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robatman
5th November 2006, 11:30 PM
Inspired by Holzman's brilliant effort,
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=39658
thought I'd give it a go. I have only been turning a little while and have managed to turn a total of 3 bowls, all from green Cypress. I used to think Cypress made for bad floorboards, but in bowls and turnings i love it, beautifull smell and the dark hardwood, and numerous knots all give it it some character.

I know this is a little thick, but as it is very green thought i'd play it safe. (180mm dia, 160mm high)

Also, i dont get a great finish off the tool- especially when doing end grain bowls, need to keep practicing, but untill then what is the best way to sand green wood. I just keep clogging up the paper.

Interested in your thoughts,
Robert

33998

TTIT
6th November 2006, 12:58 AM
Looks good Robert (for now :o ) In my limited experience, I've found Cypresses in general to be very resinous which makes them difficult to sand, except maybe native White cypress. Sorry to say it, but if it is white cypress, you're more than likely gonna lose it as it cracks badly in round form :( . Lovely timber but I've had very lttle success turning it - but a shoe rack I made from it in board form 18 years ago is still fine! :)

OGYT
6th November 2006, 09:03 AM
I think ya done good, Robert. TTIT has more experience with cypress than I do.... thinkin' about it cracking leaves me with this thought. If you put it in a soap solution (50/50 clear dish washing soap/water) for a week or two, then wrap it in brown paper sack for a few weeks, changin' the sack every 3 or 4 days, it might dry without cracking. The soap will dry in the wood pores, maybe keepin' them from collapsing. Then you can sand and finish as you want.
A second guess is soaking in Danish Oil for a day or two. Then set aside to dry, then sand and re-oil and buff.
Whatever you do to it, you can, later, jam-chuck it to sand it on the lathe.
Just suggestions... not like I've done it before... but I just wouldn't let it set and dry... it probably will crack, then.

hughie
6th November 2006, 11:19 AM
Interested in your thoughts,




Robert,

Heres my two cents worth.

Try roughing it out and then soaking in meths [DNA] for 24-48 hours or so. Remove and dry, finishing turning. As to how thick to leave it depends on the timber its self. If it Camphor Laurel, very thin is ok...see Hickory's posts, maybe drop him aline.

Another method is wet seasoning, again rough turn to around 10% of the dia for wall thickness. Submerge it in water for several days, duration will vary depending on size etc.You cant over soak so don't worry about that. Then remove and dry, again actually drying time is up for grabs, you'll figure it out OK

The meths method I use and it works fine on CL. The wet method I am about to try. There maybe others who have or are using this method on the forum. I got this method from an article in the Aust Woodworker sept/oct 05 by Carol Rix and John Hanrahan. John is from Bribie Island and uses wet seasoning as his primary method.