First Wooden Boat Purchase!

[darrenyorston]

Greeting all! I have just become the proud new owner of a 40ft trawler design spotted gum cruiser. Yesterday during the survey a number of areas were noted as having wood rot, none are structural though. Two are on the ply deck and two are on coaping supports (maple). The surveyor tells me these are a piece of the proveriable to cut out and replace. They are probably no bigger than 10cm square if that.

I am a bit unsure of where to go to from here. The surveyor said it justs a case of poking around with a sharp inplement and tapping with a hammer to find the extent. That seems pretty easy. What do I do from there? Do I just arc up the jigsaw and cut out the affected segment, attach a new piece on the inside of the deck, cut a replacement piece for the outside, glue it in, epoxy the gaps, sand and repaint.

I would appreciate some advice.

Are there courses to learn how do it? Maybe a book or two?

I am not scared of power tools. I am scared of screwing the job up and dissapointing my partner.

Darren

[Daddles]

Don't worry about disappointing your partner, worry about sinking the thing :eek:

I won't comment on the repairs as it's not something I've had to do yet.

please.

Richard

[meerkat]

Congrats Darren on the new addition :)

From (recent) experience, more you worry about things the more chances there are to mess it up.

You'll get some great advice from the forum, put that together with any books etc you read about it, make a decision and if you want throw it by some people.

But remember opinions are like bottoms everyone has got one. Use your best judgement and go for it !!!

Andrew

[onthebeachalone]

Congratulations Darren

How old is she (the boat,that is :o)?
What type of construction? You say the deck is ply, how thick?.
My experience is that it's best to keep digging to be sure you have eliminated all possible rot, delaminated ply, rusted screws, failed glue joints, loose rivets, etc.
On a boat that size you could be up for quite an investment in epoxy, paint etc and it would be a shame not to have established a sound base to work from.

[Daddles]

We're slipping boys. No-one's called him a 'silly bugga' yet :D

Richard

[jow104]

Shouldn't the surveyor indicate the approximate cost of repairs in his report?

We do have a forum member who is a boat surveyor, perhaps you could direct a question in his direction???

40 ft is a big boat, never built anything over 14ft. myself.

[meerkat]

We're slipping boys. No-one's called him a 'silly bugga' yet :D

Richard
ssssshhhhhh well let that cat out later :D:D

Yeah and what onthebeach said. I found so many iron nails that when removed left huge holes. Take your time, suss out what needs to be done then go for it.

[darrenyorston]

Congratulations Darren

How old is she (the boat,that is :o)?
What type of construction? You say the deck is ply, how thick?.
My experience is that it's best to keep digging to be sure you have eliminated all possible rot, delaminated ply, rusted screws, failed glue joints, loose rivets, etc.
On a boat that size you could be up for quite an investment in epoxy, paint etc and it would be a shame not to have established a sound base to work from.

It was built in 1960 originally but was rebuilt from the water line in about 1986. That's it's current fitout. The hull itself and all structural wood is spotted gum. The hull from bow to stern are complete planks, no joins. I am not sure how thick the deck is however there are a couple other areas where I can see the thickness and I would say either 6 or 8mm. Could be different though as they are on a different part of the deck.

[darrenyorston]

Shouldn't the surveyor indicate the approximate cost of repairs in his report?

We do have a forum member who is a boat surveyor, perhaps you could direct a question in his direction???

40 ft is a big boat, never built anything over 14ft. myself.
The surveyor did give me a quote, around $10 000, for a few wood issue to be resolved however he says they are simply to do yourself.

We have already determined the size of the rot and luckily it's only the plywood and nothing else. He explained it was simply a case of cutting out the affected piece with a jigsaw with an additional 10% for safety. Utilise that piece as a template to cut a piece larger than the cut out piece and another the same size as the rotted piece.

Epoxy the larger piece on the inside of the deck then epoxy the replacement deck piece into the gap. Fill the edges with epoxy filler. Allow to dry. Sand the area and re paint.

