Mortice Chisel - Pigsticker - question

[ddeen]

Is it possible to make a Pigsticker in a home workshop ? Is this project out of the scope of a stubburn do it yourselfer? I tried to do searches on this subject but have not been very successful. It is very easy to go to a store and purchase a tool but I find a lot of joy in using a homemade tool that works well. Any advise appreciated.

Dennis

[echnidna]

Why not, they are simple enough.
Maybe finding the right bit of steel is the biggest problem.

[Hickory]

Morticing chisel is simply a flat chisel ground sidewise, sorta. Him be right, finding the steel is the problem. I kow a fellow who makes tools with Leaf Springs from under Automobiles, How about that?

[BobL]

Morticing chisel is simply a flat chisel ground sidewise, sorta. Him be right, finding the steel is the problem. I kow a fellow who makes tools with Leaf Springs from under Automobiles, How about that?

What size do you have in mind? How about a seriously chunky file? I've got one that is about 1/4" thick and was thinking about cutting slices of each side and using it sideways.

[Andy Mac]

I've made a couple, see here: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=24332&highlight=mortice+chisels
A lot easier to make than normal chisels!:)

Cheers,

[Bodgy]

Deen

After seeing his December post, Andy refers to it above, I made several mortice chisels for myself.

If I can do it, most people with an IQ above room temperature (I'm talking Cetrigrade) and/or at least two functioning limbs, can also.

If you scrape into the either of the above demographics, have a go!

[ddeen]

thanks for the great tips. The size I am looking to make is about 3/8-10mm wide. I like Hickory's tip - I will try and get a hold a leaf spring. If successlful I will post here.

Andy Mac, thanks for the link . Quick question. Did you solder a stop at the bottom of your handle ? What keeps it from driving itself further into the handle when you strike it with a mallet ?

[Hickory]

What keeps it from driving itself further into the handle when you strike it with a mallet ?

I have several Tang Chisels and the Metal Ferrule is what keeps the tang from going any deeper and prevents the splitting.

[Andy Mac]

Hi ddean,
The chisel has a substantial 'washer' or bolster fitted over the tang. It has a rectangular hole filed into it which settles right down onto the shoulder, and then a thick leather washer is fitted before the handle goes on. I haven't bothered soldering the bolster on, its just a light force fit, and with the leather, spreads the shock so the handle doesn't split etc. BTW the handle, according to what I've read (ie. Bob Wearing), is oval shaped and tapered down towards the blade. A very substantial grip.
The steel I've been using is annealed leaf spring stock from a spring works. Soft enough to hacksaw and file, before heat treating.

Cheers,

[Toolin Around]

I've made a few out of square O1 tool steel, tough as. The steel comes square and dead on

[bsrlee]

I got these from www.toolsforworkingwood.com. The catalog they are lying on is roughly A4/Quarto. Made by Ray Isles (brother to Ashley?) in the UK - much easier than getting all by smithing gear out & pounding out a pair on my own. HUGE handles too.

[UKalf]

Made by Ray Isles (brother to Ashley?)
Son (http://www.oldtoolstore.co.uk/) :)

Cheers, Alf

[ddeen]

No where as nice as some of the samples above but got to start somewhere. I got a hold of a used leaf spring for 5 bucks. It is not quite the thickness I am looking for but it is proving to be good practice. If it turns out good I will do my second one with 01 steel (thanks Toolin Around). What is not shown in the picture is a glass of water that I had to constantly had to dip the steel in to keep it cool. Also including WIP of second fishtail chisel I am making. The first one I made is excellent but I wanted to also have one with a narrower tip. My poor battery powered dremmel tool and 5 inch grinder had to work overtime.

[scooter]

Gday Dennis, a 4" angle grinder & a few thin (1/16") cutoff discs would save you a lot of time and wear & tear on your Dremel. They cut fast & relatively cool.

Pretty cheap over here, should be next to nothing over there.

Good work on the chisels, like the houndstooth d/ts on the grinder rest too :)


Cheers..............Sean

[Bodgy]

Dennis

Scoots is spot on re the thin cut-off discs. They cut very quickly and accurately.

I use then for all my steel cuts, if I can't use the cut-off saw, so much better than the standard cut-off wheels.

They wear out a bit quick, but I guess thats to be expected. On reflection tho no quicker than the standard discs.

Another recommendation is you buy a 3M, or clone, polishing disc for the same 4" grinder. These look like a sort of honeycombe, blue in colour (tho that depends on the brand)

They are just the Ducks Guts for polishing away the grind and saw marks. I also use them to clean up old plane soles and cheeks before going to W&D.

For my home made chisels etc, after using the above, I go straight to rouge on a polishing wheel. Mirror finish.

