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CameronPotter
19th May 2006, 10:59 AM
Hi all,

I have a set of bowls roughed turned and this time rather than painting them, I made up a bucket of the solution. I used 4 litres of metho and 4 litres of concentrated dishwashing liquid (homebrand). Out of interest, that is 16 of the little bottles it comes in. I must have looked like a weirdo buying it...

Anyway, I roughed turned a bowl from:

Apricot
Sassafras
Tea Tree
Eucalytpus

When I started, the solution was a pale yellow colour. Now it is quite a dark brown colour, so be careful. I suspect that this comes from two sources, the bark on the apricot and the tea tree tannins. (The solution was turning dark before I put the tea tree in - otherwise I would have assume that was it alone).

Anyway, the eucalyptus appears to have darkened slightly, the tea tree is slightly darker, the sassy seems quite a bit darker and the apricot (palest wood) seems unaffected.

Mind you, they were all wet when I pull them out, so after drying they might change colour again.

It seems that the colour change varies between woods.

Anyway, I will clean these up in about a week and let you know the outcomes. At present they are wrapped in paper out of the wind and sun drying slowly (hopefully).

Cam

PAH1
19th May 2006, 01:16 PM
Hi Cam

Interesting to note the change in emphasis of your technique, from finishing now to drying quickly. Mind you though anything that could reliably dry fruit wood and banksia would be a real boon. Banksia is the only thing that I know that checks internally, while flowering plum sapwood distorts so much it is impossible to get the heartwood to remain intact if there is any sapwood at all. I tried straight metho on banskia and was not so impressed. I still think 50% glycerol would be worth a go since it is effective with redgum.

Cliff Rogers
19th May 2006, 01:48 PM
Hey Cam, how long do you leave it in the solution?

CameronPotter
19th May 2006, 02:37 PM
Well, it was always meant to be used for drying wood.

My previous attempts used 50/50 acetone and conc. detergent. I simply painted it on thickly and left it a week.

However, the apricot bowl I tried this with last time cracked slightly across the pith.

None of the rest of the bowls have cracked and they move only a very small amount.

To try to improve the outcome slightly I have left these in the solution for about 5 days and I will leave them for a week or two to dry.

The bowls coming out of the solution had not warped at all (by visual inspection).

I hope that they don't muck up as I think that so far they are probably my best work.

Cam

ribot
20th May 2006, 11:11 AM
Don't know if this is of any use.
I think that the objective is to remove sap as I was lead to believe that sap is the cause of splitting.(Amongst other reasons)

Detergent or soap works because the soap particles attract the dirt, grime, fat, etc particles and takes them away from the surface you are cleaning. (In the washing up, anyway)

Therefore I would assume that the detergent removes sap the same way it removes fat and grime from the washing up.

Hope that makes sense and might be useful to someone.


Just an aside, I have heard that detergent is an excellent way to bend timber.
Just soak it for awhile and eventually it will bend like spaghetti.
I have'nt tried this , just read it somewhere.

CameronPotter
21st May 2006, 09:02 PM
I thought that it was actually trying to replace the water with the detergent particles.

Anyway, you may be right about the sap?

thanks for the input

Cam

Skew ChiDAMN!!
22nd May 2006, 09:28 AM
And I was under the impression that suitable LDD's were hygroscopic. I say suitable, 'cos not all LDD's work; as I understand things it has to be a concentrate and even then I've found a couple that just don't work.

Here's an excerpt from one of my references, discussing detergents:

These have a lower alkalinity than trisodium phosphate. The commonly used complex phosphate are:
Tetrasodium pyrophosphate Na4P2O7 Sodium tripolyphosphate Na5P3O10 Sodium tetraphosphate Na6P4O13 (hygroscopic) Sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO3)6 (hygroscopic)

Tetrasodium pyrophosphate is the more alkaline, alkalinity reducing on descending order. They produce metallic complexes with metallic ions. This can be written ionically as Na2(MgP2O7). This, the magnesium ion in this instance is inactivated, or sequestered. The product formed does not precipitate from solution.

Tetrasodium pyrophosphate is best for magnesium ions, and sodium hexametaphosphate is best for calcium ions. Sodium tripolyphosphate lies in between.

