Router Fence Design

[Stuart]

I'm in the latter stages of designing a router table fence, and have done quite a bit of research on the web to find the best ideas to incorporate, plus a couple unique ones of my own (well, unique in as much as I have not seen anyone else do it). Such as replaceable inserts, one for each router bit type to provide zero clearance, and modification of existing ideas, such as the Incra positioning system for stops for things such as stopped rebates, and dovetails done using the Incra fence system.

However, before starting the build, I wanted to make sure that I hadn't missed any decent fence design concepts, so if anyone has any input, it would be very welcome.

The basis of the fence is a 100x50mm aluminium RHS beam. It will (ok, may, depending if there are better ideas) have MDF facings, and these are not specifically sacrificial, as there is the central removable router bit surround that will be cut by the router bit. The RHS will be plugged at one end, and will have dust extraction attached to the other. The design includes 2 stops that engages the incra toothed rails that extend the length of the fence providing precise positioning.

A 90 degree attachment will slide along the rail, again for incra type joint production. To the rear of the fence is the base version of the incra positioner (which one day I'd love to upgrade to the LS version).

Planing will be possible by placing shims behind the outfeed fence.

So, any other ideas, design changes, novel inclusions etc all welcome!

[Mick C.]

If your using box section, then you should have your "blocked end" right beside the opening in your fence for the cutter, or, leave the end open all together to allow extra air into the box section so that the section doesnt fill up with shavings, due to swirling and cavitation of the air entering near the cutter only...

[Harry72]

What are you draughting it with vac or dusty?

[Stuart]

Good thoughts - I have the far end designed blocked off, but with holes drilled to allow airflow through to prevent the 'dead' end filling up. I prefer your idea Mick of having that seal much closer to the mid-section of the fence. I chose the right end to be the dead end, as the cutter would (i'm guessing) tend to throw shavings toward the right inside the fence, given the direction of rotation.

See - already a simple, but valuable contribution / modification of the design!


Harry - thinking of using vac (coupled to my cyclone), rather than the shop's 4" dusty. Reason for this is 2 fold - firstly, the added difficulty in converting the square section to 4" round (although not that hard, the smaller tube is easier), and secondly, I don't want the weight of the dust extraction tube having any chance to pull the fence out of position. Thoughts?

[Mick C.]

He's a rough pic of my flow through fence with a 4" dusty connected, i've never had any trouble with it moving when i didnt want it to, and never had trouble with it not getting rid of waste properly. Is simply a few PVC fittings that i'm sure you can identify.

[Bodgy]

Stu

After seeing Zed's Carbatec router table, and getting all envious and accquisitive, you might think to add a sliding tenon cutting jig to the fence.

I know its a bit of relatively complex engineering, but that would probably give you an extra choice (bringing the total into double figures) in how you cut tenons.

Boy can't have too many toys.

[MrFixIt]

Hi


Harry - thinking of using vac (coupled to my cyclone), rather than the shop's 4" dusty. Reason for this is 2 fold - firstly, the added difficulty in converting the square section to 4" round WHat about those rectangle downpipe to round pipe adaptors? They are about that size.

[Wild Dingo]

Stu

After seeing Zed's Carbatec router table, and getting all envious and accquisitive, you might think to add a sliding tenon cutting jig to the fence.

I know its a bit of relatively complex engineering, but that would probably give you an extra choice (bringing the total into double figures) in how you cut tenons.

Boy can't have too many toys.

Zed has that one Ive got? thats wider than it is long? bloody pain in the ass in my view... and you cant fit one of those risers in either by the way... unless Zed has figured something out that I havent cause none that Carbatec had would slot in!... main problem I have is the back part of the thing I mean youve almost got two tables in one with that major winder setup bloody takes up too much room... gotta make a router table soon

[bpj1968]

Just a thought on the zero clearance insert. You probably need a bit of room, otherwise your bit may end up cutting the shaving/chips a second time if they get between the bit and insert. More likely on the way back out from the rear of the fence, if the shavings aren't thrown clear.

[Stuart]

Thanks for that Brian - was thinking something along the same lines - was concerned about getting chip-out from the insert as the bit passed back through, so was thinking of leaving about 1mm clearance all round. Still, that gives a very good "zero clearance" benefit cf normal fences, even those with movable in and out feed.

Didn't get a chance to start on the fence last weekend - decided to start with the router table instead. It is going to be functional rather than beautiful, so don't expect any works of art!

