Turning thin without breakage

[reeves]

HI' ya'all, i jave had some recent requests for Crochet hooks and have been developing a few, they seem to work pretty well.

The problem i am having is with exactly how thin u can turn a piece of wood without it breaking.

Crochet hooks have standard sizings and the 1 and 2 US sizing is 2 to 3 mm.

I have some hooks at about 4 mm, pictured and i have another 'needle' down to 3 mm. These are in Tassie Myrtle. I cant seem to get any thinner as the pressure of the steb center jsut bends the wood. I have done the ones i have by cutting down as thin as looks good then sanding thinner.

Does anyone have any expereince with turning this thin ?

I am figuring maybe a smaller lathe that turns at higher speeds may help, as would a small chuck on the tailstock end that grips the spindle but doesnt put forward pressure on it.

any ideas or experience would be helpful.

cheeeeers
john

[TimberNut]

Hey Reeves,

check my post in this thread. It's a simple device that's very easy to make and useful for supporting real thin stuff turned between centres

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=32873

[Wood Butcher]

Reeves, have you got any other centers other than the steb to try? Maybe a standard centre without the springloaded pin might be better?

[TTIT]

The expensive option would be to use pin-jaws but if you don't have a chuck that's not much help to you. One method might be to mount a piece if scrap on a face plate, drill a hole to suit your blank and tap it in. Doesn't take much force to hold something like that for turning.:)
OR, you could make a mini chuck for a couple of dollars if you have an old drill laying around. You can buy morse tapers real cheap on Ebay that have threads to suit most of the small drill chucks. With all the el-cheapo battery drills around that are pretty much throw-away as the batteries don't last more than a half dozen recharges, these little chucks are easy to come by.:D

More recycling - gotta luv it!!!:D

PS: The hooks you've done so far look great!

[Toasty]

if you have an old drill laying around. You can buy morse tapers real cheap on Ebay that have threads to suit most of the small drill chucks
Ahhhh CRAP I just threw away a dead battery drill!!! I wonder if it is still in the garbage... :mad:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

The problem i am having is with exactly how thin u can turn a piece of wood without it breaking.

Crochet hooks have standard sizings and the 1 and 2 US sizing is 2 to 3 mm.

I have some hooks at about 4 mm, pictured and i have another 'needle' down to 3 mm. These are in Tassie Myrtle. I cant seem to get any thinner as the

I've tried my hand at the occasional long, thin piece. It's an educational experience! :D High speed helps, as does finger support, but one good trick I've found is to use a small drill bit to prebore the tailstock end. Only about 5mm deep or so, but enough that my tailstock cente will seat in & hold it central without actually appliying pressure. I've also use a brad in a jacob's chuck (ex-batt. drill job. :D:D ) to act as an axle with the less co-operative woods. This is fine for lengths up to around 5" but anything longer than that and you'll need a centre support.

For long straight sections, I'll only turn down to about 3-4mm... until things start to get scary, then use a strip of s/paper and sand it down to final size. Cheating, I know, but s/paper's a lot more forgiving of flex than a HSS tool. :o

Forget about 3-point roller steadies, they don't close down enough... I prefer to use a string cradle, like TimberNut mentioned. It's a simple matter to knock up a batch of 'em at a time, so you can turn long, thin items. Trembleurs are a good example. (Google is your friend. ;) )

You'll also find that you've got to be VERY fussy what timbers you use.. fine, straight grained timbers are the only choice unless you don't mind 'em disintegrating the first time someone oohs and ahhs too enthusiastically. :eek:

[reeves]

Thanks for the good responses guys,.a few i have been using like the sanding down and the non spring loaded center, others, specially the list from Skew (good brain man!) i will have a look at. i did have a go at the small cradle but it doesnt seemto make any difference, cept marking the wood, it still flexes a little.

I saw a wool supplies site on the web www.dropspindle.info that has the no. 1's and 2's.

I have some needle jaws and a headstock drill chuck so i may see if i can make it spin on either end.

I told the potential customer who asked that i can do the US no 2 size (3mm) but not the no 1 (2 1/2mm) so i am happy enuf. Besides its a bit of a pain in the #### turing thin...challenging but i wouldnt wanna do it all day

[JDarvall]

Love that string idea.

My only concern is......how many of these setups do I use, and how I'm gonna fix the bed.

Great tip that. Thanks.

