Turning a gearknob

[abungate]

Hi all,

I drive a manual Commodore, and Ive been thinking of turning a gearknob for it. The only problem I forsee is splitting around the base (where it screws on). I would imagine the grain will be running parallel to the gear stick, and this would create a tendency for the split to occur along the grain.

I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how this could be fixed? I was thinking of a steel collet of some sort, but wouldnt know where to get one / how to make one. Maybe this isnt the way to go.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Andrew.

[Tim the Timber Turner]

If you use a hard timber such as gidgee or the like, you can tap a thread straight into the timber. Softer timbers would require a metal or plastic sleve. Either way you will have to get your hands onto a tap to suit.

Cheers

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Some days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't turn at all.

[Iain]

Hafaele (sp) have threaded inserts in 6-8 and 10mm, the ones that cut their own thread into the wood.
I have used these for gearknobs, generally 8mm.

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: http://community.webshots.com/user/iain49

[ptc]

address of supplier of gear knob inserts please.

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p.t.c

[RETIRED]

http://www.hafele.com.au/isapi/home/default.asp

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Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

[fxst]

for my old Toyota Landcruiser I used a piece of walnut and drilled a hole 1/8th in smaller than the threaded section and ..voila.. it cut its own thread no problem
Pete

[ubeaut]

Did the same thing on a gearstick knob for my old Urvan. Worked a treat.

Best to drill the hole first then insert a mandrel and turn it on that. This way you will get the hole dead centre and the knob will be perfectly balanced and aligned with the shaft. Also make sure to leave enough meat over the threaded section so as it won't split the timber when force threaded onto the gearstick.

Cheers - Neil http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

[soundman]

your local bolt shop or auto parts center should have a thread repair product (name illudes me) which has the target thread on the inside and an oversized thread on the outside. may be of use.
I also agree that hard wood threads very well.
perhaps a brass ring or collar could be a go.

[abungate]

Hi All,

Some great ideas. I'm thinking of using a hardwood and with the drilled pilot hole, let the thread cut itself.

The only problem I can forsee is splitting of the timber, not when threading, but during use. Around the section which would go onto the thread, it would probably be relativly thin. I am worried about this section of the timber splitting.

Its this splitting I'd like to stop. I might turn a test blank in radiata pine, and see how it goes....

[RETIRED]

Gooday,

Fit a ferrule like a chisel handle and should not split or if it does that will hold it together http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

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Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

[Eastie]

Another option for strength (if not mounting directly onto the gear selector shaft) use a good two part glue and smother all of the timber thread/bore surface before joining. The glue works into the surrounding timber, giving the grain increased strength that helps to prevent fractures.

[Hoffy]

A few years ago I turned a gear knob fo my 1929 Rugby. I used a metal insert that threaded onto the gear lever. This came out of the original bakelite knob. I drilled a hole in the knob and glued it in with 24hr Araldite - this is harder than the 5 min stuff. I greased the inside of the insert, screwed it onto a bolt then applied the glue to the hole. The greasse stops any glue from getting onto the thread. No problems in the two years of use. I used a hardwood.