Cheap source for hardwood for workbench top

[MarpleMan]

I am in the process of making a workbench. The base is finished and now I need to source a hardwood for the top.

My plan is to make the top 750mm wide by 1800 long by about 80 mm thick. I can dress and laminate myself to get to this dimension.

I am looking at about 0.12 cu m

Can anyone tell me a cheap source of hardwood in the Melbourne area?

Thanks,

[seriph1]

perhaps remilled flooring with the tongues removed? I know they will only be 19mm thick, but it will be very strong - you'll need 39 of them though, so it will probably price itself out of the market. 80mm seems a very thick benchtop. I would've thought (not that I am any kind of expert) that 40mm would be sufficient, supported underneath by a sheet of 19mm particle board. Another alternative might be 2 sheets of 19mm particle board and used hardwood flooring on the top...... just some ideas

[Carry Pine]

I used blue gum flooring (25mm) and it's a solid as. Does your top need to be that thick?
Carry Pine

[echnidna]

Why on earth do you want it that thick?

[E. maculata]

I have 1 bench at 100mm thick, my "thumping" bench, absolute overkill and truth be known I only have it because I could:p . A decent strength hardwood of 35-40mm is more than enough at a min F-17 for anything I could imagine dishing out, and would need no support whatsoever underneath:) .

[Flowboy]

Hi Marpleman,

There's a place called "damn serious demolitions" just down the road from Bunnings in Preston (just over the Darrebin Creek bridge on Bell Street) They have quite a range of timber floor boars etc at reasonable prices. If you want Oregon, Danahers are quite reasonable at depths to 42mm.

Regards,

Rob

[IanW]

Can anyone tell me a cheap source of hardwood in the Melbourne area?
Thanks,

Wot? No skips in Melbourne? :D

I agree that recycled is the way to go if you can get some half decent stuff at a half decent price. If it's been chucked out in the weather, for a while, it would need drying and stabilising again for a while for use in a top.

The general rule of thumb for a bench is, the heavier the better, but I do agree with the sentiments expressed above - 80mm does seem a bit over the top if you intend it to be that thickness right across. With good solid hardwoods, & depending on bench size and span, you should only need 50mm max., over most areas, with 65-80mm over the dog-hole areas. And depending on vice(s) selected, a front apron of about 120-150mm may be desirable.
I'm only thinking of total weight. It can get out of hand very quickly with our high-density hardwoods. You gotta be able to lift this baby onto its legs, at some stage!
I built my main w'working bench when I was a lot younger, and don't remember having anywhere near the problem getting the top back in place as I did recentlty when re-assembling the thing :eek: . So maybe I'm just scarred from that experience - I'm hoping I don't have to shift it ever again.

Cheers,

[MarpleMan]

Decided to go with F17. Bought 190X45 DAR. 4 X 2.1 m lengths for $137 from Delta in Port Melbourne.

Should weigh about 60kgs!

Thanks for your help

[DanP]

A traditional workbench typically has a laminated top up to 3" thick.

Dan

[seriph1]

I know the material very well ..... and the company - theyre clients of mine ..... did you like the various displays?
:D

[havenoideaatall]

Decided to go with F17. Bought 190X45 DAR. 4 X 2.1 m lengths for $137 from Delta in Port Melbourne.

Should weigh about 60kgs!

Thanks for your help

I used the same. 2 F17s of 180x45DAR form 2 "lintels" <groan> <GROAN>on the edges of the work bench, a vice fits to one edge; and in between, I've got some MDF which is strong enough and gets replaced as is. If it needed to be stronger I might get more F17 or use wooden floorboards. There's also a hollow in the bench - the MDF and support is not 45mm - useful so things don't fall or get knocked off.