[rsser]

FWIW, in Australian Woodturning Projects (2002) there's a piece by Raffan on turning drumsticks.

Not nearly as thin as a small crochet hook, but he supports the stock by steering the skew with the right hand while laying the left palm over the skew on the rest and running the fingers over the stock and supporting it with fingertips on the rear side.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I won't use a skew or a gouge on thin turnings... one catch and it's good-bye, so long, don't forget to write.

'Tis another case where I advocate a scraper, however I like to deburr it first, else the burr can catch and pull the tool out of your hand and under the wood... where it has all the effect of a crow-bar. :eek: Deburring means less efficient cutting, but using the scraper skewed makes up for it to a degree.

I use a similar method to what Ern describes for the skew: RH holding & steering the tool, with the thumbon the toolrest (to act as a pivot) and my first knuckle just toughing the side of the rest. I use the knuckle to control feed in/out from the centre. With my LH I rest the heel on the end of the toolrest and curl my fingers over the top of the piece to support mainly the opposite side to where the tool is contacting, although my index and little fingers tend to support the side of the piece to prevent lateral flex.

Hard to describe, much, much easier to do. :rolleyes:

Apricot, you use as many as you need. Not much help, I know, but to give you an idea, the last trembleur I recall attempting was about 14" long and I think I used 4. (The trembleur failed, but that was due to bad choice of timber rather than method. That's my story, anyway. ;) ) I tend to make my string-steadies from ply and throw 'em away after I'm finished; I've heaps of scrap ply, they're simple to make and I've enough clutter as it is. :o It's the same setup as a banjo... a bit of wood that fits nicely beteen the bed-rails, a piece on top and bottom to act as clamps and a coach-bolt (preferably with a wingnut) to pull it all together.

If it'll help, I'll knock one up tomorrow and post some pix.

Shall I shut up now? :p

[rsser]

Nah, don't shut up ... rabbit on as much as you like. Good value ;-}

I deburr with soft and hard woods - medium density seems to work OK with scrapers.

[JDarvall]

Ta Skew, no definetly don't stop. Excuse, I'm still a bit new to this lathe lingo.

But I think I get ya. wood on top and below and bolt to bind, to hold the piece thats got all the string works on it, sitting around your needle stick....so this way you can stop it whipping about, but still can slide the whole jig along the bed rails just by loosening the wingnut, out of the way of your tools, as you go...yes ?

So, is that just one of the setups ?.....so you had something like 4 of them over 14"...thats 4 bolts etc..... seems a bit cluttered .....is there enough room to move these string jiggys about to get your blades in ? .....:o Worried I'm picturing this wrong.

Another silly question.......we are talking about turning between centres eh ? .....so, that means your turning this needle stick to 3mm (or whatever) from stock that thick enough to be griped safely by the head and tails stocks to begin with...yes ? ......So, when your done, you've got thick pieces of timber remaining at the tail and head, and a thin stick between, and you just saw the thick bits off....right ? :D :o

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

But I think I get ya. wood on top and below and bolt to bind, to hold the piece thats got all the string works on it, sitting around your needle stick....so this way you can stop it whipping about, but still can slide the whole jig along the bed rails just by loosening the wingnut, out of the way of your tools, as you go...yes ?

So, is that just one of the setups ?.....so you had something like 4 of them over 14"...thats 4 bolts etc..... seems a bit cluttered .....is there enough room to move these string jiggys about to get your blades in ? .....:o Worried I'm picturing this wrong.

Nup, you seem to have it. I start from the tailstock end and work back towards the headstock, turning and finishing just an inch or so at a time. As soon as it starts to flex (or even if I think it will) I slap in a cradle just to the right of where I'm working. So there's always access without cradles from both in front and from the LH side. I always try to keep the last two as close together as possible for increased support, but any others that're supporting what's been finished can be re-adjusted further apart. Within reason, of course.

It can get a bit cramped once you get to the headstock end though...

Looking over the above it all sounds soooo complicated, but it's not. One quick 5 min demonstration in person and it'd all be sooo obvious. [sigh]


Another silly question.......we are talking about turning between centres eh ? .....so, that means your turning this needle stick to 3mm (or whatever) from stock that thick enough to be griped safely by the head and tails stocks to begin with...yes ? ......So, when your done, you've got thick pieces of timber remaining at the tail and head, and a thin stick between, and you just saw the thick bits off....right ? :D :o

Basically. Except I do NOT recommend using a drivespur on the headstock end, 'cos to get it to grip you need to apply pressure from the tailstock... which will makes things bow. End-pressure is the enemy. You only want enough tailstock pressure to more or less hold the thing in place. A rule of thumb I use is that if I can't stop the tailspur from revolving with my fingers (while the lathe is running) then the tailstock is too tight.

