BobL
16th July 2006, 01:26 AM
Yeah, Yeah, I know it's not a scroll, or band saw, or a proper jigsaw table (none of which I have space for in my shed) but it's sometimes handy to tip the a JS upside to be able to use it on small stuff.
I used to screw my ancient B&D JS onto a board and hold the board in a wooden ww vice but I was always annoyed how you would loose cutting depth and blade stability because adding a board meant cutting further away from the base of the blade.
Today I experimented with a new Triton to see If I could remove the base before attaching the board. I thought I post my experiment for the benefit of triton JS owners.
Photo 1 shows the curved Al bracket that I made that holds the board onto the JS.
Photo 2 shows the orientation of the single hex bolt that holds the Al bracket to the saw. It's the same bolt that holds the normal saw base to the JS.
Photo 3 shows the upturned JS in the vice. The other hole in the board is to be able to access the hex bolt that holds the Al bracket to the JS.
You get about 15 mm more cutting depth and associated control than if one were to screw the base directy to a board. If you put sideways pressure on when starting a cut the blade still deflects significantly to one side like most JS do but the closer you get to the base of the blade the less this happens. When I get around to it I might replace the 19 mm jarrah with 12 mm piece or 6mm Al sheet. You can't go any thinner otherwise the metal wheel immediately behind the blade will poke through.
Photo 4 shows the bit of next to final sanded desert gum (20 mm thick at the fat end) that I cut out with this setup. It should look pretty nice when it's finished. This is fairly hard stuff - just take it nice and slowly - it worked OK. And Don't let go of the wood when making a turn!
I used to screw my ancient B&D JS onto a board and hold the board in a wooden ww vice but I was always annoyed how you would loose cutting depth and blade stability because adding a board meant cutting further away from the base of the blade.
Today I experimented with a new Triton to see If I could remove the base before attaching the board. I thought I post my experiment for the benefit of triton JS owners.
Photo 1 shows the curved Al bracket that I made that holds the board onto the JS.
Photo 2 shows the orientation of the single hex bolt that holds the Al bracket to the saw. It's the same bolt that holds the normal saw base to the JS.
Photo 3 shows the upturned JS in the vice. The other hole in the board is to be able to access the hex bolt that holds the Al bracket to the JS.
You get about 15 mm more cutting depth and associated control than if one were to screw the base directy to a board. If you put sideways pressure on when starting a cut the blade still deflects significantly to one side like most JS do but the closer you get to the base of the blade the less this happens. When I get around to it I might replace the 19 mm jarrah with 12 mm piece or 6mm Al sheet. You can't go any thinner otherwise the metal wheel immediately behind the blade will poke through.
Photo 4 shows the bit of next to final sanded desert gum (20 mm thick at the fat end) that I cut out with this setup. It should look pretty nice when it's finished. This is fairly hard stuff - just take it nice and slowly - it worked OK. And Don't let go of the wood when making a turn!