Do you own a Hammer N4400 bandsaw [Archive]

Zed

16th May 2006, 03:24 PM

Ive read various reviews. the hammer only has 2.5hp. the Carbatec can have up to 3hp if you go to the 21inch. Not sure of jet, Cast or machined iron wheels with many spindles are the go I understand after reading doco as the wheel spins truer and less sideways in the blade. the thrust bearing on the carbatecs could be better (ie in another plane).

I read a review in AWR a while back that compared the JET, the Carbatech & the Holz - holz rated for industrial, the Carbatech on safety & the Jet for home. Go to the wood show and do the homework on site. thats teh go (thats what I intend to do anyway)

note - the hammer is a good unit - no question - dont get me wrong....

cheers

Waldo

16th May 2006, 05:23 PM

G'day,

Onya Zed! Someone willing to stand up and say that GMC, Ozito and Ryobi are carp.

(but I've got a Ryobi drop saw which is tough as nails and over 20years old and never missed a beat - they must've built 'em better back when I was a little fella.)

FlyingDuck

16th May 2006, 05:29 PM

Groggy

16th May 2006, 05:50 PM

Waldo, presuming you meant crap, don't we all say this already, many times a day? I could tell you so many stories about GMC stuff that I tried out and had to return it would bore you to tears.

But what about the Hammer fellas...I want to sell my 17" 4300 BS and buy the Hammer 4400. Better unit all the way around, especially the motor, wheels, table, trunnions and guides.

FlyingDuck

16th May 2006, 05:58 PM

CameronPotter

16th May 2006, 07:15 PM

The diameter of the wheel determines the maximum width of blade you can use (due to fatiguing from being bent over a smaller radius).

The width of cut due to the size of the wheel is less important I would say.

Cam

FlyingDuck

16th May 2006, 07:41 PM

Potter, I think you may have confused what I was talking about. I was not talking about the blade size, but rather the vertical & horizontal clearances between the blade and the machine.

A192K

16th May 2006, 07:57 PM

hi duck
i saw the hammer saw at brizzy show,it has same wheels as the industrial carbetec range,

it has a weird fence,and a useless mitre slot,(my opinion only) what is it you are paying extra for? shipping from europe,and shipping from asia (as most of the parts would be made there anyway.

i would buy a Jet or a carbatec (actually have 1) before the hammer.

jet are sold to all schools in QLD, they would not go to government if they did not preform.
local agent needs to carry spares for 5 years after the last one is sold.!!!!!
i have no affiliation with any supplier,brand,

now im sure there are fans of the hammer,and im not here to attack there overpriced machines,i just feel that there is better value from taiwan

brisbane saw service has 2 green italian machines (sicar) sitting in their showroom,i have seen them there everday for 2 years,they would have been 2500 retail a while ago,i bet you could do an awesome deal on them today.

anyway just my 2 cents worth

FlyingDuck

16th May 2006, 08:47 PM

Hi A192K, thanks for that very interesting opinion. The Hammer & Felder machines advertise themselves as being 100% made in Austria, but an interesting question does "made" mean just assembled in Austria, and parts from elsewhere. Perhaps Felder can answer this one.

Those sicar bandsaws sound interesting. I'm from Brisbane but have never heard of this shop before. By the sounds of it you walk past there everyday, so maybe you could do me a favour and pop in their and see how much they want for them now. Do you know what size of bandsaw they are.

Have you got the Jet or Carbatec? What size? Any comments about the cons & pros of your machine? What would you buy next etc...

FlyingDuck

16th May 2006, 09:19 PM

I guess one good thing with the Europen machines is that if I want to sell it in 10 years time I think it will hold its value much more than a taiwan machine.

Anybody had any experience trying to sell a carbatec or hafco machine? I guess the Jets would also hold their value a bit more becuase of their name.

bloggs1968

16th May 2006, 10:17 PM

hey Flying duck,

I went through this a while ago myself and had a good look at the carbatec 21" - bit "tinny" and the guide post had too much movement for my liking. I have a Jet 14" and was going to go the Jet 18 or 20" as the quality is better than carbatec but I actually went with an Agazanni and absolutely love it. Solid construction, smooth, powerful and bloody accurate. I got mine from For Wood Tools in WA ( no afiliation etc). For a bit more dough, the Agazanni leaves the other cheaper ones for dead.

just my 2 bobs worth.