So... little or no tailstock pressure means a drivespur doesn't have much grip. To work around this you could use a jacob's chuck & morse-taper instead of a drivespur. But a morse-taper also really needs some end-pressure to hold it firmly... my personal preference is a scrollchuck with pinjaws. It's a case of working with what ya got. You could even mount a disk to a small faceplate, drill a hole in the middle and hot-melt glue the end of the stick into that. Almost ANYTHING except a drivespur!

Having waffled on about all that, the end-result is still the same... a long stick with larger bits at both ends that usually need to be trimmed off. :o

[ribot]

Use whatever works for you in the headstock.
When it gets down to the nitty gritty,
use your thumb and pointer finger (behind the spindle) to support the spindle from flexing and use a sharp skew chisel to scrape/cut the wood.
Your two fingers should be so close to your skew that you are probably in contact with it.
Don't force the tool, let it cut at the rate it wants to.
#Once you have the spindle thin, back off the live centre on the tailstock, you will hear a different sound when you back off the pressure enought. The live centre should not be spinning now.
# if your fingers get hot then you are gripping or pushing tool to hard.
Hope this helps.
# I have also used a parting tool (sharp) held on a similar angle to a skew and scraped thin spindles.
I can get them thinner than three mm but thats usually to thin for what i'm turning (lace bobbins).
#Species of timber is a fair consideration also. Look for long grained timbers.
That's about it for me, good luck.

[JDarvall]

Ta Skew and ribot,,,,,,helping me plenty,,,,confirms things,,,,,,thanks.

So no drivespur. Unfortunetly thats all I've got. Moneys too short to be buying chucks and the like......how about a make shift drive screw ?....Are you shore about that glue idea ? sounds a bit too weak.

I don't have a live centre either. Always used just a waxed up static one. Whats your take on live centres ? .....Which ones shouldn't I buy ?

While I'm picking your brain:o ,,,,,,,how do you go about burnishing profile blades. Do you bother ?

I did this the other day,,,,, making some knobs.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=34252
(checkout the pictures in post 7)

I just sharpened the bevel at 70 degrees and backed off fairly ruffly, but I didn't burnish........the blade cut cleanly, but slowly, and blunted pretty quickly. Had me backing off the blade after every knob. The bluntening was probably cause it was just regular carbon steel and not say HSS.

But would've a hook have helped you reakon ? ....and how would you go about it. I've no idea how I'd get a burnishing rod into the tight corners of the profile.

Thanks. :)

[ribot]

re the live centre. I like them but have only ever had one so I can't compare it to anything else.
You don't have one but it should'nt matter.
Turn it thin and then back of the pressure at the tailstock.
##Personally I like the suggestion of drilling a hole into some faceplated timber. takes all the pressure off the spindle once you back off the tailstock.
Hotmelt glue works. I think there is an issue on quality of the glue though, can't help you there.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

So no drivespur. Unfortunetly thats all I've got. Moneys too short to be buying chucks and the like......how about a make shift drive screw ?....Are you shore about that glue idea ? sounds a bit too weak.

I don't have a live centre either. Always used just a waxed up static one. Whats your take on live centres ? .....Which ones shouldn't I buy ?

If we could all afford to buy the appropriate commercial tool for any given job, these forums would be little more than social chatter. ;) A drive screw should work, ditto for glue.

Personally I don't think it matters which centre you have. I think I've mentioned that occasionally I'll use a brad in a jacob's chuck as a dead centre at times? There's a whole range of live centres, steb centres, interchangeable centres, etc. out there... and AFAICT there's no major difference in 'em apart from quality issues. Sloppy bearings, etc.

Some hold certain shapes better than others, but it's a bit like arguing over whether a Holden Rodeo or a BMW is better before you even have a driver's license. :rolleyes:


While I'm picking your brain:o ,,,,,,,how do you go about burnishing profile blades. Do you bother ?
[...]
I just sharpened the bevel at 70 degrees and backed off fairly ruffly, but I didn't burnish........the blade cut cleanly, but slowly, and blunted pretty quickly. Had me backing off the blade after every knob. The bluntening was probably cause it was just regular carbon steel and not say HSS.

