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View Full Version : Bathroom reno for Dummies.....



anawanahuanana
17th August 2006, 11:55 AM
OK, you guys seem like a patient bunch, so, for the last time I promise, I'm going to ask everything I ever wanted to know before I reno both my bathrooms. Some has probably been covered before, but I bet I'm missing bits by searching all the other posts, so I just wanted to have all the info in one place. Hopefuly it should help others too.......

1: The shower in the en suite has its waste in the middle at one side, if you know what I mean. As is, equidistant from the ends, and only a couple of inches from one side, the side where the door is. I know it goes straight down, so I guess the new shower waste will have to go here for ease. Not having a tray, but will make up a tiled hob using some cut hebel blocks (about 60mm hight hob sound reasonable?). Problem is, I know I can slope the shower froor down to the waste from one side and the ends, but if I slop it from the hob (from the top of the hebel block) height to the drain from the door side it'll be like a 1 in 1 slope or something ridiculous! So, what are my options here?

2: I know once I've removed the existing floor tiles, I need to relevel the floor with some SLC. After this is done, I need to mortar the floor (not forgetting the angles in the doorways) to create the fall to waste in the shower and the rest of the bathroom to fall to the floor waste. What is this mortar made of, and in what proportions?> Different people seem to do their own thing with it, but I just need to know what to ask for when I buy it! Also, what exactly defines a float? A piece of 4 by 2?

3: Angles in doorways. If you imagine standing in the bedroom looking through the ensuite door, the floor in the bedroom and bathroom are currently at the same height. If I use SLC on the bathroom floor, then build it up 50mm at the edges and slope it down to the waste, aren't I going to be left with a big step in the doorway?

4: I'll most probably get the waterproofing done by a professional, as I really don't wat it getting ballsed up. However, if I did choose to do it myself, what is the story with bond breakers? I know they are flexible material that go in the floor to wall joins to allow for movement, but I guess they go in before any waterproofing is put down? The booklets from James Hardie I have downloaded and digested show some sort of foam rod? What's that all about?

5: I want to change the floor wastes that I currently have, as they are the obiquitous beige plastic hexagonal efforts. Is it required to change the entire waste assembly, or can you just change the top part? If you need to change the whole thing, how do you remove it. Just pull it out?

6: This is my (rough plan). Any comments about missing bits or order would be most appreciated.... ie: where does flashing come into it?

a: rip out old bathroom and blank water fittings.
b: remove old wall and floor tiles. remove damaged villaboard/gyprock.
c: use SLC on floor. (fit new floor wastes here or after mortar on floor?)
d: replace walling with villaboard. use masonite on studs to build up so villaboard is same level as existing gyprock?
e: plaster joins in walling using tile adhesive as will be tiling on top.
f: affix angles to floor in doorways,shower entrance. cut hebel blocks and affix to shower doorway to form hob edge
g: mix up mortar. somehow.
h: Lay mortar on floor and in shower recess, lower than doorway angles, so once tiles are laid, floor is at same height as top of angles.
g: slope mortar down to wastes (1:60 gradient approx?)
h: let mortar dry well.
i: get waterproofer in, to do all required areas
j: tile floor. somehow make tiles fit shower floor......
k: tile walls to desired/required heights
l: fit shower, vanity, toilet, taps.
m: put water back on. get wet

Anything I've missed, need to know, or am getting wrong, please advise. I have a feeling there may be more than one thing.

Thanks again for your time and assistance