AD

FlyingDuck

16th May 2006, 10:39 PM

Thanks for the 2 bobs blogs. Sounds like another one I shoud check out. What's your model and size?

Will have to do some research and find out where this one is sold in Brisbane. Any other European brands I should be considering?

FlyingDuck

16th May 2006, 10:48 PM

China

17th May 2006, 12:17 AM

Have a look at the Woodfast BS500 300mm depth of cut, table 630x480, tension indicator (for those who want one)

FlyingDuck

17th May 2006, 01:03 AM

China, who sells the Woodfast machinery?

bloggs1968

17th May 2006, 06:19 AM

Blogs, just had a look at your post about your bandsaw, what a bewdy. How much did it cost, and how much was the shipping? Do you have a link to their web site at all?

I am also after a jointer & tablesaw & notice you have the Jet stuff - any comment here? I can't deicde over the Carbatec CTJ-350, Jet 8CS and Powermatic 60A jointer. Instinct would tell me to go with the Powermatic, but have read a lot of reviews from USA, and the Carbatec (ie. Delta 37-350A) seems to rate higher than the Powermatic.

What are you impressions of that Jet jointer & supersaw you got there?

Flying duck,

The model of bandsaw is a Rapid 600 ( or 24") in the old book. It was only a couple of hundred extra than the 21" at $3.9K plus $450 in freight. This was the three phase 4hp model. I'm not sure if these guys have a web site, they had to send me a brochure by snail mail.

With regards to the Jet gear, the little 6" jointer does everything I ask of it and was ready to go pretty much out of the box. It too is accurate, holds it's settings and has not given me any grief.

As far as the super saw goes, it is a good saw, accurate fence and my only 2 complaints are that dust extraction whilst ok is not fantastic ( I could improve it but have to find the time) and also you have to slow down a bit when ripping big pieces of hardwoodat the limits of the saw. I do most of my big ripping on the bandsaw - I find it easier and safer.

I f I had to buy again, I'd still buy the super saw but would probably upgrade the 6" jointer to 8" - mainly in case I ever needed it in the future but for what I am doing it is fine.

As far as reliability of the Jet gear, I have had 1 breakdown in 2 years and that was a broken drive sprocket on my thicknesser which Gary Pye air bagged a replacement next day.

Hope this helps

FlyingDuck

17th May 2006, 11:03 AM

HI blogs, thanks for the feedback. Very interesting.

Felder

17th May 2006, 11:36 AM

Treading softly, softly......

Obviously everyone here knows I have a barrow to push. I have abstained from posting in this thread as I believe it would be improper of me to start spruiking the merits of my particular band saw when Flying Duck is asking for opinions from those who have nothing to gain from offering their opinions. It is only because of this comment;

The Hammer & Felder machines advertise themselves as being 100% made in Austria, but an interesting question does "made" mean just assembled in Austria, and parts from elsewhere. Perhaps Felder can answer this one.

that I have decided to join in to clear the air. I have contacted Flying Duck by PM to make sure that is OK with him, and he is fine by it.

So enough of the disclaimers.....

All Felder and Hammer band saws are actually made by a reputable Italian company and built to Felder / Hammer specifications. They are then sent to the Austrian factory where they are quality checked. The latest advertising material for the band saws now state that they are "100% European Made" rather than "Austrian Made".

Hope this helps.

CameronPotter

17th May 2006, 01:00 PM

Potter, I think you may have confused what I was talking about. I was not talking about the blade size, but rather the vertical & horizontal clearances between the blade and the machine.

If you re-read my post, you will see that I did understand what you were saying (I thought the same thing when I started looking), but I read in several places that the most important thing about a big wheel is that it puts less tress on your blade, allowing for wider blades. They said that this was a higher priority than a wide cutting throat as most of the time you only need to cut one side of the board (and this can stick out the other side).

I just thought that would be something to keep in mind. I found a really useful PDF on a review of many of the different bandsaws, but I can't find it any more. :( It came from an American woodie magazine. It said everything to look for.

Cam

FlyingDuck

17th May 2006, 01:14 PM

Hi Cam, that's an interesting idea - placing the workpiece on the outside fo the saw rather than inside - never thought about doing that.

Let us know if you find that pdf

Here is a link to a review on the Agazzani machine (http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/agazzani18.shtml)I found.

