Novice Requires Help

[RUSHY]

Hi You chaps,I have never used a router I have a hardwood plank that I intend to cut up to make a "U" shaped breakfast bar top,please see picky's at what stage would I rout the edge before I cut the sections or when I join it up,any information or tips would be very usefull,
Steve Rush Bundaberg.

[Wood Butcher]

I can't see any reason why you can't rout the edge after you join it up. This way the routed edge might flow around the bends a little nicer.

[Tex B]

Well, what are the options?

You can rout each section before joining, and join as you attach each piece to the counter. This is probably how I would do it, as the attached piece(s) will make the joining easier (easier to clamp up and hold steady while the glue dries). Also avoid the problems of the other options.

Or you can rout each section, join them all up, and then attach the assembly. This will require a large, very flat area to join, and some innovative clamping techniques (temporarily attaching clamping blocks maybe?) and some interesting maneuvers getting the assembly through the door and into place.

Or you could join and then rout, with the same issues. If you do plan to assemble first and then schlep it in and attach the assembly, probably easier to join first and rout second. This will leave rounded edges as opposed to sharp edges at each join, which may or may not be the look you're after. You'll need to use your garage floor or some other large area as the workbench, and figure out how to hold the assembly steady while you're routing.

Or you can join and attach, then rout. Be sure to move the toaster though, as this will create an enormous amount of sawdust in the house. I wouldn't recommend this one.

Also, I would cut and loose fit the pieces before routing. Routing with shorter pieces is much easier and less prone to error than routing one long piece, unless you've got a very long bench, support and professional equipment. Depending on your router profile, cross cutting may cause some tearout at the edges, where if you rout after cutting you will remove any minor tearout.

Hope this helps,

Tex

[Ian007]

Assuming you are only rounding over the edge, I would route it before cutting to size, that way you would eliminate any rolling around the corner at the end which would make that section scrap.
As you have said you havent used a router before just remember to

keep the work on the left hand side of the router bit.
Make sure you lock the router depth. you dont want to suddenly plunge cut half way thru your cut.

practise on some scrap first to set your depth ect and get some practise.

Cheers Ian:)

[routermaniac]

This is what I would do, please feel free to disagree :-)

I notice you have the Maktek router which a a reasonable one, but a little on the heavy side, so depending how comfy you are with it you may choose to route and cut or cut then route.

Personally I would route the piece as a whole. I would do this in several passes, the shallower the pass you take, the more likely you are to get a good finish and the more control you have over the router.

You need to take your time and keep the feed rate of the router relatively constant. The problem of routing the pieces after cutting them, is that you may stuff up the starting and ending point of each piece and you will not be happy wth that!

Whatever you do, practice on scrap for some time, do not rush in because you will likely regret it.

A sharp good quality bit makes a bit of difference. Also make sure you pick the correct side of the timber so you are routing along grain for most of the job, not against it (the latter will give you much tearout).

Wear goggles and make sure the bit is secure in the collet and the shaft is not touching the bottom. Also make sure the height is securely set.

I am probably stating the obvious but I would use a roundover bit with a ball bearing to do this sort of thing hence eliminatiing using the router fence.

Have fun!

[doug the slug]

I can't see any reason why you can't rout the edge after you join it up. This way the routed edge might flow around the bends a little nicer.

I can! you wont be able to rout right up to the wall (under the clock).

Apart from that I agree with Wood Butcher. cut all the mitres and prior to assembly, pre-route the part that will be next to the wall under the clock. then attach everything firmly into place then rout the remainder, in several small increments as someone said below. this way all corners will be nice and neat and the timber will be well supported when routing

[BobL]

I agree with the slug's method.

The biggest potential area for a stuff up that will show for evermore is the end of the bar that doesn't touch the wall. If you simply cut the wood square at this end you will have 2 relatively sharp (90o)corners where if the router slips as you go around these corners it will show. An alternative is a large radius rounded end with which will be easier to rout and also safer for people who have to walk past it all the time. So you need to decide on what sort of end you want - then practice doing an end like that on a bit of scrap. I'd suggest spending most of your practice on that end than on long straight runs.

Finally FWIW I would suggest simple rounded edges and resist the urge to over rout or use edges that are too fancy, food and dust get stuck in fancy edges and if you want to be able to lean on the bar a nice rounded edge is the softest one to lean on

[damienhazo]

While routing the joined top isn't an option - the bit can't get all the way in the 90° corner because of the guide bearing - there is the option of routing after cutting. If your round-over bit is bearing-guided - AND THE SAME PROFILE IS TO BE APPLIED TO ALL EDGES - then I agree with those those saying to rout the pieces before cutting.

Going right up to the end of a joining edge with a bearing can be tricky business...

If for example, you plan to round over the top and just chamfer the bottom edge, you will have to cut first. This is because the top becomes the bottom when you flip one piece to join up the 45°s.

If your bit is fence guided, there should be no problem cutting then routing.


Damien

[workgoose]

Hello Rushy, I have done a similar project, although I only had two pieces to join. I set everything up and using bench connectors, pulled the two pieces together, routed the edges top and bottom, dissassembled everything and installed it in the final resting place, again with the connectors, but this time glue as well.That way you save a lot of dust inside the house. cheers Peter

[RUSHY]

Hi Chaps thanks for all the advice jobs done I tried the edge with a Rhino bit that lasted 285 mm so I got a triton bit and that did the work with only slight burning,any way I am happy with it and so is SWMBO,so thanks.
Steve rush Bundaberg,Now for the top in my Bar,