[Stuart]

Few photos:
http://photos1.blogger.com/hello/28/5554/640/IMG_0244.jpg
The current router table - currently supported by a couple of Triton Multistands. A very temporary fence so I can make the proper one.
http://photos1.blogger.com/hello/28/5554/640/IMG_0246.jpg
The back of the fence - showing the Incra positioner that will be used on the new fence
http://photos1.blogger.com/hello/28/5554/640/IMG_0243.jpg
The base for the new table - a Jet Universal Roller Stand. Not sure whether it will be the long term base or not. At some stage it may be moved to the bandsaw, and more permanent wheels added to the router table, but at this stage, it is convenient.
http://photos1.blogger.com/hello/28/5554/640/Rotation%20of%20IMG_0245.jpg
The start of the table - using melamine that I got free from NidekFurniture that he offered on here last friday (thanks Nick).

It is very (very) loosely based on the NYW table, but obviously I have a different requirement because of the orientation of the table. It will be coupled up to both the 4" dust system, and the 1" cyclone systems in the workshop, with the 1" collecting dust directly from the Triton router's dust port, and the 4" from the fence, and from the table, as per the NYW design.

[Wild Dingo]

eerr have I gone blind?? :eek: IM BLIND!!! AAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! :eek:

note to self stop runnin around like a chook with its head cut off yer galah! :o Stuart has just had a momentary old phart moment and forgotten to post the pics :rolleyes:

mmmm Stuart?? oooohhh Stuart mate could you kindly post the pics you refer to ol son ;) ... cheers mate :cool:

[Stuart]

Pics are there for me to see - anyone else not see them?


Great. Something's gone wrong with the post - the HTML shows the images there, but now the links are not working. I hate computers :( Have added the images as attachments - at least that should work.

Thanks for the heads-up Dingo - appreciated.

[Harry72]

Just on the draughting, I had a bit of a play around yonks ago in positioning the intake and found it was better to have the intake directly behind the bit, having it draughting from the side added an extra bend for the flow to go around.(well thats what im putting it down too...)
I made a fancy box section with side a intake to go behind my fence, but it still let most chips/dust to fall too the floor
so I just put the vac hose behind the fence close to the bit without any box section and found it performed way better.
So now its just got a slapped together bits of scrap box with the infeed facing towards the bit.

Dust and chips still fall to the floor, the only way is to box the router in as well and draught it with big air flow.
My up and coming RT(one day...)will have both top and bottom draughted by the dusty, as running both vac and dusty is silly.

Im thinking along the lines for my new fence is to use a box section like you, but it will sit up high apon another two box sections with a 100mm cutter gap between them and with 50mm "C" section separating them from the top box section... I like a high fence because it allows for 2 T tracks for feather boards and stops to have 2 fixing points... rock solid!

My current fence was made to have ZCI's but have never used it, Im looking for another face material other than melimine as it has expanded on the outfeed side PITA!
I thinking some sort of plastic, but I've spent way to much now($1k+) so im looking for something cheaper than phenlonic/UHMW ?

[Stuart]

So you are saying I'm being silly by running a vac and 4" system then?

Think I will still try it and make my own decision on that one. Given the Triton router is designed with a vacuum collection directly from the shrouding of the base, that will be reasonably effective. Combined with an overall 4" collection below the table, and also from the fence, I don't see why it won't be pretty effective.

[Harry72]

Nah I didnt mean the dusty and vac at the same time wont work on the contrary it'll work quite well, just ment youre running an extra motor for no need. The dusty doing both top and bottom should be enough.
Most router bits seem to pull the majority of dust downwards, especialy spirals and shearcut straights, this I gather why the yanks have a 2" outlet for the fence and a 4" in the cabinet?

[Stuart]

I was just thinking that it would be a good idea to ensure the router has every chance to run in a clean environment. However, I guess it isn't the same as a planer or similar, and the more modest 1 above, and 1 below would be more than sufficient. Just overengineering like always!

I'll take your experiences with the fence dust collection onboard - may run a few trials before committing to the final takeoff point. I'll start with one at the end, as that doesn't require hacking into the back of the fence, and then work from there. I don't have easy access directly behind the router bit because of the Incra jig.

[Ticky]

Hi Stuart & Harry,
I have not bought my dust extraction system yet, still buying the things that make sawdust etc, but I was wondering if you could get or make a 4"to 2" "T" and still only run one system, but from top & bottom at the same time? Not sure that I have made myself clear here...