Two of the other affected pieces are maple coapings. I can see the screws where the planks are attached. He said just unscrew, have new pieces cut, refit and repaint.

[Wild Dingo]

The surveyor did give me a quote, around $10 000, for a few wood issue to be resolved however he says they are simply to do yourself.

We have already determined the size of the rot and luckily it's only the plywood and nothing else. He explained it was simply a case of cutting out the affected piece with a jigsaw with an additional 10% for safety. Utilise that piece as a template to cut a piece larger than the cut out piece and another the same size as the rotted piece.

Epoxy the larger piece on the inside of the deck then epoxy the replacement deck piece into the gap. Fill the edges with epoxy filler. Allow to dry. Sand the area and re paint.

Two of the other affected pieces are maple coapings. I can see the screws where the planks are attached. He said just unscrew, have new pieces cut, refit and repaint.

$10,000!!! for a wee bit of ply and epoxy work??? oooh geez I can see Ive gotta get a business up an runnin repairin old woodenboats!!!

On the other 'and... Woooowwwwweeee now see mate Ive got this big old bridge I need to shed since Ive moved to the West Coast I have no need for it anymore so I tell you what I will let you have it for just that amount okay... often called the coathanger it spans Sydney Harbor has great views and mate I tell you what Ive even got the local council to give us the pre-approval to sub-divide! So hows that!!! :D:D

ahem sorry couldnt resist;) ... and if you notice nowhere have I called you a silly bugga!! :cool:

[journeyman Mick]

Darren,
the surveyor is probably correct in the extent of the work, however it may be a bit misleading. I don't want to put you off, but him saying what he has about the simplicity of the work is a bit like an architect saying that all you need to do to build a house is pour a slab, stand some stud walls and trusses, clad and line it and whack on a roof. I do think the work sounds straight forward, but if you haven't done it before it may take you quite some time. I guess what I'm saying is, don't be afraid to tackle it, don't be suprised if it seems to take forever and make sure you come here often to post pictures, tell us about your progress and ask for help if required. Have fun you lucky bugga.;)

Mick

[darrenyorston]

Darren,
the surveyor is probably correct in the extent of the work, however it may be a bit misleading. I don't want to put you off, but him saying what he has about the simplicity of the work is a bit like an architect saying that all you need to do to build a house is pour a slab, stand some stud walls and trusses, clad and line it and whack on a roof. I do think the work sounds straight forward, but if you haven't done it before it may take you quite some time. I guess what I'm saying is, don't be afraid to tackle it, don't be suprised if it seems to take forever and make sure you come here often to post pictures, tell us about your progress and ask for help if required. Have fun you lucky bugga.;)

Mick

I agree with you there. What I would like to know though is how to go about it if I chose too. As far as I concerned I am able to make a better judgement on the value of a service if I am aware of of what involved in the job.

[onthebeachalone]

I agree with you there. What I would like to know though is how to go about it if I chose too. As far as I concerned I am able to make a better judgement on the value of a service if I am aware of of what involved in the job.IMHO you have been very wise getting objective advice from a surveyor. At least you can be pretty confident of ending up with a viable vessel.

It also depends a bit on whether you are mainly interested in the building/restoration project, or being out on the water or, like many here I suspect, can't quite decide. Like, when you've finished doing her up, what are you gonna do then?

Our first project in recent years took 3 years part-time work before we finally saw the light and abandonded it. A surveyor would have rightly said don't touch it but we wouldn't have missed the experience for quids. (Which it cost by the way :o!)

Our most recent project (now sailing) took 15 months part time and is only 16 feet. It took more time and money than we expected, but we love her.

It might be the case that, if you are mainly interested in the restoration project, go for it. If you are mainly interested in being out on the water (and you can afford it) it could make sense to the the repairs done professionally. You would be in the water much sooner, and it may be better for resale value.

[darrenyorston]

IMHO you have been very wise getting objective advice from a surveyor. At least you can be pretty confident of ending up with a viable vessel.

It also depends a bit on whether you are mainly interested in the building/restoration project, or being out on the water or, like many here I suspect, can't quite decide. Like, when you've finished doing her up, what are you gonna do then?

