MJ2325B manual

[Bob38S]

G'day all,
I'm chasing a version of the manual for the MJ2325B cabinet saw which is readable, in English [mine is in Chinglish], with indicators/ pictures/ instructions as to how to do any adjustments to fine tune the beast - particularly adjusting the blade. My manual [perhaps the name of some Mexican bloke] tells me nix, nothing, zip, nada - or did I miss out on the osmotic process by which we are supposed to absorb these things???

I have mainly, so far, used mine on small bits and pieces but I am finding that I need to adjust the blade parallel to the slots - I thought I had struck a good one but when ripping a length I'm finding that the width is 1.2mm out in a length. Have tried adjusting the fence and mitre guide but this causes problems when I swap sides of the table.

Any help, ideas, suggestions would be much appreciated.
Regards,
Bob

[peak200_0]

I had the same problem when I first used the saw. The blade & Fence were not parallel to the Mitre slots and yes your right the Manual sucks you get what you pay . Adjusting the blade alignment was easy & only took an hour or so to set the Blade to less than 0.1mm of parallel. Accuracy of cuts has been excellent ever since.

Adjusting the Blade alignment
Mark a Tooth on the blade & compare the distance between this tooth & the Mitre slot at the leading & trailing edges of the blade. I used the mitre guide & dial gauge but a steel rule clamped to the mitre guide would work just as well.
Adjust the Blade by loosening the forward or aft trunnion block bolts a flat or so (Item D66 in the Manual). Use a hammer & drift to tap the Trunnion block left or right to align the blade so that the side of the marked saw blade tooth just brushes against the steel rule at the Leading & trailing edges of the blade. Nip up recheck and your done.

Adjusting the Fence
Secure the front fence rail to the main table first before fitting the table extensions. This will prevent misalignment of the front face of the table extensions & prevent distortion of the fence rail when securing bolts are tightened on the rail. I ended up with some small gaps between the rail & front face of the table extensions so I packed them with shim stock at the rail mount bolts before tightening.
Now its just a matter of paralleling the fence to the mitre slot buy loosening the securing bolts at the fence plate & adjusting. I did this by Clamping the sliding housing to the front rail with a G clamp & checking for parallel using the mitre guide & steel rule. Tighten it all up & your done.

The fence is of poor design as it clamps from the rear so if the front sliding part of the fence is not seated properly on the front rail when applying the lock then the fence could be locked misaligned.
I now use one hand to squeeze the front of the fence onto the rail & the other to lock the fence with accurate results every time.

I have done a few home improvements to this saw
I have fitted a rearward sloping bulkhead in the lower cabinet made from 4mm ply. This channels any leftover dust to the rear of the cabinet. I reversed the dust port so that the secondary port faces down inside the cabinet a short hose leading to the bottom corner of the cabinet ensures that leftovers are sucked out. Very little dust leaks from this machine now.
I have also machined the 25.4 mm step off the drive pulley which is in fact the arbor, as the arbor shaft is 5/8 dia this allows more flexibility with blade bores.

Arbor end float
Any play in the arbor bearings is adjusted out by tightening the small Allen head bolt on the right of the arbor shaft This bolt pre loads the inside races of the two arbor bearings to remove any end float.
Hope this helps anyone not happy with their MJ2325B if set up correctly it works great & its cheap.

:2tsup:

[Bob38S]

Many thanks Peak for your response - my apologies for the late reply but I have been away in NZ for 3 weeks and only just back.
Any chance of some pix of your modifications?
I changed the concertina hose from the catcher to the back with flex dusty hose but there is still some dust which gets out but not nearly as much as before.
Regards,
Bob

[peak200_0]

Gday Bob
Some Pics of the Bulkhead in the lower cabinet.
Its fitted in 2 halves & screwed together down the center into a batten underneath to stop sagging over time. Edges are sealed with PVC tape to prevent dust escaping.
I have also machined the step off the Arbour (Pulley), that allows fitting blades with 5/8 bores .
Rgds Al

[Bob38S]

G'day Al,

Thanks for the pix - all is now clear and this is certainly a modification worth doing.

As stated I have changed the internal concertina hose [pix below] as it was a dust trap rather than a chute. I have also replaced the hose to the blade guard with an old vacuum cleaner hose which allows the hose to cross the table from the side and not catch small sheet stock as the old one did. At a later stage I will be looking at replacing the top hose with a better blade guard/dust collector.

Regards and thanks,
Bob

[Arry]

Hopefully someone who uses this saw is still around the traps.

Out of the box I have tested the blade and it is 100% alligned to the mitre slots, amazing I know. :-)

The fence however is another story. Just cannot seem to get it to be parallel to the mitre slot.

I may do what peak200_0 has suggested and try clamping it first and tightening, it may make it easier for me.

Anyone else have any ideas?