trashed on such a young machine.<o>
</o><o></o>
So what’s she like in use apart from that ?<o></o>
<o></o>
Well there’s no swivel head obviously but with the bed fully pushed in mostly I can stand anywhere I like for ease of access: front side, end or even rear side. This has worked well so far in the case of hollowing boxes, vases and pencil jars. She’ll run in reverse without needing a spindle clamp so in principle I can stand front side and cut over the rear.<o>
</o><o></o>
She’s rock solid with eccentric blanks. I like the extra power of the 2hp motor though really haven’t put it to the test. There’s a large 3 way crotch piece of Silver Birch slowly spalting in the back yard which will put the faceplate and long screws into end grain to the test.<o>
</o><o></o>
Having the full rev range available on one pulley means I do a lot more small work at the right speed, as changing the belt on the Vicmarc was a little time-consuming.<o>
</o><o></o>
The remote on/off switch on the Stubby is both convenient and an important safety factor.<o>
</o><o></o>
The cleverness and flexibility of the primary and secondary beds are neat.<o>
</o><o></o>
The biggest market for these machines is the <st1:country-region><st1>US</st1></st1:country-region>. Granted the local prices put them into the range of pro turners but in my view the 750 would be a good investment for a serious amateur. <o>
</o><o></o>
It’s amazing how few good lathes come onto the second hand market (which is where I snapped the Beast up) and there’s a good reason for that: they hold their value, they do what you want of them, and you have to be six foot under before you let any other b*gger near them!<o></o>

[ss_11000]

thanx for that ern, it was a good read :)

[ptc]

TTIT.
Before the AJS I had an Indian with the Gear change
on the side of the tank.
and prior to that A norton Manxman single pot rigid forks.
Also some where in that lot a BSA Bantam.
but the ajs put an end to my bike riding.

[hughie]

I’ve posted elsewhere about having to replace the bearings. That was a right royal PITA but if I’d been more patient waiting for advice from Omega in Carrum Downs some pain could have been avoided. The bearings are meant to run under load so that prob. explains why they were trashed on such a young machine.<O>


Ern,
A couple of questions or three
I am familar with pre-load on bearings. But I am not so sure how your Stubby lost its pre-load and therefore developed stuffed bearings. As I understand it the loading is set at the factory to a predetermined amount. :confused: as per design conditions, usage etc

How are your bearings lubricated? or are they sealed? or do you pump grease in from time to time?

Putting aside money for the moment........:) What, if any, would be the advantages of a 1000 Stubby over your 750 or for that matter vice versa. I know I can read the specs and see the difference. But that does not always tell the full story as to using one. </O>

[Gil Jones]

Ern, congrats on the WoW front page with your spalted Sassafras bowl!!

[rsser]

Thanks Gil.

I was surprised frankly, and of course honoured.

[rsser]

Hi Hughie,

Re bearings, I'd been told that the Stubby hadn't had much use, or heavy use, and in speaking to Omega about belt tension their advice was to be sure to 'run the lathe under load' so that the bearings warmed up and the grease flowed.

They're ball bearings, sealed, and the inboard one is a double race. Not being a tech type, that's all I know!

As for 750/1000 diffs, AFAIK the motor and electronics are the same, ditto the principle of moving bed(s); only the swing differs from memory. So if you don't need to turn metre diam platters or the like the 750 should be plenty. In use the 1000 is heavier overall and may handle irregular lumps better - but most US users run the 750 and it appears to handle some pretty huge pieces.

Omega offer some degree of customisation btw - both my teachers put in special orders but I couldn't tell you what differences they wanted.

Hope this helps.

[hughie]

Hi Ern, Thanks for the follow up, always appreciated.

[rowie]

Where did you dig up the Walnut stump burl from?:eek: Did you buy it from OS, or source it locally, and if you buy timber like that, what would you pay?? (just out of interest!) Cheers:)
silky, i sold ern the walnut burl($35, i got it from rare woods in abbotsford 4 years ago),sassafras,myrtle, blackwood, after i cut my little finger off:o (had to pay the mortgage somehow:( )
i guess my bad luck was ''good luck'' for ern:rolleyes:
the blanks came up a treat, well done ern:cool:

[Little Festo]

Hello Ern,

Just ordered my Stubby (1000) yesterday. Delivery will coincide with the construction of my new workshop. I have just shifted from Darwin to Pomona, a lovely little house on a hill. Wanted a stubby for years, also a "proper" workshop - with a view. I have a Vicmarc 300, which I'll keep as a spare/extra lathe.

I haven't been turning much lately, approx 3 months, but will be getting stuck in next week from my tempory workshop.

have to be off to watch my team (possibly) get a flogging, perennial optimist.

All the best - Peter

[ptc]

Festo welcome back.

[rsser]

Congrats Festo.

Block and tackle or engine hoist on your shopping list?

FYI: http://140.247.184.244/bin/view/stubby