LuckyDuck

17th May 2006, 02:58 PM

FlyingDuck and others:

I have investigated bandsaws at some length and read with interest the discussions about the various options for bandsaws. As it often does, price is really the differentiating issue when it comes to deciding on bandsaws. But here is my two-cents worth:

The Carbatec and Jet bandsaws are extremely good value for money. They perform reasonably well and I have used the Carbatec 18" extensively. But I have always wanted a heavier, more precise machine, with more grunt and better blade guides.

Thus, I just bought the FELDER FB540 Industrial bandsaw with a 3phase 3hp S1 rated motor. It cost $5000 and is NOT good value for money. It is too expensive. However, I bought it because it was the best bandsaw I could find, that would fit in my 2.4m high shop, for any amount of money. The serie 700 FELDER FB500 is their non industrial saw which sells for the same price as the Agazanni Rapid 600 (about $4000). It is a magnificent saw and beats Carbatec and Jet anyday, in my humble opinion of course!

FlyingDuck, no one has mentioned the Meber saws which were my second choice. The SR600 is a beautiful machine, and also made by the same unnamed Italian company that makes Felder saws (a.k.a. SCM group). But the Meber is not as well designed; the upper blade guard is not as beefy; the cast iron table is not as heavy; the motor is not as highly rated; etc. etc. I beat the Meber guys down to $3900 but this was not incentive enough to purchase it.

Unfortunately I could not see the Agazanni Rapid (none in Brisbane that I know of) and so have no opinion on them.

The new woodfast, in my opinion, is nothing compared to the old ones (the ones we had in high school). But I have not seen the new ones in the flesh. Does anyone have one? What is it like.

So it comes down to money... warm regards, LuckyDuck

FlyingDuck

18th May 2006, 01:23 AM

Hi Lucky, this is Flying, duck that is. Are we related?

Thanks for your input. Do you or anybody else know of anyone selling the Meber, Woodfast or Agazzani bandsaws in Brisbane? I am finding it very hard to get any info on these European bandsaws. If it wasn't for this forum I wouldn't have even known that they were available in Australia at all. Maybe they advertise in Australian wood magazines, but being based overseas at the moment I don't get to read any of these.

bloggs1968

18th May 2006, 07:30 AM

Hey Flying,

I just had a look at Gregory Machinery and they still have a Meber 600 for sale see http://esvc001273.wic005u.server-web.com/used_machinery/saws/bandsaws/bandsaws_.htm. This machine was for sale earlier on in the year at the same price so you may be able to beat them down. They did mention it was refurbished. You'd be able to compare it with the Jet gear if you go there as well.

Hope this helps.

AD

FlyingDuck

18th May 2006, 09:45 PM

Hi bloggs, thanks for the link, but unfortunately I only got single phase in my shed.

LuckyDuck

18th May 2006, 10:07 PM

FlyingDuck,

Mebers do come in 1 phase... but I guess you would have to order it that way...

FlyingDuck

18th May 2006, 11:42 PM

LuckyDuck, sounds like you have experience with both the Hammer N4400 & the Felder FB500 - would you pay the extra $1600 for the FB500?

A192K

19th May 2006, 08:31 AM

there is a conversation box on the market that allows you to run 3 p into 1p supply.have a look around you will find it
cheers

Zed

19th May 2006, 09:01 AM

there is a conversation box on the market that allows you to run 3 p into 1p supply.have a look around you will find it
cheers

J &M Ruatner in Melbourne sell them - look up Holz Profi in the Yellow pages.

cheers

LuckyDuck

19th May 2006, 12:25 PM

LuckyDuck, sounds like you have experience with both the Hammer N4400 & the Felder FB500 - would you pay the extra $1600 for the FB500?

I've not actually turned on either machine and used them. As I said previously though, I have had a fair amount of experience on the Carbatec 18" saw. Having said that, I have been researching bandsaws for months, including the N4400 and the Felder FB500, and I have inspected both closely.

Regarding specifications, and inspection, the Felder FB500 is absolutely worth the extra money. The size and finish of the trunnion, table, fence, upper and lower blade guides, etc. are superb. And the FB500 has a much better motor.

If you are interested in the FB500, I know that FELDER queensland had a "shop soiled" machine in storage at Springwood, as of February 2006. I looked the unit over several times and didn't buy it only because I stepped up to the FB540 industrial unit. Derek Wagner, the Queensland Felder rep, was able to give a significant discount on the machine. I don't know what they mean by "shop soiled" as the machine I looked at was in near perfect condition (ok, I could imagine some very light rusting on the table)...

