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Bob Willson
5th October 2006, 03:45 PM
It is BL00DY ridiculous that I cannot find one of these (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32960&cat=1,43072,45939) anywhere in Brisbane or even Australia come to that.
I went into CBC bearings and they told me that "Oh yes, we sell those." What they actually sold was the bearing blocks at about $50 each. I would then have to make a shaft for it (that will still need threading) and also buy a pulley to fit to it .. so an all up cost of about $250. Yeah right, I'll have a dozen please. NOT!! :mad:
I also tried many shops hereabouts, including Hare and Forbes and other tool places. No joy.
Does any forun member have any knowledge of where in Australia I might buy one of these power transmission shafts for a reasonable price?

PS I know that Carbatec sell one of these (p 56 current catalogue) but that isn't the design I am looking for.

David L
5th October 2006, 04:06 PM
If only I had known. I sold one similar a couple of month back for $15.
Not mutch help now.

David

Bob Willson
5th October 2006, 05:00 PM
Grr snarl, much gnashing of teeth.

Where did you buy it from?

Skew ChiDAMN!!
5th October 2006, 05:15 PM
I gather Lee Valley won't sell overseas?

Bob Willson
5th October 2006, 05:19 PM
They will, but see this. (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=38336) :(

Stuart
5th October 2006, 05:37 PM
'tis amazing. I just spoke with Hare & Forbes - they don't carry it, and thought it would be more of a one-off job :eek: I have a couple sitting in my shed as well, as I'm sure many do.

It is, after all, just a threaded shaft with a couple of bearings in housings slipped on and kept in position with collars, but why you can't buy one - bloody strange!!

Will keep lookin' around - see what I can find!

silentC
5th October 2006, 05:42 PM
I'm still kicking myself because I saw one at the tip attached to a hardwood plank but was in a hurry and left it behind. Went back the next day and it was gone.

Bob Willson
5th October 2006, 06:36 PM
Thanks Stuart. Ummm .... I don't 'spose you wanna sell one of your old ones do you?

Auld Bassoon
5th October 2006, 06:51 PM
Hi Bob,

Why not get a length of aluminium or steel bar, say 18 or 19mm dia from your local supplier, and a couple of bearing blocks. You can use heavy duty ones, or find a kart spares supplier and buy a pair of kart rear axle bearings (see here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=33157&highlight=850mm+drum) post #1) and make some wooded support cradles. Or you could do as I did for my drum sander, and buy a kart axle which is already keyed.

If all else fails, swallow the $30 or so bucks for shipping and get the LV jobbie :D

Bob Willson
5th October 2006, 07:24 PM
Hi Bob,

Why not get a length of aluminium or steel bar, say 18 or 19mm dia from your local supplier, and a couple of bearing blocks. You can use heavy duty ones, or find a kart spares supplier and buy a pair of kart rear axle bearings (see here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=33157&highlight=850mm+drum) post #1) and make some wooded support cradles. Or you could do as I did for my drum sander, and buy a kart axle which is already keyed.

If all else fails, swallow the $30 or so bucks for shipping and get the LV jobbie :D

That is STILL $140 odd dollars for two bearings and a shaft. A little bit too expensive for what you are getting methinks. I was expecting to pay about $40 - $50 TOPS!!

JDarvall
5th October 2006, 07:35 PM
I've got bits and pieces of shafts and blocks that your welcome to have but I doubt it'll be what your after......what shaft diameter your going for ?

Your definetly going for the sealed bearing ones eh ? .....those brass bush ones are a waste of time. The grit from wheel dressing gets in them and makes the shaft run a little loose which transmits to the stone and your blade.

You know there is an alternative. Go to a tender centre or someplace where you can buy second hand grinder whose motors burn't out or whatever.....their double mandrel. You put your pulley on one of the mandrels and use the other to hold your wheel.

To get two wheels going you can get an extention bar going that sits on one of the threads simultaneously binding the pulley on....stick the second grinding wheel on the extention.

(OR...forget it, and save space and time and money by buying a big grinder from supercheap for $50....bear the bright yellow colours.....and learn to grind near 3000rpm )...oppps, won't get a response now.:p

dai sensei
5th October 2006, 07:45 PM
What about these here (http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=180_460_3800)

Toolin Around
5th October 2006, 08:10 PM
You won't have much luck finding the mandrel anywhere in Aus. They're not that easy to find anywhere actually (tried looking before). I don't really need another one but I'm going to splurge and buy one anyways from Lee Valley and put it away just incase they decide not to carry them anymore.

