What designs are people building at the moment?

[bloggs1968]

Just for something different, what are all the forum members up to when they are building, dreaming, designing? What designs, types, stages of build etc??

Could be an inspiring discussion about boats, boats and more boats ( as opposed to other things - LOL).

AD

[Daddles]

The Yellowtail Yawl :D

(hey, he said brag, so I am).
You've seen the thread but ... it's David Payne's Yellowtail skiff, with the coachhouse, and a Mik Storer designed lug yawl rig.

Richard

didn't see you admitting to anything Monsieur Bloggs. Come on. Fess up.

[bloggs1968]

Hi Richard,

I'm in to a few different things at the moment. 2nd CY hull will be off the jig this week for fitout but the fitout has to wait a few weeks whilst I do a 10' Gartside traditional clinker for another client. Have a Farrier tri awaiting repairs, a 1/2 finished Payne 3m ( which will be finished whilst I do the final finishing on the CY's) and once the bloody weather warms up ( my hotbox aint big enough to hold enough epoxy), I have a 43' grainger cat to continue with. I'd also like to do something extra for the 2007 wooden boat festival but I'll see how I go for time. Not enough hours in the day. Love to do Gartsides design #146 ( see http://www.gartsideboats.com/swansong.php ). One day..........

regards,

AD

[bitingmidge]

Depends what you mean by "building",

Boat racks for the boat shed.
Goat Island Skiff needs varnish badly. Actually it badly needs varnish!
Eureka Canoe is down to the last coat of poxy then varnish.
Two Puddleducks need paint, one needs a new mast.
The material for the rowboat sits mournfully in the shed.
The Wee Lassie moulds are in the roof waiting to come down.
The pond sailer needs a mast and sail (and varnish)
Two paddles are glued blanks waiting to be shaped.
Two oars are usable (have been for ten years) but really I should sand and seal them shouldn't I?

I can truthfully say I am working on 65 feet of boat at the moment, and you wonder why I get grumpy?

That's all I'm "building" at the moment, but I've got a bigger thing 'building' in my mind.

The only boat I have that doesn't need work at the moment is the two footer!:eek:

Cheers,

P:D

[Daddles]

Building? Pah. You'll have noticed in my earlier post that I didn't mention today's efforts. Having used my absolutely wonderful clamps (see yet another thread somewhere on here) to glue rubbing strips along the bottom of the sheer plank, I've spent the last couple of centuries ... er ... afternoons, cleaning them up and sanding. On one side, I was just doing the final sand, you know, the one where you're just knocking off the sharp edges you missed earlier, the one that's designed to make you feel like you're doing a good job rather than actually achieving anything. Well, the rounded off edges looked a tad sharp. I'd originally shaped them with my brand new Ryobi Laminate Trimmer (yes, I know, I'm poverty striken but with the passing of my half century, I lashed out and bought some tools I've been itching for for the last two years or more - this was one of them). Anyways, I decided to run over the edges of these rubbing strips just once more with the trimmer/router. HAH! I finished, took stuff all timber off, then noticed that, for the first time, the bolt that holds the spindle of the router blade, had been rubbing against the sheer strake, and seeing it was also rotating, it's left a bloody big burn mark all the way along my sheer strake:( More sanding to remove that because the whole idea was to finish the rubbing strip, sheer strake and gunwale bright.

Poo. Paint is much more betterer - it hides things like this, but you'll be proud to know that I am carefully sanding out my latest stuff up and still plan to go with all the varnish. I'd include photos but I'm still a tad annoyed with myself.

I'm making the rubbing strips and the gunwales out of kapur. In the past, I've noticed that this turns a beautiful red when coated with poxy whereas the hoop pine planking remains pale. With a bit of luck, it'll look really good. If not, there's always paint.

Richard

Oh, Mik, the bottom mast step is now glued in place :D and the top step is made and will be glued in place as soon as I've finished fussing with the rubbing strips and then poxy coated the front floatation chamber.

[Daddles]

Boat building.

3 hours procrastination
1 hour frantic activity
6 hours fixing up the mistakes

Richard

[/cynicism]

[bloggs1968]

Boat building.

3 hours procrastination
1 hour frantic activity
6 hours fixing up the mistakes

Richard

[/cynicism]


I'll second that.

Also this week is the making of the new and improved Acme steam boiler. Construction is out of a round thing that beer used to be in ( can't say k#g or the owner might get upset). Saw a good idea on the net that incorporated a whistle (that reminded the busy boatbuilder not to burn the #### out of another boiler) so am giving that a go.

regards,

AD

[bitingmidge]

12 hours procrastination
0 hour frantic activity
0 hours fixing up the mistakes


P
:D

[Clinton1]

12 hours procrastination
0 hour frantic activity
0 hours fixing up the mistakes

That could also be see as a cruel dig at someone....:p

[Wild Dingo]

That could also be see as a cruel dig at someone....:p

Now that wouldnt be me your referrin to young Clinton would it? Nah of course not!! :D

So what am I building?... okay for starters ;) and remember this is just a for starters here

1) I have done the lofting and made and laid the keel of Atkins Valgerda and 18ft Norse Hardringskyte or however the blazes they say it... that along with the tiller and the mast are presently up in the loft of my shed

