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View Full Version : Bench or floorstanding drill press?



zelk
12th September 2006, 03:55 PM
I would like opinion on which is better, a floorstanding drill press or a bench drill press mounted on a base with castors ?
Zelk

floobyduster
12th September 2006, 04:09 PM
Depends upon what the largest thing you want to put under it to drill is. If you mount it on a bench make it so you can swing it over the side if need be. Free space around the drill press is good.

Auzzie turner
12th September 2006, 04:09 PM
floorstanding

Add a poll to this thread for more results

MurrayD99
12th September 2006, 04:19 PM
I prefer to have the drillpress anchored firmly to the floor. Most other machines are on bases but this one is a bit tall and top-heavy for my likes. Could be OK if it is fixed to an oversize based - but not ideal... I like it where it is.

HappyHammer
12th September 2006, 04:20 PM
Assuming the power is the same isn't it simply a case of the distance between the chuck and the table being greater on the stand version?

HH.

Bodgy
12th September 2006, 04:26 PM
Assuming the power is the same isn't it simply a case of the distance between the chuck and the table being greater on the stand version?

HH.

I think it can be more than that. I need to get a floor mounted drill press cause the throat on my bench press is too small.

It seems that the pedestal drills are generally bigger than the bench variety, least thats what I found. Obviously there's more depth.

I like this one:

http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&show_tabid=1&cPath=100_340_900&sort=20a

although it could do with a bit more grunt.

$250 at the shows.

craigb
12th September 2006, 04:29 PM
If you have the room then go for floorstanding.

zelk
12th September 2006, 04:44 PM
Thanks guys, does one ever use the full height capacity of a floorstander? It seems that the throat capacity is the same with both, that have the same hp. The base would end up much wider than the existing drill base and so would not compromise stability unless it's compared to one that is bolted to a surface. I like the idea of being able to move it around.
Zelk

Lignum
12th September 2006, 04:50 PM
Thanks guys, does one ever use the full height capacity of a floorstander?

Thats why a bench mounted one on a sturdy timber base bolted to the wall is the go:)

zelk
12th September 2006, 04:54 PM
A bit a lateral thinking Lignum, how about a base with castors that is fixed to the wall but can detach when needed?
Zelk

Harry72
12th September 2006, 06:49 PM
How bout a floor stander bolted like its supposed to be with a cabinet of draws that fits around it on castors and hinge at the front inbetween the drawers!(like a clam shell sort of)
When you want full height just hinge the cabinet open and wheel it out of the way!!!

Stuart
12th September 2006, 08:28 PM
If you have the room then go for floorstanding.
Even if you don't have floorspace, go with the floor model.

Lignum
12th September 2006, 08:32 PM
But when do you ever use the extra depth of the floorstander over the bench model? And if you ever need the extra depth when its on a bench or stand you just swing it out and get it. I have a bench and floor stander and the bench is better and sturdier and i use it 98% of the time:)

IanW
12th September 2006, 09:03 PM
Have to admit Lignum has a point. I bought a floor model after years of owning a (fairly small) bench type. I constantly had a problem with the limited height on that thing, partly because the somewhat Heath-Robinson wooden vice I used took up a good 75mm of head-room. But although I use a lot more travel in the floor jobbie, it is avery rare occasion that I use much more than 350-400mm.

However, I do prefer my floor-stander, not least because in my case, it is a much better quality machine than the old benchtop job. As stationary tools go, it really has a small footprint, and as a bonus, you tend to work at a height that keeps protruding bits of the job above standard bench height, so it can be sited quite close to other, lower, staionary tools (like my grinder) or benches. I also like having the end of the bench that used to be blocked by an immovable tool, freed-up (to pile other stuff on! :rolleyes: ), but at least it's moveable).

Horses for courses - a bench model with equivalent swing usually costs only about $50 bucks less than the equivalent floor model, so the choice boils down to what fits the available space best, more than anything else.

My 2c,

Greg Q
12th September 2006, 09:15 PM
It may depend also on how tall you are. I have a bench model, bought specifically so that I could mount it on a stand tall enough to bring the average workpiece high enough to prevent posture problems.

My bench has rear castors and a spot in front where my small trolley jack can fit for mobility. When in place, and jacked down, its plenty stable. The drawers in the stand house the many hole drilling items that accumulate over the years.

When I made the stand I allowed for a spot to store the shop made table, but I have yet to remove it.

I have used a few floor standers, and a couple of bench mounted over the years, and would now always opt for the bench type.

