Silky Oak glue up.

[ozwinner]

Hi Guys
I am going to glue up some Silky Oak with PVA, it feels waxy, is there a method for glueing this stuff?
Do I have to wipe it with metho or something to remove the waxy feel?

Thanks

And no, sorry, I didnt do a search cause Im slack....

Al http://www.ubeaut.biz/waving.gif

[CameronPotter]

If in doubt give it an acetone wipe is what I have been told. This comes from building laminated longbows (and you can't stress glue much more than that).

:D

Cam

[ozwinner]

Thanks Cam, now Ill have to go buy some acetone.

Al :)

[mic-d]

Hi Guys
I am going to glue up some Silky Oak with PVA,

Al http://www.ubeaut.biz/waving.gif
I bet it'll be bondcrete:D
Cheers
Michael

[CameronPotter]

Thanks Cam, now Ill have to go buy some acetone.

Al :)

My pleasure.

[IanW]

Oz - when you say Silky Oak, is it stuff you've acquired locally, i.e. is it Grevillea robusta? If so, then I've had no end of problems glueing the stuff with PVA. After a year or two, the glue turns powdery, and naturally enough doesn't hold the bits together any more. I've tried various methods as advised here and elsewhere, but it doesn't seem to make much difference. Melamine glue seems to be ok, and hide glue hasn't let me down yet.

The northern silky oak (Cardwellia) which is wot you get when you buy SO from your favourite timber merchant, is not as bad, but I have had the odd joint do the same thing with that stuff, too. I presume it's chemicals in the wood that react with the glue, or prevent it from esterifying properly. G. robusta certainly has that soapy feel to it when you work with it - probably 'saponins', and they may be the villain. Are there any chemists out there who can enlighten us, and give some rational advice on pretreatments that might help????

Haven't tried 'boncrete'....;)
Cheers,

[Iain]

Al, Glue, must have busted his nailgun:rolleyes:

[ozwinner]

has that soapy feel to it when you work with it - probably 'saponins', and they may be the villain. Are there any chemists out there who can enlighten us, and give some rational advice on pretreatments that might help????

Haven't tried 'boncrete'....;)
Cheers,

Yep it has the waxy/soapy feel to it.
I bought it at the Melb WWS 3 years ago, so it should be dry. :p
The fella I bought it off came from NSW, I think.

Ive got some hide glue too.

Al :)

[Lignum]

Their is a school of thought on some oily timbers like silky oak and teak that acetone and the like will appear to take the surface oil off, but will also draw more oil to the surface. I worked for a mob who made heaps of furniture out of teak and their practice just prior to glueing was to scrape the area first. They didnt use any solvents for that reason:)

[Iain]

I recall that there used to be a product on the market designed for applying to cedar window frames prior to painting, it seemed that if this wasn't applied the paint would flake and peel after a few months.
Can't recall what it was called, possible it was an acetone type product, I never used it but a painter told me about it.

[Auld Bassoon]

If SO is like Teak, then in boat-building projects, I've found that expoxy (eg West System) is the only reasonably sure-fire way of getting the wood to bond - and planing or sanding the surface just prior to glue-up helps a lot too.

[CameronPotter]

Yeah, I have found that epoxy works as the most reliable glue too...

[ozwinner]

Im going to build a standard lamp so if it falls apart on the high seas, no one will be killed.

Al :p :D