2) I have made the keel transom and bum of a Stevensons Weekender along with its wheel (not once not twice but thrice Ive made the sodding wheel! :mad: )

3) Ive made the moulds for both Mac McCarthys Wee Lassie and Wee Lassie 2 canoes... to this end Ive also made the building stands for both... both sets of moulds I find after some 3 years need replacing

4) I am also waiting patiently for me ol matey Tony Hunt in Sydney to send along my re-draw of the old Pearl Luggar Trixen (down from 50ft to 26) which I hope to actually get to a stage of building

5) I am aslo considering the plans of Cinema and Snapper boats from David Payne along with 2 others from overseas... small short term (ie 1 year) builds

6) I am presently looking (read convincing her bloody highness) that perhaps it would be easier less painful in the long run if I simply buy a lovely woodenboat from a good friend

Aside from all that! Im making furniture and what I loosely term "wood art" setting up a business choosing a new home design selecting another shed ordering a new cover for the humpyhoochy heading 3000klicks into the desert to work at lunch time tomorrow... AND when I have time enjoying my 8 kids their partners and our grandchild... whew! its a bloody wonder Ive got time to phart let alone build anything :rolleyes: :D

See I knew it wasnt me you were hinting at ;)

[jmk89]

What am I building?

I am still planning a Tamar dinghy, still at the stage of collecting information, asking Boatmik dumb questions, reading books and making decisions (alright, generally procrastinating).

In the meantime, I am working on little woodwork projects (boxes, toys, chests, etc) to improve my woodworking skills so that the little boat isn't entirely a learning experience (ie a collection of stuff ups). Also dealing with a leaking sewer line somewhere up the hill that seems to want to appear in my garage/workshop whenever I start working.

Cheers

Jeremy

[bitingmidge]

1) I have done the lofting and made and laid the keel
2) I have made the keel transom and bum of a Stevensons Weekender
3) Ive made the moulds for both
4) I am also waiting patiently
5) I am aslo considering
6) I am presently looking

Ding,

Would it be fair to say that your actual hobby is making pieces for boats, aparat from waiting, considering and looking which of coures we all know is the fundamental bit?

:D :D :D
P

[Wild Dingo]

Midge... mate one goes through so many levels... looking stary eyed at the whoppin great dream boats is probably the first then realization starts to slowly sink in and you start downsizing that dream boat a bit then a bit more... and all the time time and tide wait for no one and suddenly you wake up one morning sans boat... but you KNOW there must be ONE bloody boat that you can knock up in a weekend just to get out there... so you find and build a 6hr canoe which by the way takes no less than 16hrs and probably a few more going on my example...

and suddnely your out there!!!

but... and heres the sad part... as much as you and your mob enjoy that first foray into building boats just just plain doesnt do it for you... boreing... well actually given its a simple ply and paint canoe it is rather boreing :rolleyes:

So you start looking all over again... then it occurs to you as time and tide begin to roll by once more... it occurs that you may well have seen one that could be rather fun to build and muck about in... so you go find it amidst the scans you have left and you start building again! Great fun... but then you think mmm maybe this isnt the one? so your looking again... meanwhile you still muck about every now and then with the first one... suddenly you think "Eureka" nah not the canoe but the weekender so you start contacting getting the plans replaced (Thank you Mike Stevenson! :cool:) and you start building that one... yaaahoo right?

Nope... suddenly you notice those two sets of moulds sitting there all dusty and a tad worse for the wear from floods and moves and such and you think... mmm maybe?... and so you start sorting them again

And meanwhile... time and tide wait for no man... and youve started your boatlust wandering again only now finally you have defined what it is you actually want the boat for where your going to use her and the nature of the boat you need... so your choices are defined the design selection is limited to those criteria and suddenly there are but 4 choices!!! AMFLAMINAZIN!!! ;)

So thats where Im at me ol matey... as for the friends boat well thats another little additive in the mix! not really what I want but soooooo bloody cute!! and Im about due for a road trip over east and what better reasoning than to buy a boat?... cause I will need time of from work (doubtful) will need to convince her bloody highness of the rightness of the decision (ahem color me curious at my abilities to achieve that one) and then of course theres the time needed to make the decision and actually decide do I sail a 20ft boat around the bight or do I go northward (entailing taking several months of work in the process) aaahhh tis hard indeed

Mind here... at present her bloody highness has started making noises about wanting a trailerable houseboat... plans of which she knows I have copies of very old ones... and a simpler disign I doubt there could be... so thats her ideas just know... houseboat on a trailer means we can buggar of do some fishin and such and not be restricted to the common camping grounds or stay there as the mood may hit her and have all the comforts either way... sigh

But each one of those bits of boats out there gets a small serving whenever I attack one I attack the others... a little bit here a little bit there and suddenly one day there will be a major birthing at Dingo Creek!!!:eek: :cool:

[Boatmik]

Dingo

I don't really like to suggest things out of the blue like this - but a HOUSEBOAT it is just to horrible to comtemplate. EEEEK

Maybe you need to build a houseboat that can GO.

That way you can use it for a platform to ogle other boats from which seems to match your psyche quite nicely.

Tennessee - or one of the early Duck variants of the same with the full headroom for loo and galley and pemanent canopy over the cockpit with roll down weatherproof sidecurtains - get Bolger's book if you haven't already (plan is inside and it is a good read) - look at some pics on the Duck website and work it out for yourself.

