noodle_snacks 21st November 2006, 02:47 PM So what is the best way to cut tenons accurately? Router table or a Table Saw Tenon Jig?
craigb 21st November 2006, 03:17 PM Probably depends on how many you need to do. You can cut them quite acurately on a TS without a jig.
However, if you had a lot to cut then a jig would be the quickest.
I've never cut them on a router table so I don't know about that.
You can also cut them acurately with a BS.
noodle_snacks 21st November 2006, 03:21 PM Say if you wanted to cut 8 1/2in tennons in the short term, to build a coffee table, how would you do it?
BrettC 21st November 2006, 03:35 PM BS.........handsdown, easiest and quickest and also accurate enough as said above if you have a a BS with a good enough fence or you use a jig.
For the mortise use a router set -up. Rout mortise first then fine tune tenon fit on the BS.
Cheers.
craigb 21st November 2006, 03:38 PM Well I'd probably use my TS and my mitre gauge (Incra).
I'd clamp an ofsset block on the fence then set the fence so that the distance from the far side of the blade to the offset block was the length of my tenon.
Then I'd set the blade at the correct height to give me my tenon thickness and "nibble" away the waste on the cheeks using a series of passes.
Use a piece of scrap to experiment with getting the blade height just right.
I cut tenons like this all the time. It's a reasonably quick method.
Other people probably have their own favorite methods.
I always rout the mortices first though.
NewLou 21st November 2006, 04:09 PM Gidday:)
I'm another in the BAndsaw Camp on this one given a choice n throwin in the laziness factor the good old BAndsand delivers the goods every time. Is easier n safest way to do tenons bar a dedicated piece of machinery.
A well tuned bandsaw i'll cut tenons accurately. Set up a microadjustable fance a la MArk Duginski n you can shave tenons in increments of 4000ths to fit a mortise.
...........................Bandsaws the go
Regards Lou:D:D:D
keith53 21st November 2006, 04:44 PM If I had to do something like that I'd probably give the dado set a go. Mind you, not having used it since the Brisbane WWW purchase, I'd muck around with it a bit. Probably using the sliding table on the saw as well.
Andy Mac 21st November 2006, 04:51 PM If I had to set up for a small run of them, I'd cut the shoulders on the table saw or preferrably the radial arm saw (I like to see what's happening:rolleyes: ), so they are nice and square, then cut the cheeks on the bandsaw. Without a decent mitre slide on the bandsaw I avoid trying accurate cross cutting, but ripping along the fence is OK for tenons.
Cheers,
noodle_snacks 21st November 2006, 07:28 PM seems like the bandsaw is the way to go, if only i had one :rolleyes:
Tex B 21st November 2006, 07:51 PM Or use loose tenon joinery. Cut the rails to length, cut mortises on both surfaces, whip up a few loose tenons to fit, and presto :) perfect cheeks with no fiddling around to get the tenons just so.
That's how I'd do it anyway.
Tex
craigb 21st November 2006, 08:34 PM That's how I'd do it anyway.
Tex
Using the patented Bodginator (tm) no doubt. :p :D
Auld Bassoon 21st November 2006, 08:36 PM Some scribed lines and a decent hand-held back-saw, if it's just a few? I also agree with mortices first.
Bluegum 21st November 2006, 09:15 PM I use my TS and router, but for something different during a rare rainy day iIdecided to cut a few by hand just for the practice. After using power tools for ages it was good to put into practice what I learned in school so many years ago.
noodle_snacks 21st November 2006, 10:36 PM If i didn't really have any decent hand saws (a couple of crappy ones :D), then would one of those japanese pull saws be the bet if i wanted to try cutting things by hand?
Shannon Nash 21st November 2006, 10:57 PM Gudday.
My two bobs worth.
I use a horizontal router table (HRT). It is the design from FWW about 6 years ago (sorry i can't tell you the issue it was in).
I also made a sliding table to work on the HRT on two axis to use it as a morticer. Will post some photos if people are interetsed.
I also use TS and BS and a shoulder plane to clean up either of these. The router table tenons generally don't need any exra work if the stock is dimensioned correctly.
Always mortice first and tenon second!
Cheers
SN
noodle_snacks 22nd November 2006, 12:13 AM is http://www.woodcentral.com/shots/shot390.shtml the type of design you were refering to?
Harry72 22nd November 2006, 01:36 AM Me its the dado blade on the TS with a tennon jig... super fast and be within .1mm
Tex B 22nd November 2006, 10:20 AM is http://www.woodcentral.com/shots/shot390.shtml the type of design you were refering to?
That would be great for cutting matching mortises for the floating tenons;)
Almost as good as Bodgy's.
Tex
Driver 22nd November 2006, 10:27 AM If i didn't really have any decent hand saws (a couple of crappy ones :D), then would one of those japanese pull saws be the bet if i wanted to try cutting things by hand?
In a word, yes. The Japanese saws are fine. They give an accurate, fast cut with a narrow kerf. The only qualification: their toughened steel blades don't last a long time when cutting Aussie hardwoods. You'll find you get a lot of broken teeth. On the other hand, the replacement blades aren't overly expensive. (Re-sharpening them is not an option).
I've got a couple of Japanese saws and a growing collection of Western-style backsaws.
Always cut my tenons by hand, incidentally. :cool:
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