All complex phosphates enhance the detergency of soap type detergents. If a piece of cloth has imbedded in it some calcium in the form of an insoluble calcium soap, the phosphate molecule re-dissolves the calcium, releases sodium which re-combines with the soap molecule, and thereby regenerates useable soap. This is achieved by the sodium combining with the fatty acid anion of the soap molecule.

This “adding to the detergency” is called “synergism”. This means that if we have two ingredients:1 gram/litre DDBS; or 1 gram/litre sodium tripolyphosphate; or 0.5 grams/litre of DDBS and sodium tripolyphosphate;

...it will be found that washing clothes in the third solution will be cleaner and brighter, than if washed in either of the first two.

Complex phosphate can deflocculate and keep in suspension insoluble materials like clay, and emulsify oily materials. Related to this property of deflocculation is the property of petization, this being the property to keep finely divide particles (solids) in suspension, and prevent them of recoagulating. One problem though, is the reversion of complex phosphates back to orthophosphates. This is reasonably rapid for hexametaphosphate, slower for the pyrophosphates. For liquid detergents, tetrapotassium pyrophosphate is favoured, having a solubility of 60% in water.

Phosphate have become out of favour biologically because of eutrophication, but suitable alternatives are hard to find that will completely replace them.

I've always assumed that it's the ones with the hygroscopic phosphates that worked.

Then again, does it really matter? It could be little soap pxies who don't like damp feet for all I care, so long as it works. :D

CameronPotter
22nd May 2006, 10:08 AM
Well, I haven't looked into it that well, but the Homebrand one seems to work (but then that might be more due to the metho)?? :confused:

Whatever the outcome. I am happy so far.

Cam

OGYT
22nd May 2006, 11:27 AM
Cam, don't want to act like I'm butting in, but I've discovered what works for me, with Apricot wood.
I bought 15 bottles of Ivory Dishwashing Liquid (it's clear), and mixed it with 15 bottles of water, making a 50/50 solution. I rough turned from green Apricot: one lidded box 7" dia X 3" tall, One bowl 7" dia X 2.5" tall, and 2 vases 8" tall X 4" wide at the bulge (sizes are approximations).
I turned them all to about 1/2" thickness (while turning, I squirted them occasionally with some of the soap solution to keep the outside wet), and threw them into the soap solution. Left them for 7 days. Took them out of the solution and set them on a wire shelf.
The next day, I began with one of the vases, and finished it to about 1/4" throughout. Because I'm slow (I only had homemade Oland tools), I finished one a day, to include lacquer, and to this date (a year later) not one crack in any of them, and only a very slight movement. The lid on the box still fits, but isn't quite as loose as when I finished it. The bowl is still round, and the vases are beautiful. (My Sweetie loves 'em)
The Apricot has, however, darkened considerably.:confused:
Just my experience with the Apricot. I'll try it with more fruitwoods if I ever get any.... It might work for you, if you want to give it a try.
Someone smarter than me said the soap fills the cells so they don't collapse. Who knows? I couldn't crawl into one to see if it was full or not. :)
OldGuyYoungTurner
Maker of fine mulch.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
22nd May 2006, 11:37 AM
Someone smarter than me said the soap fills the cells so they don't collapse. Who knows? I couldn't crawl into one to see if it was full or not.

It's the soap pixies, I tell ya! ;)

Certainly sounds like it worked well... the last lot of apricot I air-dried checked all the way through, even though I knew 'twas liable to shakes and so tended it with TLC. :(

How much is "considerably"? Any chance of some before/after pics?

CameronPotter
22nd May 2006, 12:19 PM
OGYT, thanks for the input - never be afraid to impart your wisdom, I know that at least one person will be thankful for it, thus it is worth it. :D

Mine hasn't darkened at all and the second batch of stuff hasn't cracked (yet).

My first attempt (which is posted elsewhere) was very similar to yours, but I hadn't made up enough solution to soak it, so instead I wrapped it in wet rags. It did crack (but only very slightly) after I took it out of the rags. Shedhand has it now (another guy on the forums) and I think that he and his wife are happy with it.

By the way, with your successes - did yours have the pith running through it? Mine did (which is why it cracked I think). It also moved a little, but only on the almost sharp lip of the bowl.