Greg

Manix77
12th September 2006, 10:08 PM
G'Day Zelk

I went for the bench mounted option. I figure 99% of my drilling requirement will be catered for within the limits of the bench mounted drill. I have mine mounted on a largeish and heavy mobile stand and it's plenty stable. For the 1% of the time where the bench mount isn't high enough I can swing the drill off to the side of the stand (I've never done this other than as an experiment). When swung over the side the stand is probably less stable but it wasn't immediately noticable. This method also gives me more height than most floor mounted models.

I've recently bought a new, much larger drill press

http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=100_340_880

and I intend to do the same with this one.

regards

Manix

BobL
13th September 2006, 01:10 AM
IMHO the folks advocating swinging the head of a DP over a void are missing a major point. The critical factor is the distance between the hopefully solid and perp/square DP table on which you can easily place a vice or table of some sort and hold your piece, and the bottom of the chuck. On a bench type DP this distance is typically 350 mm, on a floor model its around twice that. If you add to your standard DP table another table or vice and then a working bit you lose even more differential height. In my case where I use a 2-way cross slide vice which is 100 mm high, plus say a 100mm long bit, I would only have 150 mm left under a bench model but on a floor standing model I have some 500mm left to play with. If you use longer bits the situation only gets worse. Sure you can swing the head over a void and mess about with external clamps and getting the piece square to the bit etc but after using both I would definitely recommend a floor standing DP if you have the space.

I have also raised my DP up off the floor by about 150mm (so that I don't have to bend over it) by bolting it to a 500 x 500 mm frame made of 100 x 100 mm timber. The frame has 4 x 19mm diam bolts inserted underneath at the corners of the frame that act as levelling feet so that it does not rock. It's also tied to the wall at the top but it's so squeezed in between bits of other gear it has bugger all room to fall anywhere. At some stage I will add rollers to the frame so I can jack it up and move it about - although I don't know where to because I have no room left in my shed.

Bodg, I got this close to buying one of the radial units but I would recommend trying before buying especially if you intend to do any sort of metal working. Firstly they take up more room because of the radial aspect. Then they usually have limited either low and/or high end speeds. They're fine for light weight stuff but the one I played with rattled like a steam train and the longer belts were slipping and squealing too much for me even during normal drilling operations.

Mirboo
13th September 2006, 02:03 AM
It may depend also on how tall you are. I have a bench model, bought specifically so that I could mount it on a stand tall enough to bring the average workpiece high enough to prevent posture problems.

I agree with Greg. I find that I have to stoop a bit too much to see what is going on with a floor standing drill press. I've got a bench mount one that is bolted to a bench that is high enough to bring the drill chuck to a level that is slightly below my eye level. I find this a good set-up. I can stand up straight when using it and don't have any posture issues.

bsrlee
13th September 2006, 02:36 AM
Anybody else seen the 'sexy' new drill presses for Powermatic (Jet) and Delta? Great time for Carbatec to toss in the Delta agency :(

They both claim to have been devised for woodworkers - ~10" (250mm) spindle travel, spindle locks on the threaded rod depth stops, one hand variable speed (Delta has a handwheel on the front, Jet has a slider on the side - no idea about the internal mechanics, possibly the same as the MC900/1100 lathe?).

Laser sights, replaceable table inserts for sanding drums as well as sacrificial inserts for thru drilling, Jet has slide out table extensions. And both have 'digital' speed readouts - the Delta have a premium model with digital drill depth reading as well.

ernknot
13th September 2006, 06:09 AM
I vote for the floor standing model. You can leave it set up if you do repetitive work and it is not in the way of your precious bench space. Also if it stands close to a wall you can also fit drill racks and other bits and pices you develop over time. Mine is not bolted down, I have three pices of railway line laying accross the bottom plate and the thing hardly moves and it remains movable if need be. If you want to see your work eye level, sit on a stool.

Iain
13th September 2006, 08:15 AM
I went for both and they get used equally although the bench is more precise (REcord) than the floor model (rebearinged Ryobi).
For big crude drilling jobs I use the floor press, next to the roller door so the work hangs outside, and the little one for starter holes for scrollsaw work as the big chucks accepts a .6mm drill bit, and there us no run out.

IanW
13th September 2006, 08:32 AM
.......Laser sights, replaceable table inserts for sanding drums as well as sacrificial inserts for thru drilling, Jet has slide out table extensions. And both have 'digital' speed readouts - the Delta have a premium model with digital drill depth reading as well.

