Ugly but it works

[Bob38S]

Decide to place this post here instead of the router forum as it could be of use to others as well. eg circular saw, jigsaw

I don't do much hand held routing [mostly table] but had occasion to do some trenching to fit pseudo T'track [sail track] - none of my bits were big enough to do it in one go - we have all been in the situation where we have had to make a groove slightly wider so I came up with this jig - not pretty but it works.

The overall workable size is just over 1m in length, the box section is 75mm x 15mm, the "L" holding the turnbuckle is actually 10mm stainless - I raided the throwout bin at the local fabrication place - you end up using what is available.
The so called trick to this jig is actually the turnbuckles, just make sure that you get the locknut type - no these I had to pay for at the sailing shop.

The jig is sitting on black laminate for clarity.

You can remove one of the split rings and pin and then just use one side as a single straight edge as per usual.

This jig allow plenty of width for parallel routing but can also taper a groove by "dialing" the turnbuckles to whichever width required.

Pix 1 = Overview
2 = Max width available 220mm
3 = Min width available 140mm
4 = View from underneath - pieces of angle to locate jig - the odd shape on the outside edges of this angle is for clamp access
5 = Split ring and pin removed and edge used as a single straight edge.

Any extra info required - let me know.
Regards,
Bob

[Ironwood]

good thinkin 99, i like it. have made up similar thing out of scrap timber screwed together from time to time, but every job is a bit different, so i have to make a new setup each time. might copy yours when i get some spare shed time:) :cool: :)

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I made something similar, except using fixed length stock in place of your turnbuckles. One end had a turnbuckle as a brace, which'd rack the jig to desired spacing.

Yours has less working parts and is more versatile... mine only does parallels, although I think it'd be a lot quicker to adjust. I can see myself making a clone of yours, just to get the best of both worlds. :) Or maybe just replace the end w/out the brace with a t/buckle to get a hybrid? Hmmm...

[BobL]

Any extra info required - let me know.
Regards,
Bob

Bob,
I was about to make something along these lines and you have just saved me a lot of time.
Q: What are those long side bits made of, they look like Al door frame extrusions?
Thanks
Bob

[Bob38S]

Bob,
I was about to make something along these lines and you have just saved me a lot of time.
Q: What are those long side bits made of, they look like Al door frame extrusions?
Thanks
Bob

G'day Bob,
Not sure what you would call the box section but it is 75mm wide and only 15mm high x 1.6mm thickness - I tried other sections but my router has a staging depth dial which actually sticks out beyond the circumference of the base - using 15mm high section allows this dial to pass over the top of the sides. The alum. when viewed from the end does have an extruded groove which is similar to grooves for attaching a cord sort of thing - like on a caravan annex.
I picked up 12 bits of this stuff [1m to 1.2m in length] from the scrap bin - dead straight and reasonably clean :D:D:D
Have used it as guides for joining corners for drawers etc and for clamping panels etc and it works fine. If a clamp is tightened in the middle of the 75mm it will deflect slightly but not if clamped near the edges.
Hope it helps,
Bob
PS I'm also looking at using the turnbuckles idea as levellers for my planer in/out feed tables.

[BobL]

Bob,
Thanks.
Bob

BTW anyone know if there are more Bobs on the forum than any other name?

[echnidna]

dunno