Anyway, I am happy with the results I am getting so far and I think that adding the detergent to metho instead of water improves the process (and stops the soap from going stinky)... I think that it gets all the soap pixies high from the fumes though. :o ;)

Cam

OGYT
22nd May 2006, 01:07 PM
Skew, I have only these shots of the box, and two vases. I don't have shots that will show the difference in shade. They are darker than these shots show, but I don't know how to get the point across about how much darker.
I would say that the lighter shades on these shots are now about like the medium shades on the photos, and so on.
Does that make any sense?
OGYT

CameronPotter
22nd May 2006, 02:54 PM
Great box especially (I love the handle on the lid).

Your apricot it a lot darker than mine, although mine is dark in some patches.

However, did you notice that simply leaving the apricot out and exposed to the air darkened the wood anyway?

Cam

Skew ChiDAMN!!
22nd May 2006, 10:37 PM
And darker than mine, which looked more like lemon with a dark pith and very light, almost featureless sapwood. Overall, yours is the nicer timber of the two.

I have to agree with Cam on the box. And the lid still fits properly? Bonus! :)

OGYT
23rd May 2006, 06:10 AM
Cam & Skew... I think that the light on the table where these items sit is sort of like the sun... I think that's what's making them get darker.
Say, how much does it cost to send about 5 pounds to the USA? How hard is it for you to get Banksia Pods? I thought there might be a chance we might swap some Mesquite or Bois d'Arc for Banksia Pods... just a thought.
OGYT
maker of fine mulch

CameronPotter
23rd May 2006, 09:57 AM
Not too easy for me to get banksia pods here is Tassie. But if you post it in the Buy and Sell section you might have some luck...

I will actually be coming over to Seattle later in the year though for an indefinite stay (providing the VISA all gets approved properly).

Cam

Skew ChiDAMN!!
23rd May 2006, 02:01 PM
Ditto for here in Vic. The local stuff isn't too good for turning, I believe the better species come from WA and Qld. So I generally buy 'em thru mail order myself. :(

Mesquite I know, it's much like our Doolan or Budgeroo (both lovely timbers, although hard!), but Bois d'Arc?? That's a new one on me...

TTIT
23rd May 2006, 02:12 PM
Mesquite I know, it's much like our Doolan or Budgeroo (both lovely timbers, although hard.

???? Doolan ????:confused: :confused: :confused:

hughie
23rd May 2006, 02:14 PM
Say, how much does it cost to send about 5 pounds to the USA? How hard is it for you to get Banksia Pods? I thought there might be a chance we might swap some Mesquite or Bois d'Arc for Banksia Pods... just a thought.

OGYT.] here are the rates to the US from Aust.
But the real question is, what is Bois D'Arc like?
hughie

<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=3 width=460 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD bgColor=#ff0000></TD><TD bgColor=#ff0000>Price</TD><TD bgColor=#ff0000>Maximum Weight</TD><TD bgColor=#ff0000>Notes</TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2><INPUT onclick=submit(); type=radio value=ems_m name=service>ECI Merchandise (http://www.auspost.com.au/eci/)</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2>$139.00</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2>20kg</TD><TD align=middle bgColor=#d2d2d2>1</TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2><INPUT onclick=submit(); type=radio value=ems_d name=service>ECI Documents (http://www.auspost.com.au/eci/)</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2>$132.00</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2>20kg</TD><TD align=middle bgColor=#d2d2d2>1</TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2><INPUT onclick=submit(); type=radio value=air name=service>Air mail (javascript:open_window('define.asp?id=3');)</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2>$90.50</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2>20kg</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2> </TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2><INPUT onclick=submit(); type=radio value=econ name=service>Economy Air (javascript:open_window('define.asp?id=5');)</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2>$81.00</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2>20kg</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2> </TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2><INPUT onclick=submit(); type=radio value=sea name=service>Sea mail (javascript:open_window('define.asp?id=6');)</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2>$54.50</TD><TD bgColor=#d2d2d2>20kg</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