I do have a set of Bolger's Tennessee plans here from back when I was trying to be a mini Duck Flat in Sydney a decade ago. Never used - a customer return - would be nice to sell them - but the book is cheaper (I don't sell that).

Don't get too smart - keep it simple or like a houseboat you will be building forever. Keep it simple and it will go together surprisingly quickly.

10 knots on 10hp - 8 knots cruising and the 4 stroke is dead quiet shrouded under the aft deck. Can do 30 miles in a 4 hour stretch with your missus reading a book in the back.

Flat floor so the walking area goes out to the hull sides and easy building

Light enough to trail long distances - at least if you keep more toward Bolger's conception.

A houseboat has the downsides and not the advantages of both a house and a boat - and they are so much building. Lots of them require a big donk (fuel) to go nowhere fast.

But the good thing is if you can sell her the idea of a boat with accomodation to fulfil her wish for a houseboat - then it doesn't cut into YOUR plan and building budget.

MIK

[Boatmik]

No hijack intended.

Go back to what you were doing

MIK

[bitingmidge]

Mik,

Top idea that, and when Dingo's built the keel and strongback for that one he'll find it's actually the hull with all the bulkheads in place and all he'll have to do is bung some roof on it and he's got a boat!

I know you are far too polite to push your own stuff, but what happened to your version?

The nice one with the rear cabin you designed 8(?) years ago? Did you ever finish the drawings?

P
;)

[Clinton1]

Now that wouldnt be me your referrin to young Clinton would it? Nah of course not!! :D

who, me, referring to who, you? Naaaaahhhhh :p .

Good to see in your reply that you are getting all the boat building experience you can.... if that work was for other people, then 'paybacks' are going to see your boat built in a weekend.
I reckon that if you spend all that "pay back" building a few Goat Island Skifs and then flogging them off, that you'd have the cash to build the "one step away from the dream" boat. Just a thought.

[OtakiriLad]

I am currently finishing off the moulds for a strip built Wherry and waiting on quotes for WRC and Kiri strips to start on the next phase.
While waiting there is all the usual research on best methods for strips, epoxy, fibreglass etc.

[Boatmik]

Mik,

I know you are far too polite to push your own stuff, but what happened to your version?

The nice one with the rear cabin you designed 8(?) years ago? Did you ever finish the drawings?

P
;)
Howdy Peter,

I don't feel it is appropriate for Dingo - because it has a double floor which adds to the complexity (read building time) and is another 4ft longer.

I think your summary is about right for the Tennessee
Top idea that, and when Dingo's built the keel and strongback for that one he'll find it's actually the hull with all the bulkheads in place and all he'll have to do is bung some roof on it and he's got a boat! My feeling is that my version would take about 50% longer to build than a Tennessee kept really simple and probably cost about 30% more.

It would start to be a bugger to trail whereas the Tennessee is about the same weight as a 18ft runabout with a 120hp Merc so is pretty trivial to trail.

This is mine - the Tennessee has a similar hullform.

Much better than a houseboat - because it is a boat - simple and light enough to whack in the water for an afternoon to show some friends around the local waterways. Floats in 6 inches of water too so you can pull up on shore.

MIK

[NewLou]

Gidday:D:D:D

Just got a few tweaks to round over the ruff edges n make a few decisions about dimensions & what kind a stock I'm going to use for my First Coffee Table Project.

I can't wait to get into this one!

REGards Lou:)

[Boatmik]

Gidday:D:D:D

Just got a few tweaks to round over the ruff edges n make a few decisions about dimensions & what kind a stock I'm going to use for my First Coffee Table Project.

REGards Lou:)
Nice project. Whats the displacement and what sort of donk will you be using.

MIK

[NewLou]

Yikes

Wrong thread...............Sorry fellas!!!

Perhaps one a u blokes could knock this up n put it in the galley.............orrrrrrrrrrr is that the BRIG:o:eek::o

Spreading the Love Lou:)

[Paddo Woodie]

Hi Andrew,

I'm about to start a Haven 12 1/2.

I thought I might wait until a Tassi boat builder I know pays a visit to Brisi.

I would like to have a few sherbets with him while we look at the plans, discuss strip planking and some other stuff before I get under way.


Cheers Rick

[bloggs1968]

I am currently finishing off the moulds for a strip built Wherry and waiting on quotes for WRC and Kiri strips to start on the next phase.
While waiting there is all the usual research on best methods for strips, epoxy, fibreglass etc.


Otakirilad,

What is the boat in your avatar? What sort of wherry? More information please. Any pics of plans or finished boats??

For WRC, try Jeremy Parker at cedar sales ( no afilliation etc) really looked after me and the product was top shelf.

regards,

AD

[bloggs1968]

[QUOTE=Paddo Woodie]Hi Andrew,

I'm about to start a Haven 12 1/2.

I thought I might wait until a Tassi boat builder I know pays a visit to Brisi.

I would like to have a few sherbets with him while we look at the plans, discuss strip planking and some other stuff before I get under way.


Cheers Rick[/QUOTE

G'day Rick,

It's about time I came up to QLD and would love to drink your sherbet and drool over your plans. Bugger the strip plank, do her carvel out of huon - I know where I can get some...........

regards,

Andrew

[Boatmik]

Bugger the strip plank, do her carvel out of huon - I know where I can get some...........

regards,

Andrew

If it is kept in the water - why not - it would be wonderful.

