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Steve Walkom
8th August 2002, 01:57 PM
What method do you all use to place info (such as your name, type of timber, etc) on finshed products?

RETIRED
8th August 2002, 04:46 PM
Gooday, A fine Artline pen.

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Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

DPB
8th August 2002, 04:49 PM
I find a location on the work where my initials/date won't be obtrusive and use small stamp which I purchased from Lee Valley Tools in Canada. (Veritas is their own brand and some retailers sell their products here in Australia.)

Each letter and number is embossed on the bottom of individual stamp, so it is possible to vary the info, i.e. date. Simply requires a light tap with a hammer to emboss the timber with the stamp.

As an alternative, Lee Valley also sells customised "branding irons". These can be used to burn your own brand into your work.

Visit their web site at http://www.leevalley.com/wood.
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Woodchuck Canuck
Good luck is the residue of good planning!

[This message has been edited by DPB (edited 08 August 2002).]

[This message has been edited by DPB (edited 08 August 2002).]

[This message has been edited by (edited 12 August 2002).]

Tim the Timber Turner
8th August 2002, 08:34 PM
I use a Fountain Pentel made by Pentel. It's Japanese with a plastic nib. Writes on more surfaces than an artline and the plastic nib dosn't wear like a felt tip. Not easy to find I asked my stationary supplier to source them.
cheers

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Some days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't turn at all.

BobGilmour
8th August 2002, 11:37 PM
Hi all

Freezer bag markers work quite well as long as you don't press down too hard and flatten the felt tip --> very permanent.

However, I mostly use a white (or gold or silver) gel pen available form stationary stores. The effect is nice against dark timbers. Have to be very careful to let it dry fully before going on with any other finishes - as it's water-based.

Oh ... I do my signing after my initial sealer coat (of either epoxy or 2pack poly-u) and before going on with a succession of penetrol, thinned single pack poly-u, tung oil, then wax. So, the hand-written lettering is well-embedded by the time the piece sees the light of day.

Also used iron-on tshirt material run through my ink-jet printer. Worked OK but very fiddly and time consuming ... not to mention some problems with the heat process every now and then. I used a model aircraft sealing iron.

Regards,


Bob.

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wood's good

JackoH
9th August 2002, 01:19 PM
Try a felt pen (Pentel, I think,) specially made for writing on CD. Brilliant will even write on articles that have been Shellawaxed, and not rub off.
Regards John H. http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/biggrin.gif

Actually it's Pilot.

[This message has been edited by John Hambly (edited 10 August 2002).]

Matto
15th August 2002, 08:44 PM
I had a rubber stamp made up with a little logo. I got a round one that fits in the recess for the chuck. I just use a normal stamp pad to ink it and hey presto - a signed piece of work with a nice graphic. A word of advice though, if you use Shellawax (as if you would use anything else http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif), put it on first and then stamp over the top, otherwise the ink smears everywhere (and yes, this is from first hand experience.

You can get the stamps made up at heaps of places. Most of them should be able to do the artwork for you so you can get a basic graphic logo design if you want.

Matto