Gaza 4th June 2006, 05:36 PM Always done my sharpening on white wheel on a bench grinder so thought i would try some sand paper sharpening.
Got a sheet of granite bench top, going to stick the paper to this. are these grits OK, 80, 120, 180, 320, etc 1000. should the paper be in about 3in wide strips. and do you lube it up with water as you work the blades.
mic-d 4th June 2006, 06:01 PM G'day Gaza. Do you have some extra time on your hands? I used to sharpen with sandpaper but went to a white wheel and water stones. 80 might be a bit big unless you are bringing some old blades back to life. Don't trust the granite, check it for flat b4 using. I tried using some only to discover it was way out of flat when I put the straight edge on it.
Personally, I think the paper method is inferior because it is slower. No doubt you can get a good edge tho'.
Cheers
Michael
Gaza 4th June 2006, 06:52 PM Do you have some extra time on your hands?
One of the jobs of the machinist was to sharpen all tools inlcd hand tools and i am scared of using the wheel.
I don't mind doing it by hand but just sick of using crap Stanley wet stones and dont want to invest a wad of cash in Japanese stones for now.
kiwigeo 5th June 2006, 10:43 PM One of the jobs of the machinist was to sharpen all tools inlcd hand tools and i am scared of using the wheel.
I don't mind doing it by hand but just sick of using crap Stanley wet stones and dont want to invest a wad of cash in Japanese stones for now.
Gaza,
Id look seriously at costing of sandpaper versus water stones. I started off using sand paper but it started getting expensive. I invested in some King water stones and theyve worked out cheaper in the long run.
soundman 6th June 2006, 12:23 AM I'v played with sand paper sharpening and concluded that it aint everything.
I use it to do the rough work after i've come off the grinder.
it gives me a nice square edge and is fast in getting a blade into shape.
I then go across to a norton synthetic bench stone that i use oil with, from there to this old fine stone ( naturaly quaried ) that I inherited.
I tried water stones ( cheap ones ). I prefer oil lubrication as it doesn't promote rust.
It very easy to go over the to with sharpening, lots of sand paper advocates seem to use a heap of different grades 8 or more. That seems a bit silly to me.
too many steps, too much material to have & store.
& you go thru a hell of a lot of sand paper.
All we seem to be seeing in the wood press at the moment is water stones.
oils stones still work fine.
one thing I think is funny, " naturaly quaried water stone" It a stone you may chose to use water with it but its still a stone.
I recently purchased a couple of stones ( cheap ) that were marketed as "naturaly quaried water stones" why then were thy coated in a greasy substance, I'll be using them with oil thanks.
That should get some comment:D
cheers
Lignum 6th June 2006, 01:14 AM Once apon a time i used to do the whole geek sharpning thing and have mirror polished and ultra sharp blades, then as a woodworker i grew up and realised it was a waste of my valuable workshop time. Now i have a black, red and yellow diamond stone set up, and a quick lap of the back over the three and then in the the veritas honing and a half doz strokes again over the three, then three or four light strokes over the yellow on the next beval setting. Takes 2 min and the blades are razor sharp. Minimal stuffing around and maximun results. Means more time to make things:D
soundman 6th June 2006, 11:59 AM Unless I have a problem, nicks chips, restoration of old.
the fine side of the norton stone followed by the fine airloom stone usualy gets the hairs off the back of my hand.
cheers
Gaza 6th June 2006, 06:29 PM thanks all, food for thought
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