shiny 'n oily

[hughie]

Hi,

OK I just been finishing off a piece of Camphor and have given it 4-5 coats of Organoil which has brought out the grain and colour extremely well. But the lady who has requested it has now decide on a ''shiny finish'' rather than the oiled look.

Question how I am I gonna get a gloss finish on this surface? I have thought of waiting several weeks for it to go off then use a oil based poly finish.

Gentlemen your wisdom please :confused:

[Gil Jones]

Hughie, that is a superbly turned bowl, and the wood is stunning!!
I guess if I were in your spot, I would flush the bowl with lacquer thinner (or denatured alcohol [meths]) a couple times, let it dry off for a two days, then apply several coats of lacquer cut 50%. After sealing it as noted, you could continue on with more uncut lacquer, or use wipe on poly. My 2¢ worth.

[Stuart]

Shellawax, followed by EEE perhaps? But then I'm no expert, and I guess it can't be remounted to get a friction finish.

[TTIT]

I've done the same thing off my own bat a few times Hughie. Not sure about organoil but it works with Danish real well. Just rub back with EEE and then apply a coat or 2 of Shellawax cream rubbed on and buffed off. It actually comes up nicer as the oil gives it a richer color than if you had only applied the EEE and Shellawax on it's own.:)
Top looking bowl by the way. Might have been done with a fancy hollowing tool perhaps????;)

[Cliff Rogers]

Instructions with Shellawax Cream say not to use it over another finish so I have never tried it.

[lubbing5cherubs]

I don't know if this will work with organ oil but I love the glossy and oil appearance together so I have been doing equal mix of clear varnish and danish oil
bye Toni

[OGYT]

:eek: Hughie, you know that any Oil takes a long time to set dry, so, if you do as Gil advises, the lacquer thinner will reduce the oil enough to dry faster, and sealing with a 50% mixture of Lacquer/Thinner will seal in the oil, and also bring back the snap to the grain. Then, Gloss Lacquer finishing will be glossy as she can get.
I use Lacquer, because I'm lazy. :o I have a cheap spray gun that I've only cleaned a couple of times in the last 6 or 8 years. I just leave the lacquer in it, year round. When I need to spray something, I quick-connect the air hose, adjust pressure, hit the trigger, and rub my finger over the nozzle. Lacquer melts lacquer... making this possible.
With the newer, hi-build lacquer, the build-up on the nozzle is a little harder to clear by rubbing, so I occasionally take the nozzle off, and drop it into a small jar of thinner.
That's it. Just a suggestion from a stateside... (what's a noddy?). :eek:

[hughie]

Guys thanks for the kind words much appreciated.Getting the shape right takes more time than the darn turning.

Well its virtually finished and so it will be hard to remount for any friction finish, so that stops that. Plus no credible base to grab onto :(

Have tried a friction finish over oil, never had much success there either.:(

I think the flushing with DNA or some such will be the answer, as I can do it with out remounting. Most likely go with a rub on poly, as I have had good success with it on the last few bowls.

The bowl actually looked very ordinary until I gave it several coats of Organoil. Each successive coat further enhanced the colour, the extent of which surprised me. I wonder how it would go soaking in it for a few days........:eek: expensive I suspect, the bowl is 12" in dia

As for tools, I used the Proforme to remove the bulk and a Munro type to tidy it up on the inside followed by a half moon scraper....home made.
The out side a 3/8 bowl gouge and a final scrape, power sanded in side and out to 240grit and hand finish with 1000. Then EEE and a wash off with meths [DNA] so to help the oil penetration.

The bowl is a favour being returned to the lady who gave me the Camphor Laurel . Theres one more to go.......shiny as well. But I have oiled it also :( sure hope the DNA/meths cleans it up well.

[hughie]

[That's it. Just a suggestion from a stateside... (what's a noddy?). :eek:



Hey Al,
A noddy over here is a bit of a turkey.....................:D . My spray gun is out of action........:(

[Stuart]

I've used Shellawax Cream over Organoil successfully in the past fwiw.

[hughie]

I've used Shellawax Cream over Organoil successfully in the past fwiw.

Stuart,
What was the secret? mine was a dismal streaky mess....aaaargh :mad: Could not get a high gloss finish.

[ubeaut]

Shellawax (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/shell.html) can and is often used over Organoil. In fact most of the organoil demo pieces of turned work are actually finished over the top with Shellawax. That's why they are still shiny after some 10 years. Matter of fact the shiniest piece of all was turned by me and finished with Shellawax over the top with one of the Organoil directors helping.

Instructions don't say not to use it over oil. What the instructions actually say is:

U-Beaut Polishes and their agents, accept no responsibility for problems arising from the use of Shellawax over: any oil, sanding sealer, oil or spirit based dye and stain, water based stain, pre-finish or any other finish - including, polyurethane, lacquer, varnish, French polish, etc.

The reason for this is because we have no control over some of the stupid things people try to do with our product. I take no responsibility for the stupidity of others. Only my own.

Cheers - Neil :)

[ubeaut]

What was the secret? mine was a dismal streaky mess....aaaargh :mad: Could not get a high gloss finish.

It's a fair bet your application method was to fault. From the sounds of it you most likely you used way too much cream. A bowl with a diameter of around 6" would need a dob about the size of your little finger nail, even that might be too much.

Ideally you use Shellawax (liquid) or Shellawax Glow over Organoil.

Might also be worth a look at this http://www.ubeaut.com.au/swinfo.html

Cheers - Neil :)

[Hickory]

For an ugly bloke you turn out fine lookin' kids.... :p

Real attractive work there. Thanks for the post. The accent ring sets off the bowl.