Derek's number is 0407 447 964 (mobile); 07 5543 5599 (office). Regards LuckyDuck (and no, I don't have any FELDER connections!) :)

LuckyDuck

19th May 2006, 12:31 PM

One more thing: If you had the money, I think it is quite easy to justify purchasing the N4400 over Taiwanese or Chinese counterparts. While the Hammer bandsaw is slightly smaller, the finish of the machine, and motor quality alone is worth the price. One of my simple tests for how the machine will work is to squat beside the saw and virtually hang off the saw table. The Hammer "sagged" MUCH less than any of the Carbatec models I examined at the timber show last weekend. Likewise, give the upper blade guide assembly a really good push for and aft (simulating the pressure it would receive in resawing). Again, the Hammer won hands down.

When it comes to the FB500, I think it is slightly harder to justify the price differential between it and the N4400. It probably comes down to personal philosophical views about tools (i.e. do I want something that will do the job; or do I want the very best I can afford...), and just how much it hurts to ekk out the extra money from the wife...

Regards, LuckyDuck

FlyingDuck

19th May 2006, 04:15 PM

HI A192K, do you know of somebody in Brisbane selling these? What are they worth.

LuckyDuck, thanks for the comments again - apreciate it mate.

A192K

19th May 2006, 08:07 PM

J &M Ruatner in Melbourne sell them - look up Holz Profi in the Yellow pages
try there as zen said,

cheers

A192K

19th May 2006, 08:11 PM

Australia
Phase Change Converters
12 Drovers Place
PAKENHAM VIC 3810
email [email protected] ([email protected])
Sales Phone: 1300 137 510 or 03 5941 6111
Fax: 03 5941 5888

sorry read last one wrong

Greg Q

19th May 2006, 09:06 PM

You can also make your own...look up 'rotary phase converter' on Google. All you need is a beefy three phase motor from ebay, a box of capacitors and a willful DIY attitude. On the other hand, this may be illegal unless you are a licenced electricial, who knows?

The other option is a VFD, or variable frequency drive. If you go this route you can also get variable motor speed as a bonus. eBay often has one. These are three phase devices, but will all work with single phase input. You need to derate by around a third to allow for the losses when converting.

I think that Hans Rauter sold his converter business a while ago, but he's worth ringing to find out.

The Trading Post often has an ad. for these converters. The rotary ones all work the same way, so don't be too swayed by claims to the contrary.

FlyingDuck

21st May 2006, 05:40 PM

After having read all the pros and cons of cheaper Asian bandsaws versus the European models, I have decided to go for either the Agazzani 600, Felder FB600 or Meber 600. All seem to be available in Australia and in the $4000 price bracket.

Would like to hear from readers which one they would choose if given the choice, and why.

Also would like to hear from present owners of these machines if they are happy with their choices.

bloggs1968

21st May 2006, 08:06 PM

Flying,

I own the Aga 600 and have had it for a few months now. I put in in my workshop to supplement a smaller Jet 14 ( I am a professional wooden boatbuilder). So far I reckon I have put a few thousand super through it and it is great. It cuts very straight and I reckon that the european blade guides support the blade better than the US ones ( personal opinion but I have both and prefer the euro). The guides are easily adjusted with no tools and blade changes are so quick and simple. I was going to spend quite a few hours setting this saw up but I thought I would try it first and I haven't touched it since.

It cuts beautifully thin veneers and eats big flitches up too.

Foot brake is excellent. Recently had to use it in anger resawing a large wet huon crook when the piece moved and the blade ( 1 1/2" stellite tipped) jammed. Stops very quickly.

Only things that are a bit different to other saws are;

1. the on off switch is a bit different to my other machines but easy to use ( it is a sequence of two switches, one to power the on off and another to actually get the blade spinning)

2. Table tilt is only 20 degrees. This could easily be modified by removing a guard under the table.

3. The blade is guarded extremely well with a small perspex window just in front of the upper guide assembly. Sometimes when the light is right, a reflection of a pencil line that you are following appears and you have to double check you are on the right line

4. No mitre slot in table but I don't really use one so it didn't bother me.

5. Fence is solid but could be improved slightly to be more user friendly

Where I was previously, we put in a new Leda 24" saw and it was like chalk and cheese to the aga.

