PDA

View Full Version : Shellawax



DarrylF
25th November 2002, 10:07 PM
I seem to be turning out some decent stuff, and I definitely LOVE finishing with Shellawax, but I've got a couple of problems that aren't covered on the site or in the finishing book...

First problem is in applying. I use a clean section of a cotton rag (mostly t-shirt material), form a wad, dip it in the jar of Shellawax cream, and then apply. My problem is that the shellawax seems to dry out as I wipe it on (with the lathe stopped of course). The wax gets kinda lumpy and it becomes hard to spread it out - tough getting an even coat. In the jar it seems OK - kinda sloppy on a hot day etc. Should I be using a previously used section of the rag? Should I dampen the rag with Shellawax liquid first? Any other ideas?

Second problem: I like to turn fairly thin - hate chunky bowls. Depends on the timber of course, but I find that the heat generated in applying EEE and then the Shellawax cream tends to warp the bowl. On one or two types of timber this results in a streaky finish - usually very glossy patches over a more generally satin finish.

Third problem: I have trouble generating enough heat to set the Shellawax properly towards the centre of a large bowl. I wind up setting the speed as high as I'm game and then pressing very hard. Doing this on the back of the bowl while it's held by a dovetailed recess using a Vicmarc chuck is kinda scary - it seems to hold fine, but I feel like the bowl is going to let go and bounce off some part of my anatomy I'd rather not damage. I can't help thinking that this is related to the Shellawax drying (soaking into the rag) too fast.

ubeaut
26th November 2002, 12:35 AM
G'day Darryl - It is ok for it to go lumpy during the initial application, all you are doing is getting a really rough coat onto the surface in preparation for the friction part. If you are working on a bowl over 6 - 8" then mix a little Shellawax Liquid with the Cream (say 50/50) in the lid of the jar and use this. The liquid works as an extender for the cream allowing you to work on bigger bowls with more ease. As a rule: the bigger the bowl or platter the more liquid you add to the cream.

Don't use the liquid on its own on big bowls as it will soak in too quickly, the cream helps it stay on the surface which is initially what you want, otherwise there is nothing to work the magic of the friction on. Pour what is left in the lid back into the cream jar. It won't hurt it, and clean off the lid or you may end up having it stuck on the jar next time you go to use it.

My choice of rag is old flannelette sheeting, although it is reasonably open material it is one of the few that won't leave lines from the weave in the surface of the work because the soft smooth fibres of the material bend to cover the weave pattern. Doorstop prefers to use t-shirt material and another demonstrator swears by McDonalds paper napkins. Personally I reckon that one is just an excuse to go to Mackers on a regular basis.

I prefer to use a clean section of the material for each application. If the polish applied correctly the face of the rag should be hard and glazed to a high shine when you are finished.

The centre is always a problem whether it is with applying polish, sanding or even when cutting or as most do scraping. The only answer I can offer is to work longer on that part of the bowl. I prefer to start in the centre and work very slowly to the outside, then go back quickly over the whole thing a number of times to ensure a nice even coverage.

As for the thin walled bowls use a rag on the outside of the bowl and the inside at the same time when applying the polish. They should mirror the movement of one another. This will stop warping whilst applying the polish and give you a much firmer and more stable surface to work on.

Run the lathe as fast as you can safely go for the size of the work to be polished then apply the friction acordingly. e.g.: A 12" bowl may take 20 seconds to finish at 1400rpm, 40 seconds at 800rpm and and well over a minute at 400rpm

Don't be affraid to give the cream a good stir up from time to time this will make it really soft and sloppy, and will aid with the application.

Polish the back of the bowl as soon as it is finished, before you take it off the chuck to turn the inside. This is much safer and a hell of a lot easier. Use the compression grip on the foot of a bowl rather than the expansion method for turning the inside of the bowl. Again it is much safer and in my oppinion a much neater way of chucking. It also allows for the creation of more even wall thickness over the entire bowl than using the expansion grip. Lastly, you are not left with a big, ugly, gaping hole in the bottom of the bowl when you have finished.

Finally - If you haven't already done so, have a look here http://www.ubeaut.com.au/swinfo.htm

I hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil

sunshine
27th November 2002, 05:13 AM
Thanks, Neil!!

I have wanted this information for a long
time and you have thereby answered all of
my "polish" questions. http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif


....and thanks Darryl, for asking....

Phyllis

DarrylF
27th November 2002, 10:23 PM
Ditto - thanks Neil http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif 2 more days and it's the weekend and I can try it out http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif