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OGYT
20th October 2006, 06:58 AM
Just finished this yesterday. It's a result of getting bounced around by a little piece of Red Elm... :eek:
Pic 1 Framework is from 1" square tubing. Inside is big enough for a 3/4" boring bar. All thread is 1/2". Torque Resistor is 60cmX12cm. Had to pay for the welding due to a built in quiver in my hands. Haven't got the set screws put in yet, in this shot.;) The retainer is 50cm long, and fastened by clamping under both ways.
Pic 2 Don Pencil curved tool bar mounted in it. Don't know if I want to try to mount a laser light on it or not... that seems like cheating... but then, having this rig to hold your cutters may be cheating to some.:confused:
Pic 3 The 3/8" x 16 tpi set screws. (since I took the pic, I PC7'd some 3/8 nuts to the top, so I'd have more threads.)
The hollowform is a piece of spalted birch... not made using this new tool... just putting a finish on it when I thought to go pick up the Torque Resistor from the welder... so I had to finish the tool.:D
Picked up the 1" square tubing from the metal pile at the landfill... one of the benefits of living in a small town.:D

Skew ChiDAMN!!
20th October 2006, 08:05 AM
Just finished this yesterday. It's a result of getting bounced around by a little piece of Red Elm... :eek:

Vely Intelesting!


Pic 1 Framework is from 1" square tubing. Inside is big enough for a 3/4" boring bar. All thread is 1/2". Torque Resistor is 60cmX12cm

Torque Resistor? By that I assume you mean the piece the boring bar is mounted to?


Pic 2 Don Pencil curved tool bar mounted in it. Don't know if I want to try to mount a laser light on it or not... that seems like cheating... but then, having this rig to hold your cutters may be cheating to some.:confused:

What prevents the boring bar from twisting in the tubing under load? A flat on the shaft? If so, then can you adjust the cutting angle? I can understand the reasoning behind two set-screws but why three? :confused: Sorry for all the questions, but, well... curiosity and all that. :o

I can't say that I think adding a laser would be cheating... well, no more than using such a device would be in the first place, amyway. ;) When deep hollowing I tend to rely on sound and feel to tell me when I'm achieving a constant wall thickness. And calipers, but they're more of a check than a working gauge, if you know what I mean? Thi rig would take most of the "feel" out of the equation and I doubt I could work by sound alone... the laser seems like a good idea.

hughie
20th October 2006, 08:32 AM
:D
Picked up the 1" square tubing from the metal pile at the landfill... one of the benefits of living in a small town.:D
[/quote]

Al,

Every spot has its advantages huh? :D

If nothing else its solid...jeez built like a tank, well done on the engineering. It kinda matches the Oneway.

I take its more of a rough out- bulk removal set up, rather than the fine finish.If for finishing, then the laser would be ideal to make up for the loss of feel. Make use of technology I say, if we did not we would still be driving horses around and using peddle lathes.

As Skew mentioned it might have a tendancy to turn under heavy loads. Rather than have flats cut into the shaft you could try a couple more screws at right angles to current three this should do it....but only if its needed.

Well made bit of gear.

TTIT
20th October 2006, 09:02 AM
You forgot the important bit Al! - how well does it work! I've been thinkin' and thinkin' and then some more thinkin' about it, even priced up the laser - but until I talk to someone that uses one or try it myself, I couldn't decide if it was worth the effort. - - - So was it worth the effort Al?:confused:
Looks as good as any of the dozens I've saved pictures of from the net - you've done well mate! - even better if it works ;):D

OGYT
20th October 2006, 10:08 AM
Torque Resistor? By that I assume you mean the piece the boring bar is mounted to?

What prevents the boring bar from twisting in the tubing under load? A flat on the shaft? If so, then can you adjust the cutting angle? I can understand the reasoning behind two set-screws but why three? :confused: Sorry for all the questions, but, well... curiosity and all that. :o

I can't say that I think adding a laser would be cheating... well, no more than using such a device would be in the first place, amyway. ;) Thi rig would take most of the "feel" out of the equation and I doubt I could work by sound alone... the laser seems like a good idea.

Torque Resistor... yep... holdin' the boring bar. Resists the torque of the offset toolbar end.
To keep it from rotating in the tube, I mark the shaft with the setscrew, then grind a small indent there. Hope this works. :eek: I also pounded a piece of thin walled copper pipe into the tubing, to make it fit a little tighter.:eek: :cool: Don't know if I can adjust the angle of the cutter. Might have to grind the angle into it. Might also be able to put a little indent in a different spot.
Three set screws? When I use a smaller shaft, the adapter has a hole in it. One screw holds the shaft, another holds the adapter. ;) The loner out on the end is for the end of the Don Pencil tool... it's flat on both sides at the end. If I need to go really deep, I'll just pull the tool out farther, and use the two close-set screws. OB OBrien says if you put the set screws into the corner of the square tube, it will jam the round toolbar into the corner of the tube, keeping it perfectly straight and tight. Shoulda thought of that.:(

I take its more of a rough out- bulk removal set up, rather than the fine finish.
Yer right there, Hughie. To finish the inside, I've gotta do that so I can feel what's happenin'.

So was it worth the effort Al?:confused:
Well.... I haven't really got it into any hard diggin' yet, but I went out today and used it to thin the inside of the HF in the pic. It worked well for that... but I'll post something later on it's abilities.:D

Appreciate the kudos from you blokes. :D