Chris Parks
5th October 2006, 10:03 PM
Hi Bob,

Why not get a length of aluminium or steel bar, say 18 or 19mm dia from your local supplier, and a couple of bearing blocks. You can use heavy duty ones, or find a kart spares supplier and buy a pair of kart rear axle bearings (see here (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=33157&highlight=850mm+drum) post #1) and make some wooded support cradles. Or you could do as I did for my drum sander, and buy a kart axle which is already keyed.

If all else fails, swallow the $30 or so bucks for shipping and get the LV jobbie :D

The smallest axle karts run is 25mm.

journeyman Mick
6th October 2006, 12:57 AM
Bob,
I've got a shaft with pulley that ran a saw blade if you're interested. It's only single sided though, and it's 16mm from memory. Will try to dig it up next week, along with other stuff I want to sell off (trying to make some room).

Mick

Harry72
6th October 2006, 01:52 AM
Visit some metal scrap recyclers, bound to find something to fit the bill on the cheap.

Bob Willson
6th October 2006, 04:56 AM
Bob,
I've got a shaft with pulley that ran a saw blade if you're interested. It's only single sided though, and it's 16mm from memory. Will try to dig it up next week, along with other stuff I want to sell off (trying to make some room).

Mick

Thanks Mick.
It may even be able to be adapted to double ended.

Bob Willson
6th October 2006, 05:05 AM
I've got bits and pieces of shafts and blocks that your welcome to have but I doubt it'll be what your after......what shaft diameter your going for ?

16mm or 5/8"




Your definetly going for the sealed bearing ones eh ? .....those brass bush ones are a waste of time. The grit from wheel dressing gets in them and makes the shaft run a little loose which transmits to the stone and your blade.


Yup.


buy second hand grinder whose motors burn't out or whatever.....their double mandrel. You put your pulley on one of the mandrels and use the other to hold your wheel.

To get two wheels going you can get an extention bar going that sits on one of the threads simultaneously binding the pulley on....stick the second grinding wheel on the extention.

Too big and heavy. I want to save space.


(OR...forget it, and save space and time and money by buying a big grinder from supercheap for $50....bear the bright yellow colours.....and learn to grind near 3000rpm )...oppps, won't get a response now.:p

Got a couple of them. I want a slow grinder. Just like wot Toolin's got.
Gregory machinery have a special on their Jet 6" grinders right now. (http://www.gregmach.com.au/new_machinery/Grinders%20-%20Sharpening/jbg_6a.htm)

Hickory
6th October 2006, 08:50 AM
In as much as you want to slow buff, why not make your own Pillow Blocks from some hard tightgrained wood like Osage Orange or Apple (The way the olde folks did) Or even some of that oily Aussie wood you guys got. Use a long bolt for the shaft a couple of washers, jam nuts and a pulley and you are in business.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/hickoryknee/pillowblock.jpg

Bob Willson
6th October 2006, 11:49 AM
What about these here (http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=180_460_3800)

See last sentence of original message.

Bob Willson
6th October 2006, 11:52 AM
In as much as you want to slow buff, why not make your own Pillow Blocks from some hard tightgrained wood like Osage Orange or Apple (The way the olde folks did) Or even some of that oily Aussie wood you guys got. Use a long bolt for the shaft a couple of washers, jam nuts and a pulley and you are in business.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/hickoryknee/pillowblock.jpg

That could work. Maybe. Depends. I'd still prefer bought ones but if all else fails.

Andy Mac
6th October 2006, 12:36 PM
Hickory could be on the right track, and to further improve things you could drill an oiler hole into it. I've made similar using spotted gum, and ran windmill rotors on them for years. Even some commercial 'mills use wooden blocks: by memory a company down Coffs Harbour way use red gum.

Good luck with it Bob!

journeyman Mick
10th October 2006, 01:04 AM
Bob,
dug up that shaft today, it's 1" diameter, with a double pulley on the drive end, will try to post pics soon.