As Soctrates is reputed to have said : "so many things I don't need..." ;)

BobL
13th September 2006, 10:34 AM
They both claim to have been devised for woodworkers - ~10" (250mm) spindle travel . . . .

I hope they are all floor mounted models. To use the full 250 mm travel you need a 250 mm long drill. On a standard bench DP height between table and chuck (~350 mm), assuming you don't use a vice or additional table that leaves a maximum distance of 100 mm of wood to drill through.

zelk
13th September 2006, 10:47 AM
I hope they are all floor mounted models. To use the full 250 mm travel you need a 250 mm long drill. On a standard bench DP height between table and chuck (~350 mm), assuming you don't use a vice or additional table that leaves a maximum distance of 100 mm of wood to drill through.

I can see the value of 250mm travel in situations where the workpieces vary in height and it's a hassle to change the drilling platform height.
Zelk

Waldo
13th September 2006, 11:33 AM
I've got a bench mount one that is bolted to a bench that is high enough to bring the drill chuck to a level that is slightly below my eye level. I find this a good set-up. I can stand up straight when using it and don't have any posture issues.

G'day,

Agree with Mirboo and have my bench mounted d/press set up in the same way for the same reasons. But being 6' 4" my eye height could be a bit high for some. :eek:

BobL
13th September 2006, 01:12 PM
I don't see bench DPs having an advantage over floor DPs because of being able to change Bench DP working heights. Both can be raised to a more personable height by placing something underneath them.

MurrayD99
13th September 2006, 01:31 PM
Y'see, if you put it on the bench you lose bench space.... whereas if you bolt it to the floor against a wall it doesn't take up much space at all. Another point: if you put a square of that 1" cushion stuff under it it damps vibration against the concrete. Not wanting to be too dogmatic of course...

Lignum
13th September 2006, 01:51 PM
Need a poll to see if anyone actualy bolts their floorstander down;)

Heres my bench DP and its a perfect height for my eyes and the stand is bolted to the back wall and the DP is "rock solid" and you get the space below it for putting things on not to mention a few $$$$ cheaper than a floorstander

IanW
13th September 2006, 02:10 PM
Need a poll to see if anyone actualy bolts their floorstander down;)

Lig, there was a thread on that very topic a few months or so ago. I think it was probably about 50/50. I'm 'gunna' bolt mine down when I figure out the perfect permanent spot. (Only had it 7 or 8 years, y'see :rolleyes: )

My latest plan is to bolt it to a couple of hefty hunks of hardwood, with cam-operated castors, for those times it needs to be moved out to accomodate an odd-shaped job, (or if I decide it has to live in some compltetely different spot). Started putting things on wheels last year, and don't know why I hadn't done it years ago!

FWIW,

MurrayD99
13th September 2006, 02:24 PM
Need a poll to see if anyone actualy bolts their floorstander down;)

Heres my bench DP and its a perfect height for my eyes and the stand is bolted to the back wall and the DP is "rock solid" and you get the space below it for putting things on not to mention a few $$$$ cheaper than a floorstander

What you got there, Lignum, is OK....:) but for a machine freak, the sight of that extra couple of feet of polished steel is just undeniably beautiful.

Harry72
13th September 2006, 06:22 PM
But when do you ever use the extra depth of the floorstander over the bench model? And if you ever need the extra depth when its on a bench or stand you just swing it out and get it. I have a bench and floor stander and the bench is better and sturdier and i use it 98% of the time:)

Speaker boxes, dowels in the ends of cd rack sides etc etc

derekcohen
13th September 2006, 07:06 PM
Need a poll to see if anyone actualy bolts their floorstander down

Lig, absolutely mine is bolted down to the floor.

I bought a Carba-tec 3/4 hp version about 10 years ago. Very reliable.

The fact is that a floorstanding DP takes up less room than a bench mounted DP. You can site it in some other those otherwise awkward and unused spots of the workshop. A bench mounted BP must have a bench or cabinet under it. Either you build this (taking up more room) or you use existing (possibly valuable) real estate.

Most tasks do not require the extra throw of a floor standing model. BUT when you need it, then you ... well ... have it. There are more common situations when we use jigs - such as a two-way sliding vise - and these will require more headroom. Bob makes this point as well.

I have added an Easy Riser (http://www.piricdesign.com.au/)to my DP. This certainly makes it easier to raise/lower the table. Winding is frustrating and the amount of it on a floorstanding model was its weakness. No longer.

If I had the choice of a floor or bench mounted DP all over again, I would not do it any differently.

Regards from Perth

Derek