I don't bother... else I'd spend more time sharpening/burnishing than cutting. To be honest, I don't like using profiled blades beyomd very basic shapes, precisely 'cos they're too much effort to keep sharp and IMHO don't give the best finish anyway. I'm inherently lazy, I want max. finish for min. effort from my powertools. Else I'd be darksiding.

The same basic cutting principles apply to turning tools as apply to hand-planes. As you know, (I've seen your thread! :D ) a skewed blade cuts better and keeps its' edge longer than working square across the grain. This is why I use a basic scraper at a skewed angle... and rely on skill, patience, measurements and a helluva lot of luck to get accurate copies. :rolleyes:

The CS instead of HSS certainly doesn't help, but I think the real problem is that in sharpening by backing off the blade you're not creating a burr. And it's the burr that does most of the cutting on in scraper mode. I think this is true of scraper-planes as well?

[JDarvall]

Ta ribot and skew.


Some hold certain shapes better than others, but it's a bit like arguing over whether a Holden Rodeo or a BMW is better before you even have a driver's license. :rolleyes:

:D Ta. I won't put much thought into it then. stick with me wax a static tailstock.

Surprised about the glue I must say. Hot glue gun you say ? That stuff granny uses to stick her paper daisys together with ? buy it at craft stores. Dribbles off in big strings like cheeze off a pizza ?



I don't bother... else I'd spend more time sharpening/burnishing than cutting. To be honest, I don't like using profiled blades beyomd very basic shapes, precisely 'cos they're too much effort to keep sharp and IMHO don't give the best finish anyway. I'm inherently lazy, I want max. finish for min. effort from my powertools. Else I'd be darksiding.

Well, you've got me there. I thought the idea behind these profile blades was to speed things up, cause you don't have to fiddle about with marking out and spindle gourges to get identical pieces the same.

As long as you can keep the thing sharp I suppose. When I cut those profiles from the plane blades I only ground the bevel once. Whenever it bluntened I wouldn't touch the bevel, I'd just lap the back hard ,,,,,that way I didn't have to fiddle about spending a great deal of time ensuring I didn't stuff the profile up......I thought that made the process justifiable.



The same basic cutting principles apply to turning tools as apply to hand-planes. As you know, (I've seen your thread! :D ) a skewed blade cuts better and keeps its' edge longer than working square across the grain. This is why I use a basic scraper at a skewed angle... and rely on skill, patience, measurements and a helluva lot of luck to get accurate copies. :rolleyes:

The CS instead of HSS certainly doesn't help, but I think the real problem is that in sharpening by backing off the blade you're not creating a burr. And it's the burr that does most of the cutting on in scraper mode. I think this is true of scraper-planes as well?

Interesting stuff this I think. I've got skewed blades on the brain right now.
This is how it makes sense to me....

I think your right. Its all about removing material with the grain. Ideally slicing it off rather than scratching it off. But as long as the blade moves with the grain. Same stuff as with cross grain work with planes.

And I think your right, if you take a square blade straight(like a normal bench chisel) into the centre of the turning.....thats not slicing, thats tearing, cause the blades taking big hits on the same fibres all at once.

but I think taking a profiled blade in is different, if you drag it a little below the centre of the turning, the curves begin to remove material with the grain (excepting the very top of the hills and valleys). Mate, I do make lots of mistakes, and it took me forever to picture all the angles in me head, but I'm certain of it. :D

I'm certain because the angles are similar to those I aim for when shaping a plane blade to cut well with the grain. And the finish I got when pushing those profiles in (from those pictures) in was pretty good I thought. Those pictures are straight from the blade. No sandpapeeer. I don't know how I could have ever done them better by swooping in a spindle gouge.....But then, I'm bloody useless with normal lather tools. :D

So, even though I didn't have a burr on the blade, and there was a lot of scratching going on, because the blades were angling in over the fibres and not catching under them, the finish was good.....if that makes sense.

you think I'm a ####en nutter don't ya :D

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Surprised about the glue I must say. Hot glue gun you say ? That stuff granny uses to stick her paper daisys together with ? buy it at craft stores. Dribbles off in big strings like cheeze off a pizza ?