OGYT
23rd May 2006, 03:15 PM
Hughie, thanks for the mailing rates. Whew! Theyre proud of their haulin' aren't they?
Bois d'Arc is called Osage Orange in some states in the US. It grows around here, up to about 26" diameter, the bark is fairly rough, brown with a yellowish tint. It has thorns, grows fruit with texture that looks like a cross between cauliflower and and orange, that is green in color. Weighs a ton, even when cured (not the whole tree, just a bowl blank) :o).
The wood is bright yellow, like those little smiley faces we can't use here, and UV light will after a time, turn it to a beautiful chocolate brown. Green, it turns well. Cured out, it's like carbon steel. Used for fence posts, it will last for around 100 years. Bugs don't like anything but the cambium layer because they don't have carbide teeth, saws don't like any of it when it's cured out, and I haven't had the guts yet, to try turning tools on a cured piece.
It's very stable wood, and if you saw the pith out of it and turn it thin when it's green, it seldom cracks as it cures out. That's my experience with Bois d'Arc. It turns like Lignum Vitae when Green. Beautiful to sand, when green but not wet.
Bois d' Arc (pronounced Bo-dark here) is French, for "wood of the bow". Indians used it for bows and arrows, because it's flexible, and extremely hard to break.
Sorry this is so long. I love this wood.
OGYT

CameronPotter
23rd May 2006, 03:19 PM
Yep, we have a bit of osage orange here too, but it is pretty uncommon/expensive (especially in bow stave sizes).

I think that the forum owners actually do a bit of a trade in osage themselves...

Cam

Skew ChiDAMN!!
23rd May 2006, 07:07 PM
Osage Orange, eh? Damn, I wish I had some b/nuts ready to hand. :rolleyes:


???? Doolan ????:confused: :confused: :confused:

Yup, Doolan. Another of our desert woods, lokks and turns much like Budgeroo or Brigalow.

hughie
24th May 2006, 01:32 AM
It's very stable wood, and if you saw the pith out of it and turn it thin when it's green, it seldom cracks as it cures out. That's my experience with Bois d'Arc. It turns like Lignum Vitae when Green. Beautiful to sand, when green but not wet.


OGYT,

Damn! that sounds like a real nice timber to play around with. I have turned a fair amount of Lignum many years ago and loved it.
I am tempted to take you up on your offer of a swap. 20kg would a be a truck load of pods :D not to mention a solid lump of Bo-dark. not sure where to source 20kg of pods. If I am successful I will pm you.
hughie

OGYT
24th May 2006, 02:12 PM
Let me know, Hughie, 20 kg is about the same as 44 pounds, right?
OGYT

hughie
25th May 2006, 01:19 AM
Let me know, Hughie, 20 kg is about the same as 44 pounds, right?
OGYT


yep! right on the button and will do. hughie

CameronPotter
26th May 2006, 12:00 AM
Sorry to drag this back on track for a second - poor form I know... ;)

The four bowls were pulled from the paper wrap tonight:

Apricot, sassafras and eucalyptus burl are all in great nick, no cracks, no visible warping. The tea tree looks a bit football shaped...

Cam

hughie
26th May 2006, 01:24 AM
Apricot, sassafras and eucalyptus burl are all in great nick, no cracks, no visible warping. The tea tree looks a bit football shaped...


Cameron thats good news the last eucalyptus burl I soaked in soap for about a month and then dried still moved out of round . But developed some nasty cracks. Got by with sawdust and CA, so this is good as I have several more blanks of eucalyptus.
hughie

OGYT
26th May 2006, 04:45 AM
so this is good as I have several more blanks of eucalyptus.
Hughie, (pm'd you back). Is this Eucalyptus the kind that's full of holes?:confused:
A friend sent me some small pieces that is full of holes, and it was labled as some type of Eucalyptus.
Just wonderin'
OGYT

CameronPotter
26th May 2006, 10:04 AM
I can be both ways. This one didn't have holes in it, but I have worked with ones that do too - mind you I reckon that I would dry them slow.

Cam

hughie
26th May 2006, 11:24 AM
Hughie, (pm'd you back). Is this Eucalyptus the kind that's full of holes?:confused:
A friend sent me some small pieces that is full of holes, and it was labled as some type of Eucalyptus.
Just wonderin'
OGYT
Al, I got it ok and have replied, no worries.
yeah has some, holes that is, what I'll do is post a pic of the bowl. The blanks are fairly solid and are of the resinous type, ie resin veins running through them and so not alot of holes. But mine opened up some as they dried out.
hughie

OGYT
26th May 2006, 02:40 PM
ie resin veins running through them and so not alot of holes. But mine opened up some as they dried out.
hughie
Yeah! That's what he called it... "resin eucalyptus".. I'll be glad to see a photo of it. It looks like pretty keen wood.
AL

Jeff
29th May 2006, 04:25 PM
Detergent is hydrophobic, that is, it ]dislikes water[/I], it will not attach to water molecules. In an effort to get away from water, detergent will attach to dirt particles, surrounding them. The agitation of the water in a clothes washer shakes the detergent bonded to the dirt loose, and then it is flushed away. In order for detergent to work it must have water to escape from. Common household detergents have many additives which may cause their own interactions within your brew. Soaps work on a different principle.

