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ss_11000
20th August 2006, 09:00 PM
hi all, i finally decided to try turning bowls in out board mode and i find it a whole lot easier and more enjoyable..

anyway, just to make sure i'm doing it the right way....can someone please tell me if i have got it set up right.

and here is the result of my first outboard turning, a camphor bowl finished ubeaut style.

Toasty
20th August 2006, 09:10 PM
It's nice when you don't have to bend over the lathe. Looks like you have got it setup pretty good.

Auzzie turner
20th August 2006, 09:13 PM
Yep that's right, did you say the wood was camphor laurel? What chisels did you use? An easier way, is to swing it so it is not all the way outboard, just halfway between inboard and outboard. Lovely bowl, and excellent timber, Ive seen a huge improvememnt.

Regards.........Joash

powderpost
20th August 2006, 09:15 PM
Looks pretty good to me. Well finished too.
Jim

Auzzie turner
20th August 2006, 09:15 PM
How did you do the bowl, did you use a faceplate? How are you turning it in the second pic? Are you turning the poutside before you turn the inside?

ss_11000
20th August 2006, 10:18 PM
thanx guys, i thought it was set up properly but had to make sure.


joash, i'm still doing stuff with just the face plate. the last 2 bowls i have turned i have done the base/ outside first then hollowed,.

the main reason they look better is because of the finish, since neil gave me a rotary sander, my finishes have improved out of site IMO.

yep, the woods cl, why do you want to know bout the chisels? they are the hss set from carbatec.

Gil Jones
21st August 2006, 01:11 AM
Good looking bowl, Stirlo!!

hughie
21st August 2006, 01:25 AM
[anyway, just to make sure i'm doing it the right way....can someone please tell me if i have got it set up right.


Stirlo, thats the way it goes. But you will find that its not that rigid. MC out board setup has size limitations, for me too much so. So I made a further extension which gives a very wide range of dia's, something around 600-700mm

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=29258&highlight=MC1100+mods

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=23684&highlight=MC1100+mods

Also if you want to bring out the grain more in the Camphor Laurel try danish oil [ Organoil] , several coats. I know the recommend only two coats, but 3-4 really brings it out.

cya

TTIT
21st August 2006, 08:55 AM
Stirlo - What Hughie said, but if you can't get to the mods, grab a lump of pipe or even a board just a little longer than the distance from the floor to the bottom of the banjo extension. Position the rest where you want it and jam the pipe in under the post of the toolrest. It will take out the flex in the banjo's and stop any chatter you're getting, especially noticeable when you get onto bigger diameters.:D

Nice bowl by the way!

hughie
21st August 2006, 10:43 AM
- What Hughie said, but if you can't get to the mods, grab a lump of pipe or even a board just a little longer than the distance from the floor to the bottom of the banjo extension. Position the rest where you want it and jam the pipe in under the post of the toolrest. It will take out the flex in the banjo's and stop any chatter you're getting, especially noticeable when you get onto bigger diameters.:D


Damn good idea! low tech, but will work everytime and cheeeeeeeap:D




Nice bowl by the way!


Ditto from me, sori forgot last time.

ss_11000
21st August 2006, 06:12 PM
mmmmm. food for thought. if i ever get pieces to big for the tool rest, i'll will definately consider trying to copy your mods, or try ttit's method. thanx for sharing

thanx for the finishing tip too

Skew ChiDAMN!!
21st August 2006, 08:35 PM
hi all, i finally decided to try turning bowls in out board mode and i find it a whole lot easier and more enjoyable..

'Bout time, too! :D

I honestly don't understand why anyone would do any hollowing in normal mode. Outboard gives you so much more access. But a good support is bloody important! I'm another who simply uses a length of gal waterpipe.

