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Gil Jones
14th June 2006, 11:18 AM
4.5" wide by 1.375" hi
Turned from green Magnolia, wall is 3/16", and collar is ebonized Walnut. Finished with wipe-on Min Wax poly, and lightly buffed.

lubbing5cherubs
14th June 2006, 11:24 AM
Gil they are beautiful pieces. May I ask how do you hollow out that kind of shape? What tools are used? I am new to this and that shape is just gorgeous in both your postings
Toni

Gil Jones
14th June 2006, 11:37 AM
Hi Toni, and thank you. The hole is about 1" diameter (before the collar goes on). With a 1" Forstner bit, I drill a hole to about 1/8" of the final depth. Then I use a Scorpion or Stinger hollowing tool for most of the inside work, if it will fit inside. If not, I use a home made hollowing tool (which I will post a picture of in a bit, as soon as I take one). The Scorpion and Stinger are made by Don Pencil >> http://www.donpencil.com (http://www.donpencil.com/)
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The homemade hollowing tool is just an "old" carbon steel chisel that I bought at a flea market years ago. Carefully heat the spot where you want the bend, and slowly form the angle needed to hollow around the corner through the hole.

hughie
14th June 2006, 02:27 PM
Gil,

Nice one! Great finish, I like the foot detail as well.




I have just knocked up a tool hollow this type a little easier. Just finished making the handle and gluing it on.

ss_11000
14th June 2006, 05:09 PM
nice work....how do you ebonise the timber ( i'm sure u have sed it before but i cant find it)

rsser
14th June 2006, 11:14 PM
Reckon there's a lot of skill in hollowing with that home-made tool Gil. Nice work.

dazzler
15th June 2006, 12:06 AM
Very nice,

Did you fill it with little green men b4 you sealed it:p

cheers

Gil Jones
15th June 2006, 04:15 AM
Thanks for all the comments.
Hughie, I like your curved/stabilized hollowing tool, I may need to make one like it.
Stirlo, attached is a Word (.doc) file on ebonizing (it is very easy).
Ern, the homemade hollowing scraper works OK, but would be better in a swan-neck shape so the cutting edge is closer in line with the shaft line of the tool to reduce some of the torque force. It is not bad for small work.
No little green men, Daz, it just zooms around on autopilot.

hughie
15th June 2006, 02:47 PM
Hughie, I like your curved/stabilized hollowing tool, I may need to make one like it.


Gil I'll see if I can get some detailed pics off to you along with a few dimsensions. You can take it from there, it should be easy as long as you have a welder handy
I have been using it today and it works fine.Gonna make some variations on the tips to get into a tight radius etc.
hughie

Gil Jones
15th June 2006, 02:58 PM
Thanks Hughie, I would appreciate that.
I do have an arc welder (TIG would be better, but can't justify the cost).
Are you using 318 SS?
:)

ss_11000
15th June 2006, 10:48 PM
thanx Gil for posting the doc. it looks pretty easy as you said.

hughie
16th June 2006, 01:39 AM
I do have an arc welder (TIG would be better, but can't justify the cost).
:D yeah TIG here is not cheap either. Arc works for me and no argon gas bottle hire either;)


Are you using 318 SS?

no, I am using 316L food grade. But it does not matter marine grade 18/8 would just as good, or what ever you have on hand. I just use this cos I have it, other wise it would probably be ms.
I have PM'd you with pics, details etc
hughie

Gil Jones
16th June 2006, 03:38 AM
Thanks Hughie!

Stirlo, if you want to ebonize wood that does not react to iron acetate (no tannins), one or two coats of strong tea will cause the reaction. I use the tea first on any wood to be ebonized, because it makes the color darker and reacts faster.