This weekends products

[BobL]

I've been working on this large bowsaw for a while but wasn't sure about using the traditional leather tensioning system on such a big saw. On saturday I bit the bullet and decided to go with Bodgy's idea (well that's where I last saw it) of a threaded rod.

Photo 1 shows the new 2ft bowsaw compared to the little 1 footer I made last month.

Photo 2 is a close up of the tensioning nut. Inside the wooden nut, which is made of two pieces of wood, there is a 5/16" metal wing nut.

Photo 3 shows a couple of large (~18" long) mallets I also finished this weekend. LHS one is sheoak, RHS is red gum.

Photo 4 is of just the new saw. Timber is all redgum from the woodpile. The side arms are sap wood hence are a touch paler than the other bits from the pile, .

The blade on it is (temporarily) one of those Swedish hard point jobbies - it cuts like a demon. I have a couple of broken band saw blades to choose from for the final blade but haven't quite made up my mind which ones to useyet.

[echnidna]

looks great Bob, how does it work?

[urban-wombat]

Hi Bob.. oh what can I say.... one day I hope my work looks as good yours.. still got a long way to go...Col

[Bodgy]

Well done Bob, looks good.I shall shamelessly plagarise your idea of the wooden covers for the nuts.

The threaded rod makes good sense, take the best of the old and the new.

Have you used it, seriously, yet? How straight can u cut to the line?

If you get a chance get a W Pilsh blade out of Germany.

[BobL]

Thanks all.

As I said the "log cutting type swedish blade" currently on it cuts like a demon and it fair rips through crapiata and also did pretty well on some tougher bits of jarrah and gnarly bit of redgum (see photo 1). The longer stroke makes a substantial difference compared to the little bowsaw. It's like you need a certain distance to get the saw up to speed before you have to slow down to stop which you can't do as easily on a little saw. Also as bodgy says, the extra weight of a tensioning bar also helps apply an added downward pressure on the saw.It has got a much more satisfying feel to it than the little bowsaw because you can build up a proper sawing stroke

As to "keeping to a line" I would say the saw is not the limiting factor but my skill in using it is. Along about a 50 cm rip on a bit of red gum I was wandering about a mm either side of the black line (see photo 2) probably because the chunky swedish blade cuts so fast you get off line quickly if you are not careful. To show you what happens when you "go hell for leather", V "Nice and steady" on a bit of MDF, see photos 3 & 4.

[Bodgy]

Yep, same thing.

They do cut fast tho!

[Auld Bassoon]

I just love those bowsaws Bob!

Old Tage Frid swears by them, so methinks I might have to have a go (much as I like my Lie Nielsen dovetail and carcass saws).

This toolmaking bizzo can be quite absorbing :rolleyes:

[Driver]

Great work, Bob. The new saw looks good and your idea with the wooden nut over a metal wingnut is very smart.

What you say about the improved sawing action as a result of a longer blade makes good sense. Tell me (join in here, Bodgy, if you want to), when you are cutting with the bigger saw, do you place your non-driving hand on the forward handle or on part of the frame? If you don't hold the frame, does the saw tend to want to lean?

I haven't ever used a bowsaw but I want to make one at some stage (one of a long list of round tuit projects).

Col

[BobL]

. . . . . Tell me (join in here, Bodgy, if you want to), when you are cutting with the bigger saw, do you place your non-driving hand on the forward handle or on part of the frame? If you don't hold the frame, does the saw tend to want to lean?


Thanks Col/Auld,

The attachments show some of the holds I have been experimenting with. This saw has a threaded tensioning rod which makes it top heavy. Holding it by the handle alone is almost impossible to hold straight. I note Bodgy does not even bother with handles.

Holds 1 and 2 are good for me for starting cuts. I'm probably favouring hold 2 at the moment to start.
Hold 3 works once I get going. NB the Right hand is well down the vertical with the bottom of the hand/wrist sort of bracing on the handle.

Hold 1 is good for finishing a cut and avoiding messy breakthru.

Yes, I've found if you don't hold the frame it does want to tip over.

PS. Note suitable blokey attire, its my second worst shed shirt, my best has high quality multi layered paint graphics.

[Bodgy]

Col

I think the extra weight from the threaded rod, provides enough downward force to make the cut, provided u have a good blade.

I left out the handles cause my shopbought bowsaw has them and I've never used them. Possibly that's why I can't cut a straight line.

My 'inspiration' was a video by either Tage Frid or Frank Klaus, who cut out his dovetails and tenons using a bowsaw. I noted that he didn't use the handles either.

I don't place my left hand on the frame, maybe I should, it may help to cut straighter (as Bob says), although I think the speed of the cut contributes. You are off the marked line before you know it.

Yet another tool to master.

I would encourage you to make one, only takes a couple of hours. PM me for some Liquid Amber for the frame.