[ddeen]

As I was cutting the steel I was thinking to myself that there has got to be a better way of doing this. Thanks. I will be on the lookout for a grinder on my next trip to the hardware store.

[BobL]

As I was cutting the steel I was thinking to myself that there has got to be a better way of doing this. Thanks. I will be on the lookout for a grinder on my next trip to the hardware store.

Hi,

I use those 125mm (5") diameter x 40"' thin cutting discs on an old 8" x 3000 rpm table saw and these discs cut through steel very nicely. Doing it on a TS means you can used the fence and mitre slide and gives you MUCH more precise control than an angle grinder so you really reduce your follow up grinding time. Of course if you decide to do this on a TS you need to clean out all the sawdust first otherwise the sparks can cause serious problems.

Cheers

[Bodgy]

As I was cutting the steel I was thinking to myself that there has got to be a better way of doing this. Thanks. I will be on the lookout for a grinder on my next trip to the hardware store.

Cheapo Chinese version @ $AUD20 over here, get two and save changing wheels.

[derekcohen]

In my opinion building a correct oval bolstered mortice chisel (never say "pigsticker" in earshot of Joel, owner of Tools for Working Wood) is a difficult job. This is why they were discontinued, and only recently resurrected by Ray Isles.

The steel blade is not a square/rectangular section - it is trapezoid in shape. The bolster is particularly difficult to shape and fit. As described earlier, it has a share "hole". The handle is tapered and oval but I find that these are quite easy to shape. As far as I know, the handle is not fitted with a leather washer but sits flush against the bolster.

Frankly it is cheaper to buy these chisels on eBay.They usually sell from between $10 - $25 (depending on condition). I get them without handles and fit my own. Here are a few:

<center> <div><img src="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Chisels/OvalBolsteadMorticeChiselsWC.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br /></center>

Last issue: all the texts I have read have warned vermently against grinding on the side of a grinding wheel since this action is prone to cause the wheel to shatter.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ddeen]

Here is my completed *sticker;) The journey was a lot of fun and I learned a lot. I will do it again sometime but not anytime soon. I need to get back to woodworking before metalworking sucks me in and turns into another serious hobby.
<O:p</O:p

"Last issue: all the texts I have read have warned vermently against grinding on the side of a grinding wheel since this action is prone to cause the wheel to shatter. "
<O:p</O:pDerek, thanks for the safety tip. I did not know that what I was doing was a issue. I do not want to perpetuate any unsafe practices. Even more reason to purchase a hand held grinder now.<O:p</O:p

[Andy Mac]

Nice work ddeen! You didn't mention how it works?
I had a really good page photocopied from a 1970's UK woodworking mag, step by step how to make one of these, with measurements and angles, and somehow in a refiling frenzy I've lost the blighter. It was by Bob Wearing who had a regular column on handtools. I do remember reading, similar to Derek's statement, that the body is trapezoid, tapered to the spine of the chisel, which I've applied to the several mortice chisels I've made. He also had a thick leather washer in there, and one page I do have still is on rehandling chisels, from the same author and era. Again he shows a leather washer betwixt the handle and bolster. Now I'm certainly not going to argue with Derek over this, as its probably a very minor point, and Derek is rightly considered a master on handtools:) , but I'll continue to fit one according to this old bloke's pattern! I'm wondering whether its a personal touch by Bob, a local variation, or an old style that was discontinued. Some of the photos posted here of commercial mortice chisels (and how beautiful are they?!) certainly lack the leather washer.
Anyway, ddeen, well done, and I hope it works well and using it brings you immense satisfaction!:D

Cheers,

[UKalf]

Nice chisel. :)

Andy Mac, it pains me to say it about Bob Wearing, and maybe he didn't do it for that reason, but I gather the leather washer between handle and bolster is just an easy way to hide any gap if the tang won't drive all the way home. Having rehandled 13 chisels and gouges in the last few days, I can see why it'd be a popular short cut mind you...

Cheers, Alf

[Andy Mac]

the leather washer between handle and bolster is just an easy way to hide any gap if the tang won't drive all the way home.

Fair cop! Shows my true style...:o:rolleyes::D

[ddeen]

Andy, tried it last night on some white pine I have laying around. It works great. It truly is the right tool for the job. I plan on making 2 more (3/8" and 1/2" version) by the end of this year. I have some good steel on order.

"Some of the photos posted here of commercial mortice chisels (and how beautiful are they?!) " You aint lieyin man! True tool .


Based on all above suggestions, comments and what I learned myself my next 2 will have:
Brazed on thick steel washer - my first one has brazed on brass with leather
no leather backing
trapezoid shape
Steel to be cut with hand held grinder

Dennis