Clear plastic sticks you put into a "heat-gun" and make spaghetti with. Yeah, that's the stuff. :) It's surprising how effective (and how many applications it has) in turning. Best thing is, to seperate it later ya can just bang it in the microwave or blow it with a hairdryer.


Well, you've got me there. I thought the idea behind these profile blades was to speed things up, cause you don't have to fiddle about with marking out and spindle gourges to get identical pieces the same.

As long as you can keep the thing sharp I suppose. When I cut those profiles from the plane blades I only ground the bevel once. Whenever it bluntened I wouldn't touch the bevel, I'd just lap the back hard ,,,,,that way I didn't have to fiddle about spending a great deal of time ensuring I didn't stuff the profile up......I thought that made the process justifiable.

In turning metal, that's true. Not really so with wood. The thing is, mounting a plane-blade backwards won't make it work well as a scraper plane. Try dragging a razor-blade backwards over yer fore-arm and I bet it doesn't shave. It's not cutting, it's just slowly abrading the hair away. For a scraper blade to cut it needs the burr left behind. The bevel's really only an artifact left over from creating the burr... as well as helping to support it.

These backward angled blades are whole new world of thinking in themselves. :D


Interesting stuff this I think. I've got skewed blades on the brain right now. This is how it makes sense to me....
[...]
but I think taking a profiled blade in is different, if you drag it a little below the centre of the turning, the curves begin to remove material with the grain (excepting the very top of the hills and valleys). Mate, I do make lots of mistakes, and it took me forever to picture all the angles in me head, but I'm certain of it. :D

So the blade's profiled to suit the angle you're cutting on and not to match the final knob profile? Smart lad, you've certainly given it some thought. :) I was a bit wary of brining it up, I'm glad I don't have to. It usually takes a while to explain... people can't seem to get past the idea that a profile & a template are two different things... and a profile doesn't have to be introduced square on. :rolleyes:

But, as I've said (and will probably repeat frequently over the next few years) a scraper really needs the burr to cut properly. Sure, it'll work so-so without one but to make it cut better and hold it's edge longer, well... :D To make a burr you need to work the bevel, which'll change the overall profile slightly unless you make minor corrections, which makes 'em fiddly to use.

Of course, your way does work. I won't try to say that what you've accomplished so far is a figment of your imagination. ;) But it's like comparing the aforementioned skewed plane to one cutting square across the grain. There's a noticeable improvement... if you're willing to put up with the inconveniences that go with it.


So, even though I didn't have a burr on the blade, and there was a lot of scratching going on, because the blades were angling in over the fibres and not catching under them, the finish was good.....if that makes sense.

It does. I'd hazard a guess and say you're using a forgiving timber too. Like most any w/work, that's also a major factor. Try the same profile with oregon, radiata or a similar wood with "loose" grain structure and let me know what you think. :p


you think I'm a ####en nutter don't ya :D

Not at all! Take everything you know about plane blades and it will still apply to turning chisels. Except that the rules of sharpening are stood on their head. Throw in a few other complications, such as some tools need to be bevel-rubbed while others shouldn't, etc., etc. and then you're getting close to nuthouse territory.

Especially once you get into making your own turning tools. :rolleyes:

[JDarvall]

Clear plastic sticks you put into a "heat-gun" and make spaghetti with. Yeah, that's the stuff. :) It's surprising how effective (and how many applications it has) in turning. Best thing is, to seperate it later ya can just bang it in the microwave or blow it with a hairdryer.
:
Ta. Well, I'm going to have to get a gun....and a dryer (or create a stink, by pinching the wifes:D )



In turning metal, that's true. Not really so with wood. The thing is, mounting a plane-blade backwards won't make it work well as a scraper plane. Try dragging a razor-blade backwards over yer fore-arm and I bet it doesn't shave. It's not cutting, it's just slowly abrading the hair away. For a scraper blade to cut it needs the burr left behind. The bevel's really only an artifact left over from creating the burr... as well as helping to support it.
:
I agree entirely. A burrs a good thing.

I took a photo of a photo from that leneod lee book ' A complete guide to sharpening' ......I've attached it to this post.....What do ya think ? ...Its a jig with a carbide rod sticking out to burnish your scraper at 10 degrees...Which I thought was clever. Probably been around for years. I don't know.

Anyway, I was thinking of making up something similar to burr into the valleys and over the hills of those rough profiles I made from those plane blades. But with a smaller rod....something real small to get into those tight curves, like an old 2mm HSS drill bit shank maybe.....Maybe just drill it into a block of wood at about 10 degrees, loosen the chuck and just leave it there.....clamp the wood in the vise and burnish away sort of thing.

How would that fail do you think ? .....and also....:o (sorry mate)

do you know of thrifty way of getting hold of HSS blanks ? Decent sized. Thinking it be better than those carbon steel plane blades.



So the blade's profiled to suit the angle you're cutting on and not to match the final knob profile? Smart lad, you've certainly given it some thought. :) I was a bit wary of brining it up, I'm glad I don't have to. It usually takes a while to explain... people can't seem to get past the idea that a profile & a template are two different things... and a profile doesn't have to be introduced square on. :rolleyes:
:
oh don't think I'm being that clever Skew.....the simple picture I had in my head was, that with the blade going in below the centre of the turning, had all curves going off the valleys in my blade cutting (I mean scratching:p ) with the grain. That sort of told me.......' as long as I point it in below, draging the blade, similar to how a card scraper leans forward the thing will make a smooth cut, regardless of how the profile waved about. '.....which mean't just deciding on what profile. Anyway forget it. I'm confusing myself now.



But, as I've said (and will probably repeat frequently over the next few years) a scraper really needs the burr to cut properly. Sure, it'll work so-so without one but to make it cut better and hold it's edge longer, well... :D To make a burr you need to work the bevel, which'll change the overall profile slightly unless you make minor corrections, which makes 'em fiddly to use.
:
Good point..... still thinking its worth a try, at least for my own education....Thinking now-> sharpen the bevel intially, buff the contours of the bevel slightly on occation with carving buffer (probably start to round a bit, so not too much)....but generally to sharpen just back off heavily.....maybe even with a coarse grit first to rip off the previous bluntening, then jap stone to clean up a bit, then burnish with this drill bit in the block idea (fingers, toes, testicles crossed) and hopefully find a HSS blade 3" thick to begin with, to deal with all that backing off :rolleyes: :D



I'd hazard a guess and say you're using a forgiving timber too. Like most any w/work, that's also a major factor. Try the same profile with oregon, radiata or a similar wood with "loose" grain structure and let me know what you think. :p

Probably right. I don't know what I used actually. Pinched it off the MIL's wood chop pile. Pretty shore its red gum. But I've given up trying to be clever in remembering wood species.

But, I know what you mean. Begining to think its a good general test of skill.....ie. being able to cut #### soft timber well cross grain. Similar problems with cross grain hand planing. But even worse with lathe work, I'd imagine, with all that speed.

I'll sharpen up the profile plane blade as best I can and try it out on some radiata....and see what happens. Guessing the hills in the profile will rip out in places.....see what happens. :D . Ta mate . Good talking with you.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I took a photo of a photo from that leneod lee book ' A complete guide to sharpening' ......I've attached it to this post.....What do ya think ? ...Its a jig with a carbide rod sticking out to burnish your scraper at 10 degrees...Which I thought was clever. Probably been around for years. I don't know.
[...]
How would that fail do you think ?

I'll let you know after I try it. :D It's a new one to me, but I'm no Raffan. Sounds like it'd be almost perfect for profiled scrapers... and it might have me rethinking a few ideas too. ;)


do you know of thrifty way of getting hold of HSS blanks ? Decent sized. Thinking it be better than those carbon steel plane blades.

McJing (http://www.mcjing.com.au) is the first commercial supplier to pop to mind... check out both their "woodworking/turning tools" and "engineering/turning tools" sections. I'm not sure whether they carry stock suitable for profiling though. About 6" x 1.5" x 3/8" is probaby the widest, from memory. (At least, that's the largest I remember drooling over. :o )

The big ol' multihead moulder I used to operate for a crust took solid HSS knives but I can't get any more of them, dammit. If there's any joinery's near you, it wouldn't hurt to ask about their throwaways.


oh don't think I'm being that clever Skew.....the simple picture I had in my head was, that with the blade going in below the centre of the turning, had all curves going off the valleys in my blade cutting (I mean scratching:p ) with the grain.

Yeah, but you thought about it before having an "uhoh" moment. :D


Good point..... still thinking its worth a try, at least for my own education....Thinking now-> sharpen the bevel intially, buff the contours of the bevel slightly on occation with carving buffer (probably start to round a bit, so not too much)....but generally to sharpen just back off heavily.....maybe even with a coarse grit first to rip off the previous bluntening, then jap stone to clean up a bit, then burnish with this drill bit in the block idea (fingers, toes, testicles crossed) and hopefully find a HSS blade 3" thick to begin with, to deal with all that backing off :rolleyes: :D

By all means, go ahead! I'll be interested in your findings, too. It may not be suitable for production turning but if it works for you, that's all that matters, right? I use a few... ermmm... "frowned upon" methods I also like to use. And it's always nice to have an alternative method up your sleeve, for those times when more traditional methods just don't cut it. (Sorry... couldn't resist that. :o )


Probably right. I don't know what I used actually. Pinched it off the MIL's wood chop pile. Pretty shore its red gum. But I've given up trying to be clever in remembering wood species.

You'n'me both. I really, really, REALLY wish I'd taken the extra few mins to label each bit of wood in my curing shed after cutting/stacking it instead of thinking "Oh, I know what that is" and pissing off for a well-earned brew. [sigh]

[rsser]

Apricot,

The device you posted a pic of can be purchased. One is made by Veritas. See the Timbecon online catalogue.

Claims are that it actually raises an edge, not just a burr.

Never used one but would be interested in what it can do.

[JDarvall]

I'll let you know after I try it. :D It's a new one to me, but I'm no Raffan. Sounds like it'd be almost perfect for profiled scrapers... and it might have me rethinking a few ideas too. ;)


I'll try it too when I get a chance and post here. But who knows. Might be crap too. Spose just have to keep trying. :)

Ta for the link. And I'll make a visit to the local boys,,,,try and catch em in a smoko and ask about throwaway blades.....it'll have em rolling their eyes, and calling me a bloody scrounger though...betya. :D

And thanks Rsser..... didn't know you could buy them. I'll check it out.

:)

[rsser]

Sorry, should've been clearer: it's designed for a handled scraper since it needs the shaft of the HSS to lever off.

[reeves]

i ahve been using a diamond honing pad after grinding the shape. This helps a lot keeping a good edge without too much drama or loss of steel.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Sorry, should've been clearer: it's designed for a handled scraper since it needs the shaft of the HSS to lever off.

If apricot's planning on using it for any length of time, I'm sure it'll end up spouting a handle of one form or another. :D

Hmmm... that could be an interesting project in its' own right. No, no, I've enough on my plate, I don't need any more. Get out of my head! Out, out damned spot! Bloody ideas, circling around like birds of prey... I can see it'll be another sleepless night... :rolleyes:

[rsser]

Yep, you got the bug Skew ;-}

Time for more machines and materials - not a cure, only a palliative.

[rsser]

btw, like Reeves, I touch up my tools with a diamond lap to keep them fresh. Suspect too much since comparing with an off-the-wheel touch up. Could have been getting a dual bevel.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Ditto the diamond lap for my gouges and more... "normal" scrapers.

But they're not much chop on concave profiles. I used to use a SS burnishing rod (salvage from an old dot-matrix printer) for my ring- & hook-tools, but I don't now. Not sure why; probably 'cos I don't use 'em often and am inherently lazy. :o

I like the idea of that plate... something that can just be clamped near the lathe and is always there, convenient to hand.

[bdar]

Reeves don't know if this will help but this was a site that had some info on crochet hooks, hope it helps, http://www.turnedtreasures.com/project.html/crochet_hook.html
Cheers
Darren

[OGYT]

Ta ribot and skew.
Surprised about the glue I must say. Hot glue gun you say ? That stuff granny uses to stick her paper daisys together with ? buy it at craft stores. Dribbles off in big strings like cheeze off a pizza ?

That's the same glue, alright, but you can get an industrial strength, which will hold a waste block to your turning.:) Granny's isn't quite strong enough for that.;)

[La truciolara]

I think that training on the use of oval skew, or even better the bedan with the bevel on the right side, i.e. uppermost, is a very good way to turning thin pieces. The instruments cuts the wood rather that tearing it which require a lighter pressure on the wood thus preventing most of the wobbling.<O:p</O:p
When reaching close to the thickness desire, hold the skew with one hand, (preferably the left one) and oppose pressure with a finger directly on the opposite part of the wood.<O:p</O:p