Success!!!!

[Flowboy]

Hi all,
Sorry about the new thread, but I didn't want this to get lost.

Using the Domino to create tenoned mitre joints in narrow stock works.:) :)
I have provided some pics below.
Essentially;
5mm cutter, Domino set to 45degrees, cutting height 13mm, cutting depth 20mm.
Cutting guide 19mm thick, 45 degree face. Distance from back of workpiece mitre to furthewst point of guide mitre 24mm.
Tenons, 10x5x100 cut on Leigh FMT. Any timber cut across the grain to the desired width and 10mm length x 5mm depth would suffice.
I knew it could be done. Now for the smaller cutters.:D


Regards and happy/relieved,

Rob

[Auld Bassoon]

Aha! he says, as he waves his (Dominoe'd) wooden leg!

Well done Rob; was that 19mm stock? The mortices look fearfully close to the edges of the stock. This will probably be ok when glued up, but I guess some care would need to be exercised when dry fitting so as not to break through.

For shallow mortices, I'm gathering a suite of stock spacers so as to be able to mill shallower mortices - I just cut a bit of the ends of some dominoes to suit. This has the advantage that I can make the spacer wide/broad enough to fully support the tool even over narrow stock.

[Flowboy]

Hi Steve,

Thanks. The workpiece is 12mm piners afraidiata. I have, as you can imagine, played quite a bit with the joint. No problems with potential splitting, though this may not be the same in some hardwoods. To move the mortise further into the body of the mitre, you need only drop the cutting height to 15mm and possibly bring the guide another mm out. At these stock widths and without a flexible cut depth you do have to be careful. I anticipate that after gluing, the joint will be extremely strong, probably more so than any other method I know about.
With regard to the spacers. I have thought about this too and tried using dominos, but found securing them and maintaining the accuracy of she with the whip provides difficult.
I am now thinking of strips of 2 or 3mm MDF as the way to build them up. Securing again is the problem, but I feel some of the very small clamps Dick Smith sells may be the answer.
In general, I feel that when setting your own depths, +/- 1mm probably isn't going to matter, so some 3mm and some 4mm laminae of MDF used in conjunction should be fine. I have the Beadlock system and they use plastic layers, however, they use a drill not an oscillating cutter, so MDF cut to the widest cut and largest cutter should be fine.
Hope that all makes sense.

Regards,

Rob

[Flowboy]

Hi everybodies,

I have attached two pics of the domino wearing "protection". These are two pieces of 3mm MDF. They really need to be held in place and this I will do with double sided tape. I anticipate this should work. Apart from dropping down from 12mm cut depth, its hard to see how more than 3mm would be needed under normal circumstances, correct me if I'm wrong.
I think finally I would like these to be hard plastic as its easier to clean and mount the tape on.

Regards,

Rob

[Flowboy]

Hi all,

Further to yesterdays pics of the reducer MDF panels on the Domino, here's a pic of the two reducers I have used (3mm and 6mm depth) and the result of using them with 5x30mm dominos.
The far left is a 20mm deep mortise, then 15mm, then 12mm (using 3mm reducer) and 9mm (using 3+3mm MDF glued together with Hot Stuff Yellow.)

Regards

Rob

[Powertoolman]

Rob,
If you want to limit the depth of plunge smaller than the factory limit, here's another idea for you to play with.

Instead of adding spacers to the front of the Domino, slide a plastic tube over one of the linear rails. This could be something as simple as a piece of thin-walled PVC pipe cut to the various lengths that you need. If the PVC pipe's inside diameter is too small to fit over the rail, slit it down its length and expand it with a little bit of heat. Just make sure the sleeve you make is not something that will scratch the linear rail. That's why I suggest PVC. Also, I would not put anything inside the linear bore as a limit; only on the outside.

Adding pieces of MDF to the front of the joiner scares me a little with the oscillating bit and possible instability.
Rick

[Flowboy]

Hi PTM,
Great idea! Thanks.

I have used the MDF plates for several cuts, including some up to 200mm continuous and they seem stable. One aid is the fact that they are not only adhered to the aluminium plate, but are "locked" onto the the pins as well. But your idea is pretty much what I was looking for.

Regards

Rob