Ripping 200x50 Planks

[Asquared]

I want to rip some 200x50 (8x2) pine planks into 200x25 planks. They are about 2000 long. I have a 14" band saw but I've never attempted something like this before. Can anyone advise what sort of blade I should use - presumably as wide as possible but what about no. of teeth? And are there any other tips like using guides? Is likely to be a particularly dangerous undertaking or should it be fairly straight forward?

Appreciate any help.:confused:

[Wood Borer]

Andrew,

I only have a few years experience on my bandsaw in my shed at home. I will give my 2 bob’s worth and I am sure others with more experience can follow up. My bandsaw is a 14” Taiwanese model.

I use my saw for heaps of things ranging between cheating with dovetail joints on the rougher work to ripping 6 inch logs of extremely hard timber. I am talking of Waddy Wood felled 100 years ago and still in log form.

I found that the fence on my bandsaw wasn’t worth using because when the blade went off line away from the fence, the saw objected to having hernias (the saw started smoking, screaming and swearing) . I now don’t use the fence and cut by sight along a line drawn on whatever I am cutting. The line can be difficult to get straight and visible on a log with bark, dimples and bumps but there are ways. There was an article on log ripping in a recent Australian Woodworker – within the last 12 months.

If you have sawn planks to cut then you will have no problems apart from wishing you had done it earlier.

Blades – I did all the reading bit when I was new to it and purchased the 5/8 blades etc but now I use whatever blade is currently in the saw (generally a 3/8 blade). Doing it by sight can be quite accurate, with a little bit of practice you should be able to cut veneers 2 mm thick or less on lengths 2 or more metres long. I should probably use the correct blades but I am happy with the results I get so I don’t bother.

Dangerous? Not at all if you use push sticks and a bit of common sense. I have never broken a blade (touch wood) but have worn out about 10 to 15 blades. If a blade did break it isn’t going to do much damage as it will stop fairly quickly once the tension is lost on your wheels.

You will need to keep an eye on the timber closing up as you rip because it will grip your blade and make your saw complain or stall. Make some little wooden wedges before you start so you can keep the cut open an able assistant can put the wedges in if this happens.

I normally don’t use a power plane but here is where I make an exception. On your planks make sure your edges are reasonably straight, use a marking gauge to mark the first cut from each edge. Cut your two outer pieces. Use your power plane to straighten the sawn edges and then use your marking gauge to cut again. In your case there are only three cuts to make. The reason for planing the edges is so the cut timber can only ever be wavy on one edge. If you have a really wide log or board, the last piece cut would make Bass Strait sea sick!

The more experienced bandsawyers(is that a word?) should be to offer you heaps more.



- Wood Borer

[Asquared]

Thanks Wood Borer, I appreciate your thoughts.

I still haven't given it a go because I've been too busy earning a living!! I did get some advice from a guy at Timbercon who suggested that I run the boards over my table saw on both sides first. This gets around half the cut done and reduces the amont of material the band saw has to remove. Also provides a very clear line to follow and probably reduces (but won't eliminate) that tendency for the blade to get jammed.

AA

[Iain]

I would be wary of ripping a 2000 x 50 plank on a tablesaw to 'get it started'.
You will need a jig to hold the lot together and bear in mind that the blade is 3.2mm wide, deduct this from your 50mm and allow for a bit of planing and I think you will find that your 25mm boards may be closer to 20mm.
I would stick with the bandsaw and even try to follow a line marked down the centre freehand, with a wedge as suggested.
The joy of a bandsaw is that kickback is never going to be an issue.

[John Saxton]

Andrew your idea of using your bench saw is of course feasible and one that has ben suggested before but in doing so any risk would be reduced if you kept each pass to a minimal cut before raising the blade again.
I dont know what saw bench you have but with pine the stress will be less than hardwood and if the blade is keen then an 20mm pass before flipping the board should be OK.
Of course a tall fence on the Bandsaw is the way to go but you need to be diligent on your feed rate and not try to hurry the cut forcing the blade to skew.
Being restricted by the depth of cut on your bandsaw and moreover if you do-not have riser blocks in place can be a worry, then the bench saw approach then looks attractive and an only alternative in your case.
Cheers:)