Steve

[Wood Butcher]

Ticky, you would be better off running a 4" 'Y' junction and having the two 4" hoses, one to the top and one to the bottom. You would loose too much using two 2" hoses.

[Stuart]

You can, but I do find that high volume, low pressure dust extraction systems don't work as well using smaller diameter tubes. (remember that you have increased the wall area, and therefore the friction for the airflow)

On the other hand, 4" diameter - 12.56" square area. Dividing that into 2 gives 2 pipes that are 1.5" diameter. So reducing to 2 x 2" isn't too bad. Reducing to 2x1" would not be so good.

Bugger - Rowan beat me to it!

[Bushmiller]

. I don't have easy access directly behind the router bit because of the Incra jig.[/quote]

Stuart

Have you looked at Dizzy's site and how he raised the Incra jig to accomodate dust extraction? It may give you some ideas.

My experience with a very crude (planing a smart one) router table (and a triton router) is that the majority of dust falls down. The dust shroud does not seem to do a great job when upside down. It is hooked up to a ducted domestic vac with a cyclone in between.

http://home.pacbell.net/jdismuk/index.html

Regards
Paul

[Stuart]

Some definite food-for-thought there - thanks! He gives his work a much more finished look!

[Stu in Tokyo]

Mind if I jump in here Gents? :rolleyes:

I built a table a while back, and I'm very pleased with it.........

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/router_table/rt_finished.jpg
That is the finished table.

For the fence I went with that white cutting board stuff, it worked out really well, and is nice and slick, plus I had enough left over for several inserts, all of which can be flipped so you get two profiles per insert.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/router_table/rt_front_view_close_up.jpg
Front side of the fence

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/router_table/rt_back_fence.jpg
Backside, the large hole is for the 6" cyclone hook up, I put a smaller hose to the back of the fence split off at the Blast gate....

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/router_table/rt_slide_in_zero_clear.jpghow the dovetail captures the insert.

Both of the long side pieces slide right and left.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/router_table/rt_blastgate_box2.jpg
here you can see the blast gate box that I split the 6" hose to the main cabinet and the 3" hose to the back of the fence, I get zero dust out of the front of the table.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/router_table/t_bolts_in_slots.jpg
"T" slots cut in the back of the wings of the fence, with "T" bolts in place to hold the wings on.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/router_table/rt_insert_swap.jpg
kind of a compilation shot of the various ideas, all of which I pilfered from other places :rolleyes:


Anyway, you can see the whole two page saga here....

Stu's router table Page 1 (http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/router_table.htm)

Stu's router table Page 2 (http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/router_table2.htm)

If you find anything of use there, please feel free to have a go, that is why I put the pages up, as I found so many good sites with info on them when it was my turn to build a table.

Cheers!

[Stuart]

Nice stuff Stu - there MUST be something to the name ;)

That central insert is exactly what I was thinking - right down to the mitred corners.

I like how you have attached the fence wings with the T Slot - leaving no holes in the front, and fully adjustable. Definitely stealing that idea!

Anyone know of a source of that white high density plastic in Oz?

Again, another example of a table finished to a higher quality than just being functional. It really motivates me to make sure mine at least looks reasonable, and not just like a few boards knocked together.

[Bushmiller]

Stuart

I, and others, have commented that Dizzy's table does not look very used. It may even reside in his lounge room!

Stu

Liked your table very much and now suitably motivated to suggest to the omnipotent SWMBO that it takes priority over the bathroom.

Will probably have lost the courage by morning. Never mind.

I notice you have drilled holes in the front window????

Regards
Paul

[Stu in Tokyo]

Stuart

I, and others, have commented that Dizzy's table does not look very used. It may even reside in his lounge room!

Stu

Liked your table very much and now suitably motivated to suggest to the omnipotent SWMBO that it takes priority over the bathroom.

Will probably have lost the courage by morning. Never mind.

I notice you have drilled holes in the front window????

Regards
Paul

Paul, I know Dizzy from forums in the US, his stuff is very nice for sure.

The holes in the front are fro air flow, at first the dust just settled in the cavity, I thought "Huh?"

I talked to Mr Pentz about it (I built his design of cyclone, which ROCKS) and he suggested some holes, it works VERY well now.

This table was featured twice in some Japanese woodworking magazines, so I'm rather proud of it, but I also use the pants off it :D

Works DARN good, made a bunch of Raised Panel doors, and it just plain worked!!

Cheers!

[Stuart]

You need air flow for dust extraction, not just a pure vacuum. Given there is a 6" diameter opening in the back, and the gap around the bit is no where near that area, I'm guessing Stu needed another source of air so his extractor didn't just simply try to extract all the air from the router enclosure!

Ah - beaten to the punch again - twice in a night!

As to Dizzy's table - if mine looked that good, I'd keep it in the lounge too :D

For your priorities - you NEED a router table before being able to do a decent job of the bathroom!

[Stu in Tokyo]

Nice stuff Stu - there MUST be something to the name ;)

That central insert is exactly what I was thinking - right down to the mitred corners.

I like how you have attached the fence wings with the T Slot - leaving no holes in the front, and fully adjustable. Definitely stealing that idea!

Anyone know of a source of that white high density plastic in Oz?

Again, another example of a table finished to a higher quality than just being functional. It really motivates me to make sure mine at least looks reasonable, and not just like a few boards knocked together.

Stu, don't forget to under cut the very bottom of the edge of the fence material, where it meets the table top, it gives you a place any dust can go so you boards stay tight to the fence.

To the left of the bit here you can see what I mean...........

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/router_table/rt_crisp_cut.jpg
Works great on the SCMS fence too, not to mention the TS fence.....

Maybe you already know that one, but I was shown it only a while back.

Cheers!

[Stu in Tokyo]

For your priorities - you NEED a router table before being able to do a decent job of the bathroom!

I'll second that, in fact, you can quote me! :rolleyes: :D

[Bushmiller]

Thanks guys. I always have trouble sealing things up so there is normally plenty of leakage. I imagine your joints are just too good. (Nothing implied about any smoking habits there.)

As to the priorities. Am I man or mouse?

Squeak!

Regards
Paul

[Stuart]

Oh yeah - keep forgetting about that. Need to source that white stuff - looks much better than MDF. I'm still thinking that the fence I make will be used on both the router table and TS (when I need Incra accuracy that is).

Ever thought about fitting an Incra jig to the back of your fence?

After seeing your table, I've decided I need another T slot track running parallel to the fence for featherboards. I have the mitre slot already, and I do find this useful, but a second slot for horizontal holddowns would be good.

I have found the mitre slot (and a mitre gauge) is very good for end-grain routing (such as rail & stile) because otherwise I find it difficult to keep the blank hard up against the fence, and perpendicular to it. It also makes it very easy to combine the piece being routered with a sacrificial backing.

[Stuart]

Paul - part of the bathroom job is the router table. It's like any other jig - you have to have the jig before doing the job, and this jig is a must!

[Bushmiller]

Stuart

Thanks for your advice and words of encouragement, but SWMBO in a former life was a daughter of Medusa and I am not yet ready to be a rock. (You wouldn't be setting me up here would you?)

There is a little bit of history in that she has been waiting fifteen years for a verandah and the payoff is to complete the bathroom to appease her and gain a temporary reprieve.

But oh those router table/cupboards are sooooo beautiful. I have secret yearnings for one of those Woodpecker goldy coloured bizzos under which you can hang your router too. Perhaps, I could make the vanity.... the right jig..... the embryo of a devious scheme.. (I mean a plan)......

Regards
Paul

[Stu in Tokyo]

Thanks guys. I always have trouble sealing things up so there is normally plenty of leakage. I imagine your joints are just too good. (Nothing implied about any smoking habits there.)

As to the priorities. Am I man or mouse?

Squeak!

Regards
Paul

Well if you are going to be a mouse, at least be a male mouse :rolleyes: ;) :D:D:D

[Bushmiller]

Well if you are going to be a mouse, at least be a male mouse :rolleyes: ;) :D:D:D

Absolutely

"I am the mouse that roared." It's the Leo in me!

Regards
Paul

[Stuart]

But oh those router table/cupboards are sooooo beautiful. I have secret yearnings for one of those Woodpecker goldy coloured bizzos under which you can hang your router too.

So do I, but I don't imagine I'll ever be able to justify the $500 or so price tag. So I'll settle for yearning the goldy coloured bizzo that goes behind the router fence and gives incredible accuracy (the replacement for my ugly short black plastic one).

I'm going to justify my ubeaut (;)) router table with a nice jewellry box as a christmas present for SWMBO.

http://www.woodpeck.com/media/pro2capt5.jpg

[scooter]

Stu, that white stuff is usually UHMW, or Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene, sort of a denser version of the chopping board plastic.

Should be able to source it from an industrial plastics supplier, it's used in machinery where a low friction wear resistant surface is needed. Not sure how dear it is though.


Cheers..................Sean

[Stu in Tokyo]

Stu, that white stuff is usually UHMW, or Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene, sort of a denser version of the chopping board plastic.

Should be able to source it from an industrial plastics supplier, it's used in machinery where a low friction wear resistant surface is needed. Not sure how dear it is though.


Cheers..................Sean

Well, I just bought a big cutting board and cut it up on the TS, works fine so far and was only about $15.

Cheers!

[scooter]

That sounds like the go, Stu, I was looking a while back & couldn't find a large chopping board that was straight & flat on the surface, rather than textured in some way.

Chef's supplies could be worth a shot though.


Cheers..............Sean

[Stu in Tokyo]

That sounds like the go, Stu, I was looking a while back & couldn't find a large chopping board that was straight & flat on the surface, rather than textured in some way.

Chef's supplies could be worth a shot though.

Cheers..............Sean

Mine is textured, and it seems to work just fine, in fact it my be a bit more slick because of the texturing...?

A restaurant supply house should do you, it does not need to be thick, mine is maybe 15mm thick?


Cheers!

[Ticky]

Should be able to source it from an industrial plastics supplier, it's used in machinery where a low friction wear resistant surface is needed. Not sure how dear it is though.

Shop around though, you might be surprised at the price diff between some of these suppliers. also, take cash & ask if they have any offcust about Yay x Yay ish. Funnythink, I just got home from one here is Sunny SA & had a quick look at this thread before doing some work.

Far Far North Stu, your table looks great. fantastic work. It's a lot warmer in the lounge room than out in the shed here at the moment anyway.

Paul, Be a real man like the rest of us & when SWMBO tells you what to do, just turn around & tell her "yes dear". Just an idea on the vanity, if it is less than perfect for the little womans new bathroom, you can always turn it into a router table & have another go at the vanity. You could learn from your mistakes, eg., you may not need a sliding splashboard with 2 sets of "T" tracks in the vanity, but you won't really know until after you have built it & had a bit of a look.

Steve

[Stuart]

Good one Ticky - that's the go!!!

Cheers guys - will do some ringing around, see if I can find a local supplier.

Started glueing and screwing the cabinet together. Unlike somethings I do, this is definitely a design as I go type unit!! (And if I don't like it, I'm sure SWMBO may get it as a bathroom vanity..........)

[Gwhat]

Stuart

Try AB Plastics (http://www.abplastics.com.au) in Hallam, or the Plastics Centre in Morrabbin. Both are very helpful and sel offcuts, cut ti size etc.

Regards

The Woodworker

[Stuart]

Thanks Grahame - will check them out.

Would love an Incra fence, but that system will have to wait a very long time I fear. The cabinet for my woodworksupplies router top is coming along - Glued & screwed together the base unit yesterday, but a design change has left me with a bit of rework, and I have to think how best to go forward.

At least the Triton Multistands have been released from servitude.

[Wild Dingo]

I CAN SEE!!! Im not blind!! Did you see that Stuart I CAN SEE!! man aint it wonderful aint it glorious I CAN SEE!! :D :cool:

ahem... now since Im again among the mob with vision ;) I gots a question

So back there on the first page someone damned memory and I was rather excited that I wasnt blind afterall... anyway someone posted a pic of a steal framed table in a garage doorway (that be you Stuart?) anyway Ive got one of them... now its fairly large which Im glad of since I want a wopper router table and so with that in mind Im thinking of going along with much of whats been said here and other places ie: getting the uni-lift and some incra track and using a table saw fence as the router table fence (this will work as Ive tried it! and it fits the full 5ft lenght of the side!) anyway what Im wondering about is how to attach the wheels... ooh I didnt mention that I wanted it to be moverable on wheels which will be lockable... also intend to make drop leaf extentions on either side to extend the table this will help when I rout long strips... but it needs to be on wheels so how does one attach them to this 1in square tubing? weld a plate on the bottom of each leg? weld a angle plate on the wheel so it attached along the side of the leg?

ideas?

Cheers!:cool:

[Bushmiller]

" how does one attach them to this 1in square tubing? weld a plate on the bottom of each leg? weld a angle plate on the wheel so it attached along the side of the leg?"