Mick

Bob Willson
10th October 2006, 01:58 AM
Thanks Mick
Just hanging on waiting to see what it looks like now. :)

"Makin Sawdust"
10th October 2006, 10:25 AM
I have been following this discussion for a while & would suggest that you have a look at an old large evaporative air cooler (lots around with rusted frames etc.). The centrifugal blower fan is usually mounted on a suitable shaft with pillow block bearings and is belt driven by the 1/2 or 3/4HP motor. You would need to cut threads on ends of shaft and make up flanges but this should not be too hard. Cheers, Les.

journeyman Mick
10th October 2006, 11:47 PM
Bob,
sorry, might be another day or two. Just measured it today, it's a bit of a monster about 450 long. I don't think it would be very easy to mount a wheel on both ends as the pulleys are keyed onto the end of the shaft.

Mick

Bob Willson
11th October 2006, 12:39 AM
I would suggest that you have a look at an old large evaporative air coolerLes.

Good thought Les, It could work, I will keep it in mind.

Stu in Tokyo
11th October 2006, 06:46 AM
Yeah, like Lee Valley stuff, but the shipping to Japan is killer too. My kids are going to Grampa & Grama's house for Christmas, and they always have a big box of stuff to bring home for me :D

The hardwood blocks has real merit, I once saw an old saw mill the bearings on the MONSTER blade were Lignum Vitae, and that mill was OLD.

I know a few old-timers from the Navy, and they tell me that even after WWII a lot of the navy's ships had Lignum Vitae bearings for the prop shafts.

I think I read once that some early hydro electric dam generator turbine shafts were made from it, so surely, it should handle your buffing shaft...........?

Good luck!

forge
12th October 2006, 09:05 AM
It is BL00DY ridiculous that I cannot find one of these (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32960&cat=1,43072,45939) anywhere in Brisbane or even Australia come to that.
I went into CBC bearings and they told me that "Oh yes, we sell those." What they actually sold was the bearing blocks at about $50 each. I would then h

PS I know that Carbatec sell one of these (p 56 current catalogue) but that isn't the design I am looking for.

Hi ,Bob .If its slow speed/wet sharpening you'r looking for why not consider the gmc wet/dry grinder .Brought one of these a while ago -about 99 at bunnie's.Will try to post piccies.
adopted it to my requirement- hey presto-slow speed grinder.Some of the lapidarys i have seen use stndard grinders with water drip(not slow speed)
One could also use standard bearings on shafts and capture the bearings in the wooden block.Your next prob is the threading of the shafts.Regards,Bela

soundman
12th October 2006, 10:33 PM
hardwood bearings are certainly workable ( particularly aussie hardwood ).
1.Windmills still use hardwood beraings,(big bro fixes w'mills) some of them have been spinning on the same bearings for over 50 years.
2. an old bloke I know had a grinder he made when things were expensive and a workin' man was poor.... washing machine motor and hardwood bearings... still running fine after 30 odd years.

you do need to make arrangements to oil the bearing.... the wood will hold quite a bit.....thats usualy a larger cup feeding a small feeder hole to the axle....( a couple of holes mate).

You dont need to split the bearing just bore an accurate hole and slip the shaft in.

Tapping the shaft isn't a problem...... call me if necessary bob.
UNLESS you want the "other end" to have a left hand thread.... then it gets expensive.

Apart from that.... try a lapidary supplier, like gemworld they have little shaft arrangements like that........ beware that lapidary supplies tend to be a bit overpriced.


cheers

Bob Willson
25th October 2006, 05:15 PM
I am still moving along on this project, just very slowly.

I have managed to buy on eBay a 5/8" UNF L/H die so I can now thread the "other " end of the shaft. Now I will need to find a supplier of L/H nuts.
Benny Laird is a bit of a nutter, maybe he can source them for me. :D

Just George
25th October 2006, 05:37 PM
What did you "search" for on ebay?

woodcutta
25th October 2006, 08:46 PM
Bob

Why not buy a 150mm grinder and cut the rotor off the shaft.
Bearings, shaft, LH and RH threaded shaft, mounting bracket - the lot.

woodcutta

mcchaddy
25th October 2006, 10:58 PM
Hi Bob,

I'm pretty sure there is one of these in our local swap shop. I was there the otherday and I'm sure I saw something very similar to this. It may have been a bit larger than the one from LV. PM me and I will let you know where the shop is if your interested.

Bob Willson
26th October 2006, 04:50 AM
What did you "search" for on ebay?

What, for the mandrel /work head /pulley shaft /and lots of others that I can't remember right now? Or for the L/H thread cutter?