Zed
22nd August 2006, 08:50 AM
thin the walls down a bit on the next one. make sure the angle of the inside wall is the same as the angle of the outside wall too. remember what richard raffan sez : no straight lines in a bowl. (ie edges) the other thing you could consider is to make the lip of the bowl less prominant - ie rounded or a point rather than a squarish edge. nice effort however - dont let me discourage you with my critisism.

nice timber too.

hows me suger scoops coming along ?:)

ss_11000
23rd August 2006, 06:56 PM
thin the walls down a bit on the next one. make sure the angle of the inside wall is the same as the angle of the outside wall too. remember what richard raffan sez : no straight lines in a bowl. (ie edges) the other thing you could consider is to make the lip of the bowl less prominant - ie rounded or a point rather than a squarish edge. nice effort however - dont let me discourage you with my critisism.

nice timber too.

hows me suger scoops coming along ?:)

thanx for the suggestions zed, its good to get that kind of feedback.:)
the reason why the walls are thick is because there is actually a crack that runs thru it and i thought if i took too much off, it would open up too much and may have come off.

i've been trying to think of ways to get around making the scoops with out a chuck and i haven't got real far with that.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
23rd August 2006, 07:03 PM
Actually, one time you do want thicker, squared edges like that is if you're going to run a bandsaw through the middle and glue the two rims together.

Can make for some unusual bowls/vases when done properly. :)

Auzzie turner
23rd August 2006, 07:08 PM
Hey stirlo, are you trying to make some sugar scoops? You could try making them like the way I do. See picture I don't know how you could make them without a chuck though. What timber are you making them out of? My one is lemon scented gum. I would reccommend a timber that is easy to turn into end-grain, but hard enough for the usual kitchen bangs,dings etc: Let me know, if you make them,

Regards.......Joash:)

Auzzie turner
23rd August 2006, 07:09 PM
What do you mean by that, can you give us an example?

ss_11000
23rd August 2006, 07:52 PM
:confused:
Actually, one time you do want thicker, squared edges like that is if you're going to run a bandsaw through the middle and glue the two rims together.

Can make for some unusual bowls/vases when done properly. :)

you've lost me:confused:

josh, i dont know wether zed wants them like that or like a hollow hemisphere type shape. i haven't asked him yet because i haven't figured how to make either:confused:

rowie
23rd August 2006, 08:16 PM
:confused:

you've lost me:confused:

josh, i dont know wether zed wants them like that or like a hollow hemisphere type shape. i haven't asked him yet because i haven't figured how to make either:confused:do a search on the net for works done by a yank bloke named ''Hogbin'' should answer your question;)
as for curving the front edge of the scoop, u need to cut it with a bandsaw.as for holding it without a chuck, it could/can be done but it would be too hard for me to explain it :mad:

Skew ChiDAMN!!
23rd August 2006, 08:31 PM
:confused:

you've lost me:confused:

Let's say you've got a plain old wide but shallow bowl. Run a bandsaw straight down the middle, so you've got two halves of the bowl... then flip one side over and glue 'em together by what used to be the rim. Sorta like a mussel shell.

If I get time tomorrow, I'll knock one together. Depends on other things, but I'll try.


josh, i dont know wether zed wants them like that or like a hollow hemisphere type shape. i haven't asked him yet because i haven't figured how to make either:confused:

You've already figured out one way... although I like to taper the scoop profile a bit before making the cutaway. I also like to use off-centre turning for the handle, so people scratch their heads and ask "but how did you do it?" ;)

For the hemishere type, just turn a ball on a handle between centres. Then mount a disk of ply or MDF to a faceplate, with a radius slightly bigger than the length of the spoon. Hollow the centre so the ball will fit snugly, like a jam-chuck, but with the handle lying flat on the disk. (You can use a smaller disk, but the bigger disk won't have the handle overhanging and being a "phantom menace.")

It's held in place by saddling over the handle (offcuts of wood screwed on) and the ball part can then be carefully hollowed out.

It really is quite simple. :)

Edit: Added a quick sketch of what I'm talking about... this is the "mace" mounted on the disk. As ya can see, the handle is the main thing holding it in position so BE CAREFUL when hollowing the bowl... otherwise the neck of the handle tends to snap. DAMHIKT. Oh... and even though the handle doesn't overhang, it still hurts yer knuckles if you brush against it. DAMHIKT either! :D

rowie
23rd August 2006, 08:40 PM
For the hemishere type, just turn a ball on a handle between centres. Then glue a disk of ply or MDF to a faceplate, with a raidus slightly bigger than the length of the spoon. Hollow the centre so the ball will fit snugly, like a jam-chuck, but with the handle lying flat on the disk. You can use a smaller disk, but the bigger disk won't have the handle overhanging and being a "phantom menace."