Dingo

Depends a bit on the type of wheels. If you chose the spindle type see Dizzy's site (I gave the address in an earlier post for this thread.) and click on the router table. He shows his way in the building section. You may otherwise have to use a larger plate if the wheels are secured by multiple srews or bolts.

[scooter]

Can second Grahame's recommendation of AB Plastics in Hallam, I bought the phenolic from them for my router plate & found the service friendly & efficient.


Cheers.................Sean

[Stuart]

Been some time, but finally some developments have been made.

I have bitten the bullet and upgraded to a full LS Incra positioner, so that is pretty exciting to see what that will be capable of.

The Al RHS has been cut to length (915mm), and I've started adding the fittings that I wanted on it. The first is incra positioner racks, so I can accurately place stops. I've decided to make 2 types, (and 2 of each) - imperial (black) and metric (green). They are placed accurately by using another rail on top to hold the track in perfect position until it is secured. I've gone with aluminium rivets - more resistant to vibration, is a good mechanical fastener, and can be easily removed if it proves necessary

There is a t track rail (with imperial/metric scale) on top for stops, and another going on the front for holddowns (probably featherboards). The scale is excellent - I have it going from zero at the centre on 2 lengths, so it can be zeroed to either side of any router bit that is fitted, so stops can be accurately placed a set distance from the cutter. I will add a fine-threaded bolt to the stops (when made) so I can accurately set fractions of a mm (or inch). The positioner racks are either 1mm between positions, or 1/32", with 1/1000" accuracy.

I've gotten some UHMW plastic for the front of the fence - nice and slick, and it will be secured by Tokyo Stu's method. I got a Linbide slot cutter specifically for the task, and did a quick test in some scrap. Fabricating the zero clearance inserts is a job coming up. The stuff ain't cheap - about $400 / square metre.

[Barrie Restall]

Thanks Stuart and Tokyo Stu, this is a great thread, lots of good ideas. After seeing what you two have done (are doing) I've chucked all the mdf/melanine fences and I'm replacing them with the cutting board stuff (aluminium backing fences on most of them).

Its just as dear up here in the north Stuart, the local supplier wanted $485 per sheet (1 x2 metre) plus 15% to cut a piece off it and he only had 12mm stuff. Found a nice big cutting board,500 x 400x 20mm, at the local kitchen ware supplier for $20, so I bought two.

I like the zero clearance inserts, they are on the list. What other neat tricks do you have?

Keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing the finished article, and how is the new Incra jig, looks awesome?

Regards

barrie

[scooter]

Stu, how much was the slot cutter?

Love Linbide stuff, nice thick carbide.


Cheers.................Sean

[Stuart]

$12 :D (Woodworking Warehourse sells Linbide for 50% off)

[Auld Bassoon]

Nice one Stuart!

First pic and I thought "hold on, that's my table / fence, the blighter's nicked it" :D

Incra's pretty exy stuff, but the feel of a machine tool level of accuracy makes the $ issue just go away.

Hmmm. Methinks I'm going to have to bury my CCs as I've bought the LS-17, a Domi and ordered a ... Well, that will have to wait a bit :D :D D:

[Stuart]

Yeah- seeing your table was the final straw - I had to have an LS!
Hope you don't mind - I've already been scavenging stuff from your jig:o

It's being adapted and modified into a drill press incra-positioning fence. Having that accuracy and precise positioning is bloody useful on a drill press table.

[scooter]

$12 :D (Woodworking Warehourse sells Linbide for 50% off)

:eek:

On my way... :D


Cheers.................Sean

[Stuart]

I wouldn't rush - think I might have bought the last one! They will be ordering more I'm sure - but save yourself a trip (or not - good excuse to buy some other router bits!) Give them a ring though - I might be wrong.

In the meantime, if you need one, you can borrow mine.

[scooter]

No worries, thanks for the offer , Stu :)

Good pricing, was that normal or some sort of clearance?

Bought a d/tail bit there a fair while back, but can't remember the price.

BTW, the Craftmaster bits at Bunnings are made by Linbide. Bit dearer than $12 though :rolleyes:


Cheers..............Sean

[Stuart]

That's normal for them these days - they've worked some deal with Linbide, so they can offer the bits for 1/2 price. Not sure how long it'll last (been 6 months or so to date), so I've certainly made use of it :D

Hard to resist - as you say, good carbide, and a genuine 50% off. I can assure everyone of that - I know what the prices were before this offer came in - they were comparable to other retailers of other brands. Now they are well below (eg a finger jointing bit I just bought cost about $70. It's about $150 for another store-branded one, and $220 for a CMT).