Our first project in recent years took 3 years part-time work before we finally saw the light and abandonded it. A surveyor would have rightly said don't touch it but we wouldn't have missed the experience for quids. (Which it cost by the way :o!)

Our most recent project (now sailing) took 15 months part time and is only 16 feet. It took more time and money than we expected, but we love her.

It might be the case that, if you are mainly interested in the restoration project, go for it. If you are mainly interested in being out on the water (and you can afford it) it could make sense to the the repairs done professionally. You would be in the water much sooner, and it may be better for resale value.

I am not talking about restoring the vessel. I am trying to determine whats involved in replacing the rotten pieces of deck ply. The hull is in excellent condition, the Cummins diesel only has 1500hrs on it, all of the bridge is glassed over but there is just a few places to fix. One for example is a starboard baulwark broekn when a Sydney Harbour ferry "apparently" lost control and ran into it. I am happy to pay for it to be professionally done if that's what is required. I am not happy for the vessel to sit on a slip in Sydney harbour and not be worked on for weeks like many I see.

I already need to get the boat back out of the water for an anti foul and some new pieces of copper sheeting attached on the keel and there are a number of other things that need to be done as well.

Does anyone have suggestions for a forum/book that can provide me with a run down how to go about fixing it whilst it's still small; because as you would all know the longer it's left the worse it will get.

[onthebeachalone]

I am not talking about restoring the vessel. I am trying to determine whats involved in replacing the rotten pieces of deck ply. Well, it's a bit hard to answer that without having a look. Why not just do what the surveyor said? At least he has seen it. If you encounter problems I'm sure there are plenty here who will offer advice once they know what the specific problem is.
If you don't have a problem.... no problem. :D

[Boatmik]

I am not sure how thick the deck is however there are a couple other areas where I can see the thickness and I would say either 6 or 8mm. Could be different though as they are on a different part of the deck.
That sounds WAY to0 thin - would expect 3/4 or thicker ply or even thicker planks for a boat this size.

Despite the archaic nature of the document the USL code will give you a lot of info regarding the minimum dimensions of different parts.

See
http://www.nmsc.gov.au/uslcode_2.htm

Go down the list to the "Wood" section and download.

Open the document and go straight to the tables. Note that they often give alternatives of using either timber planking or ply for different parts. Read the notes under each table carefully before using its contents.

It will give the right sizes for a trawler - but will be to heavy for a yacht or light motorboat.

The thinness of the decks may indicate that some of the work was done by people who didn't know what they were doing - so I would suggest doing some study so that you know how things should be done in this style of boat. (Rabl's book on Wooden Boat Construction would be a good start - also the one by Bud McIntosh).

It also might call into question the knowledge of the surveyor - if he didn't notice the decks were only 6 or 8mm - yet suggested that you go ahead and repair them. He really should have realised that they were too thin. Check the USL code above - I think you will find that they should be around 3/4" ply or thicker for your length of boat.

There are some short cuts if you use epoxy - but get the West Systems "Guide to wooden boat restoration and repair" - it will set you back about $10 but will show how to repair ribs etc without upsetting the existing structure.

I probably wouldn't suggest going the whole epoxy hog with your boat - but if you put down a properly engineeered ply deck and substructure all glued together with epoxy then any upper works etc could also be modern epoxy/timber construction.

Michael

[darrenyorston]

That sounds WAY to0 thin - would expect 3/4 or thicker ply or even thicker planks for a boat this size.

Despite the archaic nature of the document the USL code will give you a lot of info regarding the minimum dimensions of different parts.

See
http://www.nmsc.gov.au/uslcode_2.htm

Go down the list to the "Wood" section and download.

Open the document and go straight to the tables. Note that they often give alternatives of using either timber planking or ply for different parts. Read the notes under each table carefully before using its contents.

It will give the right sizes for a trawler - but will be to heavy for a yacht or light motorboat.

The thinness of the decks may indicate that some of the work was done by people who didn't know what they were doing - so I would suggest doing some study so that you know how things should be done in this style of boat. (Rabl's book on Wooden Boat Construction would be a good start - also the one by Bud McIntosh).

It also might call into question the knowledge of the surveyor - if he didn't notice the decks were only 6 or 8mm - yet suggested that you go ahead and repair them. He really should have realised that they were too thin. Check the USL code above - I think you will find that they should be around 3/4" ply or thicker for your length of boat.

There are some short cuts if you use epoxy - but get the West Systems "Guide to wooden boat restoration and repair" - it will set you back about $10 but will show how to repair ribs etc without upsetting the existing structure.

I probably wouldn't suggest going the whole epoxy hog with your boat - but if you put down a properly engineeered ply deck and substructure all glued together with epoxy then any upper works etc could also be modern epoxy/timber construction.

Michael

As I mentioned the area where I can see the thickness is in a different part of the hull. The main deck is stepped. The centre section which covers the engine and cabin area is bout twelve inches above the rest. I can see the thickness as there is a fuel filler fitting missing.

I know the vessel was built by people who knew what they were doing. It was originally built by Brown Brothers in Sydney and later rebuilt from the deck up by another shipwright in the Gladesville area.

Thanks for your suggestions though, it's the most productive I have seen so far.

[journeyman Mick]

Darren,
I'd do a bit of exploratory surgery. Cut out some small patches of deck from the various areas that need repair, this will give you their thickness. Then check this against the USL code. Then you'll know where you stand WRT just repairing sections or having to renew the entire deck. Once you've got that out of the way just start cutting out the deck, tools used will depend on access. I'd cut past any suspect areas right to the next framing member or sheet join. Either land the patch halfway onto a framing member (meaning you'll need to trim to a line with a circular saw and/or chisels) or, if you can then cut on the edge of the framing and add a sister piece to land your patch on. Buy yourself lots of tarps and gaff tape to temporarily waterproof any openings that occur.

Post lots of pics

Mick

[Boatmik]

Darren,
Either land the patch halfway onto a framing member
Mick

Howdy Mick,

I would support everything you are saying except for this bit.

There is not enough bonding area over a framing member.

Generally if supporting a patch on a second layer of ply the overlap of the piece underneath has to be a minimum of 10 times the thickness of the ply - and that is to both sides of the edge of the patch.

So if the ply is 12mm then the piece underneath has to go 120mm to either side of the join.

In general ply deck butt joins (or planking butt straps) should be kept in the middle of frame bays. If Joined over a beam and someone puts their foot in the middle of an adjacent bay then you have the whole person's weight pushing the ply down - the edge of the beam acts as a fulcrum for a very effective lever that will lever the ply off the deck beam. There can be sufficient leverage to pull out fastening, break glue bonds or pull fastening heads through the ply.

With a repair of this type it may be difficult to keep the joins in the middle of frame bays - but it should be done wherever possible.

Where it can't be done the effect can be reduced by using a disk sander to cut a groove in the surface of the join and laying several layers of glass to tie the top surface of the ply together across the join - but generally still not really good practice.

Michael

Generally framing members are not wide enough to match this criteria and half of one won't be close.

[Boatmik]

I know the vessel was built by people who knew what they were doing. It was originally built by Brown Brothers in Sydney and later rebuilt from the deck up by another shipwright in the Gladesville area.

Thanks for your suggestions though, it's the most productive I have seen so far.

Howdy Darren,

Take Journeyman Mick's advice and check deck thickness against the USL Code. Which will give you a much thicker requirement for the deck.

6mm is not thick enough for a 6m trailer sailer.
9mm might be fine for a 8m trailer sailer, but is inadequate for a 40ft trawler.

If the thicknesses are as you state - then the work was not done by someone who knew what they were doing - or it is a patch job that someone who knew what they were doing did on the cheap and on the quick for some specific reason - probably planning to get back to it later.

I am not being negative or mean here - it is a suggestion that you check carefully rather than assume all is OK - I have quite a bit of experience with different vessels of different sizes and if the thicknesses are as you state then there is a problem that you need to look into.

If the decks are good quality ply, properly installed, but a bit thin, maybe all you will have to do is glue another layer over the top to bring them up to the required thickness. This would also work in well with your patching as the second layer will hold the repairs to the second layer in place nicely without the need for ply reinforcements under the deck. A good heavy layer of biaxial glass over the top and she will be fit to take to sea.

Perhaps ... Maybe ... what you are standing on is the first layer of a laminated deck that was to be a total of two or three layers of thinner ply - and a previous owner never got round to adding the following layers.

I still a bit surprised the surveyor missed this and/or didn't mention it - but then, I have missed things too occasionally.

Best Regards
Michael Storer

[darrenyorston]

Howdy Darren,

Take Journeyman Mick's advice and check deck thickness against the USL Code. Which will give you a much thicker requirement for the deck.

6mm is not thick enough for a 6m trailer sailer.
9mm might be fine for a 8m trailer sailer, but is inadequate for a 40ft trawler.

If the thicknesses are as you state - then the work was not done by someone who knew what they were doing - or it is a patch job that someone who knew what they were doing did on the cheap and on the quick for some specific reason - probably planning to get back to it later.

I am not being negative or mean here - it is a suggestion that you check carefully rather than assume all is OK - I have quite a bit of experience with different vessels of different sizes and if the thicknesses are as you state then there is a problem that you need to look into.

If the decks are good quality ply, properly installed, but a bit thin, maybe all you will have to do is glue another layer over the top to bring them up to the required thickness. This would also work in well with your patching as the second layer will hold the repairs to the second layer in place nicely without the need for ply reinforcements under the deck. A good heavy layer of biaxial glass over the top and she will be fit to take to sea.

Perhaps ... Maybe ... what you are standing on is the first layer of a laminated deck that was to be a total of two or three layers of thinner ply - and a previous owner never got round to adding the following layers.

I still a bit surprised the surveyor missed this and/or didn't mention it - but then, I have missed things too occasionally.

Best Regards
Michael Storer

Thanks Michael. I had already come to the conclusion that having pieces of ply joining over a beam was not a good idea. Though I had hought it presented an opportunity for water to enter directly onto a structural beam if the gap was not sealed correctly.

We have a web site www.kneeling-goat.com (http://www.kneeling-goat.com) that includes a few pictures of the vessel. If you click on the Galleries tab then the "Jackpot" tab we have posted a few pictures. The good looking guy is me. What I am sitting on is the raised centre section. It is here I can was able to see how thick the ply is as there is a missing fuel filling outlet. That raised section is entirely glassed over with sheet fibre glass and not chopped. Same for the bridge. Where my feet are, but on the other side, is where the rot is. This area is not glassed over. I think it's paint with some sort of non skid additive.

So if I could summarise what has been offered. The way it would be done, whether by myself or a shipwright, is to cut out the affected piece with a jigsaw or the like, epoxy a piece of ply on the inside of the deck with an overhang of 10% greater than the thickness of the ply, epoxy an appopriately thick piece into the area that was cut out, epoxy fill the gaps, allow to cure, sand and then re paint. Correct?

On the starboard side there is a damaged baulwark that I need to repair also. More than willing to have a crack at this. The original coaping is maple however the grey coloured bit was fitted as an insurance job. Apparently a Sydney Harbour ferry became out of control crushed a vessel moored and during the recovery operation the vessel we bought was damaged.

I also intend to sand and repaint the blue tops of the coaping myself. I assume a belt sander would be best for this if I want to have it finished before I retire? There are a few caps, chips then I was going to fill with epoxy. Thoughts? There are a few chips in the resin over the fibre as well. Should I just fill those with epoxy?

[Boatmik]

epoxy a piece of ply on the inside of the deck with an overhang of 10% greater than the thickness of the ply, epoxy an appopriately thick piece into the area that was cut out, epoxy fill the gaps, allow to cure, sand and then re paint. Correct?
10x not 10% - but otherwise looks good

Glass epoxied on deck will reduce wear and other maintenance to a great degree.

The other way if you have to build up the thickness is to cut out the affected bits then put new bits in and put another layer (or two - whatever is required) over the top of the sections that need to be thicker.

Michael

[darrenyorston]

10x not 10% - but otherwise looks good

Glass epoxied on deck will reduce wear and other maintenance to a great degree.

The other way if you have to build up the thickness is to cut out the affected bits then put new bits in and put another layer (or two - whatever is required) over the top of the sections that need to be thicker.

Michael

Much appreciated Michael. The rest of the deck at that height is not fibre glassed so I think it's pretty pointless to just this replacement segment. Epoxy to seal the ply then painted should be ok?

[Boatmik]

It's up to you - but the glass does save a lot of maintenance down the line - you can wear through the paint and are unlikely to get through to wood.

Even if something heavy and sharp edged is dragged across deck it is unlikely to do damage.

If you decide to go with the glass 10oz (330gsm) woven cloth would be about right.

MIK

[darrenyorston]

Hi again all. Last weekend we got the opportunity to have a detailed look over and through out our new boat by cleaning it. We discovered the rot area on the deck that I am considering repairing myself was in fact a repair itself. Whilst topping up the batteries I noted a piece of ply screwed to the underside of the deck. Sittting outside and having a long look at the damage area I think I was able to make out the shape of an insert. It would appear that the repair made was insufficient. The ply on the inside of the deck is not coated or treated in any way ie It's still raw.

So I have decided that before I give the repair a go I will do a practice on some ply at home. If it works a looks Ok then I will attempt the job. Unfortunately I won't be able to get a router onto the boat as I can't justify buying an 8kva generator for one tool.

I have found a place near Windsor NSW called Trend Timbers that sells Bote Cote and a selection of marine ply.

[bitofascallywag]

i am most likely out of line here but remember how rot grows....it puts tendrils out seeking the next damp patch and then grows.........have a good look mate...

[Wild Dingo]

Got some goor information coming to you Darren

I have one little question though... you say in one post you will be using a jigsaw to cut this problem area out and you then say you will be routing as well... but then you say you cant justify buying a 8kva gen set for one tool? Mate the genset will come in handy! in that you will be free to work ON the boat where it is instead of taking peices of the boat and home doing the work and back again... there will also be times down the track where the genset will come in handy

I dont know how big a 8kva genset is but all you need is the largest portable genset that will run your machines and for a router and jigsaw you dont need a very big one... I have a small one I bought after the flood and it works the Triton router beautifully and every other hand power tool I have for that matter... and I take it everywhere with me that I take my tools! doesnt weigh much and gives you freedom from the powerpoint and lugging stuff around as much.

Just my thoughts mate... it will pay for itself I reckon and as you can only use one tool at a time its adequate for your needs... I'll have a gander at mine tomorrow and see what kpa it is and get back to you :cool:

Nice boat by the way :cool: Wouldnt mind a side on shot ;)

Cheers

[journeyman Mick]

Darren,
you won't need an 8KVA gennie for your router. I've got a 4.5KVA and it will happily run a small compressor, my dropsaw and any of my portable power tools. You just don't want to fire up the drop saw just as the compressor kicks in as they've both got high start up currents. I've also got one of those cheapie 2 stroke 650 watt camping generators (= about a bit over 1/2 KVA) and it will happily run drills, planers and the jigsaw and would probably run most routers too. I haven't had to use it with a router but I'd say that it might struggle with the old Hitachi 2 Hp as it has a kick like a mule on start up. It would run any of the smaller routers no problem.

Mick

[darrenyorston]

Got some goor information coming to you Darren

I have one little question though... you say in one post you will be using a jigsaw to cut this problem area out and you then say you will be routing as well... but then you say you cant justify buying a 8kva gen set for one tool? Mate the genset will come in handy! in that you will be free to work ON the boat where it is instead of taking peices of the boat and home doing the work and back again... there will also be times down the track where the genset will come in handy

I dont know how big a 8kva genset is but all you need is the largest portable genset that will run your machines and for a router and jigsaw you dont need a very big one... I have a small one I bought after the flood and it works the Triton router beautifully and every other hand power tool I have for that matter... and I take it everywhere with me that I take my tools! doesnt weigh much and gives you freedom from the powerpoint and lugging stuff around as much.

