Do I need a Bandsaw ???

[kenmil]

I just about have my shop set up the way I want it, and space is now at a premium, (especially if I buy a jointer sometime in the future), but I find that I keep asking myself - Do I need a Bandsaw?

I don't do any turning and will not be in the future as I have absolutely no interest in it, so is a bandsaw really necessary ?
I am interested to hear from all those devotees who own and love them.:D

[fxst]

simple straight forward answer?
YES

[Dean]

If you don't have one, you will probably find a different way to do things the bandsaw may be handy for.... If you have one, then you will probably use it :)

[Neil]

YES Once you get one you will wonder how you ever did without it. Using a jig saw doesn't compare. You can use it for freehand curves etc. for docking small lengths, for mitres, compound mitres, ripping, resawing for veneers, box making, dovetailing and a whole lot more.

Like most machines it does have its limitations but there are far outweighed by the benefits. I wouldn't be without mine (even though about all it does nowadays is to cut cardboard for box inserts).

Cheers - Neil.:)

[Iain]

And butchers have developed their own technique of removing thumbs with them!
Would never be without mine, use it for almost everything including cutting old fence palings for kindling, fair dinkum.

[John Saxton]

Ditto to all the above Ken,in fact I have a small Ryobi which caters any small /light material and tasks such as boxes etc and I use the bigger Jet for resawing,and dimensioning where required.
I wouldn't do without either of them now and they are'nt an expensive tool to maintain in the workshop/shed.
In fact if you ever read any of the books around on Bandsaws you'll be amazed at the versatility of this in your shop.
Cheers:)

[kenmil]

Ok, I am almost convinced. Now what do I look out for - what are the main do's and don'ts ?

[Wayne Davy]

Ken,

My two cents. Buy One! What to look for (in no particular order):

Cast Iron Table - Bigger the better
3/4hp Induction motor at least - 1hp is better
Easy to reach and use Tension Knob. Cheap ones have the knob at the back not at the top - result is skinned knuckles while tensioning the blade.
Bearing guides are very, very nice but block guides will do as you can upgrade to bearings later ($50 - $85 for a set)
Check that the wheels are in alignment (use a straight edge against both wheels with the covers removed)
4" Dust Extraction port - not very common unfortunately


I checked around a fair bit and ended up buying a Hare & Forbes Euro Style 14" (really 13") at their annual sale for $520!!! This is nearly identical to the one Timbecon and Carbatec sell for $780 (I think theirs are actually 14"). These ones meet the above. The only down side is the Euro style ones will not take a Riser kit (which increases the depth of cut). This did not worry me as I have been told and read that riser kits are not that great and put a strain on the motor if you cut to their max.

Hope this rambling helps.

[kenmil]

Thanks Wayne.

[gold leader]

I too purchased a Hare and Forbes 14" bandsaw. My experience is quite limited, but the advice I can give is: Get advice and study anything you can to ensure you set the saw up correctly. The instructions for my saw unfortunately did not necessarily correspond to the parts within the box, so when I turned it on the first time, it vibrated so badly it was unusable. After some advice from H&F staff this problem was corrected, but its scary when you fork out $500 plus for a tool that you cant seem to use.
I have to agree with the roller bearing guide upgrade, although once again, check your saw. I found that the upper guides accepted a square bearing, while the lower guides were round. Its a small thing, but needs to be looked for.

[derekcohen]

Ken

I recently went through a similar route. Lokk at http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3744&highlight=derek

This may help.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Wayne Davy]

Mine is the Euro Style one which includes Bearings, Rip fence, Mitre Gauge and a huge cast iron table. It is also 2 speed although I have not used the slow speed (maybe when I saw some perspex or other plastics). I did look at the cheaper 'Traditional Delta' style and thought they (H&F, Carbatec, Timbecon, etc.) and thought they were not well made. I have been very happy with mine from day one.

BTW I have found out these units are a direct rip of the Electra Beckum units which go for over $1K!! I downloaded the EB manual and it was identical - even down to a stupid plate covering most of the 4" dust port on the inside of the lower casing. This is apparently a safety feature so you don't stick your fingers in the port from the outside (duh) and get them caught in the wheel. Result - safe but no dust collection. Fix - asked the H&F guys and they said they had never noticed it before and suggested I cut it out - done. Dust collection now work quite well. Note: The 'Delta' ones usually (if at all) only have 2.5" dust ports which would not work worth a bugger.

[zathras]

Re skinned knuckles adjusting tension.

I made a longer adjusting shaft simply by using a length of 3/8" threadall rod. The knob now sits at the top of the machine and is easy to adjust. Cost about $5, cheap effective mod.

Cheers Ray

[soundman]

The question isn't do I need one.



Do I want one?
Do I have space for one?


then you can choose to need one


I think I want one I'm figuring out how to fit one in!!!

[Wayne Davy]

Soundman,

May I suggest 'mobile stands'. Just move things around as you need to. You can always fit in a new toy - it just takes some creative thinking (bash head against wall works for me)