It's held in place by saddling over the handle (offcuts of wood screwed on) and the ball part can then be carefully hollowed out.

It really is quite simple. :) I'll see about knocking up a quick sketch of the faceplate setup. May take me a while... :rolleyes:

rowie
23rd August 2006, 08:44 PM
It really is quite simple. :) I'll see about knocking up a quick sketch of the faceplate setup. May take me a while... :rolleyes:[/quote]

nice one skew, a picture tells a thousand words;) . pity im not compewter litterit enuff to post sketches let alone photos:o :o :o getting there tho:p

rowie
23rd August 2006, 08:48 PM
se what i mean!

ss_11000
23rd August 2006, 08:51 PM
i actually saw a video on making a scoop, similar to the one joash made but i couldn't figure out how to make it without a chuck. but now skew and rowie have told me, i have to find a suitable bit of wood to try it with.:)


edit: reread a few times what skew said and it seems like a perfectly good idea. :)

Skew ChiDAMN!!
24th August 2006, 04:40 PM
Actually, one time you do want thicker, squared edges like that is if you're going to run a bandsaw through the middle and glue the two rims together.
and

you've lost me :confused:

OK... Had some spare time over lunch (a whole 20mins or so :rolleyes: ) so I knocked this together to show what I mean. It's not my best work by far, but as a demo piece it'll do.

Pic 1. A small Jarrah dish. As ya can see, it's alright but nothing to write home about. Would look better with thinner walls and no detail in the middle, but even then it'd be just another bowl. The thick walls and inner detail were deliberately added for the next step although normally I'd turn the walls to around half this thickness. I wanted to exaggerate it a bit so you can see what I mean though. [shrug] You should also notice that I didn't sand/finish the rim or the very centre of the bowl... this is so the glue will stick there better, later!

Pic 2. The bottom of the bowl. Again, nothing fancy, 'cept a bit of detail to mirror the detail on the inside and the lines around the lip to help conceal the glue-joint later.

Pic 3. Butchery time. Normally I'd cut straight across but this time I thought I'd try something fancier. Just set the table on my BS to 45° and went for it. I stuffed up though... you'll see this better in:

Pic 4. All glued up. See where I buggered up? :o

Not to worry, I'll fix that later. Once the glue has dried, I'll break out the files, rasps, sander, dremel or whatever else comes to hand (axe? chipper? :D) and clean up/reshape the new "rim", removing the BS marks and generally making it look pretty. Then I'll square a small section of the bottom on the BS/belt sander to make a foot and refinish the whole thing, finally hand-rubbing it with wax. I plan to turn a small disk of snowflake corian to glue in what used to be the centre of the bottom, just as an accent piece.

RETIRED
24th August 2006, 05:27 PM
and



Pic 4. All glued up. See where I buggered up? :o

Bloody rush jobs!!!;) :D

RETIRED
24th August 2006, 05:32 PM
http://www.makersgallery.com/hogbin/

http://www.mintmuseum.org/mason/masonsite/hogbin.html

http://www.archives.gov.on.ca/english/exhibits/art_qp/page_15_hogbin.htm

Skew ChiDAMN!!
24th August 2006, 08:22 PM
Bloody rush jobs!!!;) :D

:D Yeah, it's more than a bit slap-dash but what the heck. [shrug]

I got bored waiting for tucker, so just killed another half-an-hour in the shed, finishing it up. I could spend hours getting it "right" but don't particularly like it much so didn't bother. Just a quicky reshape and finish.

It'll do for hanging on the wall and throwing keys, etc in, but all in all not bad for less than an hours' work. :rolleyes:

ss_11000
24th August 2006, 09:58 PM
geez skew. that is great.

and the links provided are great too:)

rowie
24th August 2006, 10:50 PM
http://www.makersgallery.com/hogbin/

http://www.mintmuseum.org/mason/masonsite/hogbin.html

http://www.archives.gov.on.ca/english/exhibits/art_qp/page_15_hogbin.htm
thats the bloke, thanks ;)