Just my thoughts mate... it will pay for itself I reckon and as you can only use one tool at a time its adequate for your needs... I'll have a gander at mine tomorrow and see what kpa it is and get back to you :cool:

Nice boat by the way :cool: Wouldnt mind a side on shot ;)

Cheers

Sorry about the confusion. I have been mulling over the best way to do the job hence flipping between a router, jigsaw or circular saw. An 8vka genset is a huge sucker in size and weight! Well over 100kg. I would only need that amount of power to use a few tools. That's why I can't justify it.

What generator are you using to run your tools? Especially the Triton router.

[Wild Dingo]

As the poms would say "COR LUV A DUCK!!!"... meaning: shes a beauty! :cool:

Mate Ive got a camping one 2.5kpa... that ran all the hand power tools including the Triton router and started the bandsaw and had enough ooomph to just turn over the others... thats all that I required it to be able to do... turn the motors over to check they werent stuffed after the flood of last year and it did without any problems

It now resides almost permenantly in the back of the F100 :cool:

An 8kpa would run the boat!! ;) and my house :eek:

[Daddles]

It now resides almost permenantly in the back of the F100 :cool:


You mean you use it to start the F100? Or do you just hook the battery charger to it.

Richard :D

[Wild Dingo]

:D :D geez mate your friggin quick! :D

No I leave it along with my old router drill and saw and verious other bits and peices so that when the girls ring saying "DADDY!!! come fix... PUHHHLEEEEEEAASE!!!" Im ready to rock and roll their partners are a mechanic and a lighting tech come electrician and neither does or has any woodworking abilities other than as "PANIC" and "HULK" (respectively) the first does everything unless its something to do with a cars motor at FLAT CHAT speed while in a major panic while the other has the muscles needed to lift and move VERY HEAVY items... so its left to me to fix anything wooden that gets brokedended :o so bein an old time cub and scout I is "prepared" :cool:

the effy herself is still wonderously well behaved... most of the time with only occasional glitches when shes cold wet or just plain empty of fuel at which point she tends to jack up and tell me to get stuffed and use shanks's pony at which point Im known to chuck a major tartar threaten to use her as a mooring burn her to the ground smash the heck out of her etc etc... but she doesnt care and wont run till shes warm or Ive put fuel into her belly :rolleyes: otherwise shes a good old tank :cool:

oooh to bring it back on track... more boatporn please Darren Cheers mate ;)

[jow104]

Darrenyorsten,
That was a super boat photograph as well.

I would like to get my artists brushes out on that one with your permission.

[darrenyorston]

Darrenyorsten,
That was a super boat photograph as well.

I would like to get my artists brushes out on that one with your permission.

Sure..wouldn't mind seeing the end product. Other pics on our website www.kneeling-goat.com

She has a great ####!

[jow104]

Sure..wouldn't mind seeing the end product. Other pics on our website www.kneeling-goat.com

She has a great ####!

Many thanks, I have put it down on my to do list. Let you see when completed.

[Marc]

Darren, you say the Cummins engine has only 1500 hours.
From my experience that is a lot, particulalry for engines that work intermittently at little load like a pleasure vessel does. You can get 50,000 hours out of an engine that works at full load 24/7 but may be 2000 if the same engines works a few hours a week at 1/4 load.

[Boatmik]

If the deck is 6 or 8mm it is way too thin for a boat of this size.

I think we had a discussion about this on another thread last year.

I think it was this one
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=29484&highlight=usl

I suggested downloading the USL code and checking against that.

It will have figures for both conventional timber decks and plywood ones.

For low maintenance, low cost, brilliant strength plywood is to be much preferred.

Unless you want a REALLY REALLY traditional boat.

MIK