My only complaint is dust extraction. It is good for a bandsaw ( 2 x 4" ports) but the cabinet needs a bit of sealing rubber to improve it.

If you need some close up pics let me know and I'll email you some.

Hope this helps

AD

Greg Q

22nd May 2006, 12:02 AM

I have a Meber 600 that's about 15 years old and I think it a fine thing-getting it at auction for a good price was a sweetener for me too. I looked at Agazanni last year and was going to buy one before I found this Meber. In the group you are considering I think it might just boil down to price and your relationship with the dealer. All of these are high end saws with similar specs, all made in the same small section of the Po valley in Italy.

I like Felder equipment, and have one of their combination machines. I would have certainly been open to an FB series saw as well. Felder sells a rail kit that you can fit to their saw tables, allowing the coupling of any of their extension tables. I have this installed on my bandsaw, and can easily clip on a 1 meter extension in (for example) the outfeed path, allowing one man resawing of long boards without having to mess with roller stands.

The only other option that springs to mind is possibly finding an older cast iron machine and doing a bearing, guides and drive belt replacement. Some of those old saws are remarkably smooth and accurate machines.

Greg

FlyingDuck

22nd May 2006, 08:28 PM

Many thanks bloggs & gregoryq for your replies. Bloggs, yes I would like to see those pictures, as I have never seen an Agazzani saw in the flesh before.

bloggs1968

23rd May 2006, 09:53 PM

Ok Flying,

here we go with the pics.

bloggs1968

23rd May 2006, 09:54 PM

and some more

bloggs1968

23rd May 2006, 09:55 PM

and finally

FlyingDuck

23rd May 2006, 11:09 PM

HI bloggs, thanks for the photos. I can now compare this machine to the others.

I recently saw the N4400 , but it was a bit of dissapointment in terms of its table size and the distance between the front of the table and the blade. This is where you would rest the work piece as it is being fed into the saw, and in my opinion is too small. The table size is 22.5" x 16.5", and is great lengthwise as it runs right up to the throat, but just too small widthwise to give adequate support for infeed of long pieces.

The Jet 18" table in comparison is 19" x 19", and is better widthwise and allows for plenty of area for infeed, but does stop short of the throat a bit - easy to correct by inserting a piece of plywood or the like. I think the Hammer people have got it wrong by having a large table area to the left of the blade, and only a very small area in front. You would have to set up some sort of infeed table to be of any use. If only the length of the N4400 table was combined with the width of the Jet, I would have found my perfect machine.

Can anybody with a Hammer N4400 comment on their experiences with the table size?

Also have now seen the Meber 600, and thought it was a top machine - very heavy duty.

Luckyduck, if you read this, sounds like you went through a few months ago exactly what I am doing at the moment. How did you manage to get the Ron Mack guy down to $3900 for the SR600? (was this including GST?). He wants $4950 incl. GST for it now.

FlyingDuck

23rd May 2006, 11:33 PM

Bloggs, why have you got that blue duct tape around the handle near the motor?

bloggs1968

24th May 2006, 07:31 AM

Flying,

The tape is around the table tilt lever opening. The top dust port is in the same internal compartment and I thought I could improve the suction by taping it off. I haven't yet fully sealed the cabinet so I can't comment on it yet. There was just a roll of tape sitting on the bandsaw table one morining so I thought I'd stick some on.

I took some measurements for you too.

height overall - 2130
Width overall - 1120
Depth overall - 780
Table size 590 deep x 810 wide
Table height from floor - 910

I have the saw sitting on two hardwood bearers 45 high but these measurements do not include those. Table height wise it is really good. I use roller stands ( easy to make heavy duty ones) as we are putting up to 6m+ stock through.

The specs for the saw only say up to 1 1/4" blade but the guys at for wood advised it will take an 1 1/2" blade which I use exclusively for resawing and it is no problem.

Any more queries give me a yell.

regard,

AD

FlyingDuck

24th May 2006, 08:30 AM

Hi bloggs, thanks again. The Agazzani sounds like a great machine, just wish I could see one in the flesh before purchasing.

Another measurement I would be interested in is the distance from the front of the table edge to the front of the blade.

Did you have any luck in bargaining the price with For Wood? Was it someone called Francis you were dealing with?

FlyingDuck

24th May 2006, 08:51 AM

Hi bloggs, another question. When ripping, do you just use the fence, or install some sort of vertical pole guide? Is that a solid cast iron fence?