If subject to trailering loads and the drying out it entails - strip.

MIK

[graemet]

I've just (today) got hold of the lines of a 17' fantail steam launch which I intend to reduce to about 3'6" so I have something to put my little steam engine in - when it's finished. That means that I can work in metal or wood as the mood takes me.
Now all I have to do is figure out they did the planking for those beautiful things!
Cheers
Graeme

[Daddles]

Sorry Graeme. Midge already has a 2' yacht. 3'6" is definitely oversized :D

Richard

Redback is 7'3", definitely in the Battleship class:rolleyes:

[catbuilder]

Hello I'm a new member. And not that its probably close to involving the workmanship of some of your projects. But I'm currently building a Taipan 4.9, off the beach type catamaran. Using Gaboon Plywood and the tortured ply method. Its a project I've wanted to undertake for nearly 10 years, and I finally bit the bullet and started 6 months ago, I had to go away working for extended periods earlier on, but now it has most of spare time. I am aiming for a start of sailing season launch, and can't wait. The hulls are built to the stage of decks being on, a little more glassing, and then fairing and painting. Recieved the beams earlier this week, and a secondhand sail to get me started arrived friday.:D getting to the point of obsession, thanks for listening/reading, I just had to tell someone:rolleyes:

Matt

[Wood Butcher]

Matt, welcome to the forums.

I have only one small problem with your post above.
WHERE ARE THE PHOTOS :D:D

[Wild Dingo]

Welcome Matt... Pics really are a must mate! do please try it :cool: Apologies to the fella on the Dilmah tea adds! :D

Apologies everyone but I feel its time for a... hyjack attack!! :eek:

Mik Ive looked at several of those types of designs... a bloke named Mark Van sent me the prelims for his design way back when he was first starting to put it together thats still cheep enough to buy (I think flatduck sells his designs now or maybe duckworks? one of them do)... theres another bloke from one of the shantyboat forums I used to occasionally post to who sent me his version as well that one had a buff stem which we were altering to allow a ramp for disabled people but never really got that together but somewhere I should still have all the info he sent me... I dont particulary take to the sharpie type mate

So if Im going the houseboat route it will end up being something from the past like these...
Bayou Belle and the big bussard arent an option really now the Atkin Lady of the Lake those paddles are a real PITA to make so from these 5 the only one Ive taken some serious looks at is the float a home

[Wild Dingo]

Well probably definantly NOT no knots :rolleyes:

BUT!!... now one of these five has some serious potential!! ;)

The showboats not really an option but I reckon the hoons would have a riot on one! :D the Kon Tiki is a show stopper for sure but Im not really one of those adventurous types like ol Thor was so I will leave that one but the St Valery I just put here cause shes drop dead gorgeous! :cool: the shanty boat of Bolgers was a bit of a wild fling I chucked as an idea when we had the flood last year her bloody highness was not impressed :( while the other was a passing thought which personally I think would have solved the flooding problems around here again she wasnt impressed even though it was suggested by the SES and Shire blokes who watched water flowing rather rapidly through the house at the time... sheilas eh? cant ever work them out! :rolleyes: but that thing even has a boathouse included! talk about an almost perfect blokes shack! :D

At one stage while still in Mandurah I managed to get a set of plans for a Pommy riverboat you know those ones they used on the canals? but thats mush now :( I also considered the design called "escargot" for a time by a bloke in Seattle was originally designed like the showboat for pedal power but converted for small 15hp outboards but couldnt bring myself to even contemplate a boat with a design name meaning snail! :p

As to the coffee table with outboard? Well now... I know I have a pic somewhere that someone from Woodenboat posted ages ago where a bloke who was anxious to build a boat had an outboard in the shed waiting and there came a time when he found a dining table not being used in the kitchen and being a sorta ingenious sorta bloke this fella rigged the outboard to the flipped over table and took off down the river! it worked... mind you I wouldnt do it since her bloody highness would have a chocolate fit if I ever used her dining table as a boat! :eek:

ahem... okay... back to the thread :o :cool:

[catbuilder]

Sorry guys I'm trying to post pictures, but the truth is I have absolutely no idea when it comes to computers. I know where the pictures are, but I don't know how to get them here.

Matt
Handy as a half open pocket knife

[Clinton1]

hey Matt,
When you post a reply, under the box you type in, there is a box called Additonal Options.
Click the "Manage Attachments" option in there, and a pop-up will rear its head. Click in the blank box and then click "browse". Then navigate to the part of your computers file that has the photo, the double click on that name of the file.
If the photo size is under 100K, then this will attach the photo to your reply, when you press "Upload".
When it has "uploaded", reply like normal.

[catbuilder]

Thanks Clinton
But how do make my pictures smaller, my picture size is a frag over 500k, to large to upload that way.

Matt

[Wild Dingo]

Suggest you go get the free wee program from http://www.mihov.com called "Mihov Image Resizer" its a handy wee thing can resize any pic can change from jpeg to gif or back and allows you to determine the pic size... give me a hoi when you get it downloaded if your having any probs and I will walk you through it ;)

Dont worry about trying to understand the Slovinican lingo either mate I never could work it out... just go down the small list on the left hand side to the "programcki" word and click to the next page and theres mihov image resizer among the list of available programs at the top of the page... click it... yep you may get a pooop up or two just close them if your security system doesnt theyre not harmful 3rd program down is image resizer click on it... next page to open is your download page run down the page (depending on screen size) till you see "Dobi program" and use any of the three sites to download the program from... come to think of it there may well be another easier way of downloading it but Ive not used any other than this one... The program is in English so once downloaded forget the Slovinican lingo its defunct from that point on!

There are others but Ive found this one is about the best :cool:

[onthebeachalone]

"Mihov Image Resizer"That's a little beauty, hey!. Thanks for the tip :).

[catbuilder]

Wild Dingo

I've downloaded the resizer program, if you can help me out.

Regards

Matt

[Wild Dingo]

Okay Matt easy as okay :cool: ...
Take each paragraph as it comes and just follow along I will try to make it painless...

First open up the program... on the left hand side are 3 boxes right? the small one at the top should say something like "C:\" this is your drive usually set at your hard drive... under that will be the second box which will say something like a little file with "C:\" next to it... under that another little file with "program files" next to it and the third little file saying "Mihovs Image Resizer" and the final third box should be empty

Im gonna assume thats right as I cant see your screen and if I wait for you to respond it will take ages!!

So... were goin to leave the first top box as it is (as long as its set at your hard drive)... now were only interested at this stage in the second box we will get to the third box shortly... so in the second box double click on the file with "C:\" this will open up a long list of things... these are whatever you have on your hard drive... dont worry its only you that can see them...

now double click "documents and settings" this will open up another list specific to documents and settings on your computer... this list will be shorter probably only two items (depending on how many people have their own area in the computers hard drive) for example mine has two files under "documents and settings" "all users" and "me" so click on whichever one is you... open that up (all these moves are likely to be double clicks to open) so now you should have another list which as you scroll down it will have all the files pertenant to you and your areas... look down the list till you find "my documents" open that one (double click) look down the list again for "my pictures" or wherever you call the area where you hide your pics... double click that one ("my pictures") and the list of files of your pics (if you put them into files if not then there will be a long list of picture files)

Now it gets interesting... when you open up "my documents" you will probably see the third window now has a list in there... these are the pictures you have saved to "my documents" instead of "my pictures" or wherever you usually hide them... So we will just randomly select any picture in there... I do hope you save your pics as jpegs cause thats the best and easiest if not come back at me after this and I will run you through changing it to jpeg

Okay now down that list you can either single click or double click any pic to get a preview of the pic (single click = small pic double click = larger pic)

So now youve got a pic up right? right... so now that pic is whatever size it is... you need to make it smaller

first click on the tab that says "jpg" in the main screen of the program... done that? right now in that jpg box theres one feature that says "Normal Quality (faster)" and "better quality"... right leave that as it is or move the little lever to "better quality"... under that feature is another that has the word "Pixel" above it... and a number set in it right?... change that number to "440"... and below that a button that says "resize"

So what you do is once the picture is selected and youve changed that number to 440 is hit that resize button just once... then to check that its done its job run down the list in the 3rd box (the list of pictures names) if its done its job it will have a new name in there the same as the one you resized but with "mini" included... this is your resized picture

Okay this is one I did while I wrote that... its original size is nearly a meg but here it is... grandhoon Lukas the widdle blue gnome ;)

Any probs give me a hoi and I'll try to help out... just go steady mate remember if I can do it it has to be bloody idiot proof so you can do it easy!

[catbuilder]

Well heres goes nothin, Hail Mary ++, please please please work. Ladies and Gentleman for the first time ever, I hopefully introduce a photo to the forum of my Taipan 4.9, well one hull at least.

I like to thank Wild Dingo, for his lesson and advise, on how to actually do it, but in the future please don't say 'that if an idiot like me can do it, so can you' because the chances are I can't.

Matt

[Wild Dingo]

No worries eh!! :cool:

Now all you gotta do is muck about with that 440 number till you get the highest one the forum wizgidgetthingy will accept... because theyre restricted to a small size you have to work out how small...

I use the 440 cause my camera takes a whopper pixel pic and Im in that braket of people who just points and clicks buggar the technoshyte!... So I mucked about with the numbers in the program then attempted to upload and swore when the forum bounced the pic back as too big... mucked with the numbers again upload swearing... mucked upload swore... till I found that 440 works a treat for me...

click on my pic mate and see how large the little fella comes up pretty much standard pic size right? now click yours what do you see? a small pic right? so if you now spend just a few minutes doin the muck upload swear dance you will work out which number is right for your sized pics... its all about the details in the larger pic we can see the details in the smaller we cant right? so play with the numbers till you find one that gives you the best quality pic in the jumpup window

By the way love the hull :cool: thats not an old HQ I see parked next to it is it?

Cheers!

Note... mate if I say its idiot proof cause I can do it... BELEIVE ME!!! cause mate Im a total idiot when it comes to technoshyte! If I can do it ANYONE can an thats a fak! ;) Oh and mate glad to have been able to help out

[catbuilder]

Thanks Matey

I have some more up to date photos I will post later. It's my pride and joy WB ute, never ever let me down, although I noticed before I have flat:o But its been good to me, its almost time it had a birthday, maybe after the boats finished.;) Anywho I'll talk later, crops to sow.

Matt

[Potterage]

Hi All
Just thought I would put in my two cents worth. I am Still battling along with my David Payne 5.5m Trailer Sailer (Ithaca) I have attached a couple of photos showing the hull before the final coat of bog which is finished, the next thing is to finish sanding then u/coat it. Then glue on the first part of the keel which I have completed. Then the big turnover!!!
http://ithata.bravehost.com
Paul

[bloggs1968]

Paul,

Looks like your in to some real boatbuilding - SANDING! The guy I work with always says thing like "imagine if we could invent self fairing bog" and other similar things. One thing that I swear by that cuts sanding time down by hours and hours is a powerboard junior from ATL composites. It is this helicopter sort of thing that can conform to flat and convex surfaces ( and slightly concave). For example, I stripped Davids 3m dinghy last xmas and it took less than an hour to get the cedar to 90% fair with only a little bit of hand fairing. A mate had to fair a 32' cutter which he had put on so much bog he was in despair with the torture board and he used one of these and spoke very highly of it.

I've also used it on traditional carvel planking and just as good.

Hull looks good - keep going!!

regards,

AD

[Boatmik]

the St Valery I just put here cause shes drop dead gorgeous!

OY Dingo,

You got any more pictorial info about St Valery?

Particularly a profile or interior layout.

I AM SMITTEN!!!

MIK

[Potterage]

[One thing that I swear by that cuts sanding time down by hours and hours is a powerboard junior from ATL composites. It is this helicopter sort of thing that can conform to flat and convex surfaces ( and slightly concave). ]

AD You are right Im sick of sanding already and I still have days to go yet! The problem I have is marking out the high spots. I have tried rubbing a batten marked with builders chalk to pick out the high spots before using the Torture Boards but doesnt seem to work. Do you have any more details, price, availability, photos on "powerboard junior' as Im interested in anything that would cut down the time and pain (Oh my shoulders!!!). Appreciate it if anyone else can come up with suggestions (serious).
Cheers, Paul

[bitingmidge]

You got any more pictorial info about St Valery?
I AM SMITTEN!!!

Mik,

I'm surprised we haven't had that discussion!

Woodenboat #157 when next our paths cross, BEWARE.

P
;)

[bitingmidge]

Appreciate it if anyone else can come up with suggestions Paul
http://www.atlcomposites.com/pdf/POWERBRDjunior.pdf

Paul, I know how you feel! I too have a great deal of trouble finding the high spots till after the gloss is on!

Light sand with a torture board first to find the high/low spots.

Screed with a notched trowel is next, as you have done, but if you start with the board you won't have to go over the whole thing!

The powerboards are great things, but you'll still have to finish off by hand!

It's about that time, I have lots of other jobs to do and let the blokes with the muscles in to finish off!

Cheers,

P

[bloggs1968]

Paul,

Different colours can help. From your pic it looks like you are bead bogging. I sometimes use a little coloured builders chalk in the bog to differentiate between layers and the colours will guide you as you sand. ATL ( no affiliation) also have a black and a white pigment for the West epoxy.

Don't try to do the hull all at once. I usually divide it into sections and stay on an area till it's done rather than a bit here and a bit there. When you are torture boarding, ensure you work in all directions not just along the hulls axis i.e. say +/- 45 degrees and along the hull.

A batten, as you are using, is a great aid.

If you are any good with a handplane, don't forget that most of the fairing compounds can be planed as well ( same technique as torture boarding ).

Use the best paper you can get. I use 3m 245 40 grit for coarse fairing of bog and it cuts very fast. It is expensive but I reckon it's worth it. Sunmight make a similar product which is cheaper. Make sure you change your paper often as epoxy is hard on paper.

I have learned through experience that a lot of care in making molds, fairing the setup and planking can cut down on the bogging substantially. I reckon cedar is easier to sand/plane than bog so I spend a bit more time during the early stages of building to get everything as fair as possible.

Another thing that may be worth considering is hiring a boat builder or a body repairer for half a day to get some other ideas to speed things up.

I also reckon fairing is as much psychological as physical. Set yourself an achievable target for the day and reward yourself when you get there (not a carton every square metre!).

In the end, think of the benefits your body is getting - you'll be trim taught and terrific by the end of it!

hope this helps,

AD

[bloggs1968]

Oh, and I forgot to say that I have found that with the powerboard, 12" round sanding discs ( like those used on a 12" disc sander) work better than individual strips of paper. You don't get as good a view but it seems to work better.

AD

[Boatmik]

The problem I have is marking out the high spots. I have tried rubbing a batten marked with builders chalk to pick out the high spots before using the Torture Boards but doesnt seem to work.
Cheers, Paul
Howdy Paul, Don't expect to get too much visual feedback from a powerboard or torture board.

What you are relying on is the tool itself to make the decisions for you - because it is just not possible for us to SEE the small differences that will become obvious later.

When screeding filler with a notched trowel don't use one that has equal sizes of notched and un-notched areas either - you want the unnotched areas (say 1/4") to be smaller than the distances between notches (3/4 or 1") - it cuts the amount of materail that has to be sanded.

When you start getting back to the original flat hull surfaces in some places then it is ready to be filled. Maybe 50 to 70 percent back to original with an even spread of areas still filled. By the time you reach this point you start to have a good idea of the actual state of the hull.

When you fill between the screeding it is a good place to add some colour to the filler - so when you do further stages you know which parts indicate the end of the last fairing process. Just so you know where you are.

Where working with unscreeded surfaces I use pencil scribbled and sand until the pencil is gone from all areas - it can't be blown away like chalk dust can - though I have used chalk too.

MIK

[Potterage]

Hi All
Thanks for all the info Boatmik, bitingmidge & bloggs1968. I have used the bead bog method and have filled in the valley's but as I stated earlier it is finding the high spots that is the trouble, because even though I am using Torture boards I still tend to touch some of the lower spots which doesnt give me a correct reading. Do I fill in the areas which I think are low with coloured bog and just sand them back or do I keep sanding the whole lot (trying to touch the low spots ) till I start getting back to the fibreglass? Getting back to the powerboard can you drive it with a power drill or do you need an air drill? What price are they? Wher can you buy them? I have had a look ATL site which tells you all about them but doesnt tell you can buy them. Even a search on Google did not turn up anything new.
Cheers, Paul

[Boatmik]

Hi Potterage,

Re sanding the valleys with the torture board ...

It sounds like you torture board might be too short or not stiff enough - or the handles are not close enough to the ends of the board.

How long is the boat, how long is the torture board and how thick is the board part - is the board ply?

MIK

[Potterage]

Hi Boatmik
The answer to your questions is the torture boards 800 lg x 115 w x 3 thick ply. I have attached a photo showing the handles. The boat is a 5.5m David Payne Trailer sailer.
Cheers, Paul

[Daddles]

I have attached a photo showing the handles. The

No you haven't :D

[Boatmik]

Hi Boatmik
The answer to your questions is the torture boards 800 lg x 115 w x 3 thick ply. I have attached a photo showing the handles. The boat is a 5.5m David Payne Trailer sailer.
Cheers, Paul
Howdy Paul,

First of all some sanding humour - relates closely to gallows humour!
torture board = tortured/bored.

There's your problem Potterage - you board is way too thin. It is too flexible so can get into the hollows. It is so flexible that it conforms to the surface under the weight of the handles.

6mm (which is 8 times stiffer) or 9mm (which is 27 times stiffer would both be more around the ball park. Try 6mm.

Basically with your sanding weight (ie you leaning on the handles) on the board most of its surface should be flat on the surface apart from the very ends of the board - maybe the last half inch - it needs to be stiff enough to just hold that last bit off the surface.

What is happening now is that the board is so flexible you can get the ends down into the hollows without much effort - that's why it is sanding them as well.

Sometimes you need both a stiff TB and a more flexible one - 9mm for sanding longitudinally and 6mm for sanding diagonally across the bilge.

3mm thick torture boards are for sanding round the bilges of canoes - but would probably still go for a 4mm (three times stiffer) for that use.

One useful trick too - particularly for smaller boats (but can also be used on bigger boats for A grade work - if you make up a multi person torture board) is to make up the longitudinal sanding board around the same length as two of your temporary framing stations. This can get rid of the undulations they might cause.

But ALMOST NO-ONE goes to this much trouble because the torture board ends up so long that it is ergonomically dangerous to use. I once ended up with a six month case of RSI from sanding with a too long torture board so my arms were too spread out - it works the wrists through some really strange angles with every stroke - about 800mm is fairly safe I reckon.

(The RSI reoccurs now whenever I spend much time with a torture board - which might be why I like plywood boats!!!)

Hope this helps

MIK

[Potterage]

Hi MIK Thanks again for the advice I will certainly give that a go and let you know how I get on. I was thinking about maybe getting a pressure pak of u/coat and giving the hull a very light mist coat, then using your suggestion of 6mm board, I feel that would show up the hollows so I could concentrate on bringing down the high spots.
Cheers, Paul :confused:

[Boatmik]

Probably 6mm on the bilges and other roundish bits and 9mm on the flatter sections

MIK

[Potterage]

Probably 6mm on the bilges and other roundish bits and 9mm on the flatter sections

MIK
Thanks MIK, but you still didnt say what you think of spraying the u/coat?
Cheers, Paul

[Boatmik]

Hi Paul,

DO I HAVE TO ANSWER EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:-)

You have to sand it either way - so whatever you can do the best job with. Runs and curtains from poor spraying technique (like mine) is a high price to pay.

If my spraying technique was better - things might be different.

MIK

[Potterage]

Hi MIK
Unfortunately the're lots of questions when your a beginner!!!! Thanks for the help anyway.
Cheers, Paul

[Daddles]

The difference between being a beginner and an expert is that as a beginner, you don't have to feel embarrassed about asking questions whereas an expert has got used to it and no longer does (get embarrassed) :D

Spraying - runs and curtains? Man, I can do an entire haberdashery store on my boats :eek:

Richard

[Boatmik]

Hi MIK
Unfortunately the're lots of questions when your a beginner!!!! Thanks for the help anyway.
Cheers, Paul

No problem AT ALL! I just want people to have fun building and using boats - so I am HIGHLY motivated to answer questions.

And the most basic ones are the most important ones.

MIK

[graemet]

G'day Paul,
The one question you don't have to ask is "Why is it called a torture board?"
Cheers
Graeme

[Wild Dingo]

AHEM... sorry fellas a wee hyjack about to happen here!! Hang tight we will return you to your usual convos very shortly...



