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TimberNut
8th June 2006, 12:55 PM
Brought back some Tiger Myrtle from Tassie in Feb (see pic), ends are coated in wax. I want to dry it asap to make some S&P grinders.

Cam Potter has a thread here detailing using meths & detergent to dry quicker for bowls. I thought I'd start a new one, as I'm not sure if this approach would work for me.

so to all the knowledgable forum members:

1. should I remove wax from pieces first and any suggestions for getting the wax off? (I don't want to cut off and waste any if I can avoid it).

2. if I soaked in meths would I have an issue with toxicity later?

3. If I green turn it, I can't coat the insides that will hold the peppercorns, or salt crystals etc,as it'll be too long, so I need to make sure any treatment won't leech into the salt (or pepper) down the track.

4. can't use the microwave as we only have 1 in the house and i doubt it'd be well received being used for drying timber.

If I bugger this timber up SWMBO will KILL me. She's noted EVERY piece we bought back, and tells me I can 'play' with all my other timber, but the 'Tigers all 'for her' (ie I can't make anything out of it for anyone else!).

Seeing as she is the 'holder of the finances' and lets me lash out on other toys I'd better keep her happy. She's desperate for some Tiger Myrtle S&P grinders, and if I can avoid air-drying times that'd be great!

So, how to go from here to finished, and ensure the resultant product is non-toxic?

All suggestions welcome

CameronPotter
8th June 2006, 12:59 PM
I suggest keeping her happy in other ways...

Myrtle suffers warpage quite badly in my experience.

The metho and soap method shouldn't really affect the timber (you certainly can't smell it once left for a few days), but I have a piece of tiger myrtle that I am leaving to dry the slow way because I want to be safe with it...

Good luck though.

(Oh and if you REALLY want o play around with it and remove the wax - not recommended - then do so with a scraper).

Cam

TimberNut
8th June 2006, 01:16 PM
Thanks Cam,

I'd only consider removing the wax if I was going to soak it and needed exposed endgrain for that procedure. I've ripped a couple of the pieces to about 80mm square cause I knew the S&P grinders request would come up, and I'm hoping the smaller section will dry quicker.

How long before they'd be dry at a guess? (Cut green and waxed early Feb this year).

Keep her happy? Easy! Just leave the Tiger alone!!

We brought back 1/4 tonne of timber to Sydney and if I pick any of the other stuff up, she's interested in what I'll make, but every time I even LOOK at the Tiger, she tells me to 'leave her timber alone!' hehe.
'Playing' with the Tiger isn't an option, I'll only do it if I can be sure to get it right, otherwise it'll have to sit in the shed for a couple of years.

Have some other pieces that were waxed all over. Should I remove the wax from the long grain, or just leave it??

Cliff Rogers
8th June 2006, 01:30 PM
I'd rough turn them, take them now to round but a bit oversize, drill or hollow them a bit under size & stick them in a plsatic bag in the freezer for a couple of days, take them out & remove them from the plastic bag & weight them.
Store them in a cool dry place for a couple of weeks & weight them again.
Store them & weigth them again in another couple of weeks til they stop loosing weight.
Then you can finish them off.

rsser
8th June 2006, 08:26 PM
I haven't tried Cliff's method. But it's worth a try as long as you stay way over-dimension.

Like Cam, I've found myrtle inc tiger myrtle one of the least stable timbers around (except for myrtle burl).

Even with end grain sealing, bagging, and bagging with shavings the stuff will check, crack, warp and poke you in the eye without any provocation.

Given the delicate domestic politics, maybe run several drying treatments at once if you have the stock. In the meantime rehearse a variety of policy positions ('oh, darn, this was young growth stuff', or 'well we got it cheap so what can you expect' or 'this is a prince of timbers, no-one's tried it for domestic items' or etc etc).

Good luck. (It's cheaper than divorce!)

Skew ChiDAMN!!
8th June 2006, 10:01 PM
If I were you, I'd leave 'em alone.

Sure, there are some fairly reliable methods for quick-drying but all the ones I've tried have some form of learning curve which results in... "less than succesful" starting attempts even with relatively stable woods. Until you've had a few failures with other timbers and have learned the early warning signs to cease and desist from whatever method you're using, the Tas Myrtle is best left where it is... unless you like domestic disputes. ;)

rsser
8th June 2006, 10:15 PM
Ian, responding to your last query ...

My rule is that with end grain sealed, drying will take a year an inch. R Raffan adds a year to that.

Short answer, rough out and then do whatever appeals by way of drying technique.

I like to end grain seal bowls with the canned stuff. With Tas Myrtle or fruit or nut woods I check it every couple of days and crank up the sealing as needed .. up to plakky bags.

soundman
9th June 2006, 12:00 AM
I wouldn't put metho near any thing associated with food contact, the stuff they put in metho to make it taste nasty hangs arround for quite some time.