PAH1
30th May 2006, 09:49 AM
Detergent is hydrophobic, that is, it ]dislikes water[/I], it will not attach to water molecules. In an effort to get away from water, detergent will attach to dirt particles, surrounding them. The agitation of the water in a clothes washer shakes the detergent bonded to the dirt loose, and then it is flushed away. In order for detergent to work it must have water to escape from. Common household detergents have many additives which may cause their own interactions within your brew. Soaps work on a different principle.

Jeff
The terms detergent and soap are very confusing, however the physical characteristics are actually the same. Generally a soap is considered to be a sodium or potassium salt of a natural fatty acid, a detergent can be synthetic or natural and is not restricted to being a fatty acid eg Tween20, TritonX100 as well as Sodium Dodecylsulphate.
Detergentsare actually both hydrophobic and hydrophilic. They are able to bind to both types of surfaces. Their action in the wood environment would be interesting, the hydrophilic heads attaching to the cellulose fibres and their tails into the bulk. That sort of interaction would tend to exclude water from the bulk area. The addition of a water miscible solvent, such as ethanol or acetone, would then enable the water to be removed fairly easily. Why this sort of effect would result in less dimensional change is a bit of a mystery, however it is not unique to detergents and ethanol. PEG, glycerol and probably a few other interesting things that i can think of would fit the bill as well. It would be interesting to find out which of the detergents work and which do not and relate that back to composition. My guess would be that some detergents are able to interact with a key component of the cell wall and some are not and that is why you see differences in how well each detergent and soap works.

The bit about polyphosphates is probably a load of garbage, once they are emulsified/disolved in water they are no longer able to absorb water! The pH effect may be real, from memory cellulose fibrils start to break down in highly alkaline environments and don't react real well to highly acidic ones either.

hughie
30th May 2006, 11:24 AM
Detergents are actually both hydrophobic and hydrophilic. They are able to bind to both types of surfaces. Their action in the wood environment would be interesting, the hydrophilic heads attaching to the cellulose fibres and their tails into the bulk. That sort of interaction would tend to exclude water from the bulk area. The addition of a water miscible solvent, such as ethanol or acetone, would then enable the water to be removed fairly easily. ]


Very interesting post, leads me to some interesting possibilites. Much appreciated for the insights.
hughie

hughie
4th June 2006, 06:00 PM
Apricot, sassafras and eucalyptus burl are all in great nick, no cracks, no visible warping. The tea tree looks a bit football shaped...


Cameron,

I just pulled rough turned Camphor Laurel bowl after 4-5 days in meths. Curious thing on top of the meths was a very noticeable oil slick, no doubt camphor oil leached out of the bowl.No real smell as it was overpowered by the meths evaporating.
Have noticed anything similar with your bowls?

hughie

CameronPotter
5th June 2006, 11:04 AM
Nope, but I haven't done anything so oily with it.

That might happen with huon pine, but as I said, I haven't tried it.

None of the last four bowls have cracked at all (and that is very surprising seeing as one was burl, one hard some bark left on it and one has thin edges.

HOWEVER, the tea tree (which I thought was turned to a fairly stable shape) is now football shaped - so much so that I won't be able to re-chuck it and even if I could, I couldn't turn it round as the oval has warped FAR more than the width of the bowl (about 10mm). Pretty impressive that that amount of shifting didn't cause a crack.

Cam

TTIT
5th June 2006, 12:21 PM
HOWEVER, the tea tree (which I thought was turned to a fairly stable shape) is now football shaped - so much so that I won't be able to re-chuck it and even if I could, I couldn't turn it round as the oval has warped FAR more than the width of the bowl (about 10mm). Pretty impressive that that amount of shifting didn't cause a crack.
Cam

The tea-tree doesn't surprise me at all Cam. I pulled some out of storage yesterday and in just 10 months, fully sealed with Mobilcer, it had warped and cracked an unbelievable amount.:mad: :eek: Shame really - I salvaged a small bit to do an egg-sample and it has really nice colour!:(

CameronPotter
5th June 2006, 12:29 PM
Yeah, mine had nice stripes running through it. I was a bit upset about it really.