OY Dingo,

You got any more pictorial info about St Valery?

Particularly a profile or interior layout.

I AM SMITTEN!!!

MIK

Okay mate... I know that feeling one of Bolgers absolute best... anyway what I have is from another mag not woodenboat but I can hunt down the cd set and see if I can copy it for you?... oh sorry hey Midge maybe you can send Mik a copy eh?

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4dc05b3127cce9b837a0f8e3f00000015108AZMnLNy2ctL

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4dc05b3127cce9b837a040f0400000015108AZMnLNy2ctL

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4dc05b3127cce9b837a020f0200000015108AZMnLNy2ctL

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4dc05b3127cce9b837a000f0000000015108AZMnLNy2ctL

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4dc05b3127cce9b837a0e0f0e00000015108AZMnLNy2ctL

A fair chunk of boat eh? ;) ...If memory serves shes somewhere around 20 - 25ft LOA... buggared if I can remember her beam... she has a whopping great centerboard up toward the stem (you can see its box in the internal pic) and a large rudder hanging of the transom which apparently works a treat... she has water ballast and apparently sails a treat takes a small amount of time to load up the ballast and the same when offloading makes for light trailering... damn that friggin flood!! :mad:

Apparently if memory serves Sam Devlin built the first one and had to revise the cost as it wasnt as easy a build as he expected its the one worry that has stalled me with this design :rolleyes:

BUT... mate she is drop dead gorgeous isnt she? If memory serves plans are about $350USD from Bolger

Apologiez for the hyjack fellas! :o

[Daddles]

Bloody Bolger. You get so used to seeing his ugly designs that when something like this pops up, it hurts. She's lovely alright. Go on mate, send Bolger a sob story about the flood, get new plans and get started. We'll even help you ruin ... er ... redesign it ;)

Richard

[Wild Dingo]

sigh... I tried that Richard... sigh... but he never got back to me :( other than to say "plans for St Valery are $350USD" :( hard man that one... but note here James Wharram did the same even though his plans were over $3000!!! but no return or replacement came my way... as did half a dozen others the only one who sent a replacement set was Mike Stevenson of his Weekender although I had bought all 3 of their designs (Weekender, Vacationer and Pilot boat) and lost the lot he only sent the weekender one... no worries at least he did some didnt even return my calls or emails :rolleyes:... ah well not gripin or whingin just cogitatin on some peoples responses compared to others... no worries :cool:

On the other hand as I say she is my number 1 choice :cool: ... I keep comin back to her... must get to and send the cheque before he does a Ken Hankinson on me and retires takin his designs with him into retirement and I ruddy miss out... again... sigh :o

St Valery fits my EVERY criteria :cool:... well other than over the horizon sailing but thats okay too

She do look "just right" dont she? sigh ;)

[mcchaddy]

I have just started building a Replica Chris Craft BarrelBack 19'. Hopefully it will look something like this.

[Wild Dingo]

So whats it look like now? ;)

Pics if you please! Dont mind if its just the lofting or its the building jig or the frames doesnt matter!! We are visual animals mate :cool:

[Boatmik]

Mate Animals

Huh

Dingo School of Animal Husbandry.

[Wild Dingo]

Dingos school of animal (and other wierd creatures... Miks daddles etc) husbandry lesson 101a :D

Animals are visionary creatures... they see everything they know everything they are everything... just ask and mongrel cat!

Animals are also visual animals... they need scenery, views and sights to stimulate their other sences

So in conclusion class... Always ask a cat before assuming anything... always provide pictures of everything before assuming anything other than that the cat knows everything... always provide visual stimulation to encourage educate and titilate your animal or other weird creature albeit a Mik a daddles a scallywag a mcchaddy or any number of other creatures

Thank you for attending :cool:

Dingos school of animal husbandry 101b will be held later in the semester please remember to bring along your sence of humor your bullshyteprotector wear and of course most importantly your splatter avoidance techneques! but please leave your flamin mongrel cat at home... damned things consistantly presume they know more than a Dingo does and thats just plain wrong cause we all know a Dingo is part of the canine family and thats a whole mess of creatures of brilliance exemplary natures and utter survivalability... cats are just knowitall furballs :p

Cheers

Hey I still want visual stimulation here!

[Daddles]

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d114/bitsa/shadowavatar.jpg

TTTTBBBBBHHHHH

[mcchaddy]

Before I start on the full scale boat. I thought i would build this 1/8th scale model first(Chris Craft Barrelback 19ft replica). I have finished all the ply planking and decks(no Photo's yet) and have started laying the mahogany planks on the hull. It is very similar to making the full scale boat. Using a cold molded strip plank method of building over frames.

I Have started marking out frames and building the form for the full scale boat. Need to decide what motor to but in it. Was thinking of either and old 253 V8 holden or a new 3.8lt V6 out of a VN/VP commodore. Any suggestions on either.

[catbuilder]

253 Holden V8 - Red Motor:) , bullet proof, have one in my work ute, had it for 9 years and was a B&S Ball machine before I got it, so it had a hard life before I started flogging it:rolleyes: . 9 years = oil change every now and again, never had any other work on it or repairs:) . VP Series II V6 in family car so far so good also:) .

Matt