[hughie]

For an ugly bloke you turn out fine lookin' kids.... :p

Real attractive work there. Thanks for the post. The accent ring sets off the bowl



Hickory , Thanks :D are condemned with faint praise. I think the edge of a bowl needs a lot of consideration as it sets it off or sinks it. I spend as much time on the egde as I do contemplating the over all shape.

[hughie]

a fair bet your application method was to fault. From the sounds of it you most likely you used way too much cream. A bowl with a dianetre of around 6" would need a dob about te size of your little finger nail, aven tht maight be too much.

Ideally you use Shellawax (liquid) or Shellawax Glow over Organoil.


Neil, Thanks for that, true I used more than recommended. Will give it another go.

[TimberNut]

Hughie,

A lot of things I turned years ago were only ever finished with Organoil then Shellawax. Most of them were Camphor too.

I didn't read the label (sorry Neil) and nobody told me it wouldn't work. I loved the colour the oil brought out, and the wax buffed up real nice.

I think Neils right with the comment about too much wax (of course, I wouldn't dare to claim to know more than Neil about his products....:p ).

My budget was real tight, so I was using Shellawax as sparingly as possible - Never had a problem. (lucky I didn't read the label, maybe I wouldn't have tried it)

Now I read the labels all the time, and I think my finishing is suffering as a result.....

[Cliff Rogers]

... (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/shell.html)Instructions don't say not to use it over oil. ...


This is the bit I was referring to...

Apply to raw timber. Both Shellawax and Shellawax Cream are designed to be applied directly onto raw timber.

[ubeaut]

OK Cliff ya got me dead to rights.

The reason for that is because many turners, were and still do, insist on putting it over sanding sealer (not ours but the thick gluggy stuff) and the polish really needs to key itself into the pores of the timber where it basically becomes one with the wood. Then there were the ones who wanted to brush it on over French polish and other finishes including paint (bloody good paint stripper).

Had one bloke in the US contact us because he reckoned he had a faulty batch. He had applied 3 coats that looked terrible and there was no way he could get it to shine. I asked what speed he was running his lathe at and he said something like: "What lathe, I'm painting it onto a bed." Have you read the instructions I asked: "Nup never read instructions, they're a waste of time." I won't go into the rest of the conversation, suffice to say it didn't last much longer.

I was going to use the words foolproof in the instructions, but as you can see from the above, those fools are just to damn ingenious for their own good. http://www.ubeaut.biz/banghead.gif

It can be used over EEE which it is designed to be compatible with. It can also work over our Sanding Sealer and over organoil. Basically because it is still being allowed to key into the timber with all of these.

Putting it over the gluggy sanding sealer and other base coats will in most instances exclude it from the timber, making it into a surface coating and thus much easier to damage.

Think that just about covers it all.

Cheers - Neil :)

[Auld Bassoon]

Neil, Thanks for that, true I used more than recommended. Will give it another go.

That's ok as it's a Blokely thing not to read the instructions, isn't that correct Col (CSaF) {Code Scribe and Founder} :D :D :D

[reeves]

i have been using the shellawax GLOW for a while and its adds that extra shiny sheen to EEE or oil based finishes. I would run some EEE over the oil and then the glow, just to give it a wax base.

If ya dont wanna just wack it back on and sand off the oil.

Its fair to say the Shellawax glow over oil is also ok, long as the oil is well dry, i would do a light say 600-1200 sanding job on the oil and hit it with the GLOW.....its darker than the average shellawax in consistency but doesnt darken the wood anymore, and 2 or 3 coats will shine like a mirror...just make sure u buff any 'runs' out with a clean cloth or pad..

[hughie]

Its fair to say the Shellawax glow over oil is also ok, long as the oil is well dry, i would do a light say 600-1200 sanding job on the oil and hit it with the GLOW.....its darker than the average shellawax in consistency but doesnt darken the wood anymore, and 2 or 3 coats will shine like a mirror...just make sure u buff any 'runs' out with a clean cloth or pad..[/


As the weather here has been cold and damp its fair to say I did not give it enough time to fully dry and the rest as they say is history. :(

[rsser]

Lovely bowl Hughie - you've made the most of the figure.

Bernie Kiyabu was a turner I took lessons from down here in Melb and for a while he finished all his bowls with Organoil and then wax over the top buffed with a lambswool bonnet on a rubber disc.

I learned to let the bowl sit for a few weeks after the oil before waxing and buffing.

Good luck.

[hughie]

.




I learned to let the bowl sit for a few weeks after the oil before waxing and buffing


Ern,
Yep! Thats the 'rub' of it all, my impatience again.

[powderpost]

For what it's worth, I finish my laminated bowls with anything from one to four thin coats of sanding sealer, depending on the timber species, sanding between coats until I get a hint of wood powder. Then up to four coats of lacquer, sanding between coats with 0000 steel wool. For a matt finish, thats it. For a fine gloss finish I then use EEE paste and plenty of elbow grease. For spindles, fine sanding followed with shellawax or s###hot wax stick. I choose lacquer because the spray gun doesn't need cleaning after every application, but I do stir the lacquer before spraying because it will settle in the gun. Spray gun maintenance consists of droping the nozzle in some lacquer thinners when I think of it. Probably not good but it works.
Jim

[OGYT]

I choose lacquer because the spray gun doesn't need cleaning after every application, but I do stir the lacquer before spraying because it will settle in the gun. Spray gun maintenance consists of droping the nozzle in some lacquer thinners when I think of it. Probably not good but it works. Jim
Powderpost, that's the same thing I've been doing for years. Lacquer is really nice, for lazy types like me.:D