However, as I said, it did not crack - which is pretty incredible. I may have to sand this one some other way (and lap the bottom flat). It actually looks quite nice as an oval. It be be a nasty job though...:(

Cam

hughie
5th June 2006, 01:30 PM
Nope, but I haven't done anything so oily with it.

That might happen with huon pine, but as I said, I haven't tried it.

None of the last four bowls have cracked at all (and that is very surprising seeing as one was burl, one hard some bark left on it and one has thin edges.



Cameron Its been out of the meths for a couple of days and its shown no signs of movement at all and it weighs nothing, interesting.
I suspect the long soaking has had a similar effect of using meths to get rid of the water in the fuel tank.
The residual meths has taken on a definite amber colour. I might try and decant the oil off the top to see what it is.
hughie

CameronPotter
5th June 2006, 01:38 PM
That is a nice idea (decanting the oil). Handy side effect - although it might also remove the nice smell of the wood.

My other trials (eucalypt, sassafras and apricot all came through with flying colours) - they still have no visible signs of warping.

Cam

hughie
5th June 2006, 02:04 PM
That is a nice idea (decanting the oil). Handy side effect - although it might also remove the nice smell of the wood.


Cameron One way or another the smell goes anyway. The only way to maintian it would be to have a totally untreated finish. But then, I could, if enough was decanted to rub it back in :D

Sorta like the way they do it for freeze dried coffee. They squezze the beans to gain some of the oil. Then as the jar is filled with instant coffee. A small amount of the oil is squirted in the top to provide that great smell when you first open the jar.

CameronPotter
5th June 2006, 02:17 PM
But then, I could, if enough was decanted to rub it back in :D

Good idea! As for my experience, the huon smell certainly doesn't go away (although I have only used Shellawax or walnut oil on my huon pieces (never anything like polyurethane).

Cam

rsser
5th June 2006, 03:36 PM
Try n/c sanding sealer and wax as finishes on your Huon pieces.

A tip from the master of Huon, Len Smith.

But now I'm just encouraging you away from your career building work.

Hickory
8th June 2006, 06:04 AM
Here is a link to a BLog on drying green bowls http://alcoholsoaking.blogspot.com/

This is basicly the same process that I use except for the adhereing to detail and finite care that this fellow shows as compared to my sloppy attempt. Even without the great care for detail, I have never had a failure using this method.

So clean, so simple, so easy. Why bother with messy soap and stuff?

CameronPotter
8th June 2006, 11:34 AM
Soap isn't messy... :confused:

TTIT
8th June 2006, 11:37 AM
Soap isn't messy... :confused:

...or flammable.:eek: .....or expensive.:o

hughie
11th June 2006, 02:03 AM
Here the results of a combination of soap and meths.

This particular timber moves around a great deal. It is, I believe some variety of Elm, the main log looked a bit like Carpathian Elm which is very rare in Sydney. Or perhaps Boree as some have suggested ?
They were a couple of off-cuts I was playing around with to see what I could achieve to prevent the movement. Both are around 4" [100mm ] tall and 3-3.5"[75-80mm ] dia with up to .5" [12-13mm] ovality

It was roughed out green then soaked in the soap, brought out for about a week then into the meths for around 48hrs. No cracking etc but they went a pleasant oval shape. On one you can see a slight imperfection in the centre. Finished with a rub on poly three coats.

hughie

rsser
11th June 2006, 09:00 AM
Nice work Hughie. I like the way you've centred the form on the grain on the second one.

Auzzie turner
12th June 2006, 11:07 PM
Say, how much does it cost to send about 5 pounds to the USA? How hard is it for you to get Banksia Pods? I thought there might be a chance we might swap some Mesquite or Bois d'Arc for Banksia Pods... just a thought.
OGYT
maker of fine mulch
If your looking for Banksia pods, well I can get them to you, I have some almost 1 foot long, in perfect condition. And that Mesquite or Bois d'arc sounds interesting, can post pics of them if you like, and I doint think the postage would be that much

Regards........Joash