LuckyDuck

24th May 2006, 11:32 AM

Flyingduck,

With regard to bargaining, I played fairly hardball with David Sharp (QLD rep for Ron Mack). I told him I wanted a high end machine. That I had the money to buy a high end machine. That I was going to purchase either the Meber or the Felder bandsaw. This kind of approach lets reps know that I am not wasting their time. Initially, David offered the Meber SR600 for $4500 (GST incl.) and agreed to waive the freight costs (which are fairly considerable from Perth to Brisbane). I stated that I felt the FELDER was a better machine (of course, the FELDER does cost more), and noted that the Meber did not come standard with a worm drive mechanism to raise and lower the upper blade guide. I asked David to sharpen his offer. After much calculator punching :rolleyes: David made a final offer of $3950 (GST incl.) and included the upgraded raising and lowering mechanism. This was back in February. I have no idea if David still has the saw here in Brisbane, or whether prices have gone up or what? But anyone who wants that saw ought to be able to beat David down to $3950 again!

Regards, LuckyDuck

bloggs1968

24th May 2006, 10:35 PM

Hi bloggs, another question. When ripping, do you just use the fence, or install some sort of vertical pole guide? Is that a solid cast iron fence?

Hey Flying,

Sounds like you are close to a decision. The fence is only aluminium but a substantial casting. It was easy to add a higher ply fence for resawing tall stuff.

Will advise tomorrow re distance between front of table and blade but is is about half way.

regards,

AD

bloggs1968

25th May 2006, 10:18 PM

Flying,

230mm from front of table to blade.

regards,

AD

Greg Q

25th May 2006, 10:49 PM

Hey Flying...

Here's a picture of the outfeed side of my saw, showing the "F-rails" that I added to allow the use of Felder accessory tables. The table shown is 500mm
long, they have longer ones. With the 1 M outfeed side table fixed, I can concentrate on the infeed side, and have no difficulty with 3 Metre + boards.

Greg

eddie the eagle

5th June 2006, 10:11 PM

I recently saw the N4400 , but it was a bit of dissapointment in terms of its table size and the distance between the front of the table and the blade. This is where you would rest the work piece as it is being fed into the saw, and in my opinion is too small. The table size is 22.5" x 16.5", and is great lengthwise as it runs right up to the throat, but just too small widthwise to give adequate support for infeed of long pieces.
If only the length of the N4400 table was combined with the width of the Jet, I would have found my perfect machine.

Can anybody with a Hammer N4400 comment on their experiences with the table size?
.

Hi Duck,

I've had one since March - see comments in 'what did you buy at the sydney wood show' thread.

I haven't had a problem with the table yet, and I've had 6' boards standing on edge being resawn in the machine. Resaw height is 270mm, by the way.

Cheers,

eddie

FlyingDuck

6th June 2006, 10:15 PM

Hi eddie

So you have no problems with the table size at all? This is the only thing putting me off. Did you get a table extension at all?

eddie the eagle

7th June 2006, 09:58 PM

Hi Flying,

No problems so far for me, 'but your mileage may vary,' as they say - if I had a piece so long so I couldn't cut it safely, I'd setup a roller stand in the appropriate locations.

Good luck in the decision.

eddie

Hammer GO

4th January 2018, 02:47 AM

I want to saw up logs with the bandsaw, and was looking at an 18" or 21" unit, but the Hammer is only 16.5".

I guess if you have a round log you are limited by the veritcal cutting capacity anyhow. ie. It is only 12", so it doesn't make any difference if horizonal cutting capacity is 16.5" or 21" anyhow, becuase you can't use it.

Hi Guys, I find that if you offset a round log to use the RIGHT HAND mitre track, the upper log curvature gives you slightly more headroom. That is, the curve drops to left to clear that infernal blade tension wheel. I've resawed some hard old Silky Oak & most outback hardwoods without trouble. Only ever found one wood a bi metal blade couldn't cut, Hammer tore away jamming only a axe could chip it. PS Had the top end Laguna 17 inch & unimpressed in many ways compared to the Hammer so sold the Laguna. If considering a large bandsaw purchase my advice would be don't get too hung up on brand- most Carbatec, Jet etc saws work these days, the Hammer simply has the raw power. Other members notes about top thrust bearings getting scored etc are all correct but hey its a cheap consumable part