Usual disclaimers btw.

[Stuart]

Photo 1: The fence with the rails fully attached, the Incra LS17 mounted and secured to the rails of the router table. Easily removed for use on the Triton workcentre (later development). Sourced the bolts I needed from Seaford Bolts - will definitely be using them again - so much better than retail outlets.

Photo 2: Detail of the T slots. The sacrificial fence still to be added - needed a router fence to make them! The 1.5mm shim needed for the front rail was cut on the Triton.

Photo 3: The Incra fixed to the fence. I needed it fixed before the next step, so drilled the holes then had to get the bolts through the holes without having access from the front!

Photo 4: How I got the bolts in place (not the actual bolts used - they were hi tensile). Bit of T Track and slid it into position, poked through and the track withdrawn. Surprisingly easy :)

Photo 5: Looking inside the fence. Overkill? Sure, overengineered to the max, but self tapping screws and rivets are cheap. They will have minimal detrimental impact on dust extraction.

[Stuart]

Photo 6: Milling the cavity for the bits behind the sacrificial fence. This was done extremely slowly, in multiple passes. Thank #### for the Triton router microadjuster. The aluminium shavings are very fine, almost powdery.

Photo 7: The result :D Very happy with it. It was a bit nerve-wracking, but slowly and carefully was the order of the day. That is a monster bit. Got it on sale from Carbitool - cost all of $20.

Photo 8 & 9: testing the cavity to ensure it works for some of my other large bits. Think the only one that doesn't fit is my 50mm 1/2" straight. But it doesn't matter, as it will be full contained within the sacrificial fence. I might still cut an opening for it. Haven't decided.

Photo 10: The resulting silver sawdust (well actually, router dust, but who's splitting hairs :D )

Next step is to make the sacrificial fences from UHMW plastic. I'm considering whether to add a low friction base to the fence as well. Probably don't need it, but I'm not convinced yet. After that, I will make a cap for each end, and add through-fence dust extraction, going out the end of the fence, so I don't have to drill a hole in the router table (as much as I liked the below-incra dust extraction design).

I then need to make the stops that engage in the incra positioning rails. They will have to be dovetailed :D Also need a 90 degree sliding fence that uses the front T Track.

So, still a fair bit to go, but I'm very happy with the progress so far.

[Barrie Restall]

HI Stuart,

You have changed the position of the imperial and metric racks from the first photo, any particular reason or did it just happen that way?

Good looking job so far, should get a prize when you finish it!

regards

Barrie

[Stuart]

Hadn't noticed! Decided on the positioning based on that the Incra is imperial (the way it has to be, until they start making metric sized dovetail bits, and then metric incra rules), and thought it'd be better to have the predominant rail closer to the T Track. Not that I think it'll make much, if any difference.

Got the prize already - having an Incra positioner on my router table! If you look at Rabster's post http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=37201 you can see why I think so- even if I can't do it, nice to pretend I might be able to!

[Barrie Restall]

It certainly is a nice piece of work, makes the LS 17 very attractive. I'm still learning on my original incra jig (its getting a new fence), but its a long way to go. The LS17 is definitely on the wish list for the future.

Barrie

[Stuart]

Some more progress over the last few days, my UHMW now has 2 T slots running the length of it, and I have 8 centre sections ready to be turned into zero clearance inserts. Now just have to choose which router bits need a zero clearance fence, and which just need a generic one.

Once I have the bolts in place for removing/replacing the UHMW subfence, I will take (and post) some more pics.

The Incra fence is starting to prove it's worth - hot damn! I routed the T Slots, and needed them a skeric (sp?) wider. A few clicks of the 1/1000" microadjuster wheel. Bugger just getting an Incra for special looking joints - it is going to make every job so much better.

[Auld Bassoon]

The Incra kit is neat eh? Trying to figure a way to attach Domi to the Incra setup with a kind of flip-stop arrangement so that I can cut a row or mortices exactly equidistant but somewhat spaced apart (as opposed to doing the same thing with Domi's index pins. Then advance a specific distance and repeat.

At the rate I'm using Dominoes I'll be visiting Anthony soon methinks :rolleyes: