saw blade

[Tonyz]

Ive got the standard blade on my circular saw there is a big job of recycled jarrah comming up and wondering if there is a rip saw blade that will fit AND do a better job. cheers Tonto

[doug the slug]

yep there sure is :D :D :D :D :D :D

[TritonJapan]

Tonto,

I am assuming you are referring to the 40 tooth blade as being the one you currently have.

Generally, when ripping, it is the volume of sawdust that limits the speed of ripping. Hence, coarser blades are normally recommended for ripping.

Jarrah however is a fairly hard timber and so you are not going to be sailing through the timber at such a rate that the waste will clog the gullets in your blade.

Hence, stick with the 40 tooth, you could use a 60 tooth if you chose.

Next point is the teeth.

Jarrah, being a dense timber is tough to cut in any direction. Normally with ripping, you are not so concerned with cutting the fibers, as you are with digging them out.

When cross cutting, you want to cut the fibers, and the waste will almost fall out.

The tripple cut blades will give you the third cutting face, which in the case of the harder timber, give you a finer sawdust, but a faster rip.

Kerf.
Though I have not used one, have seen on an American DVD the use of a thin kerf blade for ripping. With a thinner kerf, there is less material to remove and less work for the motor to do. The down side of these blades is that you are unlikely to be able to use the overhead safety guard, as the thin kerf will cause your timber to foul the guard support.

In Japan, many, if not most saw blades for circular saws are between 1.6 and 1.8mm thick. The downside of the thin blades is a loss of lateral stability. (They can move a bit too much!)

In hard timber, you can lighten the work load for your saw by raising the blade to its full height.

This will give you a faster cut, but more tearout on the underside.

Steve

[Tonyz]

thankyou oh learned ones for your comments perhaps getting the present blade sharpened will help Tonto