If you got medical meths or pure meths, my be.


I"d take the cowards way out, let it dry in its own good time. then if it splits.
"It wasn't Me":D


cheers

Hickory
9th June 2006, 03:34 AM
Looks like a place for this Alcohol drying process... http://alcoholsoaking.blogspot.com/

I use it on bowls and boxes, and reciently used it making solid pieces. I cut some green Ash into curved corners for an old Model T Ford body, After I cut the basic shape I soaked in Alcohol and allowed to cure for a couple of weeks and the pieces were dryed and light in weight and seems to be as stable as can be. So, I don't think it is limited to turnings.

rsser
9th June 2006, 12:10 PM
Interesting; thanks Hickory.

Hmm, why is it that two meanings of alcoholsoaking immediately occurred to me? ;)

Grizz
9th June 2006, 03:44 PM
I don't know what it is Ern, but you seem to be able to get drinking into just about any thread :). But seriously folks, would soaking timber in cheap whiskey make it more palatable and improve the drying of the wood?


Grizz.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
9th June 2006, 07:19 PM
One of the problems I've found with "soaking" methods, regardless of whether 'tis LDD, metho or whatever, is that certain woods have adverse reactions. Only by experimenting will you find which methods work with which woods. For example, IMHO Huon & meths is not a good combination. Once the smell goes, you may as well be working with poplar. Bland, bland, bland... :(

I'm a proponent of microwaving, to date I've only found a few timbers that have adverse reactions (and some actually seem to improve in appearance or workability!) but I never, ever nuke any timber that I need to be certain of.

I'll stand by what I said and paraphrase: "Until you have a scrap piece of wood to experiment with, leave the good stuff to air dry."

hughie
10th June 2006, 01:11 AM
One of the problems I've found with "soaking" methods, regardless of whether 'tis LDD, metho or whatever, is that certain woods have adverse reactions. Only by experimenting will you find which methods work with which woods. For example, IMHO Huon & meths is not a good combination.
]


I tend to agree theres does not seem to be any universal method, other than perhaps air drying.
Various timbers respond in different ways and need diffenrent approaches to drying. Although to date I have good success with meths. But I have yet to try it on myrtle or redgum, I suspect they will give it a run for its money.
I have good success on Elm [Carpathian?] with both soap and then meths. No ill effects except they went pleasently oval, will post some pics over the week end.
hughie

rodent
10th June 2006, 03:10 AM
skew chidam for got to tell you he puts it in a plastic bag and ties the end so you can see the condensation in the bag you then take it out too the shed (and harms way ) .take it out of the bag and turn the bag inside out to dry .that way no smells in the microwave .that right skew.

Neil
10th June 2006, 09:23 AM
Ian - You're worried about the toxic effects of drying processes when you should probably be more worried about the toxic properties of the wood.

I could well be wrong here, but isn't Tiger Myrtle the result of spalting? If so why in the world would you want to encase your salt and pepper in toxic fungal container? :eek:

Think about it.

Cheers - Neil :)
.

CameronPotter
10th June 2006, 02:44 PM
Good point...:o

rsser
10th June 2006, 06:39 PM
Acc. to Chris of Cockatoo, we don't know why T. myrtle develops its tiger stripes.

Perhaps an endangered species was reincarnated.

Tassie Boy
10th June 2006, 11:54 PM
Good point Neil,
Tiger Myrtle is creted by a fungal growth similar to splating.

Im not sure that i would go putting pepper and salt in it with out coating it with something!

Beautiful wood though....

TimberNut
13th June 2006, 11:21 AM
Interesting point Neil,

I've no idea why the tiger striping occurs so I'll take your word for it that fungus is the cause. That said, I'd definately consider coating the insides somehow.

That then begs the question - once the timber has air dried to equilibrium, what would be the best thing to use to coat the inside that is easy to apply and will provide a decent barrier?

I thought maybe some quick setting epoxy stuff the guys pour on burl blanks to make into clocks??

Perhaps I could bore the hole up the centre, then pour in something and rotate slowly by hand allowing it to seal the timber, then rechuck and turn the outside?

My other idea was to get a PVC pipe the right size (if i can find it - maybe electrical ducting pvc?) and insert that up the centre bored hole. Only problem that I can see there, is the wall thickness of the PVC means I'll lose too much capacity and be refilling too often.

Any more ideas?

PHD1
13th June 2006, 12:49 PM
Hi All,

I have heard that Pentacryl is working on a food grade product. Im not sure if it is out yet. The standard Penticryl is called none toxic, but not registered as food grade. I have never used a drinking alcohol, but i would think something like clear vodka would work.
Well good luck